Here's one for the racers.

What's your favorite Brake Pads, Rotors and Fluid for AX and HPDE and why?

Brake Pads:
Carbotech, I'm currently running xp12/xp8 for time trials.

I've tried EBC yellows. Thank goodness they were free cause I would have been pissed if I had to pay for them. Long lasting pad, tore rotors up, when cold stopped a little better than street pads, when hot they stopped like the Carbotech AX pads.

Brake Rotors:
I try to find made in USA (unobtanium), made in Canada (approaching unobtanium), or China inexpensive rotors. I lucked out and got two sets of front rotors 4 years ago before Rockauto stopped carrying the raybestos red label.

Fluid:
ATE (bule or gold)
Valvoline Synpower is my current fluid. Its like $9 a quart compared to the ATE at $12 - $20 a can. It can be found at most auto parts stores. I bleed / flush often enough that it doesn't matter. When I get some air on the fronts I won't have to bleed as often.

Don, assuming this is for your car, a couple of questions.
1. Do you want to run the same pads on the street?
2. If so, are you willing to put up with: possible noise, more brake dust or accelerated rotor wear?

Hit the tech section and read Andy's Brake Fluid page.
I run Castrol LMA in the C4 but it only sees light duty on the big tracks since I only use it to instruct. I also use LMA in the racecar. The Valvoline SYN also works fine.
Unless you're running top times and using the brakes hard, there's no reason to move up.

Stock rotors or replacements will be just fine.

If you want a set of pads that will be OK for your first year and IF you don't want to change pads for track days, get Hawk HPS. HPS will improve the stock braking by 50%+. You can move up to HP+ but they can be noisy and they operate at a higher temp so, cold braking will suffer slightly.
Carbotechs are very good pads, so are Perfoemance Friction.

The most important thing with pads and rotors is proper bed in and proper rotor prep if you're changing pad compounds. Many guys (and a bunch of racers) don't do it right.

And if you're daily driving on your track pads, they should be rebedded before you go on the track.

Bill,

I plan to use the same pads for street and track. I currently have Hawk HPS pads installed but they have about 15k miles on them. I haven't measured the thickness so they may be ok. The bad thing is that I have the cheesy drilled and slotted rotors on it and they may not be that great for the track. I also understand that they can't be turned, so I'd have to replace rotors and pads when I do that. The Hawks have been good so far, so I will stick with them if you think they are a good choice.

I bought a nice Motive Products pressure bleeder kit but haven't used it, and also installed the Goodridge SS lines and speed bleeders when I upgraded to Grand Sport Brakes. All of this was done about 15k miles ago.

I am planning on at least three AX events before June and then a one day HPDE at Virginia International Raceway the end of June. I have lots of time to get ready for the HPDE, but I'm only doing two 20 minute sessions at VIR, so it seems like a lot of preparation for two 20 minute rides.

Don, I'd pull the wheels and check the lining thickness. If you're easy on brakes on the street, the HPS you have now should be fine. I have 15k on a set and they're not even half gone.

For VIR, I wouldn't do anything other than changing brake fluid, especially after the 3 AutoXs.

With the speedbleeders, the Motive is a bit redundant. One thing on the Motive, don't leave brake fluid in it after you use it, dump what's left back into a can (provided it's clean).

While the car's up on stands, take a real close look at all your suspension bolts, you may want to check them witha wrench.
I would do a brake bed in on the old pads right before VIR.

Other than that, you don't need anything for VIR. I'd use up your "crappy" rotors before changing them out.

I'd like to race VIR but it wasn't there when I was in Pa.

You will want two different things for Auto-x versus open track. For Auto-X you want good initial bite, closer to what street pads give you. You don't have time to get heat in your pads on a 30 sec "low" speed run. For the open track, you want something that can take the heat and not give you fade. This usually means that they're not great at city speeds, and will dust and squeal.

My suggestion is to buy for the track and swap them. Use the same pads for street and Auto-x. I thought the Hawk HP+ were good on the street, tolerable on the track. But they generate dust like a tazmanian devil and squeal like a schoolbus. Can you live with that? Most can't.

HPS are nice pads, but I killed a set (and subsequently, almost myself) in two laps on a track with lower speeds than VIR. However, keep in mind that I drive a lot more aggressively than you probably will until you have a more events under your belt.

I hate to say it, but ideally you should have some track pads. They're not that much money, and it's only an hour to change them. If you don't mind driving them on the street, great! Problem solved

I don't know what's out there for GS rotors, but Powerslot is a brand that makes good stuff, and they make products for many OEM applications.

Personally, I use PFC 01 pads and DBA rotors.

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I had the same experience. I would not ever use HPS or stock Z06 pads for track use. My first track event at Road America I had HPS on for so I always recommend track pads. Use the HPS for autox and get some track pads for VIR.

what happens to PF z rated pads after a day at the track

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The GS rotors are simply 13" rotors versus the factory 12"

What are DBA rotors?

Disc Brake Austrailia. I used to use a Brembo rotor but they stopped making the one I needed. I found these in a Stillen kit and tried them, I've been happy so far.

DBA makes street stuff as well, they might have one for the C4. Check them out, although I can't vouch for them in this application. You can get them from a bunch of US distributors. They have a street line, and the 4000 and 5000 lines. The ones I get aren't even listed...maybe because they're $350 each.

http://www.dbadirect.com.au/

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a friend of mine did an upgrade a while back

here's 12in vs 13in J55's

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Yup... What he showed in the picha!

There's 2 parts to this thread:

1. What are your faves for the track.

And

2. What Don needs to do for VIR.

What he needs to do for VIR is change brake fluid and that's about it.

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Ask Jeffvette - he may be able to get you some very nice rotors for a good price.

Matthew