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   All Posts (jaa1992)


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Re: 1992-1993 LT1 Owners - MUST READ
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I sure am glad a couple years ago when I thought mine was dead I found a spare.

Now if we can just find a good rebuilder that will do it right!

Posted on: 2011/2/2 17:34
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Re: Best way to pull this motor
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I'll let you know when I help the mechanic put mine in.
Remember - my hood is off the car.

Posted on: 2011/1/28 13:09
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Re: Need Wiring help - LT1
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Posted on: 2011/1/28 2:00
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Re: Need Wiring help - LT1
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Quote:

pr0zac wrote:
Try tpiparts.net


Nope, they have only the new style connector

Posted on: 2011/1/28 1:39
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Re: Need Wiring help - LT1
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Quote:

pr0zac wrote:
You can get either the new style or old style harness on ebay.


eBay and I have a mutal agreement that we will never do business again

Posted on: 2011/1/28 1:21
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Need Wiring help - LT1
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I'm dropping a 383 into my 92 and we have a wiring issue.

The wiring from the opti to the harness going to the ECM is my latest issue. The 92 has a squareish connector with 4 wires in it.
The original wiring harness from the opti to this connector is long gone.
I had a Dynaspark opti on it that required splicing the old connector to the harness from the Dynaspark. Tried to get the opti harness from chevy - its discontinued. Only harness available was from a 95/96 which has a different connector and wire color scheme.

I don't have my 92 FSM - its at the shop with the car so I don't know which wires are which on the 92 ECM connector. I don't have an FSM for the 95 or 96 to determine what wires are which.

Has ANYONE looked at this and figured out which color wires from the later opti harness match up with the wire colors for the old opti harness?

Thanks in advance!

Posted on: 2011/1/27 23:56
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Re: Best way to pull this motor
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My mechanic pulled mine forward and out with the hood off.
Didn't look like he did anything with the C-beam or drive shaft.

383 goes in as soon as the freakin throwout bearing gets there - arrgghhh (its a long story)

Posted on: 2011/1/27 15:31
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Re: coolant leak
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Since I have a 92 and I experienced the SAME EXACT issue when my water pump went.
Water was comming out the weep hole in the water pump.

Time for a new water pump and opti. If the opti isn't dead yet you can limp through another week or so while you get the parts and supplies. Figure a little less than $1000 for the parts (water pump, vented opti, thread sealer for the water pump bolts, coolant, distilled water, replace any original hoses - my gosh they are 18 years old) and a good long weekend. The balancer will be the hardest part to remove if its never been off.

Posted on: 2011/1/25 14:58
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Re: Nice C4 racecar
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
Quote:

jaa1992 wrote:
Anyone know if R6's are useable after 10 time trial events??? Are they still better than street compounds?


10 is what? 40 heat cycles? Makes me kinda shudder.


Yea, maybe 45. They were a little greasy by the 5th lap at Road Atl when the sun warmed things up in Dec.

Posted on: 2011/1/25 14:51
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Re: Nice C4 racecar
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Still time trials - class will be determined by the first event in 3 weeks (I hope)

Not enough money left to gut and cage this winter.
Shoot - just remembered I need to get new tires, crap it will have to wait until March.

Anyone know if R6's are useable after 10 time trial events??? Are they still better than street compounds?

Posted on: 2011/1/22 3:08
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Re: Nice C4 racecar
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Quote:

SpectatorRacing wrote:
Quote:
Now you tell me.
I'll get pictures up this season of my "garage queen"

Well it does sit in the garage between events


When you say events, you mean car shows and cruises, right?


I guess you could call a paddock full of race and street cars a car show.
I will say Road Atlanta and VIR are the best for cruises close to me. CMP, Charlotte, Roebling, NCCAR and Summit Point are pretty good. I'm going to try and get to the park known as Barber sometime this year. If the stars align I might get to NASA Nationals this year, two projects at work are conspiring to suck some of my weekends

See you at the track!

Posted on: 2011/1/21 3:48
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Re: Any shock recommendations for an '87 convertible with Z52 suspension?
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Are the koni adjustables adjusted at the top or bottom of the shock?
If at the top how do you adjust the rear shocks?

Posted on: 2011/1/20 15:37
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Re: Nice C4 racecar
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Quote:

SpectatorRacing wrote:
Everybody knows you can't race a C4.


Now you tell me.
I'll get pictures up this season of my "garage queen"

Well it does sit in the garage between events

Posted on: 2011/1/20 15:19
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Re: wanted: lt1 heads for cheap
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I'll have to look at the heads I have in the shed.
What are you looking to pay with shipping?
You will want to clean them up and maybe put new seals and springs. IIRC the machine shop charged me a little over $200 to clean a set of heads, change the seals and put on new springs that I provided.

I know I have two sets in there, but one set I'm going to use on my engine build. I'll have to dig them out and take pictures of the extra set. IIRC they are 100K mile stock heads

Posted on: 2010/10/7 23:00
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Re: ZF6 help
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Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
You can have mine for free. Actually I'll pay you $20 to remove it.


If you were closer I'd be there Sat to pick it up!

Its unreal what some folks want for these trans when they are ready for a rebuild

Posted on: 2010/9/11 1:38
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Re: 93 LT1 intermittent miss
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Did you replace the cable from the opti to the connector on the passenger intake?

Is the miss only at idle?

Posted on: 2010/9/11 1:25
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Re: Ybody vs Fbody PCM
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Well craptastic, I was hoping this would be a solution for those of us with unobtanium ECM's

I have a 92 where the ECM is very close to impossible to find. You have to ship it out for repair.

Posted on: 2010/7/26 23:50
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Re: Why no LT-x crate motors?
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Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
Shouldn't, but I decided to keep my store my stock engine and find another block to build. I got a 2 bolt block, that I had splayed caps put on.


Thats why I have a camaro LT1 short block in the shed.
Its going to be this winters big project.

Posted on: 2010/7/24 2:02
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Re: How do you remove the old bushings on rear dogbones?
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When I did my dog bones I was able to press the old sleeves out first. Then I took a wallboard saw and cut a chunk out of the bushings and it came out fairly easy.

Posted on: 2010/7/21 1:59
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Re: Street tires?
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I have a different opinion of the Summitos, I have 275/17 on all 4 corners.

I was instructing at CMP and driving 7/10 I still managed a 2:07!

I like them a lot and I have about 18 months on mine. Probably will get the rest of this year out of them.

Now if I could drive my R6's like track tires instead of street tires I might actually start turning respectable times

Posted on: 2010/6/16 1:28
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Re: Liquid Teflon
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I use the permatex.
Tried the ARP one time and it didn't seal very well.
I haven't had a problem with the permatex

Posted on: 2010/5/31 2:16
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Re: Oil light is on???
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My 92 did this a couple of times one week. Kept checking the dipstick.

After the oil change no light - its strange.

Posted on: 2010/5/28 18:39
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Re: Joined the snapped shock bolt club today
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Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
I'm thinking of drilling it out with progressively larger bits, then taking a cold chisel to it

thoughts??


Had the same problem - by the time I got to a drill bit that was 3/4 the diameter of the bolt the remainder came out without having to use a chisel.
Took a tap to clean the threads.

Posted on: 2010/5/11 23:54
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Re: Is this LT1 worth $400 obo ???
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I'm picking up a "in good shape" lt1 shortblock next weekend for $350.

Been searching for over a year for a good one.

Posted on: 2010/4/8 2:04
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Re: PSA - CHANGE YOUR BRAKE FLUID!!
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I have a vaccum system from Harbor Freight, hooks up to an air compressor.

I use it instead of the turkey baster to remove the fluid from the master. Then I go to the rear and have it suck fluid until its clear (remember to fill the resevoir often.
Once both rear come clean i have my helper pump up the pedal abd crack the bleeder, when the pedal hits the floor close the bleeder. Repeat until no bubbles. When I do the fronts its blled until its clear and no bubbles (shorter lines so I don't need to pull as much old fluid)

My next purchase is going to be the Motive power bleeder to make it more of a one person job.

Posted on: 2010/4/8 1:57
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Re: PSA - CHANGE YOUR BRAKE FLUID!!
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
Brake fluid is the most ignored maintainence on our highways.

At least Vette owners actually think about this stuff (along with the other performance car guys).

The rest of the cars on the highway are running molasses


Its a pet peve of mine because there is no change interval in the owners manual!!!

And no the wife isn't secretely street racing because the rear tires are where you would expect them after 20k miles!
I wish I could get her out on the road course!

Posted on: 2010/4/6 1:32
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PSA - CHANGE YOUR BRAKE FLUID!!
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Change your brake fluid ever couple of years.

This is the fluid from my wifes daily driver after 3 years.
Her DD is a plain jane 2004 Corvette Auto

Picture isn't working Click Bad Brake Fluid

Matatk edit:


Posted on: 2010/4/4 1:54
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Re: Rear hub removal - limited working space
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Well expletive deleted.
Both hubs are changed, on the driver side I pulled the shock and broke a bolt (rat farts)

Oh well, its always something. I'll drill it out tomorrow.

The hub that went bad the rear seal blew out. Had to clean the mess up.

Posted on: 2010/3/20 23:25
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Re: Rear hub removal - limited working space
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Thanks for the updated info. I seem to remember having to do something with extensions to get them back in whith the stub axle and half-shaft on.

The car is on jack stands, wheels off and the axle nut off.
It should be warm here in a little while and I'll be on it.

Posted on: 2010/3/20 13:22
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Re: SES & H32
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Unplug the egr selenoid from the egr.
Apply vaccum to the egr valve.
Does it hold? does the arm move?
If no - replace the egr valve.
If yes then keep looking for a vaccum leak in the circuit.
I have one near the AIR stuff below the ASR. I'll get around to getting a longer vaccum hose to fix it.

The rest of your issues may be resolved by cleaning and reattaching the grounds.

Posted on: 2010/3/19 19:05
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Re: Rear hub removal - limited working space
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Quote:

mseven wrote:
could you list what bearings you used that are "fantastic" enough to only live a matter of hours. thanks


I bought these as part of the second round of the "rear tapered bearing" GP. Don't recall when It was but I did not install them until January 2009. The car did not run from April to August. SO yes I only got a small number of events on them.

Don't know if the OEM will be any better, they are less expensive though. Sometime in May I'll buy another pair to have on the shelf so I don't have to pay an expedite fee to get them.

Posted on: 2010/3/19 18:59
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Re: Rear Hub removal - came out in 2 pieces
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Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
What does this have to do with the tapered bearing GP?

Aren't the Corvette Recycling hubs just oem NDH units?


I bought mine with the tapered bearing GP and put them on just over a year ago. They did not last wery long compared to the OEM bearings. I'm going back to OEM. If you bought bearings from the GP check them often, especially if you do track days.

To the poster that asked about noises etc.:
When my OEM went bad there was no grinding or extra noises from the rear. Just a wiggle when the wheel was jacked up and checked at 12 & 6.
My tapered bearing grinds like a mofo when making a right turn (puts load on that side) and has a good wiggle when checked at 12&6

Posted on: 2010/3/19 13:39
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Re: Rear Hub removal - came out in 2 pieces
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I ordered mine from Corvette Recycling on Tuesday and they arrived today, cost a little more for "rush" shipping. I need my car on Monday. I'm planning to get them done over the weekend.

When I changed my rear hubs a little over a year ago my passenger rear hub came off in two pieces when I removed the axle bolt.

Posted on: 2010/3/19 0:01
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Re: Rear hub removal - limited working space
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Quote:

95vette wrote:
I did mine on a flat floor. Took the camber arm off at one end, disconnected the tie rod, took the bolt out of the spring and let it rest on the exhaust pipe. I took the outer end of the half shaft off and then the hub. Don't foget the teflon washers. Too many track days Jim???


Yep, too many track days on these "fantastic tapered roller bearings" I think the total was 4 days of 4 20 min sessions and 6 days of 4 4-5 lap sessions. Was loose on Sat at Road Atl, tightened things up, got 3 sessions in and drove it home. The teflon washers are just over a year old. Hope they are useable cause I can't get replacements until Tuesday.

Posted on: 2010/3/18 23:56
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Rear hub removal - limited working space
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Last time I did my rear hubs I had the use of a lift.
I don't have that luxury this time.

Looking for ideas on how to get the car high enough to swap them out. I think I could do it in a day with a lift for both. I'm just concerned that I won't be able to get it done in a day and a half without a lift.

Example, on the lift I had the spring and half-shafts out.
DO I really need to do that or an I going to be able to work in there without taking those pieces off.

Thanks in advance!

Posted on: 2010/3/18 19:49
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Re: Rear Hub removal - came out in 2 pieces
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Yep, hub is junk now.

I bought a pair of the NOS bearings from Corvette Recycling and they expedited my oder so I can change them out this weekend.

I was driving to work Tuesday and the driver side growled real bad on the way to work. I know when I unbolt it I will have 2 pieces

If any one else has the tapered bearing hubs they bought as part of the group purchase a couple years ago - check your hubs often.

Posted on: 2010/3/18 19:44
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Re: Favorite Brake Pads, Rotors and Fluid for AX and HPDE and why?
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Brake Pads:
Carbotech, I'm currently running xp12/xp8 for time trials.

I've tried EBC yellows. Thank goodness they were free cause I would have been pissed if I had to pay for them. Long lasting pad, tore rotors up, when cold stopped a little better than street pads, when hot they stopped like the Carbotech AX pads.

Brake Rotors:
I try to find made in USA (unobtanium), made in Canada (approaching unobtanium), or China inexpensive rotors. I lucked out and got two sets of front rotors 4 years ago before Rockauto stopped carrying the raybestos red label.

Fluid:
ATE (bule or gold)
Valvoline Synpower is my current fluid. Its like $9 a quart compared to the ATE at $12 - $20 a can. It can be found at most auto parts stores. I bleed / flush often enough that it doesn't matter. When I get some air on the fronts I won't have to bleed as often.

Posted on: 2010/2/3 22:05
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Re: Check out these emissions numbers
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Andy - great numbers.
Got mine back together with headers and everything back together. Its time to start working on my tune.

You going to wosch's Sat?

Posted on: 2010/1/26 2:49
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Re: Brake Booster woes
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It took a 16 year old flexible step-son to get the rod back on the pedal. If I EVER have to replace the booster again I'll be taking it to the shop.

It was a royal PITA to get the nuts back on.

Good luck. Right now I'm trying to figure out if I want to tackle the clutch master and slave or take it to the shop.

Posted on: 2010/1/26 2:44
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Re: NFL Football ... I pledge allegiance to
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Washington Redskins!

And whomever is playing Dallas

Posted on: 2009/9/5 0:41
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Re: how crucial is the front spoiler on a c4 other than esthetics?
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When mine was missing the passenger side portion, it would get light and squirley at 95+ (back straight Road Atl).

When I replaced it all she sticks real well at 110+ (I was loafing on the back straight at VIR)

Posted on: 2009/9/3 18:02
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Re: Need help with a 92
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spare fuses, diagnostic plugs, gordon's book in the rear storage. Car washed and waxed, looks great.

Going to hit the emissions place and tag office in the am.

Thanks for all your help!

Posted on: 2009/8/17 2:07
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Re: Need help with a 92
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One thing I'm certain of the bump blew the fuse.
I think with 17+ years of age it probably was weakened enough to go. It was a pretty severe bump.

I'll keep an eye on it.

Its off to VIR in 10 days, I can't wait!

Posted on: 2009/8/17 1:47
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Re: Need help with a 92
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I'm so bummed I didn't figure it out months ago.

Darn thing started having no power after going over some railroad tracks at the beginning of May, two weeks before I went to Barber Motorsports park. I've been driving my v6 mustang all over the south east race tracks because I didn't have time to diagnose and fix this.
Found the wall at turn 12 at Road Atl in the Mustang and I have an event at VIR in 10 days. Had to get the Corvette working. I'm releived its a fuse, but bummed I had to drive a mustang on the track.

Posted on: 2009/8/16 2:54
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Re: Need help with a 92
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Thanks to 95 vette we found the fuse I forgot to check.
The 20a inj1 fuse was blown. All fixed now, thanks everyone!

Posted on: 2009/8/15 20:02
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Re: Need help with a 92
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Found the problem and all fixed. 95 vette

Posted on: 2009/8/15 19:33
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Re: Need help with a 92
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Andy,check 8A-21-6 in your FSM. If I am reading it correctly the left bank injectors are powered by a pink/bhlack wire directly from the fuse panel, not thru the ECM. What do you think? 95vette

Posted on: 2009/8/15 19:27
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Re: Need help with a 92
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we're looking in the manual as well. been looking for an hour :-(

Posted on: 2009/8/15 18:50
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Re: Need help with a 92
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Any idea what the issue could be?
I'm not getting any voltage on that side.

Passenger side with key on I have 12v at the injector connector. Drive side is 0.

Any idea which pin on the ecm has the wires for the driver side bank???

Posted on: 2009/8/15 18:34
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Re: Need help with a 92
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Swapped the fuses still same problem. Driver side injectors not firing. Verified with a noid light.
Passenger bank is fine.
Swapped in a known good ECM as well.

Trying to troubleshoot the no injector pulse on driver side

Posted on: 2009/8/15 18:12
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