I need to replace the half shaft joints in my 89 soon. I assume these are the choice you guys go with?


http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p443_ ... 0_series_rebuild_kit.html


Joel

Spicer and maintenance free is exactly what I would do. Do yourself a huge favor and buy the strap kit / Series 1350 M8x1.0 part #3-70-48X

Should be able to pick them up for same or cheaper ( and save on shipping costs ) at your local truck or driveshaft shop.
1350 series is common driveshaft uni on most pickups
Spicer # 5-1350X or if old stock superseded part # 5-799X

Maybe... Spicer are hard to find on the local level.

check rockauto.com, also, the straps and bolts are a bitch to find at the local level....

you will also need an 8mm 6pt socket and long box wrench.

I have a thread on how to avoid pitfalls doing these things, I will find it later today.

Thanks guys.
Actually there is a drive line shop near me, about a 15 min ride. Thanks to vetteoz for the memory joggle! I'll check with them, they built several drive shafts for me years ago.

Now, is the coating that's on some brands to avoid the alum to steel problem really an issue? Or could a thin film of anti-seize be OK?

Joel

the coating isn't that big a deal... there is enough grease there to keep anything from going icky.

I would replace the grease that comes with using a quality, high temp and pressure grease, like Mobil 1 or Amsoil.

Be very careful not to over squeeze the spicer caps or you will crack the grease seals, they are plastic.

My original non-greasable ones were beginning to fail, apparently from the lube getting burned up, at 80K miles and 15 years. So basically for street driving that's about when your zerks will start paying off.

The coating shouldn't effect the joint function, but could make it a bitch to remove them later. I expect the steel caps would rust into the aluminum piece.

Wouldn't hurt to paint them prior to install and do antisieze.

Joel - this is the thread... more of a reminder than anything else.

http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/modu ... at&order=ASC&type=&mode=0

Quote:

Thanks, I remember that one.

thought you might, but it has a ton of great info it. Some you put there yourself!

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I don't mean to beat a dead horse here, but the confusion continues.
Called the drive line shop I've used in the past and they don't stock Spicer. Actually stated they were having some problems with Spicer starting about 5 years ago. They deal with Neapco Brute Force instead.
The Neapco and the Spicer is about the same price, if that even means anything now.
But, as usuall I can take a simple project and "research" it to the point of craziness!

Joel

Neapco has a very good reputation and I would have no problem using them.

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I have run the Brute Force uni's without problems when I couldn't get Spicers

I have no problems with Precision from NAPA... about $20 per.

Summit has Moog and Moog Super Duty, don't know where they're made though.

Thanks for all the replies.
I'm leaning towards the Neapco after some more digging around.
They're advertised as "made in USA". But we all know that's a fairly loose claim lately!

Joel

Well, I decided to get off my lazy azz and gather up the parts to change u-joints and rear hubs. Just for info, the Neapco Brute Force u-joints are no longer made!

Joel

I have learned that Spicer is now part (has been since 2004) of Raybestos.

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IMO that is a good thing.

2-3yrs ago I busted 3 out of 4 Neapco Brute Force U-Joints in the halfshafts on my 92... The Brute Force U-Joints just broke the ends off. When they broke it bashed up an outer stub axle and trashed both halfshafts as well....

That was an expensive night and they were brand new. I only made 3 trips to the track and had driven them less than 1500 street miles.

[URL=http://s50.photobucket.com/user/rklessdriver/media/Corvette/DSC00027.jpg.html][/URL]

The 92 is a peice of cake compared to my 84 (Race Car) on U-Joints.

It's too long of a story to give the low down on what I have trashed with both of these cars thou... suffice to say that I have run them and broken them all. I prefer the solid non-greasable type from:

1) SPICER
2) MOOG

Glad to see you are getting yours back together.
Will

That was an expensive "Oh crap" moment I'm sure!

I'm actually starting to think there are no major differences in most of these aftermarket parts. As long as the price range is about the same, they are all off shore products with some being assembled here and some not.

Any way, I'm just going to get Moog 231 uncoated and be done with it!

Looking at Timken hubs, price is decent and easy to find.

Joel