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[B]EDIT: Price has been lowered, $9500. I recently drove it 80 miles to the track, ran a best of 11.37 @ 122 MPH, on nitto drag radials, went to dinner, and drove home.[/B]

I need to sell my car.

The details are:

I bought the car in 2005 with 61,000 miles on it. I bought it from the second owner, and it was completely stock. It was a Florida car it's entire life, so the paint is slightly faded, but from 5 feet the car looks fantastic. The car now has 86,XXX miles on it.

The car is in Raleigh, NC. I would be willing to deliver the car within a reasonable distance.

The car, is daily driver friendly, traps 122+ MPH in the quarter, and runs low 11's. AC still works, and the car is easy to drive.

Right now, there is about $10,000 worth of mods done to the car. The motor, plus heads, cam, intake, and all the ancillaries was about $6500, the drive train mods are about $2500, and all the other small things add up to about 10K. I have receipts for almost everything.

The mods are:

383 stroker
-Only about 5500 miles on the new mill. I broke the stock motor about 2 years ago and had to re-finance the car to build the new engine. I also did a pretty extensive comparison of 2 cylinder heads that you can read about here - [url]http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7225&forum=1[/url]
-Eagle cast crank. 650-700 RWHP at a reasonable RPM (below 7K) and the crank will live forever.
-6 inch forged H beam rods
-SRP forged pistons with chromoly rings gapped a little wide for nitrous use
-AFR 195 competition port cylinder heads
-Cometic head gaskets
-Comp Cams hydraulic roller, 230/236 - mid 500's on lift, 113 LSA
-Probe 1.6 full roller rockers
-Miniram intake

Other stuff done to the car:

-Hooker long tubes
-Dr. Gas X pipe
-Magnaflow mufflers
-3.90 rear gears
-Centerforce dual friction clutch with single mass flywheel
-Custom made steel half shafts
-Cryo treated spice U-joints
-Cryo treated inner stub axles, differential case, posi unit, gears, and clutches
-In car wideband via PLX and autometer gauge
-B&M ripper shifter
-Walbro 255 LPH intank pump
-Mallory 685 ignition box
-Fabricated aluminum valve covers, powder coated black

The engine is set up to handle up to a 300 HP shot of nitrous. I was planning to use a staged set up with 125 HP in first gear, and another 125 HP in all other gears for a total of 250 HP. If you need help setting this up, I would be more than glad to show you how to do it.

The car made 414 RWHP / 396 RWTQ naturally aspirated. The new engine has never had nitrous through it, but on a 200 shot it should easily eclipse 600 RWHP and 600 RWTQ.

The AC compressor is the original one from 1991. While the AC still works great and blows cold, I have noticed some black dust around the AC compressor after I use the AC. This tells me that the compressor is probably on its way out and will need to be replaced. The car still has R12 in it, so the entire conversion would be necessary.

$9,500 is my asking price.

If you have any questions or would like pictures of anything specific, please feel free to email me, joshkinzey@gmail.com

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This is the car after some polish work with a Porter Cable orbital polisher. It shines up incredibly well, but I don't have the time to maintain the finish:

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Here's the new mill, before I put it in the car:

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Shots of the car:

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Again, $9,500. Please feel free to email with questions. I don't have a problem talking about it over the phone as there is a considerable amount of time and money into the car, I just don't want to post my phone number on the forum.

joshkinzey@gmail.com

That's like a big block C2. More big block C2's have been sold at Barrett Jackson than GM made, lol.

Didn't CFI-EFI go into the 13's with the stock set up?

What prevents you from cutting a hole in the intake and using an HEI?

Lol, thanks guys. Not trying to sucker anyone, just thought it was kinda cool.

I think I paid $200 a side for custom steel ones a year or so ago. That was balanced, assembled, 1350 yokes, and U-joints.

Sounds to me like you are right in the ball park.

Got my new tag last night:

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The car has gone a best of 11.37 @ 122 NA.

Strong numbers on a dyno dynamics dyno man.

What's the hang up on going roller?

I don't know that I'd mess with it if I were in your shoes. Best case scenario is a 50 HP gain, 15-20 is probably more the norm. With the power you are making, I doubt you'd feel 20 HP, and 50 probably wouldn't make a world of difference in how the car feels.

I posted on here about the new best time, but here it is again for anyone who missed it:

TFS heads = best ET of 11.98 @ 120
AFR heads = best ET of 11.37 @ 122 (the car has been a best of 123.5 MPH)

The 60 foot with the TFS heads was 1.85 or so, on bias ply ET streets.

With the AFR heads the 60 foot was 1.65 or so, on nittos drag radials.

The AFR heads made 415 RWHP, the TFS heads made 390 RWHP.

FIC had a large supply of the older injectors a year or so ago. When I talked to him on the phone he said, "I have an entire pallet of the older ones." He might still have some kicking around.

That, IMO, would be the way to go. New injectors of the older design.

I would let the tuner pick the injector, they are going to be the ones responsible for making it all work properly.

As mentioned, Mseven in our resident mail order tuner, I would contact him and see what he thinks. You didn't mention what year you have, so we don't know if you are OBD1 or OBD2, but either way I think mseven can steer you in the right direction.

From what it sounds like, the stock injectors would probably work, or maybe something slightly larger.

I've been searching all morning, and for the life of me I can't find the long thread I did a year or so ago where we compared the AFR 195's to the TFS heads. Anyone that can help a brotha out?

I didn't think it was too nice, my camera man had a pretty bad case of the shakes!

Here's a video:

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm ... .mp4&evt=user_media_share

And just for fun, here's my mom in my 00 GTP cutting a near perfect bulb. .506 on a .500 tree. This was my mom's second pass ever at a drag strip.

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm ... .mp4&evt=user_media_share

The rear suspension is pretty stock. It's got poly bushings everywhere and solid delrin bushings from the batwing to the body.

It is an FX3 car, but I have replaced the bilsteins with KYB shocks.

Thanks man. I explained the snubber extensions to Bill back in 2005 or so when Jeb Burnette turned me onto them.

It is tough to slow down the clutch release if you are used to dropping it.

I'm far from the gear rowing expert. Jonecap has been 1.51 in a pretty stock M6 C4 and is about to destroy Ranger's C5 Zo6 record, tpi421vette runs some ridiculous times in his M6 C4, etc...

I have a couple more tricks up my sleeve, I think there's another .2 and 2 MPH in the current combo with some more tweaks. I think it will eventually go 11.1XX, but I don't know about 10's without some spray.

I have my doubts as to whether or not it will ever come about. They have been working on a TPI intake alternative for a decade now, and they are always promising release next fall/spring/summer/year/etc...

The car seems to hook really well anymore, it's not nearly as sensitive to track conditions, tire pressure, burnout, etc... as it's been in the past. Most of my friends run the bias ply ET streets or ET drags, and those guys are having traction problems before I am, so I'm pretty pleased with the tire/car combo right now. Basically, if it ain't broke, I'm not gonna mess with it. 1.65 is about all I expected out of the tires, and I truthfully don't know if I want to push the rear harder than that, so I'm pretty happy with what the car is doing right now.

The one thing I don't like about the nitto is that if you don't hook it, it doesn't want to recover. When I ran ET streets, if it spun, you could just leave your foot in it and the tire would hook up in short order. Once the nittos are gone, they won't recover until you lift.

Jon, with your car, I would start with 25 PSI and a moderate burnout. I'd lower pressure and possibly increase burnout duration until it did what I wanted it to. Depending on how you are treating the clutch pedal, they may never work for you. I had to work on slowing down my clutch release alot in order to get them to work for me. As a matter of fact, I'm still working on it. I think that my car has potential for a mid 1.5 in it on these tires if I can work the clutch properly. Like I said though, after all I've been through with the rear end, I don't really know that I want it to go faster than mid 1.6's.

Thanks for the compliment Dan, the timeslip/beer bet is still on, right?

I have most of the nitrous stuff kicking around, but it's not on the car. I just moved back to NC from Baltimore, MD and all my car stuff is still in storage. Once I get settled into a house with a garage, the N20 is definitely first on the list.

Not here in NC. At other tracks, I think 11.49 or faster requires a cage. I also think that 13.99 or faster requires a helmet at most tracks.

Here in NC, not many of the tracks enforce the rules. There's no tech inspection or anything where we normally run. Most places here, you can run 9's with the top down and your hair on fire if you want.

Thanks guys.

I think I'm pretty close to the bottom on the motor, looks like it might be time to spray it. There's a bit more in it on motor with more tire and better short times, but I'm more comfortable with the rear end leaving it at the mid 1.6 level.

The avatar is the first 11 it ever ran. I think it was pretty much stock with a small shot of dope for that pass.

Ran a new best at Fayetteville Motorsports Park today. Track prep was so-so, air was great. DA was about -500 most of the day.

1.6596
7.3581 @ 96.71
11.3706 @ 122.88

Car is a 91 Corvette, 6 speed, basic 383 bottom end, AFR competition port 195's, XFI cam, and an Mseven tune.

Still loving the nitto's. The 1.65 was with 20 PSI in them, a 4-5 second burnout, and a 4000 RPM launch. Dead hook, no bog, and rolled out.

All in all, I'm pretty pleased.

I have the Centerforce Dual Friction in my car. No complaints.

I'm interested in the Corsa.

My pops has the Borla on his car and it sounds great. Not too terrible during normal driving, but pretty decent at WOT. Sound is so subjective, it's hard to get a feel without actually hearing one.

It's gonna be different for every car and every track. There are some guidelines you can use, but for the most part you'll just have to play around at the track and see what the care likes. The prep, type of burnout you do, launch technique, if you're looking for some spin or a dead hook, etc... All that stuff will affect what PSI and launch RPM you use.

91 M6, 383, AFR 195's, D44 with 3.90 gears, nitto drag radials.

1.7069
7.5174 @ 94.62
11.6169 @ 121.13

+1200 DA.

Thanks for the tips man!

Why the struggle for 1.7's? With that kind of seat time, I would think 1.7's would be just about automatic for you by now?

Are you using the stock gears in your Z?

My father has a 91 Z with a DRM 475 package and it's a nightmare to try and launch well. The LT5's make power at such a high RPM, it's hard to get them to leave well with the stock gears.

I'll probably do those next I guess. The nittos on the car now are still pretty new, but once they wear out I'll give those a shot.

I just went and looked at them, they are NT555R's.

I started with 25 PSI in them, and went down to 22 after a couple runs.

All-

In my post about my new best, I forgot to point out that I'm using an Mseven tune. I just want to say that without his help, the car never would have come together.

He's been my guiding light on the tune from nearly day one. Back when my car was the fastest stock TPI car on the forum, his advice was invaluable. I tuned the car on a dyno myself, but without him on the phone walking me through certain aspects of it, the 12.8's the car was running never would have been possible. Then, when it was a converted LT1 intake car, he took over the tuning responsibilities entirely without missing a beat. The car has been through several versions of itself, and having such a solid tuner on your side makes the idea of extensively modding the car so much easier to deal with it's impossible to describe. Tuning is a jungle, there is as much bad information as good, and there are more hack tuners than quality without a doubt. Most shops that I've been around don't even have the gear to do a chip tune, nearly everyone is playing in the LSX sandbox now, and a quality chip tuner was tough for me to find. Alleviating yourself from the responsibility of the tune is a huge weight off anyones shoulders, and it frees you up to worry about the important stuff; heads, cam, bore, stroke, hookers, blow, etc... Relieving the stress of worrying about the tune is immeasurable, thanks man.

More than plugging his small tuning business, I just want to thank someone who has become a very good friend. He's infintely more knowledgeable than I am on nearly all things automotive (nitrous aside) and has had no qualms sharing what he knows with me.

I just want to publicly thank him for his countless hours and help over the past 5 years.

Thanks man, next time we're in the same state, beers are on me.

Mick-

Check out the Nascar schedule, let me know the next time there is a race in Charlotte and you think you can get the time to come down. I'll pull what little strings I have and get us some tickets.

Thanks Jim.

Also, big thanks to Mseven. I'm on his out of the box tune, and the car is running fantastic!

About 2 months ago, the car trapped 123.5 MPH, but today 121 is all it would do. The heat and head wind was murder today. A buddy of mine runs pretty consistent 118 MPH in his C5 Zo6, today 116 was all he could muster.

I'd really love to see the car trap 125, and I think on a cooler day and with some tuning/driver tweaks it might make it.

I don't know if there is more than one nitto drag radial or not. I think mine say, "Extreme drag" on the sidewall.

Still all motor. Looking for deep 10's and 135+ when I spray it.

Some friends and I hit the drag strip in Fayetteville, NC today. I ended up with a new best:

1.7069
7.51 @ 94.62
11.61 @ 121.13

I think most people on here know what the car is, but if there is anyone new:

-91 vette, six speed
-383 with AFR heads
-315/35-17 nitto drag radials
-Mseven tune

It was hot (80+ degrees) and there was a headwind all day.

Still digging the nittos, getting dead hook with 4000-4500 RPM launches today.

[edit]To credit my tuner, couldn't be done without him![/edit]

Pep Boys or some other rinky dink shop can tell you what the labor guide says for the clutch swap. Or maybe someone on here has access to Mitchell 1.

The clutch looks great.

I would think 10 hours of labor for all that, maybe a tick more.

I have heard of people breaking distributor caps when they take out the C-beam and let the weight of the transmission hang on the motor. Sometimes there is enough flex in the motor mounts for the cap to hit the firewall. It's never happened to me, but that's one more thing that can go wrong.

Awhile back, a guy hired me to do a clutch and a cam in his 96 C4. I did the clutch first, then the cam. It turns out one of the cam bearings was spinning in the block, so the motor had to be pulled and sent back to the builder. The builder fixed the motor, and I put it back in. I've never been able to get the pilot bearing to align if I leave the motor in the car, so I ended up pulling the transmission twice for the guy. All in all, the process for me was:

-Trans out, flywheel and clutch in, new clutch hyraulics in.
-Cam out. Bearing problem discovered.
-Trans out, again.
-Motor out.
-Motor in.
-Trans in.

I think I ended up charging the guy about $900. I probably had 40 hours in the stupid thing, so it worked out to about $20 an hour.

Mine's been gone for years now.

I seem to remember Jim's car being legal for 10.0 or so. I don't think he wants to go faster than 10.0.

I used to live up there, and I can vouch for the incredibly poor track. Denver is about 1500 feet higher in actual elevation, and cars are normally .2 faster in Denver than they are in Salt Lake City. I'm fairly certain that Rocky Mountain Raceway up in Salt Lake City is the slowest track on the planet.

My car picked up over a second and 11 MPH moving from SLC to Fayetteville, NC.

Oh ya, I'm back in NC now. My car stuff is still in Baltimore until the 30th of the month though. Let me know if you need anything and we'll work out a way to get it to you ASAP.

Don't sweat the season man, get it sqaured away and cruise down here to Raleigh. We'll hook up, drink a beer, and hit a TnT night down here. They run all year round here, November - February is when it cools down enough to really lay down some good numbers.

I'm hoping to close on my first house November 5th or so, so I know what you're going through with the home buying process. What a pain in the ass. Never in my life did I dream I would be spending six figures and feel so powerless. Buy a 6 figure car and the dealership is all but giving you a handjob, buy a 6 figure house and you've got to suck some dick to even get a phone call returned. What a tremendous bunch of bullshit, I can't believe some people wonder why the mortgage/banking system has all but failed. I'm so pissed off about it, there is SO much wrong with it, that it literally makes bile rise in the back of my throat if I think about it for more than a few minutes. Fuck, what a shitty way to end a post. My bad. Good luck with your car, and again, let me know if you need anything.

I have a bunch of extra parts, and I'm pretty close. If you need something in a hurry, let me know and we can meet in the middle somewhere.

Is the SPEC balanced to match the DM?

I don't know if the SPEC flywheel will work with the DF or not. If you could get some dimensions from Centerforce on their flywheel, and then measure yours you could figure it out.

If it were me, I would sell your SPEC stuff and grab the CF dual friction. That's only because I've had such good luck with the Center Force units though. My car makes about 425 and the Center Force hasn't ever complained. I also like how I can launch it at a lower RPM and it will slip some until the RPM's come up. It really helps to cushion the rear end from the shock of a clutch dump.

Jonescap and I put a Centerforce DF in his 96 about 2 years ago. His is a stock-ish LT4 with a 150 HP shot of nitrous. It made 498 RWHP on the gas. He was launching the car on the bottle, lifting the front wheels, cutting mid 1.5's (with a best of 1.51) on all the STOCK rear end parts and never broke anything. The only change from stock was the 4.09 gears. Stock half shafts, stock spindles, and parts store U-joints. Nothing fancy at all. I attribute his good luck to 1) his driving ability, and 2) the clutch absorbing a good amount of the shock and applying the power to the rear end over time instead of all at once. Granted, the time period from clutch drop until the rear end was seeing all 500 HP was probably less than a tenth, but applying that power over a tenth is infinitely better than smacking the rear instantly with full engine power.

Counting horror stories based on clutch brand is tough... Most of the problems are either install related, or related to the hydraulic system. Inevitably, the clutch hard parts get blamed and then ranted and raved about on the forums. Then, it turns out the real issue was the jack ass that didn't realize righty-tighty / lefty-lucy wasn't applicable to the pivot ball/stud; but that never gets talked about.

As long as I was using new parts, I never had a problem that could be attributed to the pressure plate, disk, or flywheel. Have I had problems, sure, but it was always do to my own idiocy or failing/failed hydraulics.

The lock bolt in the pivot stud, the FSM gives a torque value of 23 Ft. Lbs. (if memory serves); well, you'll break it off if you try that. Bleeding the hydraulics using the dumb ass bleeder valve on the slave instead of filling the system through the bleeder. Flanged nuts that can't be tightened down appropriately on a cast slave. That's the stuff that messes people up on their first go-around with the ZF6. I would bet that 99% of the horror stories you read are really related to those things, and not hard parts.

And no, the hub bolt should not be loose.