Dear all - I have asked a couple of pals by way of a message the following prpoblem I am having - just thought I would throw it out to the group as well is hopes it may be something one of you good people may have already beaten (thanx)

I picked up my 89 Vette back in January - wow - what a treat - love it !!

We headed back to the UK - where I am now. I missed her so much that I just bought another C4 out here in the UK. (if driving a Vette is bad I don't wanna be good). I really think I got a great deal on it too (well maybe - its not running yet!).

Would you mind if I run my new UK situation by you for any wisdom you might spare (thanks)

The car is a 1995 with 28,000 miles on the LT1 motor. Not the best shape inside (it was just imported here from Japan and it is so hot out there that a few bits on the interior have warped and need to be replaced - glue in some areas of carpet needs to be re-done - seats cracked but not split - no radio (again all cosmetic) - but the kicker is that it will not start.

The UK guy I bough it of had it road certified Jan of this year and he drove it for 300 miles or so - so it has run just fine but it stalled on him and he has never been able to get it to go since (his local mechanic figured maybe the ECM). The engine cranks over but it seems as though there is no gas - just cranks (there is gas by the way).

I have hunted down a couple of corvette specialists here in the UK and am looking at a $500 tow just to get it there (gonna have to bite this bullet I imagine).

I have a pal down at my local pub who is the top mechanic for Austin Martins DB9 and knows his stuff - he is offering to help me out and will be looking it over this weekend in more detail (he had a quick look yesterday and says there is some Mickey mouse wiring that should be stripped out first to rule out any electrical causes - figures he can get it back to its original factory wiring state/condition and then wants to get some testing done from there) - for this I am in his debt (gonnas be buying him pints for a year at least - and he can drink beer!).

He asked me about the immobiliser system in the corvette (which of corse it has but I know very little about) He wanted to know if there was any was to temporarily disable it for the sake of trouble shooting the ignition issue the cars seems to be suffering from. The car only has the one set of keys (need to get another set cut) so we can't rule out if the key is damaged.

Any ideas on how to work with the immobiliser? any thoughts on what would make her just stop running (I know this is such a stupidly huge and open question) but as always your thoughts and insights are greatly appreciated.

Kev

PS - I thought I saw on ebay some time ago something you could screw into the car and it turned off the immobilizer (so you could start the car with any cut key without the chip in it) heard of this?

If the starter turns the engine over you can rule out VATS (immobiliser to use your term) When you say it has gas I assume you simply mean there is fuel in the tank, that is no guarantee it is reaching the engine. A good first step would be to check for fuel pressure at the rail on the intake manifold, should be close to 40psi. If that checks good, make sure there is spark at the plugs, if you have good spark and correct fuel pressure the only remaining variables are compression and timing, good luck.

Dear TopTechX6

Thanks so very much for taking the time to reply - I feel much better after hearing what you had to say: In summary:

1. If the starter turns the engine over you can rule out VATS (YES IT DOES)

2. check for fuel pressure at the rail on the intake manifold, should be close to 40psi. (THANKS - MY AUSTIN MARTIN PAL IS DOING THIS SATURDAY)

3. make sure there is spark at the plugs (THANKS - MY AUSTIN MARTIN PAL IS DOING THIS SATURDAY)

4. the only remaining variables are compression and timing

Thanks so very much for the above insights. My pal noticed already that one of the belts is on backwards (which may go some way towards timing). He will be pleased to know he is not also conteding with VATS system. Forgive me but are you aware of any on-line resources that might shed some light on verifying both compression and timing on the LT1? Thanks again - I do appreciate your time!

warm regards

kev

There is no timing belt on your car so whatever your mechanic noticed is not related to the failure to start issue.
Cam and Opti-spark distributor are timed to the crankshaft using a chain, inspecting it requires removal of the waterpump, crank pulley, distributor and chain cover. With the low miles on your engine problems with the chain are extremely unlikely, the same is true regarding compression, they were mentioned only because they are required for the engine to run.
Checking compression is a simple procedure using a gauge installed after removing the spark plugs, if your mechanic knows anything he will not need further directions, since you are not doing the work yourself allow him to check the basics mentioned earlier.
What you can do to help is purchase a factory service manual if you don't have one already, it contains detailed troubleshooting procedures that will assist your mechanic on this and future problems. Some of the information is available on-line using the search function but having a printed version is essential for servicing these vehicles, again good luck and please let us know the outcome.

I was gonna reply...


But Toptech covered it lol.

Just do what he said and I'm sure you will be fine

Dear toptechx6 and Mekanic

Thanks so much for your time - I will try to source the service Manual as well (Car did not come with a Users Manual but I sourced one for my 89 in Toronto from Helminc thanks to the advise from folks at c4guru) - I know I will not be able to source the paper version of the service manual in time for this Saturday as I am in the UK - I will try to find some on-line resources along the lines you have suggested. Thanks again so much for your time - I will let you know the outcome - I'm in it for a penny (in it for a pound) now - just gonna come down to time and cash/beer.

warm regards

kev

Download the Owner's Manual for free!

https://www.mygmlink.com/pdf/go2conten ... hevrolet/1995corvette.pdf

Your mechanic should need little additional information just to check for fuel and spark but you will want to obtain the manuals as soon as possible if you are keeping the car.
Here is a link to one source,

http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/199 ... ervice-Manual-p/60209.htm

You mentioned Users Manual, if you mean owners manual which is quite different from the Service Manual here is a link to that which is on-line, hope that helps.

http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/199 ... ervice-Manual-p/60209.htm

Oops, see Klaus beat me to the link for an owners manual, lots of helpful members here.

Scan it for codes. If you get 16 or 36 I would bet the previous owner washed the engine and ruined the optispark.
Where are you in UK? My son is over there at LakeNHeath AFB. Yours left hand or right hand drive?

Dear All

Thanks so much for your tremendous levels of support - can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

95Vette had asked me "Scan it for codes. If you get 16 or 36 I would bet the previous owner washed the engine and ruined the optispark."

Will do - Thanks to the above links to the Owners Manual (which I have now downloaded) I am going to work out how to get the codes to display (do I need the car to be running to get this feed-back? as it does not yet run). Is a ruined Optispark a big repair?

(note to self) To a large extent this really was a bit of an impulsive blind purchase .... convincing my girlffirend that we (I) really do need 2 corvettes (one in Toronto and one here) took a small act of god to accomplish (whom I am still thanking every time I ssslide behind the wheel). However now I find myself thinking 'was I too eager' ... at the time I figure 'hell I'll get it going' .... always better to regret something you have done than something you haven't ... I guess!!

95Vette - it is a left hand drive (did not know you could convert them to right hand side (being from Toronto driving from the left is not a problem for me).

Is your son at RAF Lakenheath (a USAFE base)? I am in Milton Keynes - he is about 70 miles (hour and 20 mins drive East). Does he like the UK?

Thanks again all for your help and interest - will keep you all in the loop

kev

This link will show you how to pull codes and what they mean.
See post #5, courtesy of moderator Casethecorvetteman.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showt ... 9&highlight=ecm+code+list

(by the way mods, shouldn't we post this here as a sticky so we do not need to redirect to CF the next time the question comes up?)

Be advised that the codes are of little value without the Factory Service Manual to correctly troubleshoot the circuit.
For example,a code that mentions the O2 sensor does not indicate the sensor should be replaced, it only directs you to the circuit with a problem, the test procedure in the FSM is the only correct way to isolate the problem.

Quote:

So far they have been keeping him very busy, but he seems to be doing fine 'over there'. Guess when the weather gets nicer he will be busy touring. Changing an Opti is a PITA, especially the damper pulley, but we can get back to that if/when you find it is necessary.

Dear 95Vette

You wrote "Changing an Opti is a PITA, especially the damper pulley, but we can get back to that if/when you find it is necessary."

Please forgive my ignorance - but what does PITA mean (sounds like some kinda anti meat - tree huggin organisation to me - forgive me even more if you are an anti meat - tree hugger) but PITA in the context of a Corvette repair - sounds like a double scoop of "NOT GOOD"

I keep saying thanks so much to you all - I'm sure you guys are not believing it anymore - please be assured I am very grateful for both your time and consideration to my plight - I have not felt 100% good about my decision until hearing from you good folks (thanx - please know what comes around - goes around (will not be from me) but all deeds come back around to you - rest assured that good things happen to good people)

Showed my Austin Martin pal, (gave me #@£" over spelling Austin Martin wrong - like I'm ever gonna drive one) this paper trail so far this evening - he appreciated all your comments!!

In all honesty (to set this record straight) ... I wrote "My pal noticed already that one of the belts is on backwards (which may go some way towards timing)."

To which my friend (95Vette) wrote "There is no timing belt on your car so whatever your mechanic noticed is not related to the failure to start issue. "

The assumption to timing was mine - not his (as he pointed out to me this evening at the pub).

The Up-Shot

He now is having me tow the car to his house (Rear Private Garage) on Saturday morning where he wishes me to leave it with him (I believe Dr. Frankenstein has felt a challenge) this helps me 1000% as he is a local resource/friend whom knows the car (and he is obviously for helping out a good guy too!) - Funnily enough he is long distance dating a gal from Dallas (met her a few time - Patty - really nice girl)

Finally 95Vette (and everyone else) thanks for your kind offer of "but we can get back to that if/when you find it is necessary"

Lastly you wrote "So far they have been keeping him very busy, but he seems to be doing fine 'over there'. Guess when the weather gets nicer he will be busy touring."

Yeh - the world is a mad place these days - evil prospers when good men do nothing - by the sounds he is doing something (which is something we should all be thankful for!")

Warm regards and goodnight

kev

PITA means Pain In The Ass (or Arse if you prefer).

How to change out an Optispark--abbreviated version:

Remove the air bridge (duct work from filter to throttle body), remove the belt, belt tensioner, and then the water pump. Next remove the crank pulley (biggest PITA) by removing the 3 bolts that hold the pulley to the hub and "whacking" the pulley off the hub (usually frozen together). Presoaking the pulley/hub interface with some good penetrating oil helps. Good idea to change plugs wires while you are this far into it. If you need more details just ask.
Andy

Be sure to check the coil wire. There is usually a plastic casing over it to prevent it from rubbing on the water pump. Sometimes the casing is missing and the coil wire will rub on the water pump shorting it out.

This is what happened to me a few years back. Changed the coil wire and all was well.

I had the same symptoms. Car would crank, but not start and when it did start(sometimes I got lucky) it would sputter at high RPM.

I was on vacation and needed to get home 1100 miles away. So I didn't stop much except for gasoline and I made it home OK. A buddy of mine took one look and fixed it in 10 seconds.

It's Aston Martin!

Yes ... and he won't let me forget it!

Dear All

I have an update on the car. I had it towed to my 'Aston Martin' pal's house (his garage is a mini car shop). After a good first initial look he has come back to me (and by way of this update to you guys too) with some observations and enquiries (thanks)

He is going to stip out all the 'after market' wiring (a previous owner had run a wiring harness overtop of the basic system to ... (frankly I do not no exactly why - it runs to the various indicator and side lights on the car - also they had to change the tail lights from red to amber (UK regulation)). But the long and the short (no pun intended) is that it is going to get removed. Pal figures it was a real bodge up and we will be much better off without it.

He found the following and was hoping someone may else may have come accross something like this before.

PROBLEM #1

The fuse for the ECM constantly blows (right away) he had 1 spare 3 amp fuse and as soon as he put it in the fuse blew right away - believes the line is shorted somehwere - he is grabbing fuses tomorrow and will be looking at it again tomorrow night. Any insights/ideas what could cause this line to short like this?

Please Note - the car does not have a Radio in it - the wires are folded into the radios space in the dash (don't think it is related but thought I shoud mention too).

Sure appreciate you all tking the time to read/respond.

Have a great week

Kev

Dear all

I have ordered the service manuals for the 95 Vette (as well as the Haines one too) They are getting delivered to our Toronto address and will be shipped to the UK from there (sellers would not send direct).

In the interim in an effort to further troubleshoot the ECM fuse issue is there anyone out there whom might havr access to the ECM Plugs terminal wiring diagram [which is earth/ground and which should never be grounded] - many thanks

I am in the process or ordering a replacement ECM from the States (a boneyard in CA has one) - I am verifying my existing service part number. Also need a what I believe is the water temp sender (located in the center of the V in the front of the engine) seems to have been sheered off.

I'm usre this is the beginning of my shopping spree - any other parts you foks might suggest I get 2 of (may as well do it in one shipping pass)

thanks
kev

You can use a 12V buzzer in place of the fuse that is blowing to allow you to find the overload. Sounds internal to the ECM.

Send me your e-mail by PM and I'll scan in those 16 pages. Gonna be about 6MB, I hope you can handle that without a problem?

Dear Mr_Mojo, DropTopCE, Woodstock and 95Vette (and everyone else)

Thanks for all your help - you guys are really helping to make a difference for me. My Aston Martin guys is now pretty sure he know what is 'nackered' on the Car - seems it is the ECM itslelf - it is so cooked that it has litereally melted the red plug/wires that go into it. I am in the midst of sourcing both a replacement ECM and hopefully a foot of each cable (includings their plugs)that go into it - my pal plans to do a good and propper job of replacing the damaged wires/plugs and then fit the new ECM.

He is also stipping out the aftermarket wiring that was in the car when I got it (this botched job could be resposible for burning out the ECM.harness)

I hope to have the parts FEDEX'd here for this Friday (if I can place the order today) - I promise to keep you all in the loop on this.

As always any thoughts on this situation are so very much appreciated - anyone else ever come accross a cooked ECM like this before (can anyone think of any knock-on damage this issue may have already caused) - does a simple wireing and ECM replaement sound like a good first step?

thanks all !!
kev

Do you got the original Delco battery with the side posts in there? European batteries got the pols reversed. Don't know about UK though, they do everything different.
A mistake like that could kill anything electric in no time

Quote:

The battery (and poles are correct) yes it is difficult to source a North American style batteries from here in the UK - I lucked out as one of the few suppliers was here in my home town. GM (Vauxhall here) makes a car here called "Vauxhall Sintra" and the batteries for them are North American style. Still not easy to get though.

The car was certified and running here in the UK in Jan of this year - previous owner said he was driving it and it stalled - would not restart (assume blowing ECM Fuse and damaged ECM had something to do with this) guess I can only hope that any electrical damage was not systemic or I might be the proud owners of a very lovely paper-weight.

** Fortunately no other fuses show as blown in the fuse box so it might be safe to say that the other electrical systems have not received a surge strong enough to damage the fuses - and hopefully not the componenets they protect

Thanks for your thoughts and time Woodstock

kev

I am sourcing the ECM from a boneyard back in North America - I noticed in the manual sections that Woodstock was kind enough to scan and send to me that it says

When diagnostics call for a replaement PCM it must first be programmed

Is this something I will need to contend with ? I have made sure the replacement using has a matching service number (beginning with 16xxxxx) - is replaceing the ECM more than swapping out parts?

thanks again all

kev

Hi all

Just a quick question - talking to a guy at a scappers about a replcement ECM and when I qouted him the exisitng service number - 16198260 - he told me this was for a 1990-1991 corvette - so I contactexd GM back in Canada and asked them - they said this part number was used accross a number of cars - the new number for this part is 88999195

they have been good in asking for the VIN and they will check what should be there - anyone know much about service numbers and how they pertain to 95 vettes

as always - many thanks

kev

The numbers you quoted are for L98 engines, 90 and 91 Vettes to be specific.
You need more like 16181333 for a 95 Vette.
The F-body 16188051 could work, but not too sure about that.

edit. You do need to have it programmed according to your VIN specifications. Don't know to much about it though.

Wow - what a day

Found out the following:

CAR IS A 1992 (not a 95) - door sticker shows a manufatured date of Nov 91 - It has an LT1 engine in it (Spoke to GM in Canada today whom confirmed based on the VIN that it is a 92) and was sold as a 92

I believe I am screwed in terms of going after the seller for selling a car under false pretense (ie 92 not a 95) - Even the MOT documents (governments Ministry of Transportation) says the car is a 95 so not entirely all the sellers fault.

I figure I'm riding this wave to the end (hopefully the beach!) I am having the car towed to a UK Vette shop tomorrow morning (gonna cost 650 USD to tow it 80 friggin miles!) ouch! I should open a towing business

These guys should be able to exercise this cars ghosts once and for all - will keep you in the loop of this ever changing saga. No guts no glory ... right ?

kev

Quote:

Man that 92 part could be very bad news, I understand the ECM's for 92 & 93 are really scarce. I believe the number you need is 16159278. Best of luck, let us know how it shakes out.

Quote:

Maybe that is for OEM ECMs. I bought an ECM last year (not an OEM) no problem. You will also need a chip for that.

Make sure you ohm the injectors. Shorted injectors can fry the drivers in the ECM.

Here is the self diagnosis procedure for you that TopTechx6 posted the link to, i was going to post it when i started reading here, i havent been on here much and didnt know about this thread so i appologise for that.

Paper clip from pin 12 to ground (4 or 5 are both ground) will get you into diagnostics mode.

[QUOTE]
CasetheCorvetteman Wrote:

[COLOR=CC3300][SIZE=x-large][U]On a 94-96 you can check the codes with a paper clip as follows:[/U][/SIZE][/COLOR]

[B]You short pin "12" to pin "4" and turn the ignition switch to "On" without starting the engine.

The speedometer will display any codes using the same protocol as the 1990-1993 model but there are some changes in the designation for the modules plus additional modules are added:

Module "1" is still the CCM module.

Module "4" is now called the PCM module (Powertrain Control Module) because automatic transmission computer control was added to Engine Control Module in 1994.

Module 7 (on the 1996 model only) is the RTD module. (This is the Real Time Dampening module which replaced the Selective Ride Control module in 1996).

Module 9 is the ABS/ASR module number from 1994 through 1996.
Finally, Module "A", the DERM (Dynamic Energy Control Module --- (the air bag control module) will be requested to show any codes.

Just like the 1990-1993 display, you read the codes on the speedometer (big) and read the module number on the trip odometer (small).

A series of dashed lines for instance “ - - -“ indicates no more stored codes for that module.

A code showing as “C12” for the CCM module (module #1) means no codes are stored. So C12 is a good thing to see.

Again, you can cause the codes to repeat by turning the ignition off for five seconds and then back on.

Turn the ignition off and remove the short to restore normal operation.[/B]

[COLOR=CC3300][SIZE=xx-large][U]To clear the codes,[/U][/SIZE][/COLOR]

[B]1. With ignition "off" ground terminal #12 of the DLC (use bent paper clip to connect pin 4 to pin 12)

2. Turn ignition "on".

3. Press trip/odo button on the DIC until 1.7 appears in the trip
monitor area of the instrument cluster.

4. Press eng/met button on the DIC & hold until "---" appears in the
speedometer area of the cluster, this will clear CCM DTC'S.


To clear PCM/ECM codes do the following:


1. Press the trip reset button on the DIC until the desired system is displayed. In this case it will be 4.0.

2. Press trip/odo button on the DIC until the desired diagnostic mode(4.7) is displayed on the trip monitor area of the cluster.

3. Press & hold the eng/met button on the DIC until "---" is
displayed in the speedometer area of the cluster, this will clear PCM codes.


To clear ABS/ASR codes do the following:

Same as above but you’re looking for “9.7” on the trip odo[/B]

[COLOR=CC3300][SIZE=xx-large][U]And here are the codes[/U][/SIZE][/COLOR]

[B]1994-1995: Diagnostic Trouble Codes
DTC #11: Malfunction Indicator Lamp Circuit.
DTC #13: Bank #1 Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit:
DTC #14: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage Low.
DTC #15: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage High.
DTC #16: Distributor Ignition System Low Pulse.
DTC #18: Injector Circuit.
DTC #21: Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Voltage High.
DTC #22: Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Voltage Low.
DTC #23: Intake Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage High.
DTC #24: Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit.
DTC #25: Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage Low.
DTC #26: Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Circuit.
DTC #27: EGR Vacuum Control Signal Solenoid Valve Circuit.
DTC #28: Transmission Range Pressure Switch Assembly Fault.
DTC #29: Secondary Air Injection Pump Circuit.
DTC #32: Exhaust Gas Recalculation.
DTC #33: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit High.
DTC #34: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Low.
DTC #36: Distributor Ignition System High Pulse.
DTC #37: Brake Switch Stuck On.
DTC #38: Brake Switch Stuck Off.
DTC #41: Ignition Control Circuit Open.
DTC #42: Ignition Control Circuit Shorted.
DTC #43: Knock Sensor Circuit.
DTC #44: Bank 1 LF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Lean.
DTC #45: Bank 1 LF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Rich.
DTC #47: Knock Sensor Circuit Or Module Missing.
DTC #48: Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit.
DTC #50: System Voltage Low.
DTC #51: EPROM Programming Error.
DTC #52: Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage Low.
DTC #53: System Voltage Low.
DTC #55: Fuel Lean Monitor.
DTC #58: Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low.
DTC #59: Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High.
DTC #62: Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage Low.
DTC #63: Bank 2 RF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Open.
DTC #64: Bank 2 RF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Lean.
DTC #65: Bank 2 RF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Rich.
DTC #66: A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Open.
DTC #67: A/C Pressure Sensor Circuit Sensor or A/C Clutch.
DTC #68: A/C Relay Circuit.
DTC #69: A /C Clutch Circuit.
DTC #70: A/C Clutch Relay Driver Circuit.
DTC #72: Vehicle Speed Sensor Loss.
DTC #73: Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Current Error.
DTC #74: Traction Control System Circuit Low.
DTC #75: Transmission System Voltage Low
DTC #77: Primary Cooling Fan Relay Control Circuit.
DTC #78: Secondary Cooling Fan Relay Control Circuit.
DTC #79: Transmission Fluid Overtemp.
DTC #80: Transmission Component Slipping.
DTC #81: Transmission 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit.
DTC #82: Transmission 1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit.
DTC #83: Torque Converter Solenoid Voltage High.
DTC #84: 3-2 Control Solenoid Circuit.(Auto Only).
DTC #84: 2nd And 3rd Gear Blockout Relay Control Circuit.
DTC #85: Transmission TCC Stock On.
DTC #90: Transmission TCC Solenoid Circuit.
DTC #91: One To Four Upshift Lamp(Manual Only).
DTC #97: VSS Output Circuit.
DTC #98: Tachometer Output Signal Voltage Wrong. [/B]

To run a diagnostic on the PKE system, [B][U]connect pins 4 and 8[/U][/B] on the ALDL (see pic below to see pin label order)
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a185/Casethecorvetteman/Tuning/dlc19xs.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=x-large][COLOR=CC3300][B]And the PKE diagnostic system works as follows:[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[B]With pins 4 and 8 connected, the PKE light in the Driver Info Centre will flash the codes.[/B]

[SIZE=x-large][COLOR=CC3300][B]Here is the list of DTCs and what they mean:[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]

[B]DTC #12: Receiver Memory Bad
DTC #13: Transmitter Not in Range
DTC #14: Non-Valid Transmitter Received
DTC #15: Valid Transmitter Received
DTC #16: Passenger Door Button Depressed
DTC #17: Hatch Button Depressed[/B][/QUOTE]

Dear All

Car has been towed and the parts have been ordered (may be ready best case a week tomorrow) so all I can do is SFA till then (really can't wait!!!) - plan to drive Europe with my girl when she's running (the car that is - my girl already can!)plus my girlfriend is my PLAN Z if this car should break down (imagine that) .... push darlin ... push !! - will keep you in the loop

kev

Quote:

You might need a new girl friend!
Let's hope not.

Dear 95 Vette - your so right - even after being together 22 years I know this would have been the last thing I ever asked her!

Car goes under the knife tomorrow - will keep you all in the loop

kev

NOT SO GOOD NEWS (maybe)

The mechanic whom is working on the car GOT IT GOING ... but he also wrote

"Well, it is now running. Wiring all repaired, new plug wired into loom etc. Started straight away.

But engine very rattly. Codes up, indicating new cold start sensor needed. Fitted that , old one broken. So, it may have been running very rich for a long time, diluting oil. Now about to change the oil ,before any damage done.

Noted ‘Quad-driver’ fault in ECM, but this is not affecting running or raising a code. Just for info, why not call me when you have read this.


regards
Tom Falconer, Claremont Corvette"

After calling him seems there is a possiblilty engine is buggered (he said it is firing on all 8 cylinders) and previous ownser said it ran fine till it stopped (however previous owner has been a tad less than honest to date)

any thoughts on what the rattling could be (good or bad I'm ready for it) thanks all

PS I am flying back to Canada next Wednesday for 2 months - I bet I don't even drive her before I go back (uggg!)

many thanx

kev

Ouch, I did't realize you had taken it out to Snodland. Get your wallet ready. I can't fault Tom's work, but you will pay dearly. If we'd been closer, I'd of given you a hand. Hope it all works out for you.

It does appear I did order the right parts for the job (I realise with it only running 30 secs this is hard to tell). Hearing that it started first time is a great sign (obviously the ECU fitting and plug rewqiring went well based on this alone).

Quick question - do any of you folks reckon the cold start sensor replacement could account for this sort of engine Ratte? Could the engine running that rich for an extended period (diluting the oils viscosity) in turn generate the sort of engine rattle noise we are hearing? I sure hope so (I think). I will be curious to know the assessment of the oil that comes out (hopefully no little metal bits come along for the ride!). I would have to think that if there is (or has been) any significant engine damage done that it would have to have occurred during the existing oils life cycle (possibly near when the old ECU burned out) - hopefully there will be some evidence of this (one way or the other) - forgive my ignorance - you guys clearly know this and a great deal more than I on these matters (probably a dozen ways an engine can be pouched with not evidence in the oil)

I am waiting to hear if Tom thinks the previous owner could have lived with this amount of rattle? (if "for the benefit of the doubt" he did not know the proper sound of an LT1 better?) or is this rattle so significant that anyone would hear it and know something is very wrong (clearly Tom's tuned ear hears this rattle but could the last owner have in all honesty been able to ignored it when driving?). Main reason for my concern is three fold - 1st my loss of faith in the seller and his word on anything but secondly the last time I heard a rattle in a car of mine it was the lower bearing in an 84 firebird - engine was very damaged (sounded like a washing machine with 50p pieces (or quarters) churning around in it) and third is initial my investment. Needless to say my heart is going to be in my gut until I hear the news (one way or the other) tomorrow.

Great news to hear Tom has a good reputation and thanks so very much Ray for your kind offer of assistance - been one hell of a ride finding UK Corvette specialists - having spoken to Tom he impressed me - I am beginning to suspect this will not be a best case scenario for me no matter how this goes down - I'm sure Tom will be able to put me in the picture and I sure appreciate all of you folks chiming in - as always your time and thoughts are greatly appreaciated - mine are just plain scaring me now !!.

take care
kev

Dear All

As promised I am keeping you all in the loop on this. GREAT NEWS - spoke to Tom yesterday now has the engine running sweet as a nut! (turns over 1st time - every time, he said she sounds and performs like and LT1 should)- here's what was up (ie troubleshooting the engine rattle)

The source of the Rattle

Tom started pulling the engine apart and worked his way down - he found the Guide Plate had come loose (I have tried to attach an image of it in this entry) - on Friday Tom wrote "Kev, we are continuing reassembly his morning. Yesterday, we refitted the guide plate, and reset all the rocker clearances."

I spoke to Tom on Saturday afternoon and he wrote "Kev, running well now and test drove her at midday. Feels good! No functionality on the heating or DIC buttons, presumably because this was affected by the radio removal. But the car is useable and driveable…….have nice week end!"

so my friends ......... PAY-DIRT !!!!!!!! Happy days!

The car currently has no Radio - do you folks think this could this account for "No functionality on the heating or DIC buttons" Can't imagine the systems are interdependent (ie radio/DIC buttons) but what do I know (nada!). Tom is kindly having a look at this tomorrow morning - so if the planets are aligned I may get to drive her this week. What sucks now is that we fly back to Toronto on Wednesday - so at best we will only get a day or 2 - the anticipation is killing me. With only 28000 on the clock we're taking her "the-long-road" across Europe this summer !!!

Guys I really want to thank all of you for your time and input through this 32 day roller-coaster of mine - your kindness and professionalism makes be grateful to be a member.

warmest possible regards

kev

What guide plate mate?

Quote:



Tom (my Mechanic) had written in an email to me "Kev, we are continuing reassembly his morning. Yesterday, we refitted the guide plate, and reset all the rocker clearances" Wish I could figure out how to paste a picture - I browse to the file 8KB (very small) but will not show ??



In essence Tom got down to the pistons/rockers - this guide is used to align them - they also replaced a couple of piston rods.too. Wish I could say more - I picked up the car this evening 6PM but Tom had left so I could not get much more information. The car ran GREAT on the 2 hour drive back - just hauls ass when you accelerate - it just wants to go fast - tough urge to fight !!



I would just like to thank and say that Tom Falconer or Claremont Corvette (Malling Road, Snodland, Kent, ME6 5NA, UK)  did an outstanding job - I am 100% satisfied and would highly recommend his professional services to anyone in the UK



  kev