I had a rear hub/bearing go bad. It lasted about 4 years and something around 30K miles. Guess I can't complain, it was a 'precision bearing' from partsladi on ebay.

Now anyone have a good source for a replacement that won't bankrupt my budget? Also any to stay clear of?

ps - Corvette Recycling is out of the NOS ones.

30k? That about SUCKS, dude... I put some Chicago Rawhides on mine (I think?) about 8 years and 100k miles ago. Still fine... doubt they are perfect, but they seem fine.

I don't know what to suggest... they are not cheap... figure $200ea!! Check NAPA maybe... You can always call Chris May at Superior Chevy, 1.800.628.8267. Tell him I sent ya.

The fronts are more expensive because of the ABS sensor.

cant you use 4th gen fbody hubs on the front?

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I have heard that. Hvae to drill the holes out a tad larger (19/32"?). My fronts are just fine, trying to decide where to get the rear one right now. There are a ton of options on ebay, but who to trust?

I have it all pulled apart and ready to go back together when I get the new one. Dealer prices are ridiculous. Advance Auto has a National Brand for $150 and there are a lot of even cheaper ones on ebay.

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home

heard they are the best for racing NAPA 190.00

rollers I heard builds too much heat

Just bought mine from ROCK AUTO, SKF bearing BR930024 for $ 159.79 each.

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only one?

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For me, I bought the two rears. I do them together, vice one at a time or as needed? That way they are equally repaired.

30k miles is pretty a pretty short life for a wheel bearing, unless you're really flogging your car.

If it's for street use only I'd check RockAuto or GM Parts Direct.

If you're looking for something a bit more substantial, the SKF bearings are good but something I'd recommend that's comparably priced is the VanSteel bearing offered from Hardbar.

Can't make any recommendations as far as sellers on ebay, I don't have any experience with them.

Steve, thanks for the tip on Rock Auto. I am thinking I will probably go with them and the SKF bearings.

Tom, in the last 3 yrs I have about 20 laps at Road Atlanta,
maybe 50 at Atlanta Motorspeedway, and several hundred run at the local strip. Actually the hardest on the car though is several thousand miles of hi speed runs thru the N GA mountains. Even that would not 'kill' a good hub, but I had a piece of Chinese crap hub(s) on the car. Partsladi insisted they were American made and top quality before I bought them, then after the sale they would not take them back. They suck.

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One thing I always remind people is that the bearings may need a break in period when new. Randy at DRM recommended 1000 miles of break in, before going racing on them. He said these bearing get REAL hot when racing.
MAybe we ought to look into coolers for our bearings, such as the brake coolers?

My suggestion is to buy the cheap ones. I go through bearings like candy in the rear; I've tried the fancy expensive ones and they are no better. In fact, the fancy $350 tapered ones some guys on the CF experimented with were actually worse. Normally I'm the guy saying "buy the good stuff or you'll regret it", but this is definately the exception. Rear bearings are junk on C4's. Fact of life, don't overpay.

I don't see the need to replace them at the same time, however, unless they are both bad. I go through them on the left side about 2 to 1, but that's obviously because my car has a unique lifestyle and mostly turns right.

I don't have the luxury of a break in period, but I have read that many times from many sources and would try it if I could...seems like reasonable advice.

I still have the tapered, I haven't pulled them off to check them or had a reason to.

Although I've driven the car like a pussy for the past 2 years.

With that said, what do you guys think about a break-in period for these bearings? I bet mine will last longer now that I didn't abuse them off the bat.

I installed a pair awhile back, one Chinese and one SKF, and they both had noticeable slop after only 2 auto-x events in 2 months. And they got hot enough to blow grease out of the seal.