Hey Bogus good to hear from you. Been very busy the wife and I packed up and moved out of Vermont to Las Vegas. Could not pass up the deals the housing market had to offer last year. We've always loved the South West and decided it was now or never. We picked up a fantastic place for a song. We really love it here the suburbs are quiet, it's cheaper to live and the winters are much more mild.

Upon moving here a photojournalist friend of mine introduced me to Peter Brock, designer of the original Sting Ray Corvette, Daytona Coupe and Owner/Manager of the BRE Datsun Trans Am team in the late 60's and early 70's. He and his wife took a liking to me and my wife so, for the past year we've been working with them. Fascinating guy to say the least!

Great to see everyone is still here! I mildly considered selling the C4 to buy a C5 or C6 here in Vegas where it's much easier to justify the price as you can drive the car year round. A friend of mine who I worked with in VT and moved out here about 6 months before I did recently bought a C6 Z06. I just can't bring myself to sell the C4 though. I did buy a Mustang GT for the daily commute though.

I'll try to not be such a stranger!

Hello all, hope everyone is having a great New Year!

The drivers window on my '93 goes down about 80% of the way then stops about 4" to 5" from being all the way down into the door. I removed the door panel today and there is nothing I can see that would prevent travel all the way down. This happened all the sudden one day. The window travels back up fine and back down fine but slows about the same place each time, about 4 - 5" from being all the way down.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Yeah Andy that is a good question. I've owned many GM trucks from the late 80's to mid 90's, several with more than 200,000 miles and never once had a problem. I would bet it's the same column internals.

Thanks Guys - I've gone one coming.

Thanks for the tip's. I've spent time in many a GM column so,
I'm pretty familiar with them. Specifically the C4's.

Strange of all the C4's I've owned I've had more than a few with the steering column wobble I've fixed but, never had a multi-switch break. Seems it's a pretty common problem on the C4.

I think I found it:

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvet ... mer-switch-1990-1993.html

Could someone please confirm this is the "multi-switch"?

Thanks again,

Andy after further research I believe the multi-function switch is exactly what is broken.

Does anyone have the GM number for this? I've searched all the popular corvette parts sellers but cannot find one on their sites.

I have found the "turn signal switch", the large white plastic switch inside the column but I do not believe this is actually the multi-funcion switch. The multi-function switch is what activates the directional switch correct?

Thanks Andy for your help,

hello all, the directioal stalk in my '93 broke the other day. It appears the stalk in the correct orange lettering is no longer available. As it seems to purchase new i'm looking at white lettering does anyone know if this is a common directional stalk found in any GM vehicle from that period or, do I need to buy one specific for the later C4 Corvette?

thanks,

Hi Tommy, don't know if this post is too late but hopefully this helps:

I've painted a dozen C4's (painting my '93 very right now). If masked carefully there is little danger of paint entering the under hood area. For the headlights, I remove the headlight covers (the curved covers that are exposed when the headlights are on) and paint them separate from the car. For the flat covers that are visible when the headlights are down they can be prepped with the body and 2" masking tape can be used to close the gap between the hood and the covers to avoid over spray under the hood. Ideal is to remove the headlights and paint the bezel and cover separate but for cost considerations there is nothing at all wrong with masking the gap.

No need to remove the front bumper as long as the painter is diligent in getting any dust/dirt out between the hood and front bumper. There is no point where the front bumper attaches to the body so, there is no concern with paint bridging.

For the rear bumper, I would recommend at least loosening all the bolts and pulling the bumper back 3/16" to 1/4" from the body. There is a chance of paint failure where the bumper mounts to the body, if the paint bridges and later cracks. It creates and ideal situation for peeling. It's not worth the risk.

As Bill mentioned that failing/peeling clear will definitely have to be removed. This is easier than it sounds however - a DA sander with 180 grit (possibly 220 grit) paper will make quick work of that. I can fully DA a C4 in a few hours.

If you can do some of the work yourself you can save $$$ on a paint job.

Also, find a paint shop that is willing to work with you. Most paint shops make their money on insurance/collision work. If you can do some of the prep yourself then have them shoot it it works out for everyone. The other option is to go to a local paint supply store and talk to the guys at the counter. Tell them you are looking for a good paint job but don't have tons of $$$ to spend. They probably know of someone who can help you out. It will probably be someone who works at a body shop and does side work on the weekend.

Hope this helps,

I love my 6speed.

When I was younger I could never afford a 6speed Corvette.

I will never go back to Auto.

Hello all, I hope everyone is doing well this Spring. I am knee deep in the "restoration" of my '93. I hope to post up some pic's soon. Right now I am having an issue maybe someone here can help me out with. I am installing HID headlights in my '93 (in projector housings). I have come across a problem that perhaps others with HID's of knowledge of the headlight circuit in the C4 can help me out with.

The HID setup I have has a HI/LOW solenoid to switch between low beams and high beams. The solenoid has two wires, a ground and a trigger wire. The HID ballast of course has a power and ground wire as well.

This is the way I have the headlight wired up:

At the three wire connector for the factory headlight (in the car harness) there is a tan (low beam), Lt Green (High Beam) and Ground (Black). I have the ground wire hooked to both the HID Ballast ground, and the Ground for the hi/low solenoid (a tiny wire, it requires very little power). To power the HID's I have the tan low beam wire running to the positive side of the HID Ballast. My plan was to run the Lt Green wire to the 2nd wire on the Hi/Low solenoid to switch between hi and low's.

Headlights come on fine and power up no problem there. The issue is when I click the High Beam switch to turn on the high beams, it kills the headlights. I imagine in stock form the Headlight Control Module switches between low beam and high beam (turning off low beams and turning on high beams) when the high beams are turned on.

I believe I need to wire my setup so the low beams are on all the time regardless of weather the high or low's are selected (via the tan wire) and use the high beam wire (Light Green) to control the hi/low solenoid?

I do have a FSM but I am in the middle of assembling the car now as I just painted it. I have not had a chance to really investigate the workings of the Headlight Control Module. I have little time to work on the car and hope someone here may be able to point me in the right direction.

Thanks!

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice.

Hello, looking for the GM part number for the white oval push-in retaining clips into which the door panel screws thread into.

Does anyone have this part number?

Thanks,

Quote:

Yep - this is natural and as the weatherstrip "works itself" in the doors/roof/rear hatch will close properly after a few weeks time.

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Search Google for a product called "Gummi Pflege" This is a fantastic german weatherstrip treatment. I treat my weatherstrip every month or so and a 12oz bottle lasts for years. I buy mine at PelicanParts.com

A couple more tips - If the weatherstrip arrives with a chalky white powder on it soak the weatherstrip in a bucket of warm water for a while. This will help remove the white powder. Do not try to clean the weatherstrip with chemicals as it may damage it.

Before installation lay the weatherstrip out in the warm sun for a while (if you have warm sun in your area) or, in front of a warm heater draft. This will help loosen up the weatherstrip and make it more flexible during installation.

When installing, measure out the weatherstrip and start at the center of the panel. It is tempting to start at a corner (ie the windshield corner, rear hatch corners, etc) but, best figment will be achieved if you start at the center of the windshield above the rear view mirror and work out to each corner than down. Same with the rear hatch, targa panel, etc.

Willcox (Corvette Rubber) is my preferred brand. I will be changing out the weatherstrip on my '93 this spring with weatherstrip from Willcox. I have also used Lonestar long ago with good results.

Yep! We were out of there no later than 9:00am as I recall. Back when I worked for Hyundai's Rally Team we had our cars on display at HMA Headquarters in Fountain Valley. Doughnut Derelicts is just a few blocks down and one of the VP's at Hyundai was a real car nut and asked if I'd drive down with one of the Rally Car's to put it on display. As I said - a bunch of true car enthusiasts. He mentioned that manufacturers would sometimes bring prototypes/fresh models down to get the the crowd's opinions and input.

I wish we had that around here where I live!

Hey Bogus! Got your E-mail the other day thanks you very much. I tend to go in waves - sometimes I'm on the forums all the time, then I go for months without logging in at all. My car is in winter storage right now but, I am getting ready to hit it hard this spring - fresh paint, top, engine mod's, etc. I loved the C5 and it was "better" in every way over the C4 performance wise I won't lie but, I just love the look/feel/interior of my '93. I vacillated between C4/C5 and when a co-worker bought a Supercharged 2001 vert I finally had a chance to really drive one. Now I know I will keep the C4 for some time so, I'm putting a little time and money into her.

As I mentioned earlier I have no delusions of my car ever having any value as a "collector" or "classic" car. I was mainly curious about the term "triple black". I guess it's just that - a term, nothing less.

Biggest problem with black carpet: it gets to damn dirty with top down! Plus, it makes the interior a little claustrophobic to me. I figure tan carpet may brake it up a bit.

Thanks for the opinions. Always appreciate!

I went to "doughnut derelicts" in Huntington Beach years ago. As Bogus mentioned it was EARLY but, it was a great time! All types of cars from T buckets to late model Ferrari's. Nothing like a gathering of TRUE car guys! It was a fantastic time. Well worth attending.

Hi guys - opinion please:

I have a '93 vert "triple black" black/black/black 6 speed. I bought the car from the original owners son and although it has 95,000 miles now it is in excellent condition. I have all the parts to swap to C5 brakes this spring, Lloyd Elliot LE1 heads, I'm going to swap the cam out, roller rockers, put 4.11's in it and get a tune this spring. I may possibly add long tubes as well. Interior/exterior are fairly stock, double din touch screen stereo is the only modification inside (it will remain that way) and C5 replica wheels are the only exterior mod.

I've been prompted to put some work into the car this spring as I finally drove a C5 this past fall and have no interest in buying one. That means I will have the C4 for the foreseeable future.

I am likely going to replace the carpet this spring which is currently black. The car is and always will be a driver. While I have no delusions of collectability does being "triple black" make it any more desirable or is it just a catch phrase?

You guys thing changing the carpet to tan (complete carpet kit - dash, door panels, etc) would effect the value? My only concern is that I would not have the tan door panels of other C4s with tan /black interior.

Thanks for the opinions,

I purchased LED parking/directional and reverse lights from CorvetteHID. This weekend I'm going to order his HID headlights, brake light bulbs and the "cool while" LED interior kit. I've been back/fourth with the headlights but I've read nothing but good things about his quality.

I know if I search around I could probably find the bulbs for a little less but, he really seems to be into his work and the bulbs I've purchased thus far have been very high quality. It's a shame if he really does wind the business down but, I'm sure he has his reasons.

The other give away of a replica vs. the original was the vent window on the doors. Most replica's don't have it, the original does. Also, the Miami Vice replica has flared fenders (which look fantastic IMHO) where the original does not. There is an episode of Miami Vice where a scumbag lawyer is trying to mend his ways and redeem himself. He drives a REAL yellow Daytona spyder and the lack of fender flares and vent windows are pretty obvious compared to the black Vice replica.

Hey Johnny, welcome back home and THANK YOU for your service!!

I just bought a '04 Avalanche this past weekend. Same options you described but in black. GM really got this truck right!!

Hope you're enjoying your time home - If anyone deserves to enjoy all that our great country has to offer it's our soldier - Thanks again!

The Incredible is my first smartphone. I absolutely love it.

Android software is fantastic, and Sense UI is the icing on the cake.

Wife said she felt it. I didn't feel a thing?

It's crazy to buy new these days. Automobiles are better engineered, last longer (especially engines and drive trains) but prices fall faster than they ever have due to supply/demand fueled by the ability to manufacturer more vehicles than ever before.

Used all the way - plus if you can wrench the simple stuff yourself (fluid changes, brakes, shocks, wheel bearings, joints, etc) you're that much further ahead of the game.

I agree with flyboy - that's a great price for such a well kept '95.

Good Luck with your sale!

Hi Steve welcome!!

Hands down the most knowledgeable and the nicest group of Corvette enthusiasts call this place home. No question.

Quote:

FYI: Received new MSD Opti today. Came with a square O-ring.

They're the kind of thing you put off for a while then once you get around to fixing them you wonder why you waited so long.

The small stuff definitely makes the car more enjoyable overall.

Nice work!

and another idea if it all goes to hell: Weld Nuts

http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=71tcx4

Just drill out the original bolt/nut, insert this into the hole and weld it in place.

Hi Jon, it was nice speaking to you on the phone today.

Regarding the discussion we had about early to late cam swaps here is the best thread I've found on the subject:

http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38117

I don't know anyone over at that forum, this was one of my first posts so I take the info with a grain of salt but, they seem to know what they are talking about. Plus, there are pic's of the early and later cams.

I sent you a PM with my E-mail address in the event that your files show contrary information in regards to using a later Opti in place of the earlier unit.

As mentioned I do have a later timing cover. I would not be interested in pulling the cam though, Unfortunately I do not have the time.

Thanks again Jon,

Bill thanks for the info - would a new cap/rotor come with the O-ring?

Can any Opti use either the round or square O-ring or are there differences between an early or later MSD Opti?

MDS will sell parts directly to a customer? If so I'll order a cap/rotor and pick up a square seal directly from MSD if they do not come with the cap.

thanks again for the info Bill,

Brian

Thank Jon PM sent!

Another question for those running MSD - did you remove the cap and red Locktite the retaining screws? I've read quite a few stories of screws backing out of the MSD unit. I wonder if they have rectified this problem as well?

Thanks!

Wow Bill that post inspires confidence in the MSD unit!

I'm going to keep searching tonight and order tomorrow but I have been leaning towards the MSD unit. I've never purchased a MSD product but, the fact that they have publicly admitted they had issues with their early design and have since rectified the problem is refreshing. Most companies these days would probably ignore it, some would quietly fix the issue without ever admitting there was an issue, and few would come out and publicly their product had issues at all.

I've searched extensively and been reading many stories about Dynaspark. Apparently as Bogus mentioned the company was sold and product quality and customer support has suffered. For the price they command I would not expect to read anything but the occasional issue which can pop up with any product. And then I would expect to hear of prompt reply's and replacement which is not the case.

that is one additional plus for MSD - I've heard nothing but great things about their customer service in the event of an issue.

Thanks for the replies so far. Keep them coming!

Fellow Guru's, my '93 has 98k on her and I have use of a friend for a few weeks so, I decided to do a little preventative maintenance. I don't think my car has ever had a tune up so, I replaced the filters, fluids, plugs, wires, and decided while I have it in the air and apart i'd change the opti.

I was originally going to go with a Delteq unit (I bought one actually) but, I really want to keep my car stock looking under the hood so dizzy-less ignition systems are out.

I removed original Opti today and cleaned up the front of the engine. Much to my surprise the Opti looks to be in great shape - no sign of any water or moisture ever getting in. Bearings seem tight. Must have got a good one!

So, I have a few options:

Stock Opti - I would do this in a heartbeat but, mine is non-vented. That's my only concern with a factory original piece.

MSD - these seem to get mixed reviews. Worth the money? I *heard* MSD admitted that there were issues with early units but this was apparently cleared up by '08ish?

Dynaspark - now we're getting up in price. Are they really worth the money?

I like the idea of a vented Opti. I am not going to swap my cam at this point so, no update to a later unit for now.

I'd love to hear some opinions.

Thanks,

Brian

Well I replaced my LT1 plug wires today. From all I've heard over the years I figured I was in for a battle. MUCH to my surprise it was an easy job. I've read it all - remove the serp belt, remove the A/C compressor, remove the alternator, remove the tensioner, etc. I removed none of that. Here's how I did it:

I jacked up the front of the car (put it up on stands of course)

Removed the front left (drivers side) wheel

Removed the Front left center wheel well guard (the section of wheel well above the A arm)

Remove the ASR pump from bracket, move it aside (it will rest nicely on top of the ECU, all cables attached).

That's all I removed/moved on my stock '93 LT1.

Remove the wires one by one. The drivers side is the more difficult side to access but it's not that bad with the above mentioned parts moved/removed.

NOTE: Remove the wires ONE BY ONE! Otherwise you will be sorry as they are routed in specific fashion to avoid the wires touching each other which is never advisable.

From under the car, from behind the subframe, you can see/access the wires on the drivers side of the optispark. It may help to twist as you pull the wire off the Opti. Replacing them one at a time pull one wire off the opti, then go back up to the wheel well and pull the wire through the small hole between the accessory mounting bracket. Remove the wire from the looms leading to it's corresponding spark plug.

Match the old wire to the closest wire in length in your new wire set. If the old wire had wire protectors on them remove them from the old wire and place them on the new wire.

From above the car feed the Opti connector end of the wire back through the engine accessory bracket hole. Looking from the front of the engine as you feed it down you can get it close to the Opti terminal. Get under the car and connect the new wire to the Opti in the same manner as you removed the old wire. Once the wire boot is started over the Opti terminal it helps to twist the wire as you push it on the Opti. You will feel a firm "click" as it engages the Opti.

From above, route the wire to it's spark plug securing it in the factory looms.

Repeat this procedure for the remaining 3 wires.

The passenger side doesn't really warrant instruction. The Opti ends, retaining looms and plugs are all readily accessible without removing anything. Just remember to replace one wire at a time.

It really was not a bad job at all. Don't believe the Hype!

Quote:

For me it's Vodka and a splash of Kahlua on the weekends!

I drink milk with dinner or in the evening at home but most of the time I drink seltzer water. I'll occasionally have a fountain sods on a weekend.

I was weened on Seltzer Water - it's a great alternative to soda. I prefer Polar brand:

http://www.polarbev.com/Default.aspx?tabid=59

Polar has 13 different flavors. The most common are Lime, Lemon and Black Cherry around here. I may special order some other flavors from the local supermarket in bulk. It's nice and light in your stomach but each flavor is definitely distinct. It's great after a workout or on a hot day as it does not fill you up like soda. As someone mentioned soda is like drinking syrup to me.

I don't like regular water either.

Quote:

That is great advice. I had my license and been riding on the street on/off for 10 years and dirt for about 20 years when I took a MSF course with my wife as she wanted her license.

We had a good time taking the course together (more than half the group were women so, my wife did not feel out of place).

When I was done I wished I had taken the course as soon as I started riding on the street. I realized on more than a few close calls over the years I was not "good", just lucky.

You will have a blast this summer - there is no experience like a summer day on a bike!

Yep thought about that too - could be a wire got shorted when I pulled the manifolds/laid the wires back. I believe they may well be original wires w/100K on them.

I've been back/fourth over changing out my opti, or installing the delteq unit I bought. I had the delteq installed on the car this weekend and it tested as working fine but, I bought the wrong plug wire ends for the delteq coil packs! (my plan was to make my own plug wires) so, it's running off the original opti again for the time being.

Well thanks for the tips - I tried disconnecting/plugging the EGR and associated lines but, no dice. Still skips/pops.

Tomorrow I'll pull the plugs. That should tell the tale.

Could I get away with disconnecting the vacuum line to the EGR valve and blocking it off at the EGR valve and at the manifold or, should I remove the EGR valve entirely and install a blockoff plate?

I'm afraid I'm going to need to remove the manifolds again to get the plugs out to re install the EGR pipes. They are really seized in there. As I have plenty of other projects lined up that take precedence I will probably be running without EGR for a few months. This sucks as the LT1 is a pretty high compression engine and I'm sure benefits from EGR in the form or reduced detonation.

Quote:

Nope - and I was thinking about this last night. I've removed the EGR pipes but, have done nothing with the EGR valve itself. Perhaps this is my issue?

I forgot to mention - from what I could tell the miss seemed to be coming from the rear right area of the engine.

Thanks Andy. I would not have removed it if the damn pipe would not have cracked/broke. That, plus it's been on my friends lift all week so I really wanted to get it out of there tonight. Other than this now and a claw intake the former owner put it the car is 100% stock under the hood.

My car does have popping out the exhaust when decelerating, especially from higher RPM's. It actually sounds good and does not bother me. I know it's normal and not an issue. This is not that sound.

Guess I'll dig deeper tomorrow.
Welds on the manifold caps are very solid.

Hello guru's a question about the EGR System on my '93.

Since I bought my '93 the 2nd gear syncro was bad. This past week I finally swapped out the 6 speed with another unit. Unfortunately while removing the exhaust the studs on the manifolds snapped off so I had to remove the exhaust manifolds to extract the studs. While trying to remove the EGR pipe the pipe cracked so, as a temporary fix I cut the EGR pipes flush with their retaining nuts and welded the nuts solid. I then made a block off plate for the port in the back of the intake manifold (where the pipe that connects to the right side exhaust manifold connects to the back of the intake).

So I got the car finished up tonight and took it down the street. It started and ran great, no check engine light at all.

It now seems to have a backfire at higher RPM's, and sometimes when blipping the throttle sharply.

The engine was pretty cold, I went no further than a mile at the most.

I did not have a chance to look the car over tonight as I had to get going but I want a solid plan of attack for tomorrow.

My first thought is that a plug wire is crossed/not installed all the way. If this is not the case could removing the EGR pipes cause this backfiring? I didn't think so as others remove their stock manifolds in place of headers etc.

Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated thank you.

Looks GREAT Andy! Great price too!

Quote:

I actually prefer the smaller size of the Eris which I expected to be the biggest difference between the two. The Eris runs Android 1.5 where the Droid runs 2.1. The difference between the two OS's was the biggest factor to me. I didn't expect the two OS's to be that different but they seemed like two completely different phones.

We were near the Verizon store last weekend so we checked out some phones. I was blown away with the Motorola Droid - I had read a lot of reviews and many prefer the HTC Eris over the Motorola Droid but after playing with them side by side the Droid was amazing - I didn't think I would be nearly as impressed as I was. I was set on the Eris but, if I had to choose today it would definitely be the Droid.

The leaps in technology with every subsequent generation of phone is nothing short of amazing.

The wife and I can get new phones from Verizon the 23rd of this month (we're on the two year contract deal). There are two new phones rumured to be out any time for Verizon - the HTC Incredible and the HTC Nexus 1. Both feature Android 2.1, OLED screens and 1 Ghz CPU's (although they have the same CPU the Incredible will be clocked a bit slower at 700/800mhz).

I'm thinking I'll pick up whichever one hit's the store first. Rumor is both the Motorola Droid and HTC Eris are to be discontinued shortly.

Who knows for sure though.

I know, I know, my wife got me hooked on Fishville. I got to wondering if anyone here plays?