bogus wrote:
it's amazing the improvements that can be made by improving oil flow.

I read years ago that Kyle Petty's NASCAR team (Felix Sebatis(sp) at the time) were building their engines with lower oil pressure. Instead of 100 psi at redline, more like 70.

So they fully optimised the oil paths... opened up return lines, cleaned up galleys and flow, put a pickup for return on the back of the galley... all sorts of tricks. And picked up 10 or 15hp!

Cool stuff!

TommyT-Bone wrote:

Pics could be a size issue. An easy way to load pics is through photobucket.com. Upload to photobucket and transfer from there to your post. Hope this helps.

BrianCunningham wrote:
For the AFR heads you need to machine the passage for the oil return

rklessdriver wrote:
You would be amazed at how little oil pressure we run in real racing engines today. Some of that stuff won't make it on a street car thou....

All the little oiling system mods that reduce flow restriction, increase return to the pan and cut down on windage, ect - I spend the time to do them on every engine I build. A few hours with the grinder, just makes for a better engine.

As for oil pressure itself, too much eats alot of hp for sure. In street cars and bracket cars I subscribe to the 10lbs per 1000RPM theory....
Will

pianoguy wrote:
Very cool - I wish someone like Will lived in my neighborhood!

rklessdriver wrote:
On street cars and bracket cars, no teflon scrapers... The time just doesn't justify the expense and man hours....

Actually on our really high dollar stuff, no scraper either because a compartmentalized dry sump just won't have enough oil down there to need it. With a pick up in each cyl head, the lifter valley and 2 in the pan there's not much excess oil flying around a really good motor.....

Back in the early 80's I can remember my dad spending hours, fitting scrapers... not much later on we actually found that with a wet sump the best thing you can do is use as deep of an oil sump as possible to get the oil as far away from the "spinning things" as you can. If your stuck with a short oil sump best thing to do is separate the sump from the crank and rods with a good windage tray.

So these days on the wet sump stuff, I try and run the best oil pans and windage trays the customer can afford. Even with the best custom pan like the one on my personal car, I can pick up 15HP by taking the oil level down from 7qts to 5qts....
Will

bam wrote:
Running 11.71 @ 117 is really good on a hot cam and stock ported heads!! Who did your tune? Do you run slicks or drag radials? How do the 4.09 gears and the 3000 converter run on the street? Looks like a real nice engine build. If it were possible I'd have a motor in my living room just to look at.