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| tjpreul | My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Elite Guru
 
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I have been buiding a new engine for my '92 that I am putting a Procharger on. The old engine is out, and I have been looking it over to find out what was wrong. It is a mess. Around 1-2k there was a shake like a miss. Then it would run fine at high rpms. It is the stock motor with 144k, and I ran a 14.09 1/4mi. When I pulled the head off there are no cross hatch marks and the cylinder is a darker brown color. When the piston is down I can see the rings. I don't have a guage but it looks like it is arount .010 between the piston and wall. I will post pictures later.
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Posted on: 2011/11/8 21:01
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Here are the pictures of the cylinders. If I would of done a compression test it would of given me more answers, but then I would of wanted this engine out sooner.
Attach file:  DSC04464.JPG (298.42 KB) DSC04463.JPG (380.98 KB) DSC04459.JPG (285.71 KB) |
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Posted on: 2011/11/9 3:41
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| rklessdriver | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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It dosen't look terrible. Typical high mile engine.
It has had the heads off in it's life - as I see some blue imprint on the block deck surface from FelPro Head gaskets. Looks like you have a sold foundation for your Procharger build. Which blower are you planning on running? Any goals for power output or maybe hopeful 1/4 mile times? Will |
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Posted on: 2011/11/9 4:38
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_________________
1984 Corvette. 434 SBC with a Powerglide. Best pass - 8.48@160MPH 1.23 60ft on MT 275/60R15 Radials. 1972 Corvette. LS5 454 BBC with M20 4 speed. Best Pass - Doing good to just pass a gas station. |
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| bogus | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
 
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the piston looks ok. I was afraid, by your earlier comments, that the grooves had failed.
The cylinder is smooth... way too smooth. I had the oil pan off my 92 a couple of years ago, and I could clearly see xhatches on the cylinder walls. Very easily in fact. The head gasket wasn't compromised, that's good. Can't wait to see bearings... I wonder if they were beat up, too? |
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Posted on: 2011/11/9 4:40
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| flyboy | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Doesn't appear to be a ridge on the cylinder wall, just a glazed surface. Not bad for 144k miles, no?
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Posted on: 2011/11/9 13:47
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'91coupe, LT4Hotcam, some other stuff. If it's too loud, you're too old. "He works on old cars, then junks 'em" |
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| Durango_Boy | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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I agree with the above, with the exception of a smooth bore it doesn't look that bad.
For all readers, Tyler isn't rebuilding this block for his car...he has another block that is machined and ready for final assembly. I believe the long block is finished and he simply needs the goodies off the old engine...for the new engine. Tyler, from the cylinder wear, I think something else was the cause of the minor issues you were feeling. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/10 3:47
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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I'm using the P1SC. The D1SC was what I was planning, but there was a listing on ebay for a never installed kit that had the P1SC. It was bought for a '92 and came with everything still in the original packaging, paperwork and tuning software for half of retail.
There isn't a noticable lip at the top of the cylinder. All of the plugs read the same. There were no bent push rods, and the lifters looked good. Here are the pictures of the new stuff. Attach file: DSC04469.JPG (372.06 KB) DSC04470.JPG (346.72 KB) DSC04475.JPG (336.54 KB) |
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Posted on: 2011/11/10 13:24
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Here is what I a still working with before I can go on.
Attach file: DSC04477.JPG (398.41 KB) DSC04478.JPG (309.04 KB) |
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Posted on: 2011/11/10 13:27
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| bam | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Nice looking stuff. I can't believe how clean your piston tops are. Mine have lots more carbon and cooked oil. DSC04475.JPG I assume this pix is your new motor? What is in it? Love builds for the LT1, thanks for posting.
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Posted on: 2011/11/10 14:57
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Quote:
The built motor was carboned very bad when I took it apart. This one didn't burn/lose maybe a quart every 3k. I didn't get a picture before the pan or heads went on. It is a 350ci with 9.1:1cr. That has a Scat forged crank, H beam rods, 4 bolt splayed caps, Probe -14cc pistons, Comp cam 266 (p/n 07-304-8), LS7 lifters, Comp pro mag 1.6 ratio rockers, AFR 195 heads, Champ 8qt pan and a P1SC Procharger for 10-12 psi. A special thanks goes to Will (rklessdriver) for his feedback and answers and recommendations on the new engine. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/10 15:39
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| Durango_Boy | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Tyler, you didn't paint the new block before assembly?
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Posted on: 2011/11/10 17:06
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| rklessdriver | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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P1SC.... when we were talking earlier this year about the engine, for some reason I thought you were going to buy the PB600 toy blower kit..... I missed the orginal thread where you got the blower. It's great that you got a got good deal on the upgrade.
Congrats man! Gonna be a whole lot different than stock.... That thing is gonna roll @10psi. Now get that mess cleaned up so you can get that beast running! Will |
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Posted on: 2011/11/10 17:40
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_________________
1984 Corvette. 434 SBC with a Powerglide. Best pass - 8.48@160MPH 1.23 60ft on MT 275/60R15 Radials. 1972 Corvette. LS5 454 BBC with M20 4 speed. Best Pass - Doing good to just pass a gas station. |
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| bogus | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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sams club was selling a cheap pressure washer for $99.99. I got one and hooked up to simple green actually worked REALLY well on a dirty car!
I would think about it. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/10 18:11
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Quote:
I ran out of paint. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/10 19:41
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| X-FIRE | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Tyler your old engine looks pretty good for 144k miles. Good luck with the install of the new engine. Is Matt helping you out on the install? Later... Dale
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Posted on: 2011/11/11 1:27
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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A friend that has a powder coating shop offered their washbay, but I don't want to have to load the car. I tried some simple green tonight and it worked great. A plus to having an oil leak is that it wipes off easy. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/11 3:51
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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I removed the timing cover from my old engine tonight. The two oil plugs above the timing cover had small pinholes. Everything looks stock, but I didn't think these were used in '92. The block is the original. I checked the engine code.
I took the cam out of the old engine, and this is what I found. The lifters looked good. There were five with damage, but this was the worst. Attach file: DSC04522.JPG (188.61 KB) |
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Posted on: 2011/11/23 3:38
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| Durango_Boy | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Tyler it's hard to see from the image...is the cam lobe wiped or just scored?
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Posted on: 2011/11/23 15:17
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Its about a 1mm deep groove. I tried to get a cross picture, but it would not show. The other lobes only have knicks. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/23 15:44
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| rklessdriver | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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The LTX's do have the pin holes in the cam galley plugs.... they are to spray additional oil on to the upper cam and waterpump drive gears.
That lobe damage looks like a rod hit it honestly.... but without inspecting everything I couldn't say for sure. When a lifter goes bad and damages a cam - typically it eats a track in the whole lobe.... When a lobe is damaged from lifter bounce it's always on the closing side flank of the lobe. With that kind damage on the cam lobes, the lifters are suspect big time.... I would not reuse lifters from that engine in anything.... no matter how good they seemed. Will |
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Posted on: 2011/11/23 22:23
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1984 Corvette. 434 SBC with a Powerglide. Best pass - 8.48@160MPH 1.23 60ft on MT 275/60R15 Radials. 1972 Corvette. LS5 454 BBC with M20 4 speed. Best Pass - Doing good to just pass a gas station. |
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| Durango_Boy | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Agreed.
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Posted on: 2011/11/24 3:35
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Quote:
I thought the pin holes were a redesign around 94. I am not planning on using anything from this engine besides the block. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/24 4:39
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| bam | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Quote:
The stock cam from my LT1 build looks the same (see pix). How could it be that the lobe would hit a rod on a stock stroke motor? Interesting. My motor had 100x on it. Attach file: IMG_4221.JPG (39.23 KB) |
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Posted on: 2011/11/24 14:56
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| bam | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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"When a lobe is damaged from lifter bounce it's always on the closing side flank of the lobe." Not to hijack this thread but I have a question about this. The cam rotates clockwise when you stand in front of the engine and look at the cam, right? Then is this kind of wear on the right side of the lobes or the left? My hot cam that I took out of my recent LT1 cam swap (only 500 mi on the cam before the motor went bad) has a strange "dent" in each lobe. It is on the right side of each lobe when you look at the front of the cam. Is this the "lifter bounce" you speak of? Is a cam reusable when it shows this kind of wear? I really appreciate your feed back on this as I am wondering if I need to replace my almost new hot cam because of this or if it is ok to reuse. I know I need new lifters. Here are some pix of the wear. Thanks for letting me post this in your thread. Attach file: IMG_4224.JPG (31.36 KB) IMG_4223.JPG (38.71 KB) IMG_4222.JPG (37.16 KB) |
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Posted on: 2011/11/24 15:06
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| rklessdriver | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Bam
That mark is from the roller wheel on the lifter skidding across the cam lobe and yes that is on the closing ramp. Most likely it is from not enough valve spring pressure and/or a little too much RPM. As for if it's reuseable or not.... I can't tell from the pics.... it looks like a mild case - but at only 500 miles.... As for the lifters, look at the lifter roller wheels - the contact surface and see if they have similar scratches on them. Check to see that all the brgs roll free and smooth. Also check the lifter bodies around the pin and the skirt for cracks. Will |
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Posted on: 2011/11/24 17:35
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1984 Corvette. 434 SBC with a Powerglide. Best pass - 8.48@160MPH 1.23 60ft on MT 275/60R15 Radials. 1972 Corvette. LS5 454 BBC with M20 4 speed. Best Pass - Doing good to just pass a gas station. |
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| bam | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Will thanks, the lifters all look very good, the bearings all smooth, the roller surface nice and smooth too. The body of the lifters have scratches on them though. The "dents" in the cam are so small that when you run your finger over them it is impossible to feel them. I really hate to just toss that cam and spend 200 for another hot cam, I really like the hot cam, just right for what I wanted out of my motor, but better safe than sorry, I'd rather toss it than take a chance unless someone here can tell me different who really knows. Would more pix help?
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Posted on: 2011/11/26 23:08
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| rklessdriver | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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From what your saying - everything sounds OK.
I'd definatly recomend you check the valve springs and replace if weak. Will |
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Posted on: 2011/11/26 23:18
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1984 Corvette. 434 SBC with a Powerglide. Best pass - 8.48@160MPH 1.23 60ft on MT 275/60R15 Radials. 1972 Corvette. LS5 454 BBC with M20 4 speed. Best Pass - Doing good to just pass a gas station. |
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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From the front of the cam the closing ramp would be the left side. With the marks on the right. You might want to replace the lifters, as they may not be able to handle the spring load.
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Posted on: 2011/11/27 1:47
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Vegas wasn't built on winners. '92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96. Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC |
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| bam | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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I used LT4 springs, I know they are marginal at best with stock LT1 valves (heaver than LT4 valves). I think I was getting to valve/lifter float at 6x rpm plus. I am rebuilding my motor right now, new pistons, rings, bored .030, new lifters (probably GM LS6 type) and I am thinking of Trick Flow 185 heads. Any thoughts.
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Posted on: 2011/11/27 3:33
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| bam | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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tjpreul how is your build coming? Thanks for letting me post a couple of question here on your thread! Keep us up to date on your motor.
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Posted on: 2011/11/27 3:36
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Quote:
Good. I have been doing the modifications the kit requires while the engine is out. There are several cut here, drill there. Overall its not bad. The shipping weight of the box was 90lbs. Think of fitting 90lbs of material in the extra space under the C4 hood. Will is very knowlegable on setups. He was very helpful with all of the questions I had. Do you already have headers, or plan on putting them on. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/27 3:49
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| bam | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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I had already installed Exotic Muscle LT headers with the hot cam and 1.6rr's, it sure was fun to drive for those 500 or so miles. I think my real mistake was bumping the rev limit up to 6200 rpm. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/27 19:40
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| rklessdriver | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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I would not spend money on the TFS 185 head. For some reason OTB they just don't impress. There are a number of ported factory castings that are better HP producers. If you want the TFS casting buy the 195 with the 55cc chamber. On a 355 turing 6200RPM you'll be alot happier with the performance. Will |
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Posted on: 2011/11/27 22:08
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1984 Corvette. 434 SBC with a Powerglide. Best pass - 8.48@160MPH 1.23 60ft on MT 275/60R15 Radials. 1972 Corvette. LS5 454 BBC with M20 4 speed. Best Pass - Doing good to just pass a gas station. |
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| BrianCunningham | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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a hotcam isn't really what you want for a supercharger.
something with a lot of lift, but with more lobe separation. take a look here http://www.streetlethal.net/camdata/ |
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Posted on: 2011/11/27 23:57
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Polo Green 95 LT1 6-spd http://mysite.verizon.net/vzevcp74/ 383 LT1/Vortech Supercharger/AFR heads/Rod end suspension/Penske-Hardbar dual rate coilovers/Wilwood 6pot brakes NCCC Governor: http://BayStateCorvetteClub.com |
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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We have two builds going. Mine is the one with the supercharger going on. The cam I am using is the Comp 266 with 1.6rr. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/ca ... tails.aspx?csid=1101&sb=2 |
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Posted on: 2011/11/28 2:43
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| bam | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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tjpreul who did your machine work in Columbia, were you pretty satisfied with them? Did they also balance the engine? I notice you have the white gauges, how difficult was that to put in? Can you post a photo, I think the white gauges look really nice.
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Posted on: 2011/11/28 15:37
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Quote:
I had it done by Elson at Loop 70 Auto. I have known him for years. He is "old school" but will build what you want. However if you are on a timeline, you will not get one. He works on what he wants, when he wants. He had my block for 10 months. It was delayed because of the line bore. He did splayed caps, plateau honed (with torque plates) and assembly. The rotating assembly was bought and balanced from another company (I will have to look this up). I did not do the guages in my car, so I do not have any imput. I am not a fan of the orange. This was a huge selling point. The best way to compare is to find two cars on ebay. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/29 0:40
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Here are two listings to compare. It can add up since there are several components to change. Guages, a/c control, radio, seat switches and information center.
yellow: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-COU ... rucks&hash=item19cb2bbd1a White: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-C ... rucks&hash=item5ae3a9a1df |
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Posted on: 2011/11/29 5:00
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Vegas wasn't built on winners. '92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96. Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC |
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| bam | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Wow, 10 mo. and I thought the guy doing my block was slow (been wating 2 mo. now, we'll see if he can "beat" your record, haha) Thanks. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/29 14:00
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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He can get them done faster. I had a complete new motor built, so my car was still drivable. The line bore, and me not needing the motor were the main factors for the time.
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Posted on: 2011/11/29 14:20
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Vegas wasn't built on winners. '92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96. Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC |
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| Durango_Boy | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Quote:
There are two main machine shops that most locals use. Both have very good quality but have very different characteristics. J.D. Machine is typically a bit more expensive when compared to Loop 70 Auto, but they are much faster. I've enjoyed their 3 - 4 day turnaround on most of what I have them do. Again, quality isn't an issue at either shop...I think the cost difference is speed. I will usually call both depending on the project and check prices before I pick who to use. If it's a tight timeline, I use J.D. If I don't care how long it takes and the price is right I call Loop 70. Elson is also a much nicer fellow than the guys at J.D. They're always rushing to get their orders done quick so they're more short with you. Both are good places...I just let the situation dictate who I use. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/29 14:56
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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JD overcharges and are rude. |
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Posted on: 2011/11/29 18:36
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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The shortblock is in the car!! Now I just have to bolt everything back on.
I am using an ATI damper. It says to loosen the steering rack unless the engine is out of the car for room to install. My distributor is hardwired to the car (MSD). The problem is I cannot put the damper on until the distributor is on, but the distributor cannot go on until the motor is in the car. With this I cut my connections and will solder it back in. When I bolted it together I realized the damper is not up against the distributor like the stock one. I was worried I had the wrong hub. The ATI is an inch narrower, so you can actually remove the distributor without removing the damper. |
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Posted on: 2011/12/1 5:05
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Vegas wasn't built on winners. '92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96. Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC |
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| Durango_Boy | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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That's a handy design feature. Got some pics of the short block in the car?
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Posted on: 2011/12/1 12:28
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| bam | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Who is going to do your new tune?
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Posted on: 2011/12/1 14:53
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Quote:
The kit came with a piggy back system from Split Second. I have the software on my computer and it plugs into the box for tuning. This is another reason my build is so close to stock. |
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Posted on: 2011/12/1 16:17
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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My next question is what plug and gap should I run?
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Posted on: 2011/12/9 23:28
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_________________
Vegas wasn't built on winners. '92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96. Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC |
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| Durango_Boy | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Quote:
This does kind of depend on what plug manufacturer you want to use, but I'll use NGK as a good example because that's what I went with on my build. My 405 is kind of outside the box when it comes to the components so there wasn't any real way for anyone to say when I asked that same question. I knew I wanted NGK, but I had no clue what plug to buy or what gap to run them. So I called NGK's customer service line and they walked me through the whole process. First they ask about the project, specs and whatnot, and suggested the perfect plug for my application. From there they suggested gap, and even helped find me a dealer...in this case it was easy because Oreilly stocked the plugs they recommended. I would recommend you do something similar. Figure out what brand plugs you want to use, call them, and let them help you decide on the specific plug and gap. It really made things very easy for me. |
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Posted on: 2011/12/10 2:08
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| Andrew | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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2013 Memorial Day Car Show Winner!
 
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NGK TR55's will do just fine. If you need a little cooler, TR6. I'm not sure about gap because of the SC. Would the SC make a difference in gap specs?? Don't know...
I can't wait to see the car in motion! Should be a beast!! |
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Posted on: 2011/12/10 3:57
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2003 Atomic Orange Z06 Sold - 1996 Competition Yellow LT4 - DRM 383, NX N2O, Line Lock, LT Headers, 3" stainless exhaust, Power Effects, and many more mods SOLD 1996 Competition Yellow LT4 SOLD 1979 4 Speed with 383 |
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| tjpreul | Re: My LT1 rebuild | ||
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Elite Guru
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I've heard to stay away from platinum. I was thinking the TR55's or AC set at .035 gap. The set I bought this summer were TR55GP, so I cannot use them. The final parts were ordered today!! There will still be something. Its going smooth, the no time pressure is nice. |
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Posted on: 2011/12/10 4:10
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