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This is the manual transmission from 1984-1988.

It’s a Borg-Warner Super T-10 with a planetary overdrive attached to the tail shaft housing.
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   All Posts (JonnyAngle)


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Re: Cam quest
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What I want to get out of cam quest is to see how steep the torque curve drops off with different cams. It is more of a learning experience for me. Once it is time to pull the trigger I will seek the advice of the gurus and compare it to my findings.

Posted on: 2009/11/30 22:25
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Cam quest
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I'm working on camquest by comp cams to play around with to see what kind of cam to possibly look into. I have an 86 with the cast iron heads and an lt1 intake. The only questions that I have is what is the total induction airflow that I have? Or how do I find out?

Posted on: 2009/11/29 19:04
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Re: Timing on the '86
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Thanks, Pacer. I'll have to check it out.

Posted on: 2009/11/26 1:57
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Re: Timing on the '86
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Yes, it is the stock balancer. I think going by earis going to be the best bet for me. Wife will be happier that I don't need to buy MY OWN timing light. win, win.

Posted on: 2009/11/25 4:41
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Timing on the '86
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I just put the lt1 intake on my '86 l98. Everything has been re-assempld but I have a question on the timing.

I set the timing by ear at first(before I had a timing light.) When I put the light on what I thought was optimal, it was at 8-10 degrees advanced. The stock setting is 6.

I set the timing to 6 degrees and it just didn't seem to run as well.

If I advance it back to 8 degrees am I going to get burn spots on my pistons or any other ill effects?

Posted on: 2009/11/18 2:45
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Re: fuel rail connections
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Thanks dudes!

Posted on: 2009/9/22 16:30
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Re: fuel rail connections
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Quote:

vetteoz wrote:
How are you doing lines? New braided line all the way down to the filter / return line coupling?
If so you need Metric O ring to AN adapters to mate to the stock fittings


I am making lines that connect the fuel rail to the steel lines in between the throttle body and ac. I have 6AN connections, but don't know what size adapter will screw into the stock lines.

Posted on: 2009/9/21 23:56
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fuel rail connections
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I'm double checking with the geniuses before I order the adapters for my fuel lines...


I have an early 86 and am converting to an lt1 intake. The fuel line connections are 3/8" and 5/16" on the stock hard lines, correct? I looked in the FSM and Haynes but they weren't very specific.


Thanks in advance!

Posted on: 2009/9/21 18:18
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Re: Gen I Lt1 conversion Questions
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1. So I need to make the u turn?
2. How do I identify the pressure line?
3. I think it's called the MAT sensor. MAM has the kit to move it to the air box for $50 or so. Yes there is a single wire connected to it. It looks kinda like an o2 sensor.
4. mmk

Posted on: 2009/9/7 14:27
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Gen I Lt1 conversion Questions
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Howdy y'all! I'm convertine my early '86 to and LT1 intake but have a few questions...

1. On the LT1 manifold, there is a vacuum hose that does a "U turn" on the drivers side. What is the point of that and can I just cap those plugs?

2. When hooking up the fuel lines, how do I know which line is the sending and which is the return line? I am referring to when I hook up the fuel rail, which line gets the FPR and which one doesn't?

3. The TPI has a sensor near the brake booster vacuum connection, but there seems to not be one on the LT1, can I just delete the sensor or do I have to buy the relocating kit?

4. I am interested in writing a tech article on how to install an aftermarket alarm with keyless entry. What do I have to do to get it up here?

Thanks,
Jack

Posted on: 2009/9/7 13:12
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Re: Firefox??
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I use FF and can see everything. I'm on XP though.

Posted on: 2009/7/27 21:39
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how to add ATF
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I just cheked my ATF, and the dipstick says I'm 1qt low. But where do I pour it in? .86 automatic
Thanks,
Jack

Posted on: 2009/7/18 17:43
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Re: Am I knocking?
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between 32 and 40 psi

Posted on: 2009/7/9 16:59
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Am I knocking?
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I've got an early '86...

When I let the vehicle idle, whether at a stop light or in the garage, after a good 30-45 seconds I get this noise. It sounds as though the rocker arms are making this noise. The noise only comes from the drivers side. It sounds about the same frequency as a machine gun doing blasts. Is my engine knocking? The rpms dip about 1000 rpms when the noise happens and it sounds like the engine is bogging.

Thanks,
Jack

Posted on: 2009/7/9 1:34
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Re: All 4 U Joints?
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Quote:

jhammons01 wrote:
Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
I recommend ujoints with zerks for anyone who doesn't race the car or have added HP.

How bout those that just go to Kragen and buy what they have?


...or NAPA!

Posted on: 2009/6/20 17:53
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Re: All 4 U Joints?
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what kind of grease do you put in the zerk? The ones I ordered came with the zerks and are not greased at first glance.

Posted on: 2009/6/20 2:53
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All 4 U Joints?
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I've got a bad u joint in the rear, so I'm going to replace it. Am I supposed to replace all 4 at the same time, or is that not necessary?

Posted on: 2009/6/16 18:45
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Re: BBK intake?
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Posted on: 2009/5/5 3:24
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BBK intake?
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Anyone tried out the new BBK intake? I don't think the price seems THAT out of line when ou look at the cost of some of the other intakes. Does the stock fuel rail and FPR work with it? Is it even worth checking out?

Posted on: 2009/5/4 21:50
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Re: Lipstick on a pig.
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Dumb question:

How do you add oil to your engine if your valve covers don't have an oil cap hole?

Posted on: 2009/5/4 1:33
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Re: Starting issue once again......LONG
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Do you have an aftermarket remote start or alarm?

Posted on: 2009/4/24 3:37
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Re: The old 3.73 vs 3.53 debate
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Quote:

Josh wrote:
The optimum gear, IMO, is what makes the car the most fun for the owner/driver. If ET is what you are after, then math should be able to dictate what gear is optimum. I had more fun with the 4.09 gear than I would have with the optimum gear for drag racing, so that was probably the optimum gear for me. Your results may vary.

Good luck man, let us know what you decide to do.


I'll let you know. I am looking for the fun factor, but my car is an auto, so it's not pure apples to apples. I'm leaning towards the 3.73s. I'd say I'm a little more hillbilly than I am an engineer.

Posted on: 2009/4/22 1:02
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Re: The old 3.73 vs 3.53 debate
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Quote:

anesthes wrote:
Gears should match the tire size + camshaft. There is no debate.

For a street car that means keeping it in the power band for passing and acceleration, for a track car that means crossing the finish line in your 1:1 gear right below redline.

http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/gear.html

A 3.07, with 26" tires crossing the finish line in your 1:1 gear at 4500rpm (redline) would be going 113mph.. No stock L98 does 113mph at the track, so saying 3.07 is a perfect ratio for 1/4 mile in a stock L98 doesn't make any sense. The math doesn't lie.

Most L98s run somewhere between 95-98 mph, so a 3.45/3.54 gear ratio should have you cross the finish right about where it needs to be, and it should provide the best 60' and ET.

The 3.73, I think may run out of steam up top with a stock cam, I think you'll see around 93mph at redline which tells me it's too steep. A 3.73 would be PERFECT with a short duration (6,000 RPM shift) camshaft and a good intake like a miniram. That's an instant 125mph car, mid 11s.

-- Joe



FWIW I've got 275/40/17s which are about 24.75"

Posted on: 2009/4/21 17:16
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Re: The old 3.73 vs 3.53 debate
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CC: So If I'm on the freeway and I hit the gas with 3.73s, is it going to feel like I'm driving a golf cart? How much better would the 3.53s be in that same scenario?

Posted on: 2009/4/20 21:31
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Re: The old 3.73 vs 3.53 debate
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I would love to put a cam and some new heads in the '86, but realistically I most likely never will. So as far as the higher revs it doesn't sound like theres that much difference between the 3.53s and 3.73s.

Posted on: 2009/4/20 12:42
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The old 3.73 vs 3.53 debate
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My car:
86 auto
stock 3.07s
stock tranny and stall
LTs and true dual exhaust are the only mods.

I cannot decide between 3.73s and 3.53 for my rear end D36.

What I need to know:
When I change my gear ratio, how much more power will the 3.73s provide over the 3.53s, and how much more fuel efficient are the 3.53s over the 3.73s?

Obviously everyone's results will vary, but I need a starting point.

Thanks,
Jack

I should add that it is a daily driver, but not my only means of transportation. If I cant drive it in the rain I'll survive. I do some highway driving, but mostly in the city.

Posted on: 2009/4/18 22:53
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Re: Fuel Pressure gauge question
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Quote:

vetteoz wrote:
Quote:

JonnyAngle wrote:
That makes sense, but how do you get the sensor to fit? I don't have nearly enough clearance. FWIW I have an '86, so yours may be different.

Easy
Schrader is -4AN
Use a -4AN M/F inline gauge adapter with a 1/8 NPT port and use a -4 cap to plug the open end.
http://store.summitracing.com/largeim ... Caps&img=rus-670290_w.jpg

Puts sender unit at 90 degrees to rail and because cap turns can be fitted or removed without taking plenum off

Russell # 670290 or similar from other suppliers


Now we're cooking with gas! Thanks All!

Posted on: 2009/4/18 14:25
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Re: Fuel Pressure gauge question
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That makes sense, but how do you get the sensor to fit? I don't have nearly enough clearance. FWIW I have an '86, so yours may be different.

Posted on: 2009/4/18 2:02
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Fuel Pressure gauge question
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For the dudes and dudettes that have electronic fuel pressure gauges, this question is for you...

Where in Tar Nation do you find the hardware to connect the fuel pressure senser to the schraeder valve? Or how else do you hook the sensor up?

I've looked at all types of fittings and am still not getting anywhere.

Thanks,
Jack

Posted on: 2009/4/17 20:51
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Re: dino to synthetic
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TO SUM IT ALL UP......

1. The engine will be cleaner, but not necessarily lubricate any better.

2. No difference in driveability or performance.

3. Longer change intervals.

4. Car may leak afterwards.


3 sounds really nice, but 4 kinda doesn't get me excited. So I'm basically not seeing any benefit to switching unless someone really says otherwise. Again, '86 with 93k. I'm going to run this thing into the ground, so I'm concerned with longetivity of the engine life.

Posted on: 2009/3/30 17:10
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Re: Vanity plate ideas
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GLDSHWR
MUSTARD
YELOSNO

Probabally won't use these, but might give you an idea.

Posted on: 2009/3/27 15:49
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Re: Anyone have an after market shift knob they love?
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http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v10 ... view¤t=DSCF2480.jpg

It's a little dark, but you can't go wrong with the .44 revolver.

Posted on: 2009/3/24 21:25
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dino to synthetic
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Hi folks, I've got a question. What is the real benefit to changing my oil to synthetic. My buddies say that I HAVE to do it because the cur runs "so much better." So what does changing over eally do?

86 coupe, cast heads 93k miles.
Thanks,
Jack

Posted on: 2009/3/24 16:57
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Re: Tackiest thing you have seen on a vette?
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Quote:

pappyfreebird wrote:
fug i gotchya all beat,,,but right now i cant find the pic of me sittin on front fendar,,,oooo hey were do git me sum vet clothes..i have racin striped boxers awready,,, do that count!!! wahahahahaha


Racing stripes are different than skid-marks, Pappy!

Posted on: 2008/11/18 4:23
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Re: shorty headers for L98s
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That does seem hefty.

Posted on: 2008/10/17 17:33
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Re: shorty headers for L98s
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http://store.summitracing.com/partdet ... 140+4294925022+4294918680

It says to add a "0" to the front of the part number when ordering. It's for a camaro, but I'm sure if you contact hooker, they will make exactly what you want.

Posted on: 2008/10/17 1:25
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Re: It Only Takes A Second
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it's from meet joe black. That's brad pitts character.

Posted on: 2008/10/2 20:25
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Re: Gaguge Piller Installation
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I've had a voltmeter, bt now I"m fp all the way!

Posted on: 2008/9/19 20:50
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Re: Gaguge Piller Installation
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
Quote:

c4-zo7-91 wrote:
hi guys,
sorry for butting in on your thread but i was
just wandering how much are the electrical fuel preasure guages ??
and where and what brand is the cheapest to buy ??
iv seen them sell for around $ 200,thats alot of money.
any ideas guys please ??
cheers
glen


have you checked with www.summitracing.com? I am sure they would export.


Check ebay or www.glowshiftdirect.com

Posted on: 2008/9/18 16:22
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Re: Hot Headers! Is this normal?
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Do they have purpleish rust on the outside? I have a handful of codes right now: egr, lean, est. I've never looked at them in the dark, but I think that's why I'm getting the purpleish rust color on my headers. However, after 6 months, the purple has not spread at all or gotten any bigger.

soooooooooo...

Based on my 60% confidence level, I think it is normal and will stop after time.

EDIT: Saw you post on "the other site," and I've got $100 bucks on 2 "check your FSM" and one "if you use the search function..."

Posted on: 2008/9/13 3:48
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Re: Tire question
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you'll be fine with 1 new tire IMO if it's a daily driver. It's not uncommon to do 2 tires though.

Posted on: 2008/9/10 17:27
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Re: Say I want 47psi...
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
What do you need 47 psi for? Are you testing something or is it for mods?

Matthew


according to tpis, that's what i should run at. (back of package on adjustable fuel pressure reg).

Headers, and basically straight pipes are my performance mods.

Posted on: 2008/9/10 0:43
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Say I want 47psi...
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...of boost that is. No, just kidding. Say I want 47 psi for my fuel pressure...

When testing it:
Do I have the FPR hose disconnected or connected?
Do I have the car idling, or just in the run position?
How long after I kill the motor should it hold this pressure?

Thanks in advance.

Posted on: 2008/9/9 20:41
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Re: Is replacing the heater core hard?
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I replaced mine this summer, thinking it was going to be this huge deflowering for me. When I was done I thought, "that wasn't too bad." Even for a first timer it wouldn't be too bad, as opposed to replacing a cam, tranny work, etc.

Posted on: 2008/9/9 15:28
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Re: Is replacing the heater core hard?
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Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
Well, if I had someone tell me they'd do it for $180 plus parts, I might let them do it. But since I think wrenching is therapeutic and I own a later C4 I'd still probably do it myself.


I agree

Posted on: 2008/9/8 18:23
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Is replacing the heater core hard?
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When I see things like this: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=2127260

I wonder if I am God's gift to mechanics or just not a complainer. I don't think doing the heater core is that "hard," it just takes time. Overall it's a learning experience on how to remove a seat and pieces of the dash! Anyone else agree with me?

Posted on: 2008/9/8 17:48
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Re: Miniram Question.....
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You can tap in one of them from the throttle body if it has the extra port on it. I don't have a MR, but that's what came to my mind.

Posted on: 2008/8/25 21:03
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Re: what mods need to be done?
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There's an air pump delete bracket/ pulley out there for a cool $120, or check for a used one on ebay.

MAF should be fine.

EGR: take it or leave it. The EGR system is a mess. It seems as though GM made it very hard to delete (for me at least) with all of the vacuum hoses and sensors all over the place. Just be sure you have vacuum where you still need it i.e. the Fuel Pressure Regulator, etc.

I would recommend a true dual setup for your exhaust. I like it, others hate it.

Posted on: 2008/8/19 19:57
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Re: EGR PROBLEM
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Since you have a datamaster, you can disregard this. But there is the paperclip method of detecting SES light codes on the ALDL port.

Posted on: 2008/8/19 16:25
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Re: HP estimate
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Yeah, I just want to go $1500 per year on it. I want to stay fuel injected. Getting the plenum ported, and bigger runners and porting the manifold doesn't seem to have as much of an increase for the little extra scratch it would cost to just buy a new intake. Now that I think about it, the intake may be more beneficial to do first. The cam, heads, and TC in a year or 2 and do those 3 at once. Finally, 3.57 in the rear end and keep the D36.

Posted on: 2008/8/19 16:05
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