hi guys,
just wandering your ideas/thoughts on oils for breaking in new engine??
i also heard that you can run new engines in on Diesel loil ,as it contains more zinc yeah??
can i run good qulity synthetic oil from day one at all??
if not why please ??
what is the procedure to run in a new engine any way such as oil change mile times,rev range e.c.t ??
also,any one heard of any good/ bad reports on royal purple synthetic oil at all ??
and is 5/30 or 10/30 the better weight oil to use ??
hope to hear lots of thoughts!!!
thanks guys
cheers
glen

Seen a lot of guys blame Rotella oil on cat failure due to some additive in the diesel oilthe cas dont like. No hard facts to back that up though.

388 with roller cam?

Youll get different opinions but personally Id toss some synthetic in it right out the gate. Dont go too heavy on the weight. If it makes you feel better use some cheap dino oil on your initial runin then dump it, change filters andput the good stuff in.

Ive run engines on either/or including cheapie recylced oil and they all seemed to last Ok. Punt.

I always use rotella for break in, and its indeed for the zinc, ZDDP the zinc additive has been removed alot in car oils because if the car burns oil, then the zinc can hurt the cats.

Break in with diesel, after about 50-100 change it

hi guys,
how are ya!!
ok thanks for your replies and advise.
yep it is a 388 with roller cam.
so give diesel oil a try for 50-100 miles and then go over syn thetic oil then i will.
now r.e royal purple syn oil,any good you reackon ??
i thought i would run 10w40 weight oil .
cheers
glen

The theory is the synthetic oil is TOO slippery;
the rings don't bed in.
I run mine for about 50 miles , change to get rid of all the moly used for assembly and then again at 500.
FWIW ;
I ran my new engine twice around the block on Sat night.
Drove 50 miles to the track on Sunday morning and did 25 WOT passes.Run in fine!

hi rod,
thanks for your tip mate!!
cheers
glen

Have you guys ever experimented with 4-stroke motorcycle oil?

Do you know anything about it's wear additives?

On another note, lots of bikers are putting Rotella in those, but I think that's mainly because they're all cheapasses.

From Mobil.com

So how is Mobil 1 for passenger cars different from Mobil 1 for motorcycles?

First, let's be clear about Mobil 1's overall benefits compared to those of conventional motor oils, whether for passenger cars or motorcycles:

Superior long-term engine protection.

Superior high-temperature stability.

Excellent low-temperature starting.

Outstanding engine performance.

Low volatility/low oil consumption

It's a little hard to generalize about the difference between Mobil 1 passenger-car motor oils and Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. That's because not all viscosities of Mobil 1 passenger-car oils have the same levels of zinc and phosphorus, and there are even greater differences among the three Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. In general, Mobil 1 motorcycle oils have:

Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils do not require friction modifiers for fuel economy and for better clutch friction less/no friction modifier is optimum. Motorcycle oils allow the use of higher levels of antiwear additives such as ZDDP (phosphorous).
(Updated December 2007)


What are the overall advantages of Mobil 1 motorcycle oils?

In addition to the overall benefits listed above – specifically, high-temperature stability and low volatility/low oil consumption – Mobil 1 synthetic motorcycle oils also offer superior anti-corrosion performance compared to conventional motor oil, which is important in many parts of the country where bikes may sit in garages for several months of the year.

Compared to conventional oils, Mobil 1 motorcycle oils provide superior wear and high-temperature protection, and promote engine cleanliness and lower oil consumption.

Once you get past these general advantages, you have to deal with each specific motorcycle oil one at a time to understand the benefits.


Okay. Let's start with Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40. What does it offer that Mobil 1 for cars does not?

Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 is designed for sport bikes. Most of these bikes have multi-cylinder/multi-valve engines and use a common sump, which means the engine oil lubricates the engine, transmission and wet clutch. So unlike Mobil 1 for cars, Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 has no friction modifiers, which could lead to clutch slippage.

The motorcycle oil also has more phosphorus/zinc for enhanced wear protection at high engine speeds and high loads.

In addition, Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 has a high performance dispersant/detergent technology for better high-temperature performance and engine cleanliness. Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 is also offered in a different viscosity grade than Mobil 1 for passenger cars. (Updated December 2007)


What about Mobil 1 V-Twin oil? How is that different from Mobil 1 for passenger cars?

Mobil 1 V-Twin oil is designed for air-cooled, large-displacement bikes. Because of their design, these engines can generate very high localized oil temperatures and high overall bulk-oil temperatures.

As you know, a typical air-cooled V-twin's rear cylinder gets a lot hotter than the front cylinder – it's a matter of airflow. When it's hot out and you're stuck in traffic, the oil temperature in your bike climbs rapidly. Above about 250°F, conventional motor oil is going to break down. Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic oil is good to above 300°F.

Like Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40, Mobil 1 V-Twin has high levels of phosphorus/zinc and the same high-temperature detergent technology for superior wear protection and engine cleanliness, even at elevated oil temperatures.

With Mobil 1 V-Twin oil, you can go the full length of the manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals with ease.



Why did you change the name of Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-4 to Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40? Is the product formulation different?

Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 was renamed because the product is known as Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 outside the US. Be assured that no changes to the Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 formulation occurred during this name change. Same great product, new name.


The owner's manual says I should change the oil every 5,000 miles or once a year. I change my oil every 2,500 miles or twice a year. So why do I need that kind of protection?

For peace of mind and added protection. You pay a lot for a bike these days, so why risk running your engine in ordinary oil? Just like Mobil 1 synthetic oil for cars, Mobil 1 synthetic motorcycle oil helps keep your engine clean – free from varnish and deposits – and smooth running mile after mile, no matter what conditions you ride in.

Mobil 1 benefits engine life and performance. In fact, the lubrication capability of Mobil 1 motorcycle oil helps maintain peak horsepower and acceleration throughout the life of your engine. And with Mobil 1 you can go the full 5,000 miles between oil changes.

So, if you want to ride your bike long and hard and not be concerned about the oil, choose Mobil 1 motorcycle oil.

Glen, on fresh motor builds, I run conventional oil, and then dump it after about 500 miles. It will also have several heat cycles on it as well. After draining the conventional oil, it gets synthetic.

hi jeff and fellas,
thanks for your replies and help r.e the oil talk.
cheers
glen