Tomorrow I am looking at a frame on restored 1980 for another enthusiast. He lives in Europe and has trusted me with performing the test drive. If everything goes OK then he will buy it and have it shipped to him.
The car is a couple of hours away and since I am taking a load of stuff over to my daughter who lives nearby I am going to take a look-see.
I once owned an 81 and rebuilt the engine along with some of the suspension, power steering components and aftermarket exhaust.
I plan to eyeball it for ride height, straight body panels, good weatherstripping, operation of headlights and all switches, indicators, accessories and interior wear. I know the trick of shining a bright light down the windshield posts to look for birdcage rust and putting a white towel under the hinges and closing the doors a few times to look for rust flakes.
During the test drive I will check for tracking, steering, brakes and engine noises and general consistent power along with how the tranny shifts. I will also check for driveline slop.
If all goes well the owner will take it to a local Corvette shop (Motor City Steel) in Detroit and they will put it on a lift to check the frame, suspension and running gear. They will also do a compression and leak-down test.
Since I have been around C4s so much lately I just want to make sure I have not missed anything. Oh yeah, we have checked to see that it was not originally a Califonication 305 already.
Anything else I should look for?

The only advice I have is make sure it's not pink??? JK.

I think it's a stand up thing you're doing for that guy - I saw the post on the other board and not too many people were willing to help. I wish I knew more about C3s, like you do.

Matthew

It sounds like already know the trouble spots.

The only other things I would look for is frame rust, especially at the rear kick-up (trailing arm pivot area), and floorboard rust (I believe 80s had steel). And depending on how many miles, stress cracks in the frame around the front suspension.

Since you owned an '81, you already know to expect little to nothing when you hit the gas.

And if it has been sitting a while since last driven (several months or years), make sure the brakes actually work before you test drive it.

On our local forum you can see some articles at the bottom of the page about a guy's '67 frame restoration - they may give you some ideas about areas to take a close look at, as the frames were similar:

http://vetteaction.com/

Yes, it sounds like you know a lot of what to look for. You didn't mention if its the original motor?

What are your purposes for this car? Pleasure driving or a show car?

Steven is going to import this car to Belguim where he will drive it for pleasure. The female seller bought it from a retired guy in the Detroit area who is a painter by trade and loves to spend his time out in the garage lavishing loving care on the classic 50s and 60s cars. He had the original engine rebuilt and put some Edelbrock go-fast goodies on it. He sanded off the lacquer and painted it Porsche red. Interior looks great, engine compartment looks beautiful too. I think we may have found a real jewel. My test drive tomorrow and the professional inspection later (if I pass on it) will determine whether he buys it or moves on to the next one.
Andy Bolig at Corvette Enthusiast magazine has asked me to take some pics and write a story for publication in their magazine.
I will be sure and mention that the crew at Corvette Guru helped out.
Will post some pics if the sale goes through.
Per Steven, even with the import fees and shipping it is still much cheaper to buy a car in the U.S. European based Corvettes are very, very expensive to buy there.

And by the way, I do NOT own a pink Corvette. I am in between right now so this keeps me busy and still in the game.

Looked at the car and did a test drive. Oil pressure was pegged to the right and the odometer looked like had rolled over to 122,000 but who knows the actual mileage as a Carfax will not work on a 1980. Owner stated that it will sometimes overheat.
I also discovered that it was originally a white car but now is red. Overall the interior and body were nice with only a couple of chips on the exterior and a repaired spot on the dash. Unfortunately the spot is right in front of the driver. It would drive me nuts to look at it all the time.
Prospective buyer will make a decision in the next 24 hours whether to have the owner take it to a Corvette shop for final inspection. He may pass on it just from what I found out. If he decides to buy then the Corvette shop's inspection of the frame and engine/driveline will determine if he goes through with everything.
I REALLY appreciate the fine handling and modern ammenities on the C4 after driving a C3 again. The later C3s really look sexy sitting in the driveway and the view looking over those fenders is awesome but they are old cars after all.
A question: I measured the wheel well height from the ground to the upper lip. The front matched perfectly but the left rear was 3/4" higher than the right. Any ideas of why this would be different or does it even make a difference? It is not evident from just eyeballing it.

Does the pressure peg with key on, or build up to it?

A disconnected sending unit will peg, assuming it's using electric guages.

Also when did the composite spring debut in the C3? I would never trust the body panels as a reference point, but even so, a 3/4" difference can't possibly be coming off the assembly line.

The OP was electronic in 1980, I am pretty sure of that.

They started to go away from mechanical guages at some point there... I think when HEI came into play. It's easier to bundle a wire vs a straw with oil.

The 81 got the composite spring. I would worry about something being out of alignment... or worse. I don't remember my brothers 67 being jacked like that.

Oh, and C3s have a tendency to overheat... it's the nature. But the 80 got new front end bits to improve air flow. I wonder if there is debris inside the intake, ala, C4.

Ron - I know what you mean about C3 to C4. The C3 looks bad to the bone, but jeez, the C4 is leaps ahead in dynamics; ride, handling, composure... just leaps.

Think HEI came out in 74, could be wrong though.

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Unless the Corvette got it earlier which is possible, I believe that GM went to it en masse in '75. Mopar was the first domestic with EI in '73, Ford in '74 and GM in '75, as I remember it.

"breakerless high energy ignition became standard in 1975" per a couple of Corvette books. I do not think it was on the 74. (Duh, that is what HEI must stand for???)

Been doing some looking for maybe a late C3, thanks for the good advice.

I think I might just keep the 93 Ruby Red though and forgot the C3. To get any decent hp, you have to figure on upgrades and money. I have some friends that say the C3 and C2 ride smooth, but I am betting the 93 is smoother riding. And my 93 does not have rust.

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For a later C3, yes. Mine was rated at 185hp from the factory, and they didn't get much better. Fortunately, its really easy to upgrade, and only limited by your wallet.

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I suppose "smooth" is subjective, but I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss your friends' opinions.

Everyone that has driven / ridden in both agree that my '76 rides much "smoother" than Dad's '85 Z51.

Mine is slightly lowered, has new poly bushings up front, new rubber in rear, and new Monroe shocks all around. His is stock with the original rubber bushings and new shocks.

I believe the tire size makes a significant difference as well - I'm running 255s on the original 15" ralleys. Not sure about the size on his, but they're not on 15s.

That said, I have no idea how that relates to your '93, but worth mentioning.

:thumbleft:

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275/17s on 17 x 9.5 ZR1 wheels.........if it matters. :tongue: