Has anyone removed and replaced the upper fender liners that are riveted to the hood? I want to remove mine to clean underneath them, and to spray them with the same rubberized undercoating I used on the other wheel house liners.

Do they require special rivets to replace them once I drill out the old ones?

Mine are screwed. The rivets are another cost saving measure, I guess. I would hope they would be some kind of push rivets that don't have to be drilled out, but that would be asking too much, I suppose.
On the undercoating, I can see how it would improve the look, and was considering doing it on mine, but held off because I always wipe the area down and wondered if the rough finish would hold the dirt and make it harder.

yea, mine are screwed in, too. With big torx bolts.

Shine a light up there and see what you see.

'94 the bean counters must have said to do away with the nice torx fasteners and use cheaper rivets! I'll take a photo later.

I would think you could replace them with nut-serts

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I don't know about that... but I'm a serta fiable nut! LOL

Here is a photo of the damn things. I never seen them before other than on this car.

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Yea, definately. And some chrome 10-32 screws.

Get the nut serts with the anti-rotation feature.

Mine are torx heads but my car is a lot older then yours. This brings another question to mind, what are folks using to restore the original black color. Mine are real washed out.

Do you guys know the best way for removing these rivets? I was going to drill them out, but I'm not sure that is the best way with these. They are not you standard pop-rivet.

I glanced at mine the other day since the hood is up. They do look nasty.

Don, I think you could still just drill them out or Dremel the head off maybe?

Well, that's done! 5 minutes with a drill and a 5/32" bit.
All kinds of dirt and crap under there though. After I clean up the hood and the fender liners I'll figure out what the best fastener will be. There is no means to get behind the hood in the are that they mount so they will need something that is inserted from the outside and will not spin. The rivets were spinning pretty good when I drilled them out too.

nylon inserts may work.

@Marcus - I don't know what to do to restore these things. They look almost parkerized... I am replacing mine with allen heads!

Oh, as for the inner fender, cover it with black truck bed liner. Looks like a million bucks when done and super strong!

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Yeah.. what Andy said. I used the rubberized undercoating rattle cans on the few pieces I did so far and I'm not real pleased. It doesn't feel rubbery at all and actually seems a little chalky. Now this could be due to two things. 1) the cans of undercoat are about a year old, although never used
2) I took them in the house to get to room temperature before use, but the garage was pretty cold during application and they have been on the shelf in the cold garage all winter. So perhaps I degraded the materials. I'm already considering removing this stuff and using something else! ARRRGGGhhh!

I'll keep you all informed as to the progress of this side job that is now costing me time and energy.

I mean truck bed liner:

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/truckBedCoating/

I used the big can with the roller kit. Works very nicely.

Nuts! I already had a bed liner all cut up and trying to glue the pieces on...........never mind.

What's the prep for the coating?

good cleaning... scuff up paint... nothing all that hard. I was rather lazy doing prep, and the crap stuck anyway!

Did it dry black? The stuff I used is kind of brownish black and very flat like "flat black" paint. I don't mind it being flat black, just not flaky!

Well, I just did a little experiment. I took a can of Eastwood's Chassis Black spray paint and shot a coat of matte black over top of the undercoating. It hasn't dried completely but appears to have absorbed the paint and took on the real black and a much better texture than before. Maybe I'm on to something.

My uncle who owns a body shop says 3M has a nice product too. I'm going to check that one out as well.

The hood ducts have small rectangular slot to allow a u-nut (of the type that holds the wheelhouse to the bumper) to be slipped on. The screw then goes through the same hole your rivet did and is held by the u-nut.
Yeah, some of the undercoat has a brownish tinge, depends on the brand. Good luck with painting over it (no adverse reaction). If I was doing it, the paint would melt the undercoating, ha-ha.

on, If you want to try a 10-32 nutsert with the anti-rotation tab, I'll mail you one.

You can jury-rig a tool out of a 10-32 bolt to compress the nut sert.

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Sure... PM comin' your way! Thanks