Let me first say I hate this stuff. I have my reasons.


Here's what Jon from FIC posted somewhere ....

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here is a few facts about e-10 you might find interesting.
Ethanol fuel handling and storage:

This was a real eye-opener for us. Trial and error revealed we had to do two things very differently when using ethanol/methanol fuels as compared to pure gasoline.

First, it will quickly absorb any available free-water from the bottom of a tank and even absorbs moisture (humidity) right out of the air in a very short period. (Called a wicking action) That can have an immediate effect (1-5 days) and result in a loss of 5-15 octane points evidenced by valve pinging. If not treated it will soon lead to fuel separation. (Stratifying) The water/ethanol-sludge then settles to the bottom of the tank and forms a milky mucous looking slime. To combat the problem we began mixing our fuels at the last moment before use and stored them in 99% airtight containers. (Some venting is absolutely necessary)

Second, we found ethanol and methanol has a very high detergent action (cleaning) that is many times more powerful than pure gasoline. Therefore it quickly removes varnish, scale and oxides from the walls and bottom of tanks. It accumulates in the fuel system in the form of slime and crud that starts clogging fuel filters, carburetors and injectors. Removing and cleaning our tanks helped, but occasionally we still experienced clogged filters and fuel pump failures. The problem continued to occasionally strand us on the roadside. We finally realized the problem was also caused by slightly contaminated gasoline purchased from stations while in route to races. That fuel usually would not immediately affect our filters. However when we blended ethanol/methanol it would quickly condense the contaminates (water & solids) into scum and slime that began clogging our filters again.

One more thing, we also found that ethanol will loosen small fragments and soften the inside layer of polyester fiberglass tanks. Our latest tests indicates a chemical reaction with epoxy resins that also produces a gummy contaminate. (Slower to appear but can totally clog and damage injectors)

USA Fuel Service recommends replacing all fiberglass tanks before using or storing ethanol fuels. Even metal or plastic tanks more than 1-year old should be cleaned to remove scale, varnish and oxides. If you don’t ethanol fuels will do it for you and clog filters and cause fuel pump and/or engine failure. Ethanol fuel users storing fuel more than 90 days should expect to have the tank and fuel cleaned at least annually. (Boats, RV’s, emergency generators, Etc) Ethanol fuels will absorb a significant amount of water right out of the air if stored 60 days or longer.

Wunnerful, we have a steady diet of that stuff here

When I was in Norman, Ok. last spring many of the gas stations advertised "no ethanol". I never did find the reason but the pricing was competitive. I wish I had that choice up here in ill.

E-10 is a good cleaner, but I always figured it would keep the injector system sparkling. I have used E10 in my autos and trucks for years and never had an issue. Some of that may be due to the fact that I start the vehicles out on it so there is not a lot of crud built up in the tanks.

It is also true that the alcohol absorbs water. 200 proof alcohol is anhydrous so it has an affinity for water. I have not had any problem with stratification mainly because we go through fuel so fast around here. Nothing sits for very long. I have been told that the water in fuel is chelated or absobed by the alcohol in the gasoline and dispersed throughout the tank. This puts the H2O in a dilute form that passed through the fuel system without the engine knowing the difference.

I am using a 93 octane E10 premium fuel in my Vette and so far it has not given me any problems. I was talking to a C5 owner the other day who was filling up and he was using the 89 octane E10 which I asked him how that worked since I thought you should use at least a 91 octane in his car. He said the car ran great with it and never has given him any problems. It is a lot cheaper but I want the best for my baby.

These are my own personall observations over a 20 year period since E10 and now E85 have been a staple of our fuel diet for a long time in Huskerland. My 95 Chevy pickup has never had anything else in it and has 215K on it with the same fuel pump. I have changed the fuel filter on occasion but do that as regular maintenance anyway. So far it has never left me stranded.

Now Soy biodeisel fuel is another matter. I have limped home twice after using it in my Duramax. It plugged my filters both times. When I have the flatbed 5th wheel loaded and I am creeping along at 15 to 20 mph while trying not to get run over due to the fuel, I decide I better not use it anymore.

We have the "winter blend" here, don't know how close it is to E10 but definately has ethanol in it.
5 years in the C4 w/o any problem.

My complaint is primarily with my boat. It doesn't get as much use and the filter and water issues are always a problem. I've had my carbs rebuilt twice and my tank siphoned several times due to contamination. My cars and trucks have run fine on it but as mentioned they were born with the stuff. Even the Porsches were delivered engine ready for E-10. E-10 has a NIAGRA FALLS effect on me every time I think of how much it has cost me.

Slowly I turn, inch by inch, step by step ...........

We've had this crap in FL as mandatory for all stations for about a year now.

Note, Ethanol is an octane booster, so they use cheaper fuels and the ethanol raises the octane to appropriate levels.

It eats seals, has on much of my power equipment.

Anything carburated runs like ass on it.

I've gotten a 3MPG drop in all my vehicles.

Back to back dyno proven drop of 8-10HP.

Along with it absorbing moisture, eating fiberglass tanks, and all the other hell it brings.

Also, it is added at the tank most of the time, making it very loosely regulated. People have tested gas right out of the pump that was supposed to have a "Maximum 10% ethanol" and found it to range between 4% and almost 60%.

I would like it if they would at LEAST make premium un-screwed with. All my vehicles would have it.

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I could live with that.

I have to say I was suprised when I saw they had added it to the premium fuel. I had been running 91 octane in the Vette when I went out to fuel up not to long ago and saw the 93 octane on the pump. High octane is good right?

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Not necessarily... I'd use whatever is recommended for your application. Too much octane can make the motor run as inefficient as too little. Octane is only an anti knock agent. Too much = bad, too little = bad.

I also do not like E-10. NASTY stuff. If you don't believe me, drain the tank on your lawn mower in a few months, fill it up with E10 and run it for about 5 minutes. Then store in a shed or a cool basement all winter. Good luck getting it to run well next season!! Thanks to Stable and Seafoam to stabilize the fuel!!!!

Lucky for me, there are a few places that I can get 93, E-0 around the area, but it is expensive.

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Agreed.
But, I've run 89 in my 92 for 5 years w/o a problem (and at high altitude), the ECM just kicks the timing back a tad.
I don't really care if I loose or gain 10 HP on the street.

The motorcycle guys bitch because it eats carb orings and fuel petcocks. Some bikes are supersensitive to bad fuel.

I think I will try a few tanks of 89 to see how it works for me. I was just going off of what Chevy was recommending for my engine. My Harley is fuel injected and the Motor co. has said that it is ok to run E10 which I have always done and never had a problem with it. Carbs are a different story especially the older ones. O rings seals and whatever else it will eat will give you fits.

I have heard the alcohol has a cooling effect on the intake and engine. Has anyone else heard that. I know that E85 is used for a racing fuel, but the car has to be set up for it.

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Yep, running too much or little (+- 5 points) octane usually will not hurt anything, the motor just isn't as efficient.

What is factory recommended octane for a stock L98, LT1, LT4, or LT5??

My 90 recommends Premium fuel which is usually 91 Octane. I just got my Car and Driver magazine and in their Backfires section someone asked if a Porsche that had a 93 octane requirement was using that when they did the tests. C & D answered that in California all they could get was 91 octane and ran all their car performance test on that. They realize that the spark will be more retarded and the power down but that is the fuel they are stuck with.

They go on to say that they ran a Bently Continental GTC Speed on 91 octane and ran 4.8 to 60 mph and 13.4 in the 1/4 mile. With 93 octane the same car ran 4.3 to 60 and 12.8 in the 1/4 mile with that fuel. From 13.4 to 12.8 is huge it think with only that as the difference.

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You have to read the owner's manual, it says more than the "preimum fuel recommended".
It just says lower octane will cause some performance loss (LT1).

Of course, all this is for everyday crusing, not applicable at the track.

Found this list of ethanol free stations.
http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=FL

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For the 1985 L98, it recommends 87 octane. I believe this changed when they upped the compression ratio.