damn.... that install is a totally amateur job. I have seen better work done by drunks.

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We have had this debate, and I think we simply have to agree to disagree.

Anytime real power is applied to those things, they blow. The worse part is that for every good builder here in the states, there are 10 that suck wind. Again, it's being closer to the source and hearing more...

Too many folks have nuked them, and it just doens't make me feel warm and fuzzy.

I would personally go with the C-6. They are very nice and it all depends on what you really want to do with it. Would it be a daily driver? A weekend car? Or strictly track? All questions that you would have to review to find the best medium of what you want.

I love optima batterys. They are the best IMO.

For that price I would imagine that there would be a better upgrade option.

Did the shop install that amp? IF so they just keep getting worse in my mind. All it would have taken to hide those wires better is some wire loom. They then would only have 1 run then.

I figured that it did not work. I said the same thing case but some believed it to be true.

If you look to the left where the speaker is coming out. Look a little above it and towards the seat, you will see how the carpet changes color. It's because the carpet is poking out and not resting against the panel like it used to. Yes, the wiring from the back of the amp is thsi visable in person and it goes behind the carpet directly behind it and then it's nowhere to be seen. I want to be able to hide that wiring though but not sure on how to fix it with that design and it will be yanked out if I try to tug on it and the box is as far back as I can get it.

I have BFG G-force TA's KDWS on my 93 and like them, the price was good but bought them as part of a wheel package so it is hard to compare.
Try Sam's Club for tires, the prices are great, they will have to special order but can get nearly any tire I ever needed in less than 2 weeks. If you are NOT a member their prices are so good it will pay you to join, no BS.
I recently replaced the Michelins on Karen's Pacifica, they had to be ordered as mentioned but Sam's price beat the next lowest estimate by over $200 for the set of 4.
Probably a good idea to get them mounted and balanced elsewhere at least based on my local club.

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Sounds like a decent deal to me mate, would be almost like having a new car again!!

The first gen LT1 engines are 92-93, 94 was an improved engine, 95 had a couple very minor upgrades too.

Bogus, you simply must stop allowing your opinion to cloud the facts on the 4L60 trans mate, its really a very good transmission and i believe youre being very unfairly harsh on it.

I just realized this week that I haven't bought the same set of tires twice since I bought my 92.

So over the last 7 years, I have created the perfect tire test!

The tires:

Set 1: BF Goodrich Comp T/A ZR - These were great, lasted 35k miles. About $600 a set. DISCONTINUED.

Set 2: Kumho Escta 712 - A good all around tire, not a great handler, but good all season, surprisingly. 30k miles. About $450 a set. DISCONTINUED.

Set 3: Kumho Escta MX - These were sticky! Handled GREAT! And lasted quite a long while, all things being equal. 25K miles. About $500 a set. DISCONTINUED.

Set 4: Toyo T1R - These are the best kind of tires in the world - FREE! I won them from Speed Channel a couple of years ago. However, if I had bought them, they would have been the most expensive by far. As a set of tires, they are very good. Very quite and ride nice and handle very predictably. I do enjoy them and wouldn't mind them again, but I don't see them being twice as good as the MXs to justify the extra costs. About $1000 a set. The T1R series was being discontinued, but they hadn't made them in Corvette sizes for the new tire. I don't know the current status.

I will be due for new tires next year. I think the next set will be Goodyear F1, Michelin Pilots or one of the newer tires from BFG or Kumho. Either way, they will be a different tire than tested above. Mostly because the tires tested in the past are, well, no longer available... sad, really...

I called Chris @ Superior Chevy this week... I asked him about LT1 crate motors and such.

He did a quick inventory check... get this - GM has THREE NOS LT1s in a warehouse somewhere!

These are specifically 1st gen LT1s, for a Corvette, 1992-1994. These are NEW engines, not remans!

And he can get me one for a real deal... $4800!!!!!!!!!

Someone at GM is smoking crack...

ok, I see what you mean.

Rocker panels are the things you step over to get into the car. Why they are called that, I do not know.

The rear speakers are rear speakers. I can't think of any other term to describe them.

The 2 12s are a bit much, in my opinion.

A single 10" would do it in the smaller C4 compartment.

I will continue these thoughts later, as far as good design is concerned.

This is an important decision...

A few considerations:

A C6 is $50k. The base units are cheaper, but hard to find.

So keep in mind that insurance and, depending on where you live, taxes will go up. Here in California (and many other states) your annual tag renewal is based on the book value of the car. My renewal is about $80 a year, whereas a new C6 is several hundred $$.

The C6 is a vastly improved car, but it isn't without its problems. Both the C5 and C6 are having transmission and differental related failures. The more power added, the bigger the problems become. For cars out of warrantee, it can add up to a huge repair bill if you don't know the prior history.

As for the rest, I haven't driven a C6 yet, but I am betting it is nice. The C5 sure is.

At the same time, my C4 is paid for... and my insurance is only $450 every 6 months for full coverage! and it's not so complex that I can fix just about anything that goes wrong.

The current hot deal in Corvettes, in my opinion, is the 1992/E1993 Corvette, with an LT1 and a 6spd. The driveline (as long as it has the Black Tag ZF) is bullet proof (how many times do you hear of a Dana 44 blowing up?)... sure the car lacks some of the chassis improvements, but gee, those only show up on the race track, to be honest. The 94-96 6spds are still really good, but the blue tag ZF isn't as stout as the black tag. Don't even get me started on the 4L60 family of autos... yuck-o-matic.

The ride quality of the later C4 is very good and the handling quite nice.

As a purely personal thing, I prefer the look of the C4. I think the line is purer and less cluttered, plus, the shape is generally trimmer.

So in short, I would keep the 96... or upgrade it to an LT4.

Rockers are what? The wheel well area in the back? They came with speakers in this car. You must be thinking of a different year....How would you say to mount the two 12s and amp?

You really do have a town full of idiots.... My heart goes out to you.

First off, and most importantly, the C4 NEVER had an ignition shield. By the time the C4 came around, automotive electronics had improved to the point that interference wasn't a problem.

I do wonder... the coil, if anything, is what will generate the interference. If that isn't right, it could do this, but I doubt it. It would cause buzzing that is engine speed dependant, not cutting out.

Cutting out, to me, sounds like a bad wiring job.

I solder everything, so that I don't ever have to worry about a bad connection - that soldering tech discussion will be coming out shortly. I plan on writing it today.

As for the speakers, that's what I was bitching about. They didn't want to properly remove the junk bose enclosures. $200 to build enclosures? Damn, dude, you need to learn how to do this, if nothing else, you can make a killing in your area being good at it.

How did they put speakers in the rockers? That's not something that came with the early C4.

I will have to check the Helm manual to be sure.

Strangely enough, 99% of the time, when a power window fails on a late modle C4, it's the damned motor... try slamming the door. If the window starts working again, you have found the problem. The brushes get stuck up in the motor and that's about that. The slamming trick can free them up.

There is no servicing those parts, which sucks... at least none I am aware of.

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Thanks! I will call him on Monday.

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I spoke with Chris @ Superior Chevy this week... he echoed my concerns with the salvage vendors not selling the flywheel with the motor. As far as I am concerned, Vette2Vette is the only vendor I will deal with. He has talked to Gordon on this and got simular information.

Can you forward me that info??? I would love to read it!

I just now remembered. This is the Corvette Salvage Yard

(336) 629-3811

Name: Hunt Auto Parts.

Havent been but have ordered a few items from them. They were out of digidashes and bumpers last time I called so it is whatever he has I suppose.....

I have a 96 LT-1, I enjoy working and driving it. I bought it as a hobby car, nevermind I always wanted one since I was 15. I'm debating the purchaes of a C-6, now I can't afford both, what would you do? Build the 96 or get a newer C-6???

I had the RH door panel off, ck'ed the motor and switch. Moving on to the LH side today. Are the relays behind the battery?

Gee, I appreciate the kind words on the system. I got it fixed though.

Had the system installed back in March of this year. It consisted of two 6 1/2 inch speakers in the doors, 2 speakers in the wheel wells( 4x9s I believe) and then a box with two twelves with the amp attached. Wiring is poking thru the carpet. They told me that the 6 1/2s would not fit so they "returned them" and put in 4 inches. The bill said 6 1/2s though so yea.....Worked for a few days and would start acting up.

At first, it seemed it would have been the alternator because it generates the juice and if it was going bad, then that could make the radio skip/cut out, similar to a scratched up CD. Wasn't it because we put in a new ACDELCO one in and still had the problem. Took it back to them and they said it was my Digidash causing the problems....True the digitaldash was messing up but that I don't think it would interfere with the radio frequencies. We took it to a electrical shop independantly owned. Basically it was a shack behind some guys house who did this on the side as a hobby. He had it for about two weeks and said he switched out alternators and it was still the same issue. Interesting enough, he put tinfoil around the distributor and stuffed it inside the cockpit area behind the CD player and it worked fine for awhile. Why, I have no idea but he said they should have come with a shield and the shop removed it for some reason.

Don't know the details on that but it was fixed temporairly. He did note that a permanent shield should be made. My dad took some sheets of tin and fixed it around the CD player. Again, fixed it temporairly but the skipping came back. We kept playing with the tin foil and it worked until I hit a bump and it would bounce again. The wires I had on them at the time were ACdelco's as well so I would not have thought against them. We did replace the distributor, dist. cap, rotor button, plugs as well.

Fast forward this to recently, still battling it, and me getting pissed and searching the internet and tinkering with it, still no success. I took it back to them and they said it was the ignition causing it. They claimed that the motor was "large" and gave off "interference". Don't the C2s or C3s have 427 big blocks? Mines a 350. Not big at all. We called our mechanic and he said to have them install a filter on it and change out the plug wires to some from NAPA. Ok. As of now, the radio is working. The filter was around 50 dollars plus a few more dollars for "miscellaneous".

Im going to add that there are no speaker covers and they want 200 dollars to fabricate some up. The originals were damaged so I did not keep them but I was stupid not doing that. The the filter was just put in and I have not been able to drive it for more than 30 minutes because it is going to a GOOD mechanic to get looked over. If the problem persist, I will post back.

The wiring is hard to describe but I am going to try to describe it. Where the rear shade, the carpet directly below it does not fit flush and flat like it did before and you can see the wires go down to it but they are hanging in the air to the amp because the amp is on top of the box. Wires are spliced on teh ends and then screws are holding them onto the amp. They then go down behind the carpet. They did NOT bolt down the box so I did that myself with some shoulders for shelves. The rest of the carpet is undisturbed and I doubt the seat has been removed because I would feel the wires underneath or notice it has been moved. The rear compartment has no wires in it either. Now wherever the wires are going, I can't find. They then pop out of the firewall right behind the battery and are wired down there. There is a metal clamp with holes in it that operates the subwoofers some how because it came loose and the woofers and the amp stopped working as well. I think that about covers it unless I have forgotten something which I will post if I remember.

Anyway, I am happy that it is working now. Just need the carpet to sit flat again. The carpet on the sides does not fit right either. .....I am trying to post the pic of my amp now. It will be up in a few minutes I hope.

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Yes I just did and posted in it.

I called Mr. Killibrew and talked with him about the flywheel and balancing the LT1. It was well worth the $45 for the call. I have a 92 Vette and was replacing the flywheel and clutch with OEM new products. He explained how the balancing procedure was done on the LT1. He mailed me a write up procedure on how they do it. It's trial and error, however, they have a few set positions (or patterns) of the weights that usually work if a vibration is present. It's labor intensive to try these placements as you have to insert the weights and run the engine looking for vibrations. If you still have vibrations, you remove the weights and try another pattern. So, if you're putting a dual mass on a previous auto tranny motor, you can achieve balance or at least remove the vibration.

Like Brut said lots of patience.

Most importantly DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BUMPER BOLTS. This will deform the bumper making it look rippled.

Don't ask me how I know....

If you hadve asked me Johnny, i couldve allready told you that mate. Wrong signal standard for a start.

Better off using capacitors to handle that power anyway, far more stable then using 2 batteries will be

The relays/switches mate. Then the wiring.

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Thanks mate I wasnt too sure which was which of the left and right head sensors.

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No not the ones sold in the US, some of the models made for export (to where im not sure) were built with leaded fuel capability. No idea how many were made, how youd find out the info, or anything else like that, but im not refering to the US sold models, only exports. I read that in a black book years ago, but ive read it somewhere else too.

First off my RH side window wouldn't go up 2 wks later my LH side won't do anything either? Anything in patricular I should look at first?

Quote:Give him hell, Casey.


Quote:No cars built to be used in the US have been able to use leaded gasoline since 1971.


Quote:Left head, temp gauge. Right head, fan switch. Front of the intake manifold, slightly right of center and pointing forward is the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor.

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There is info in the FSM that will guide you to testing the ECT sensor. Just because it is a Crossfire with throttle bodies, it DOES indeed have injectors that CAN leak. Try starting the engine with the throttle wide open. That puts the ECM into the "clear flood mode", where it will shut off the fuel while cranking. If you have leaky injectors, flooding the engine, this can help. Also, keep a fuel pressure gauge handy. Possibly the fuel pump relay is bad which will eliminate the 2 second priming period and increase the cranking time while the oil pressure builds.

RACE ON!!!

yo, black86 - have you seen the thread I started in audio???

Ever get the one that claims certain uses for a cell phone? Like this one, being able to unlock your car by someone pressing the unlock button on the other end of the phone. Let me tell you first hand, it dont work. That is all.

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Red top Optima battery now.

Find another shop. The big boys do it for more storage capacity. When you have 20 subs hitting at the same time you need a source to draw that much instant power. If you got 2-6 subs you don't need but 1 battery and most of the time you can get away with a stock one.

Well there ya go, we're laughin our bloody heads off eh??

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They are wrong mate.

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Interesting response there. Stereoshop said awhile back that it would give my power system a "boost". Said to put a 2nd battery in the back rear compartment behind the passenger seat. I looked at some pics and a few cars had 2 optimas in them. They had big speakers though.

I am not disagreeing with you, I am just shocked!

I checked that Fuel Injection book by Charlie Probst, and duh, there it is!

Quote:Whats wrong with that?

Quote:I totally agree! No real use for a second battery. What you would need is a bigger alturnator that could crank out more amps. That is where the power comes from.

Its only for the wankers that sit still in their cars with their music going full blast for hours at a time.

Negative mate, as i said, and have a think about it, why on earth would GM install 44,072 heated O2 sensors that are not used? They wouldnt. It would be the same as getting 44,072 perfectly good brand new heated O2 sensors and throwing them in the bin. No vehicle manufacturer is that stupid.

Ive got a 94, and i know for a fact the secondary O2 in the right bank is NOT a dummy. Whoever told you they are is the dummy, and wrong. It may have no influence on the engine managment, but that certainly doesnt mean it does nothing.

Just plan on wearing a long sleeve shirt because you will be reaching your hands way up in there through the license plate hole and tail light openings. You don't have to take the fenderwells all the way out either.

You will also be on your back a lot looking up. Get goggles and some good lighting. It's not all that hard, but it can be frustrating and time consuming. Be prepared, if you take it off, you can't drive it, and getting a new one to fit can also be a PITA, especially if its fiberglass.

why a 2nd battery? that is the biggest waste of resources I have ever seen in car audio.

utterly useless.

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If I had that budget, I would do all rewiring, run a second battery, cut out the back floor and set the amp in it with plexiglass over along with 2 12s coming out of the back with 6 1/2s in the doors and some speakers under the dash as well.

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I listen to pop/hiphop as well, so the bass is pretty good for that purpose. Mostly country. Very few rap songs though. To much cussnig and bad images "in my opinion". The bose was allright but how reliable it is I couldn't say.