There is no reason to over torque O2 sensors. There is very very little pressure in the pipes. Later! Frank

Silicone is used in tire construction to protect them from UV and ozone and has been the #1 choice for rubber products almost forever. Later! Frank

Most of the time all is needed is a set of brushes or a solenoid. If the armature needs turning you might as well buy a quality rebuilt. Later! Frank

It is an auto. Later! Frank

My 93 has an intermittent clunk that seems to be coming from the differential. It comes and goes with no rime or reason. It is only noticeable on up and down shifts. Mostly on up-shifts. I don't think it is brake related. The FSM says it is a worn differential shaft in the case. The exploded view in the manual (page 4B-2) does not list a part by that name. Are they talking about the yoke (axle) shaft? Later! Frank

PS: The u-joints are good.

I was able to do mine by removing the belt, idler pulley assembly and the panels over the inner control arms. Use the 8 MM wires with new looms from Autozone, Checker etc. My original looms were brittle and most broke pulling them out. If the plugs have a lot of miles this would be the time to replace them as already stated above. Later! Frank

I don't doubt what Comp told you is true except they were talking about the crank gear. Back in the 70s a lot of full size Chevy sedans came with a timing gear that was retarded. I want to say 2 degrees but don't quote me. This was done strictly for mileage because we were in a supposed fuel shortage. One of the popular mods was to remove the gear, turn it over, grind a bevel on it and reinstall. This was well published mod at the time. The replacement timing sets at the time were not retarded. Later! Frank

Go to Mobil's web site to see what they have to say. Later! Frank

I have a set on my 93. They fit perfectly and were easy to get straight. Follow the directions when cutting the pipes. Later! Frank

Remove and clean both surfaces. Put the hub ID on a 100 watt bulb for a few minutes. It will slide right on. Have a couple wet rags handy to cool the hub. Later! Frank

No advantage at all. If you rev it high enough to float the valves it doesn't make any difference what the preload is. Later! Frank

With no more info I would say your bolts have bottomed out. Later! Frank

There is a tube on that side that the PCV system used for inlet air. It runs from the throttle body back the the intake manifold. There is a rubber grommet on the end of the tube. Make sure the tube is plugged in and the grommet is not worn out. I would also check the PCV valve for proper operation. It is on the driver side under the injector cover. Later! Frank

Compressing will be easier by far than pulling it out. Later! Frank

I never owned a car/truck that fired after top dead center. All were several degrees before TDC. If you are retarding the timing you are removing some of the degrees before TDC. Later! Frank

Thanks for all the input guys. I found out what I needed to know when I installed the switch. Later! Frank

StricK, I am sitting here going over my oil analysis/report history on my Duramax. Blackstone did six analysis for me from 9-04 through 3-07. Three were Rotella 15-40, one Rotella Synthetic 5-40, one Mobil 1 5-40 and one Amsoil 15-40 synthetic. All of these have zero manganese. There is plenty of zinc though. The mileage varied from 5600 to 7500.

Not one of the above oils tested any better than the rest. I have done all my oil changes for the last 47 years. The only oil I ever had a problem with was the old non-detergents in the early sixties. MHO is there are no bad name brand oils. As little as 6% fuel in the oil will take 40 weight down to 20 weight. It doesn't take much antifreeze to destroy the bearings. There is no way to say the oil caused a problem with out having it analyzed.

I just bought my Vette the first week in Nov. It has Mobil 1 in it. I plan to have it analyzed at 4 or 5K miles. I will probably replace it with one of the 5-40 synthetics. This will give me a baseline for future test. Later! Frank

Exactly DropTop. Like I said I could run either but not both. Later! Frank

The first question I posted above is: Will this wire carry the current for a small light? In my case the answer is no! I bought a switch with a built in LED. I could run the fans or the light but not both at the same time. The job is done and the fans work fine. Later! Frank

Right! The wire I tapped into is the relay ground only. Later! Frank

The computer grounds the relay which starts the fan. I have tapped into both ground wires and tested the wiring. Both start fine. My concern was if the small wire low amp circuit would carry the load. I like a light because I am old and getting a little senile. I don't want to be running both fans any more than necessary. I think you answered my question Coaster. Thanks to all that responded. Later! Frank

The first place I went was the Tech Library. All I see are two unrelated articles. Later! Frank

I started wiring in a manual switch for my cooling fans today. I had no trouble finding and splicing into the relay ground wires that go to the ECM. There is a convenient hole right next to the upper door hinge for the wires to the switch. I have a couple questions I couldn't find answers for when using the search engine. I always like to install a red light with toggle switches. The voltage is 12+ on the small ground wire that I am grounding. The first question is: Will this wire carry the current for a small light? Question two: Do you bring on both fans or just the primary or secondary? Later! Frank

Take it to a good welder for evaluation before trashing it. You just learned a lesson in the school of hard knocks. It takes many years to graduate. Later! Frank

They are most always in series. Later! Frank

That's the one. Thanks bogus. Later! Frank

I read an article complete with photos awhile back on changing out the LT-1 injectors. Can someone post a link to this article? Thanks. Later! Frank

Ditto CFI. Changing the timing chain is not a novice job. Later! Frank

Too old and too much. Later! Frank

Always install new gears and chain when rebuilding or installing a new cam. Later! Frank

I am sixty + and not near as handy as I used to be. I was able to do mine without too much difficulty by removing the belt, tensioner assembly and part of the wheel well. Good luck. Later! Frank

What type of valve seats are used in the LT-1? Later! Frank