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| TommyT-Bone | Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Chair-man of the bored
 
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What are the disadvantages I will face if I decide to go cheap on the paint job and just have them prep, tape and shoot verses remove the bumpers prep, paint and shoot on my 91 Corvette. It's not a show car and will never be a show car but I want her to look pretty. My guess is there will be some overspray situations especially around the light lenses. I also see some potential issues with the back bumper seam. Thoughts? ......... Would it be wrong of me to brush paint the underhood black? Another option would be to rattle can spray it high heat black before she goes for exterior paint. I just don't want to spend a fortune on a paint job. It's money I'd never recover. I dont want to spend 6K on an 11K car (after paint). The guy that did my 90 Corvette quoted me $2850, bumpers off. I was gonna check out Maaco and see what they come up with. I'm willing to pay extra for good quality materials and good prep. I'd like to try and get by on about $1800. Am I dreaming or should I just pay the $2850 for an exterior only good quality job?
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Posted on: 2011/2/5 18:04
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| BillH | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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The Stig Moderator
 
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First, the hood. If you paint if first, it will probably see over spray. I will fly to Florida ans strangle you if you use a brush.  Before it goes to the paintshop, clean the underside. Get a roll of plastic sheet at HD. Cover the motor, front fenders, front bumper. Spray full strength simple green into all the crevasses and the entire hood, wash it with a high concentration of Dawn & hot water. Hose it off. If you have a compressor, blow out all the crevasses. Wash it again with Dawn to remove any grease that you blew out with the air. It's best to lightly hand sand with 400 wet/dry with some Dawn in the water bucket. I don't recommend any prep solvent (oil remover) on fiberglass, any crack or bare glass will absorb the prep solv and bubble after it's painted. When you get it back from the paint shop, cover everything and in and paint with a rattle can. I recommend Duplicolor Ceramic High Temp. It has a satin finish and is good to 500*. |
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Posted on: 2011/2/5 18:47
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| BillH | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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The Stig Moderator
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The thing with Maaco is the guys who work there, some do a decent job, some don't. I'd try to find an independent who uses PPG or equivalent. Maaco uses their own paint and their upgrades involve adding urethane catalyst to the regular paint. And you do have to tell them (and pay for) good sanding and primer. With paint, it's all in the prep.
If you don't want to do the wet sanding, that's fine but at least remove all the grease and wax with a good hand wash (high concentrate of Dawn). The last time I did this on my van, I hand sanded and did the body work. A local shop put on primer, color and clear for $1,200. |
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Posted on: 2011/2/5 19:00
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| TommyT-Bone | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Chair-man of the bored
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 I knew when I wrote it that I'd never brush it.What about the front and rear cap? Pull or not pull? |
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Posted on: 2011/2/5 19:07
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| BillH | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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The Stig Moderator
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I was incorrect on the Duplicolor @ 500 degrees, it's rated at 1,200 degrees.
Search for it @ forum vendor TCP or http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/high-temperature.aspx |
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Posted on: 2011/2/5 19:09
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| bogus | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
 
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When mine was painted, we didn't remove bumpers. I did wash it with dawn, first, tho.
I removed the badges, gills, front plate, rear tail light lenses. The gills are easier to shoot off the car. I also removed the b-pillar and top seals, but your's is a vert, so that will have some extra requirements. They will need to mask off the entire interior compartment. I was lucky, there wasn't a huge body damage issue. A few stone chips, that kinda thing. One Day Paint used a base/clear made by Sherwin Williams. |
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Posted on: 2011/2/5 19:47
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| BillH | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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The Stig Moderator
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Good Stuff. Also PPG and R&M. |
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Posted on: 2011/2/5 20:24
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| TommyT-Bone | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Chair-man of the bored
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I want to keep the Dark Red Metallic. It has grown on me.
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Posted on: 2011/2/6 0:10
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| 1Fast04Vert | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Elite Guru
 
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I agree with Bill on the underhood prep, except I used regular household rubbing alcohol as the final rubdown before I painted it, and a scuff pad instead of sandpaper. Just wipe it down with a rag and the alcohol and then give it time to evaporate. I taped off the top side of the hood and the bumper just to be sure there was no overspray and covered the rest with some old moving van pads. It came out fair (not great) as is usual with a rattle can, but no bubbles nor orange peel.
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Posted on: 2011/2/6 16:07
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| bogus | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
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gee... thin the paint down and use a roller.
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Posted on: 2011/2/6 18:47
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| BrianCunningham | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Senior Guru
 
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Have you seen 'Dragon Vette' 'over there'?
guy paints his C6 a different color every week, with a roller! http://www.corvetteblogger.com/2010/0 ... too-far-the-dragon-vette/ |
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Posted on: 2011/2/6 22:56
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_________________
Polo Green 95 LT1 6-spd http://mysite.verizon.net/vzevcp74/ 383 LT1/Vortech Supercharger/AFR heads/Rod end suspension/Penske-Hardbar dual rate coilovers/Wilwood 6pot brakes NCCC Governor: http://BayStateCorvetteClub.com |
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| TommyT-Bone | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Chair-man of the bored
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I guess I could talk to an airbrush artist. I have a friend that can hook me up with engine, wheelwell and under carriage light kits. That might also resolve the painting under the hood issue. Stainless steel high polished plates. The lighting effects would be wicked.
A nice set of 22" wheels and a rockin big bass stereo set up and I'd be smokin. |
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Posted on: 2011/2/6 23:18
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| JeffK | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Elite Guru
 
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If you were closer, there's a member on CF that is in Charlotte. He quoted me $1600 for bumpers off color change so if you were staying same color it would probably be cheaper.
But in answer to your question, I would say bumpers off regardless. and headlight buckets out too. Hell NO to Maaco. I used to work at an autobody supplier. I saw what they called "prep" and it was a green scuff pad run over the paint a couple of times followed by a cursory swipe with prep-sol then on into the booth. |
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Posted on: 2011/2/7 13:39
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| BillH | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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The Stig Moderator
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Quote:
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Posted on: 2011/2/7 14:55
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| BillH | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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The Stig Moderator
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Exactly. Some guys have Maaco paint jobs where the paint actually stayed on the car but I believe they were just lucky. And if you pay Maaco to sand & prime properly, you're up to the $$$ that a local shop will charge (and you get better quality paint). |
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Posted on: 2011/2/7 15:03
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| TommyT-Bone | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Chair-man of the bored
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Posted on: 2011/2/8 0:41
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| TommyT-Bone | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Chair-man of the bored
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I'm weighing a second option to delay painting a couple of years. A nose bra and large decal type rear deck overlay possibly intergrating the Saddle and Dark Red Metallic base colors of the car. I'll take a couple of quick pics to show what my issue is.
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Posted on: 2011/2/8 15:31
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| BillH | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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The Stig Moderator
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That way you could hit more cones. |
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Posted on: 2011/2/8 15:39
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| TommyT-Bone | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Chair-man of the bored
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....
A partial paint wouldn't work because of fade. The hood sides and rear look OK. The top rear deck and front bumper are suffering from clear coat breakdown. I could stretch out doing a total repaint with a couple of cover ups. It only delays the inevideble but it would look better than it does. Thoughts? Attach file:  HPIM1389.JPG (951.62 KB) HPIM1391.JPG (888.87 KB) |
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Posted on: 2011/2/8 15:46
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| BillH | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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The Stig Moderator
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You're pretty much screwed there T, it's almost impossible to coverup a clearcoat problem like that.
And (important) that clear has to come off before you repaint. Even a good epoxy primer won't ensure that you won't have problems with the new paint. Unfortunately, it has to be sanded down to the color coat. |
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Posted on: 2011/2/8 15:59
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| TommyT-Bone | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Chair-man of the bored
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That's what I was thinking about was taping, sanding to base and covering the rear deck . I know whatever you cover shows through imperfection wise so it has to be prepped. Have you ever seen the cars covered in advertising, or even race cars for that matter. Only thing is I would use the car color ... I know I'm being a cheap bastard but it's as you said. I'll only hit it with cones. LOL. I just don't want to look at peeling clearcoat anymore.
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Posted on: 2011/2/8 16:40
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| TommyT-Bone | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Chair-man of the bored
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Maybe I could make my rear deck a banner for Corvette-Guru.com.
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Posted on: 2011/2/8 16:42
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| BillH | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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The Stig Moderator
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The wrap on the nascars is $2,600 per car. |
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Posted on: 2011/2/8 16:52
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| TommyT-Bone | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Chair-man of the bored
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I just had a two sided sign 48" by 42" made and applied for $200 plus tax. I think that deck space would come in about the same. Matter of fact DataWiz over at CF did his whole Vette but that's his line of work.
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Posted on: 2011/2/8 17:26
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| TommyT-Bone | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Chair-man of the bored
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....
Attach file: DataWiz.jpg (134.03 KB) |
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Posted on: 2011/2/8 17:30
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| VtVette | Re: Prep, paint and shoot ...... | ||
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Guru
 
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Hi Tommy, don't know if this post is too late but hopefully this helps:
I've painted a dozen C4's (painting my '93 very right now). If masked carefully there is little danger of paint entering the under hood area. For the headlights, I remove the headlight covers (the curved covers that are exposed when the headlights are on) and paint them separate from the car. For the flat covers that are visible when the headlights are down they can be prepped with the body and 2" masking tape can be used to close the gap between the hood and the covers to avoid over spray under the hood. Ideal is to remove the headlights and paint the bezel and cover separate but for cost considerations there is nothing at all wrong with masking the gap. No need to remove the front bumper as long as the painter is diligent in getting any dust/dirt out between the hood and front bumper. There is no point where the front bumper attaches to the body so, there is no concern with paint bridging. For the rear bumper, I would recommend at least loosening all the bolts and pulling the bumper back 3/16" to 1/4" from the body. There is a chance of paint failure where the bumper mounts to the body, if the paint bridges and later cracks. It creates and ideal situation for peeling. It's not worth the risk. As Bill mentioned that failing/peeling clear will definitely have to be removed. This is easier than it sounds however - a DA sander with 180 grit (possibly 220 grit) paper will make quick work of that. I can fully DA a C4 in a few hours. If you can do some of the work yourself you can save $$$ on a paint job. Also, find a paint shop that is willing to work with you. Most paint shops make their money on insurance/collision work. If you can do some of the prep yourself then have them shoot it it works out for everyone. The other option is to go to a local paint supply store and talk to the guys at the counter. Tell them you are looking for a good paint job but don't have tons of $$$ to spend. They probably know of someone who can help you out. It will probably be someone who works at a body shop and does side work on the weekend. Hope this helps, |
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Posted on: 2011/6/5 3:33
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Brian VTvette 1993 triple black roadster 6 speed |
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