Matatk wrote:
Quote:

383tpimachine wrote:
Mine arrived today. Very stout piece.
Mine is the V1 for 84-88

Pedal bracket or brake adapters?

biggrizzly wrote:
According to Accu-Weather, Friday will be nice but Saturday will be mostly cloudy. But Cloudy is welcome at Carlisle in August to keep things cooler. Sunday will start to get ugly with Irene coming up the coast.

Call me when you get there, 443-939-1852

biggrizzly wrote:
OK Where and when do we meet?

Eagle223usa wrote:
Would anyone have part numbers on those washers?

BillH wrote:
Ray, they may have changed that at a certain point but my 92's alarm will deactivate simply by inserting the key in the ignition, that's in the owners manual.

And my curiosity made me go down into the shop and try it.

BillH wrote:
To turn off the alarm either unlock the door with the key or put the key in the ignition and turn it to "on".

autoxtraz wrote:
Just the way it was written - "up for sale for years?" sounds like a back handed comment. Anyway, Keith was the initial owner of this one, eventually ended up at Claremont then Romford. Just trying to restore the usual nasty interior/weatherseals/front airdam as the outside and mechanicals are all ok 'cept for the leaking p/s pump - £43 for a seal kit!! Impressive fuel consumption for motorway runs at 65/70mph - 23.4-26.7 mpg.

autoxtraz wrote:
Don't know how to take that question - Is that meant to be some sort of smart arse comment or a genuine ask?
Answer is simply NO! Belonged to a guy from London who owned it for 10 years until passed away.
The matching sister car you may be refering to may be the one advertised on EuroVette's site - this was was featured in the C4 Originallty Guide book under the plate 13 LUR - also owned orignally by Eurovette.

autoxtraz wrote:
1987 Vette Callaway TT - just trying to get it sorted

biggrizzly wrote:
This is from a 3 disk set of the Power Building Videos, Heads, Porting and Valve Trains. This is a great video set to understand what the heck is going on with the heads, cams and timing and valve geometry. Lots of questions answered in that set.

bogus wrote:
Ok... time to clear the air on this subject.

I spoke with Jason @ Vette2Vette this morning and he is concerned that the full story isn't out and made clear.

Time to do just that:

Jason and Vette2vette have NOTHING to do with the site. This separation occured as part of his divorce from TJ about a year ago.

Gordon is no longer associated, either. I hope Gordon can get his good name back, but I don't know the contract language.

Jason is still in business and is working towards his own new site, so no worries there. Any links between the two sites will be removed shortly.

bogus wrote:
I am digging deep here, Ray, so bear with me.

IIRC, the oil pressure switch is normally open. So when it fails, it fails open, and that is why it reads 80 psi when failure occurs.

If the wiring dies, meaning a shorted circuit, then you get a 0 reading. When the wiring just breaks and there is no short, then you get 80.

Does that sound about right? I have never heard of the OPS failing and doing anything other than reading 80 psi.

bogus wrote:
To be honest, I think a dead sensor sets it to 80lbs, a dead harness sets it to 0. Check the book, I don't remember for sure.

biggrizzly wrote:
oh and a polished driveshaft!

JeffK wrote:
Anyone know what size thread chaser I need to chase the head bolt threads in the block??

rklessdriver wrote:
Ray
I would HIGHLY suggest you measure the bolt stretch.

The tool from ARP or BHJ is only $150.00-$200.00 and is $$$ well spent.

I can guarentee that short 7/16 ARP 8740 bolt will not stretch the proper amount using a TQ wrench....

There is a good reason Scat changed those rods 2 years ago from 3/8th ARP 2000 bolts to the 7/16 bolt - because people were building oval track engine right on the 550HP power rating and using TQ wrenches.... Those rod bolts were breaking and scattering motors everywhere. The ARP 2000 bolt is VERY sensitive to proper stretch for proper clamp load.....

The 7/16 ARP 8740 bolt is more forgiving but I can tell you as short as it is.... I'd bet the TQ rating is 70-75 lbs....

I would like you to read this. It pretty well covers the peril of using TQ wrenches on a critical fastner like a high performance rod bolt.

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/co ... tretch-assembly-specs.php

I'll also offer my apologies for the thread drift and subsequent Hijack.
Will

bogus wrote:
The old cast flywheel weighs only a bit more than a stone? Damn, I wish my DMFW was that light... try 40lbs!

I agree, I wouldn't lighten it one bit. That's a good weight.

Also check ZOOM clutches.

bogus wrote:
SPEC had a bad rep a few years back... poor customer service and poor quality control. I don't know about them today. I had one then, and really, wasn't impressed.

Check with Mcloed or Centerforce. Also, RAM makes good clutches.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

rayquayle wrote:
Hey Will, quick probably dumb question. What about new rods that come with cap screws? The caps come torqued, so is there any way to know what the original length was? I suppose ARP has the nominal length posted somewhere?

Measure them before you remove them for the first time.

I'd have to look in my ARP book but IIRC I don't think they would give more than a nominal measurement. Will may know.

I can dig my book out if you want.

rklessdriver wrote:
On the rod bolts. We measure the free length in our racing engine's rod bolts. Then every tear down - we check them against that orginal measurement. Easy to spot one that's ready to go off the reservation. Of course that's not possible with used rods.

Luckily stock SBC thru rod bolts last a very long time. As long as you do not over TQ the bolt and permantly stretch/damage it or pull the threads off - they are capable of being TQ'd and un-TQ's and re-used within their capability many times. You can usually spot an over stretched thru bolt type rod bolt by the threads first - The nut won't spin on freely. If thats the case it could just be a burr or dent on the threads - but if you come across one like that - inspect it with a magnifying glass to find the problem.

If you have ANY doubt - replace them. It's not worth it. I've broken rods before and it's usually 100% destruction at any RPM.

biggrizzly wrote:
Mick, Your car is amazing.

flyboy wrote:
"113" heads is an abbreviation for the GM aluminum L98 TPI heads, 87-91.

bogus wrote:
I did a story on the install in Corvette Enthusiast recently, and have been driving on the Banski kit for 14 months now. It has been absolutely reliable and durable. I have put about 3000 miles on the kit, but the roads around here really do suck.

If you have the CE article, I would read that... you will get the entire reasoning behind it and the install process.

bogus wrote:
I will be in touch!!!!

30 quid sounds pretty good... that's about $40, no bad at all.

PLRX wrote:
Great job!!

How did you use the Happy Hooker for a L98?

Matatk wrote:
Also, that happy hooker is a great tool. I wish they had something like that for the L98.
Matthew

BillH wrote:
Quote:

Jeffvette wrote:
Hard to start when the exhaust is completely plugged from mice!

Maybe you need some exhaust cats.

Matatk wrote:
Ray - from what I read, the flat tappet cams use a different material on the cam gear, so you just use a standard cast iron distributor gear.

Matthew

Jeffvette wrote:
Any pics of how this thing should fit?

flyboy wrote:
The intake base bolts were different lengths on my '91 also,

biggrizzly wrote:
If I had some friends to go and have a few beers in Georgetown I might think about it.

Matatk wrote:
I'll send you a framed 4 ft poster of me, holding the new suspension pieces.