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I agree. The home page looks fantastic!
I like having the polls, too.

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i just found out that my cat has been gutted...................... but i got the targas yesterday, and had them installed todaym and i love em, i will try and get pics this weekend

The changes look real good, keep it up and this will be a world class site. :D

Hello once again! We have passed our 1 year mark and have had some good success. 2006 will be the year that we push forward and evolve into being your technical source for all C4 vettes.

You may already have noticed some changes in the last few days. One thing I am working on is getting the technical library built. This is where all the past issues will be stored. Bogus and myself are working deligently to get this accomplished and getting new info to you.

If you have any suggestions, please let us know!

they are going on the L83......... put my order in on them last week, so hoping to have them by the end of the week

on the L98, they work pretty good, really... but on the LT1, I would stay clear.

I've had two sets on my car, they are loud but they sound pretty good, especially with a free flowing cat. Keep us posted on your progress.

To me it sounds like one of three things, Clogged fuel injectors, ECM, or the pump is not pumping even though it's getting juice. I know you don't want to spend unessesary money so check very carefully. GOOD LUCK

shes gonna pretty much stay stock, shes already a good lookin car, just needs to be freshened up, and lookin for something to cap off the exhaust since i'm too damn cheap to shell out $800 for a borla system

my buddy has them and they sound good ....

what is your plans for the car ?

if you add lt headers and off road pipes ..its going to be loud


my 2 cents

anyone else have them?

I have a friend who had what sounds like the exact same problem in his RS Camaro. He changed out the ECM with one he had gotten from Ebay and it did the same thing still. He ended up changing and replacing a gazillion different items trying to track the problem down. Make a long story short he had a mechanis tell him to put the old ECM back in and then it worked fine.

I will get a hold of him to see if ever found out what the actual problem was.

Ahh. I stand corrected. Sorry

the fuel spec is 9-13 lbs

I'm not familiar with the cross-fire, but 15 lbs of pressure seems low to me.

I have 1984 Vette and after sitting at home not running for about 4 weeks it did not want to run. Had to crank it many times to get it going and the next time it decided to be nice and break down at home. (to me if you take care of your cars they will break down in front of your house and not 300 miles away)

symptoms- the car starts, runs for 5 seconds and then dies.

Checked the following:

-codes- no codes dispalyed
-fuel pump relay- Ok
-fuel injectors -ok (they function with the connection and when you take out the connectors they do not squirt fuel)
-fuel pump pressure- ok 15 lbs (measured before the fuel filter)
-fuel filter checked and changed it while at it (still same symptoms after the change of filter)
-fuel pump runs ok (2 sec w/ignition On and also providing constant 12v via terminal still OK)

I have used the diagnostic manual charts for the 84 vette and its good but it ledme once down a wrong path (relay) so I am asking for some help. Now it tells me its the ECM but I dont want to spend $90 and find out that it not it .
I hate to take it to the shop and have them charge me $300 to tell me its somethingthat I have overlooked.
It would eat me alive as I would rather fix it myself and learn the lessons for next time.

thanks \

Your right, those are not the same ones...but close. Mine have the round outlets and not the square.

thoes don't sound like the same ones i'm looking at, the ones from MA look from the images that they are black in the tips, and have stainless tips



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from mid america............BTW part number is: 603-414 black, 603-412 stainless

I have the standard ones...they have the chrome tips and the red insides.

I will say this...they sound really good. However my reservations are that they rust pretty easily. Mine started rusted within the chrome after about a year.

Second, I don't like the look of the from the rear. The red will be gone in no time and the baffel makes it look smaller than what they are. I have the 3" tips but with the baffle, it looks to be an inch and a half outlet. I wouldn't buy them again for that sole purpose. I thought about gutting them so they would be more like "eliminators", but I think it would be too much trouble.

If you do get them, go with the stainless steel ones....

i'm gettin ready to put in an order for the targa mufflers from mid america, and i was wondering before i order, just wanted to get peoples opions on them, and if they are worth it?

I agree. check the battery first.

And welcome!!!!

1 - the super ram will wake the motor up. big time.

2. LT headers rock. Add some bullet cats, an x-pipe and duals.

3. heads? this is a loaded debate. Edelbrocks are nice... very nice... AFR will make more power, but have had questionable QC of late. Dart is nice...

4. cam... I would check Crane and Comp... see what they recommend for street usage. Also, don't get a cheapy, the more you spend, the better the quality.

5. Griffin and Becool are good units.

6. can't help you on torque converters.

7. the current transmission is a bomb waiting to go off. 700R4s are junk.

8. 3.07 gears will fit, hell, you can go to 3.73 in a D36, but I would save up for 3.45 gears - in a dana 44. The D36 is just not that strong, and I would save any money on new gears and put it toward the D44.

9. bigger wheels and brakes are good.

The rest of the questions:

Superram will keep EGR. Air pump does nothing. If you can get rid, do so.

You will need a tune... 24# injectors and an AFPR will be good tuning tools.

The IAC and TPS will work on the new TB.

I would NOT go to Jesse for a tune. You need to find a good shop that will dyno tune it.

Where do you live? What are the emissions tests like?

I am still working on it... whew... lotsa work!!!

welcome aboard!

Answering in order:

The cooler is a great idea! It is mounted on the front of the k-frame behind the under car intake.

So is the filter! It must be mounted to the low presure side.

Question - is this a factory or aftermarket cooler? I would track down the GM parts for a factroy cooler. It works well, and I suspect new hoses would be nearly required at this time.

do you have the factory service manual? If not, PM me your address... I have it on CD. That should help you get the answer you need.

no one else has a clue?! :roll:

Ok so my cars away for the winter (84). While its parked I plan on replacing my rack and pinion with a reman. I'm going to upgrade to the Z51 rack. I have also bought a PS cooler. Can anyone tell me where this is located or post pictures. While I'm doing this work I was also going to add a filter. Is there an issue with adding the filter and cooler with the power steering pump I presently have?
any input is appreciated

Thanks

Jeff one of the first things you want to do is get rid of the Haynes manual, they suck. Get the Helms shop manual.

thank you very much that helped a lot!

thanks,
Jeff

Thank you very much that helped me out a lot!

Thanks,
Jeff

I posted this in the "Chat" section too...


First off, welcome to C4guru!

I could be wrong here, but it sounds like your battery is bad and not your Starter. I would pull it out and have it tested. Or better yet, get it started and drive it to a place like Autozone and they should be able to do a quick test of it and the Alternator while it is still in the car.

If both of those turn out to be OK, and you want to pull the starter itself.....

It will be on the bottom of the passenger side of the block. It will be right where the engine and tranny meet. A novice could pull it out with a little patience...just remember to UNHOOK BATTERY FIRST!!! Those cable you pulloff will be live and if they touch metal....that could be bad!!

Good luck!

First off, welcome to C4guru!

I could be wrong here, but it sounds like your battery is bad and not your Starter. I would pull it out and have it tested. Or better yet, get it started and drive it to a place like Autozone and they should be able to do a quick test of it and the Alternator while it is still in the car.

If both of those turn out to be OK, and you want to pull the starter itself.....

It will be on the bottom of the passenger side of the block. It will be right where the engine and tranny meet. A novice could pull it out with a little patience...just remember to UNHOOK BATTERY FIRST!!! Those cable you pulloff will be live and if they touch metal....that could be bad!!

Good luck!

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I don't know cars all that well and I am slowly learning and getting better and problem solving them. I need help though. My '84 vette won't start anymore and I think it has to do with the starter or the solenoid. I tried to start it one day and it would not turn over and made that clicking sound. Then a week went by and I tried it again but the battery was completely drained. I charged it and it started(baffled) and moved it to my garage, but of course after that day it would not start again, then eventually the batt. was completely drained again. I am not sure what the problem is anymore but still think it might be the solenoid or the starter.

Anybody have any comments or solutions to this problem?

I can't find the stupid starter. I have a Hanes manual for '84 vettes through '96 all the C4's, but it does not illustrate very well of where the location is. Thats my biggest problem because I want to take it out and have it tested to make sure that is the problem.

thanks,
Jeff

I don't know cars all that well and I am slowly learning and getting better and problem solving them. I need help though. My '84 vette won't start anymore and I think it has to do with the starter or the solenoid. I tried to start it one day and it would not turn over and made that clicking sound. Then a week went by and I tried it again but the battery was completely drained. I charged it and it started(baffled) and moved it to my garage, but of course after that day it would not start again, then eventually the batt. was completely drained again. I am not sure what the problem is anymore but still think it might be the solenoid or the starter.

Anybody have any comments or solutions to this problem?

I can't find the stupid starter. I have a Hanes manual for '84 vettes through '96 all the C4's, but it does not illustrate very well of where the location is. Thats my biggest problem because I want to take it out and have it tested to make sure that is the problem.

thanks,
Jeff

I will answer my own question. Go to this link as it answers a lot of my questions:http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/superram.html

I gotta tell ya. I'm really looking forward to it!!

mine has the same rocker, but it doesn't matter if you have the high beams on, or low beams the fogs are on, but thats the only time the fogs are on is when the headlights are on

I have been slogging through posts on other forums about this product. Very confused.
First, here is what I have: 87 vert auto with standard rear end (2.59:1) and auto tranny. Stock brakes. 45,000 mile engine that starts and runs fine. No problems with the car. I have also installed a hard top for the cooler weather.
The car is paid for. I can either sell it and buy a C4 that has more power (LT4) or mod this one and keep it.
Goals are more power (hey that's a new one!). I want more power for bragging rights, street performance and 1 day at the drags just to see what she will do. I also want to be able to drive on long trips once a year or so. I also want folks to be impressed more when I open the clamshell.
Current mods that will stay with the car are high flow Magnaflow cat, rear H pipe and Magnaflow mufflers. I have new Taylor 8mm wires and a DUI coil. I also have a K&N air filter and a FUEL INJECTION emblem from a 57 Corvette bolted to my air cleaner housing (gotta be worth 5 HP!).
Proposed mods: Here is where I need someone with honesty and guts to step in and say "No way - this will not work and will cost you driveability and performance".
1. Accel Super Ram. 2. Long tube headers. Thinking TPIS here as it comes with a front Y that will bolt up to my converter. 3. Edelbrock aluminum heads that are made for the L98. Should I use fast burn? Cam: what is recommended? 4. New GM or aftermarket water pump. Recommendations?5. Aftermarket radiator. Reccomendations? 6: Aftermarket torque converter (on the mild side). Recommendations? 7. My current tranny is strong and I am only thinking of changing to synthetic fluid for now. 8: 3.07 rear gears and synthetic lube with 2 bottles of posi fluid. My question on this is will these gears fit in my D36? I plan to run the D36 as long as she will last. 9: A set of 17" wheels so I can upgrade to larger front brakes. I will not be autocrossing but just want to be safe with the extra power and all. I have also read pros and cons about going with stainless steel braided hoses. My street driving style seems to dictate new OEM rubber hoses. Any thoughts?
The big question is the Super Ram. I see prices in the $900 range and in the $3,300 range. It appears that the lower price is just for the plenum, runners, intake manifold and fasteners. I don't need the computer or fuel pump that comes with some kits. Here is what else I think I will need (please correct me if am wrong). Injectors: I am thinking about 24# units but what brand? Will my existing harness hook up to them? Throttle body: 52mm BBK. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator along with a guage so I can see what I have. Will my existing IAC work with this unit? What do I do with the other existing electronic sensors? Are they compatable with the Super Ram? I want to run "graen" and keep my AIR system, EGR system and Cat converter. Will I be able to do this with the Super Ram. What do I do with my cold start injector? Is there a place for it on the Super Ram?
Lastly I hear that it is a bitch to install the runners onto the manifold and to the plenum as there is no room to work. After reading some posts by others who have done this I think I can do it. I have the patience and the get r dun mentality to figure things out along with my own garage and plenty of tools. I can always buy more tools too if anything specialized is needed. I will also need a custom chip. Go to Jesse for this?
One concern is that I have never really messed around with the electronic fuel injection system. I have pulled and rebuilt/hopped up a previous carbed Corvette engine and it turned out strong and reliable. I am not afraid to dive in and start getting it done either. It is important to me to say that I did it on my own. I know my limitations also. I would never dare take apart a tranny and rebuild it!
OK Gurus. Do your stuff. Helping me learn and avoid mistakes will help many others down the road.
I am not out to run on the ragged edge so please don't suggest things like Nitrous, 4:10 gears or turbos.

My 87 has a rocker switch under the headlight knob. If you flip the rocker switch on then the fog lights come on with the parking lights or the low beams. When you turn on the bright headlights the driving lights go out.
I am not sure if your 84 has this option or not.

i have an 84, and i would like to know what it might take to have them come on with the parking lights????? my father had an 86(carbon copy of mine) and when you pull the lights out to turn on the parking lights, the fog lights came on, but when you do it to mine, they stay off till you turn on the headlights


thanks in advance

the hail storm damaged my clear top... but the insurance company bought me a new one.

audio is so very subjective....

however, a few thoughts...

The corvette interior is VERY small... so lots of speakers are not the solution. In my 1992 coupe, I have a pair of Canton RS3s (three way separates) a single 10" JL Audio 10W3V2 and a JL Audio 500/5 5 channel amp. That's it.

I know, those speakers were very expensive - 10 years ago! But they still sound GREAT! So alive!!!

Another option is a pair of nice 8" subs in the rear speaker enclosures.

You see, sound is more than just bass or vocals, it's about the entire range of sound. The highs are as important as the lows.

I will post some pics of my install later on... I am tired...

I have gotten the rough draft done... I need to add pics and make sure it is right!

I am doing a TPI and LT1 version.

howdy! Welcome aboard!

Anytime a fuse blows when a component is connected correctly tells me there is a bigger problem that needs to be debugged.

OBDI engines use the info from the transmission so it knows what gear the tranny is in.

1987... there is a minor issue with the early (pre 1990) C4s... and most every car made prior to then, too... it's the fact that the SAE changed the requirements for wire composition. more accurately, wire insulation. Prior to that, heat, chemicals and time will cause the insulation to crack, chafe and pull away from connections.

I would debug the electrics... this is only the beginning.

Also, as mentioned above, there is a connector that reads info from sensors inside the gearbox. I wonder if you have some bad sensors....

to be honest, you need a Helm Manual - www.helminc.com.

either way, it will wake up an L98... adding either intake, a set of 1.6:1 roller rockers and a bit of exhaust upgrades will get you a motor very close to an LT1/LT4.

you could try hitting up the salvage yards.

Ecklers used to sell a short shift kit... but I donno if that will help.

I would like to think that an aftermarket Super T-10 shifter could be adapted to fit.

I haven't found an aftermarket shifter. I have seen the shifter and rods listed on Ebay.

The shifter & all rods in my 85 with the 4+3 is shot.Looks like the prev owner had some hack saw & welding work done.

It's a mess with terrible neutral gate issues.The trans works fine,but the rods bind up really bad.

Does anyone make a shifter repair or replacement kit for this trans.

Thank
\db2

For most street driving the super ram would be good but if you plan on kicking azz on the LS1 in a C-5 you will need a lot of mods to your old L98.

I have not driven a naturally aspirated 350 with a miniram so have no first hand experience but on my supercharged 406 with a miniram I can hit the throttle at 900 rpm with the clutch fully engaged and break the 315 kd's loose. Personally I think the miniram is much better on the low end that what i keep reading on all the forums. A 350 with a large cam will be soft on the low end anyway so for street superram may be better but miniram will kick ass on the superram at the track

Well, once I figure out my blown fuse issue and now that it is officially the last day of hurricane season, I will be out enjoying the cool, low humidity of South Florida.