denz93 wrote:
it went on easy but hell it won't hurt to double check it just another hour of labor and a 12pack

denz93 wrote:
the car runs good when cold

A kidney belt is no longer required.
Rough roads not only don't bother it, but the car has grip on them to boot.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

denz93 wrote:
come on guys i have been wrenching on cars for years and i have learned the hard way along time ago not to force things.but this ignition is a new demon for me so i am learning while i am suffering. I honestly think the opti i have is just shi!!!!!!

Jeff, we weren't talking about you.

BillH wrote:

Bet they draw it up tight with the bolts.

denz93 wrote:
I washed this thing over a month ago and its been sitting in the barn in 95 degree temps so i don't think any thing is wet.here is what is confusing to me. when i put the first new opti in i didn't have these symtoms i just had the 36 code and the fans were staying on and it ran just a little rough.So i am leaning towards a junk opti but with no codes it has me out on a limb would an ignition module do this if gets heat soaked?

92 & 93 use a spline drine on the opti that has one spline larger than the others, so, 180 out isn't possible,

the car runs good when cold the hotter it gets the worse it gets.

When i say it sounds like a diesel i mean it spark knocks so bad that is what it sounds like. It does idle fine when its hot and it starts fine hot. ... I had to very slowly press the gas pedal to get going from a stop.

My questions are is the opti I bought garbage its a richport technology opti from local parts store.

BillH wrote:
Steve, that's a ground connection. There should be a ring terminal on a single wire that comes out of the harness that has the IAC connector in it (at least on a 92). The bolt also has a star washer on it.

bogus wrote:
bracket for ICM?

BCinKC wrote:
Took a little mirror out and figured it out.  So there is a plug in the passenger side head as well.  The bad news is someone has eaten out the inside of the plug to where it is round.  This is going to be a blast to get out considering where it is at.  Thanks to all those that chimed in for the assistance. 

Here are the other two connectors.  I know that one goes to the O2 sensor but not sure about the other.

RobertT wrote:
I am conteplating buying a 90 vette . the car has been sitting for 5 months . The owner says the car doesn't start due to clogged injectors , and A the AC needs a new relay
the rest of the car looks like it is in decent shape and not abused . the owner wants $ 3,500.00. the problems he has mentioned seem like common problems whith these cars.
but I would like some input from people that know these cars , This would be my first vette . I know the owner through work and don't think he would lie to me about the situation with the car , Thank you all.

Matatk wrote:
So what was the final method?

Weavsvet wrote:
No idea where I'd get one of those heat sinks. Especially this week.

Aboatguy wrote:
Did you get the brackets removed????

Fluff wrote:
Can anyone tell me about the standard US spec for the rear lights on a 93 C4. Does each of the 4 red lights have a combination of rear/stop/turn bulbs as standard?

Aquavet wrote:
I forget if I asked you guys....I found a computer for a 94/95 LT1,(caprice so says the seller) will this at least get my new build running? Can it be sent to pcm for less for the proper programming later? its only $45

Alan

If you have a standard 16psi cap and you pump 19 psi your going to loose psi when cap opens to relieve pressure into the overflow tank.

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

BillH wrote:



Or. http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/lt1_lt4.html

383 short block w/3 year warrenty - $2,999

That's cheaper than I thought. Not a bad route.

Matthew

SpectatorRacing wrote:
Don't use brake clean on them after painting!!

It'll take the brake dust, and the PAINT right off.

tpi421vett wrote:
I comes down to the basic... you get what you pay for!

Some of the Key ingredients in cast iron to make it strong are Nickel,Molybdenum, Copper

The Little-M nickel content is 0.149, Molybdenum 0.211, Copper 0.404

Dart SHP Nickel content is 0.071, Molybdenum .016, copper 0.283

Chinese block Nickel content is 0.005, Molybdenum 0.005, Copper 0.020

Leo did the Brinell test by using the Rockwell B Scale and converting it to Brinell scale and he will back this test.

Little-M tested 200

SHP 190

Chinese block 107

I am sure the chinese blocks will vary from block to block and now I see why when I had to line hone the chinese block it kept loading the stones up as it was extremely soft.

We have one in shop right now and have looked it over and checked it for brinnel test and it seems to be a very soft block as it tested in the low 140's

To give you an idea a 010 block is around 180ish and SHP block tested mid 190's and the Little-M and Big-M are mid 230's because of the nickel content.

It lools like the block is finished honed and I have not probed it out for locations for deck heights, cylinder bore loctaions, lifter bore locations ETC.

Looks like once the cylinders were honed they decked the blocka nd left a burr at the top of the cylinder as there is a zero chamfer on the tops of the cylinders.

The lifter bores have a huge ridge at the top and on the bottom of the bores I would assume from machining the soft cast iron.

With that soft of bore it would wear the cylinders out in a short time as well as the lifter bores.

The rear main cap is not even flat where the pump sets on and they have welded what it looks like a insert where the threads are.

I will post pics later on and what we find for demensions in another thead.

For right now it does not look like a very high end peice and is surely a copy cat of the Dart Little-M block

I beleive PBM is selling them with their name on them!!

When we were messing around with it today, it was chugging, without the chip.

Durango_Boy wrote:
You'll need a can of can PPG Silicone Remover a can PPG Wax & Grease Remover. Should do the trick.

biggrizzly wrote:
I just had my gears and torque converter installed. Can I drive it home safely without editing the tune?

vis_croceus wrote:
Anybody got back-to-back driving experience with the 96 coupe/94-95 FX3 springs vs. the common 92-96 base springs?

Is the ride noticeably better?