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| dan0617 | Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Senior Guru
 
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I'm soon going to be swapping the D36 for a D44, and installing polygraphite bushings everywhere while I'm back there. I know what all needs done and what all parts are needed but have never removed or installed an independent rear myself.
Can anyone tell me or give me a link to a thread that has the step by step process? I can easily see what all bolts and such need removed to drop the diff out, but what should be removed first, and what is the order of install on stuff like the batwing/driveshaft/diff/etc.? Is there a way to do this without needing a new alignment? I was thinking of marking all the adjustment points so I can reinstall them back to where they were. |
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Posted on: 2009/10/4 15:50
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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| PeteK | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Jesse did an outstanding photo documentation, and had it as a tech tip on the corvette forum.
To save your alignment, simlpy pull the 2 bolts that hold each cam adjuster to the bottom corners of the diff. Losten the bolt at the opposite end of the strut rod, and it rolls right out. You found a good dana 44 I assume? |
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Posted on: 2009/10/4 15:55
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"It was really on a pass until it came apart." "Yeah. They always are." |
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| dan0617 | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Well, I'm waiting on a guy to get his D44 centersection removed so I can buy it from him. Other than that I think I have all I need.
I bought an adapter plate to use with my D36 batwing, a D44 C-beam and driveshaft, a 45 tooth speedometer driven gear, Neapco Brute Force u-joints, polygraphite bushings for the whole rear and trailing arms. I'm just waiting on the centersection. I'll look for that thread on CF. Most of them are gone for some reason. I did find one that had some pics, but it had a link to a previous thread by Jesse but when I click on the link the thread is gone. The one I looked at did not say when or what the best method is to remove and reinstall the spring, and that is what concerns me the most. |
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Posted on: 2009/10/4 16:06
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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| bogus | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
 
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If you do poly, just to the batwing and sway bars.
Leave the rest rubber and upgrade to the Banski kit. Poly bushings in the rear arms will only lead to binding issues.... |
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Posted on: 2009/10/4 16:07
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| PeteK | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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The spring is not a big deal. A small floor jack, and a piece of 2x4 will push it up, and allow you to spin the nut down and off. Do this after the car is on jackstands.
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Posted on: 2009/10/4 16:08
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"It was really on a pass until it came apart." "Yeah. They always are." |
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| PeteK | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Be sure to wash out the other diff. I use atf. You may want to buy the new axle seals and pinion seals while it is on the bench. I have found the GM dealer to have the best price on a National brand seal.
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Posted on: 2009/10/4 16:10
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"It was really on a pass until it came apart." "Yeah. They always are." |
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| dan0617 | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Senior Guru
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Quote:
I actually bought polygraphite from Performance Suspension Technology (PST) for the batwing, control (trailing?) arms, spring cushions, and strut rods (dog bones?). They are impregnated with graphite so they are not supposed to bind or squeak. Have you had bad luck with these? I was told not to go with straight poly because they do bind. |
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Posted on: 2009/10/4 16:40
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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| dan0617 | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Quote:
I will wash it out good with atf. Thanks for the idea! The guy I'm getting it from is going to make sure there are no leaks before pulling it out, and if there are he is going to tell me where. I don't want to pull it apart at all to replace the seals if they are not leaking, but I will if I need to. |
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Posted on: 2009/10/4 16:42
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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| pianoguy | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Guru Emeritus
 
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CentralCoaster makes it look easy ;-)
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Posted on: 2009/10/4 18:34
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1996 LT4 �Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them and you have their shoes.�- Jack Handey |
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| jhammons01 | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Senior Guru
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^^Dan, I did it, and basically it is as simple as that loop that CC posted.
Just start taking things out in a logical order. It really is a simple process. Trying to use a jack was a mistake. I used it taking the D36 out. basically you take the pin out of one side and let that one side down....then do the other side and let it down slowly. Putting the new one is the same way. life up one side and put the pin(large bolt) in.....then go to the other side and lift and put the pin in. Everything else is basically....what bolts hold it in....take 'em loose and remove [X] item.... |
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Posted on: 2009/10/5 0:19
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| 1Fast04Vert | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Elite Guru
 
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Do you still need/want a step by step procedure?
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Posted on: 2009/10/5 0:30
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2004 Vert. 475hp. Built by Vengeance Racing |
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| Matatk | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Webmaster
 
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You can look at my thread. I included a lot of pictures and some of my bumps along the way.
Matthew |
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Posted on: 2009/10/5 1:17
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2002 EBM convertible, Magnusson supercharger, cam, headers, etc. 1989 Corvette...RIP |
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| pr0zac | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Elite Guru
 
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let me know if that d44 deal falls through.
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Posted on: 2009/10/5 4:47
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96 lt4. 357ci, 11:1, LE 226/232, LE2 LT4 heads, ported LT4 intake, EM Gladiator44, EM LT's, stock exhaust, NX kit. |
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| dan0617 | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Senior Guru
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Quote:
I found Jesse's thread on the other forum that is a pretty good step by step procedure. His trans, C-beam and driveshaft were already out but I think I can figure that part out ok. Thanks for offering! |
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Posted on: 2009/10/5 13:01
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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| 1Fast04Vert | Re: Rear Diff Removal | ||
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Elite Guru
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Quote:
No problem. The only issue I ran into was the C-Beam nuts. They are a pain to get to and if I remember right it was a 23mm wrench and of course the largest I had was a 22mm. Then I cracked my 8mm socket on the ujoint bolts, fortunately I had a 5/16" which worked just fine. Be carefull torquing the diff assembly to the batwing, going by memory you only want 19ft lbs torque, you sure don't want to strip any of those bolts out. |
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Posted on: 2009/10/5 14:29
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2004 Vert. 475hp. Built by Vengeance Racing |
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