I have another question for you guys. I did a coilover conversion on the front and rear of my 85 and have been having a hard time getting the toe and camber set to something reasonable so I can at least go around the block to see how things are working out. Every time I jack the rear up to try to adjust things it's continuous trial and error and then the rear has to settle out and things end up changing. If I jacked the car up, took off the coilovers and set blocks under the wheels at ride height as I supported the body on jack stands do you think this would work for setting the toe and camber?

Thanks Bill. It's getting pretty close to zero outside here in Pa. so it may be a week or two before I get out to my unheated garage to get the measurements for you Brian.

In the pro level cars, they've even found that there's binding in the coilover shock assembly. Hypercoil came up with hydraulic spring pars that eliminate this.

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In the pro level cars, they've even found that there's binding in the coilover shock assembly. Hypercoil came up with hydraulic spring pars that eliminate this.

I'll have rod ends on both ends of my shocks.
Gary @ Hardbarusa.com has come up with some new mounts.

Yea Brian, The rodends on top & bottom of the shocks is pretty universal. This is totally different. This was developed for the Formula Atlantic/Indy Car guys. They found that when a coilover spring compresses, it can actually tilt and bind up. They call the part a Hydraulic Load Centering Perch. They sit directly on the spring, between the spring and the adjusters. I know a few guys who run them, they claim that the sperin compression feels more linear. Hi Tech Expensive Chit
Kevin was talking about stuff binding up, I just threw this in because suspension binding is not a good thing.

The front sway bar end links on the early cars are also a huge binding point. Later years were a tiny bit better.

Bill, do the dual spring coilovers help with spring binding? This would help keep the springs from buckling and side loading the shock. (I never quite understood the benefit they give to the spring rate.) Or are you talking about elsewhere?

klkordzi, (what a name!) Parallel rods isn't necessarily the goal. Bump steer in back might help you a bit, or at least is worth considering before you try to realign everything.

Thanks. What is the benefit then of toe in or out for as vehicle that is primarily street driven?

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Yea Brian, The rodends on top & bottom of the shocks is pretty universal. This is totally different. This was developed for the Formula Atlantic/Indy Car guys. They found that when a coilover spring compresses, it can actually tilt and bind up. They call the part a Hydraulic Load Centering Perch. They sit directly on the spring, between the spring and the adjusters. I know a few guys who run them, they claim that the sperin compression feels more linear. Hi Tech Expensive Chit
Kevin was talking about stuff binding up, I just threw this in because suspension binding is not a good thing.

Interesting, very interesting.

I see how tilting the rear knuckle back would help, this pivots the toe link downward which has the same effect as raising the inboard toe link. So this'd require some adjustable dogbones, or some shim plates between the dogbone bracket and the chassis.

We are addressing both the upper front and lower rear debate.
The upper front mount distributes the load over a greater surface area so that the lilkelyhood of cracking is all but eliminated.
The lower rear is a different story. We have no idea what the OE stud is actually made of (alloy wise) but assuming it is a decent alloy steel piece, it is marginal for the loads encountered. Tom Urban measured the piece off of his '95 and I modeled it with COSMOS. The load in this model is 2200 lbs and that is just at the elastic limit (yleld). History indicates that it has not been a problem, as C4's have been running around with coil overs for years, and to do 2200 lbs, you basically have to have slam the one side of the car down at 1.5 g's. On the other hand, the other mounts, can take much more than this and argues for a new design for long term fatigue. Comments are welcome as well as sarcastic remarks!
Cheers,
Gary

if you go into coil bind before hitting the bump stops with the current setup, then you are an idiot for not modifying your car properly.