Hello all,

Following Casey's advice, I sent away for the Datamaster. I got it from TTS Power Sytems through Andrew Mattei at AKM Electronics which went very smoothly. Thanks, Casey.

All I have to do now is figure out what the heck I am looking at.

One question right up front is that I got an Error Code 32, related to the EGR system. I looked that up in the Service Manual and trouble shooting it involves an array of tests using a scanner and vacuum guage, neither of which I have. I am at a bit of a loss knowing where to start.

The car is running fine and I don't think I would have known about this except for running the Datamaster. I guess I could remove the plenum and start replacing parts.

Do any of you learned gentlemen have any suggestions for the novice? If I have posted this in the wrong area, please forgive me and let me know where it should go.

Thanks,
BigT

I had a simular problem several years ago. Got that dreaded
code, on my 96'(OBD11). I cleared the code several times and it kept comming back. Purchased a EGR valve from Summit Racing for $49.95 and the problem was resolved.

Funny thing, I was taking my car to a dealer yesterday and the SES came on. The dealer is about 35 miles from me, I went 30 miles before it came on. Car ran good, but didn't want to drive into the dealer with it on.
Came home... code 32!
I can't help you much on diagnosing, but I can tell you that it's not a big problem. I was running the car a little hard, some ricers were annoying me. So, when the car runs hard like that, it will call for the egr to open to cool the combustion. Some people block off the egr when doing an intake mod on L98s. You can run without the egr, I don't think it's a big deal.
I've replaced the egr temp sensor, now I'm going to fix this.
Always something with these cars.

Pop the hood and look at the underside of the drivers side of the throttle body. Is the vacuum line there disconnected?

I think 32 means the EGR temp switch isn't being tripped, so it thinks the EGR isn't opening and allowing hot exhaust through it. A bad connection at the temp switch or a failed EGR diaphram or lack of vaccum to the EGR should all cause it. I don't have my book on me to verify.

Low backpressure can also throw a code, the EGR requires backpressure to bleed off its vacuum otherwise it will never close during idle.

Thanks, Master. Am I correct that the plenum has to come off to replace the EGR valve? If so, how big a deal is it to take it off. I guess there will be gaskets to replace as well.

I am having a similar problem. The Service Engine Soon light will come on after a long period of time running at cruising speed, and then go off when the car is stopped and started again. It is running fine and I wouldn't have known about it if I hadn't hooked up the Datamaster. I'm hoping I can run it like this and address this in the winter.

And, by the way, thanks, Senior

Thanks, Moderator, I will try those suggestions and let you know how I make out.

I fought code 32 on my 91 L98 for over a year. I checked the valve, had a member send me a solinoid (since no one makes them anymore), ECM vacuum lines, electrical, and finally discovered the problem by accident (isn't that how it usually goes)
The heat tube from exhaust to intake manifold gasket at the manifold had blown out the side. When the valve opened, it was sucking to much "fresh" air and tripped the sensors . . "check engine" light. Replaced the gasket and no more code 32.
That's not to say it the challenge your having, but $3.00 worth of gaskets and 15 minutes isn't throwing money at it, (consider it a maintainence thing) and it just might work!

Good Luck
Subman

got the same code 32. i would drive for about 40 miles at 70 mph and the ses light would come on.i replaced the egr switch
a 22.00 part but was a pain in the rear hooking it to the connector behind the distributor. no more ses light for me

Quote:

YUP.

Vacuum leaks will cause a false 32 code.

Brick on pedal, block TB arm, anything to get a steady idle. Spray starting fluid little by little everywhere around the intake, evap cannisted, brake booster, cruise vacuum reservoir, everywhere. Get an rpm surge you got leak.

If the only leak is in the EGR vacuum route, you have to do the vacuum pump test, or activate the EGR / evap cannister purge (same thing on TPI), and then spray again on that line.

Don't buy parts blindly.

Program it out.

Since you have a datamaster, you can disregard this. But there is the paperclip method of detecting SES light codes on the ALDL port.