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I went through 4 different pliers before I found OTC #1569. They have 90-degree tips with .090" diameter. The diameter is important to quickly remove the D36 axle retaining rings. Bought them at www.handsontools.com for about $30 plus shipping.

Good post! I just came over from CF and I'll be staying here. My project is a 1957 Corvette with late C4 chassis. Currently upgrading the stock 3.07 with 3.73, so this post was entertaining and informative. My website has pictures of my project.

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Great! glad you found this spot....there are a few times you post things "over there" an you get crickets.

You'll get opinions on go fast parts and what cam to use.....or what gears to run...but when the rubber hits the road and you are trying to actually "fix" something...you may be out of luck.

If you'll note, I made identical threads here and there on this same topic.

Anyway, to answer your question in your other thread. Look call John at J&S...I'll bet you a Donut that he has that clutch pack in stock.

I haven't seen where my website is visible, so here's the url:

www.stevenemichael.com

Just talked with John at J&S - you're right, what a helpful guy. He has the clutch packs for D36 if I need them. He wouldn't say where he buys them though.

He also told me how to check the packs for wear. With the case assembled (spider gears and clutch packs), stick one stub axle in and move it up, down, and side-side. If the spider gears move around too, then replace the clutch packs.

I told him I am a writer and will be publishing a book for dummies like me on hot-rodding with C4 chassis. I told him he just made the book for his help. He said he's been in print before, but it was a police ledger! Nice guy.

I like the Custard filled with Chocolate Icing.

And those snap ring pliers are great...thanks for the tip

Andy, I see an archiving is in order.

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Are you still writing a book?

Still plugging away at it, yes. I recently finished the LSD rebuild: new clutch packs. The FSM says to use all these specialty tools from OTC/Kent-Moore, but anyone can do it with normal shop tools. Besides, those tools are crazy expensive.

I'm treating the carrier and batwing cover to a sanding and shining. My wife calls it "man jewelry"! It's probably overkill since I'm not a "build it then trailer it" kind of enthusiast. But hey, it's my project.

Once sanding a polishing are completed, I'll set up the new ring & pinion. I removed the old 3.07 and upgraded to 3.54. I tried to find 3.73, but nobody makes them anymore. I'm talking about the 3.73 thin gearset, not the thick. Since my carrier is a type 3, the thick gearset is not useable. Your buddy John and J&S still can't find 3.73 either.

This winter the chassis test fit will happen, along with the body stripping, repair, and paint prep. I have rear quarters that will be grafted in. These allow wider wheels and tires (about 1-1/2" each side). I've never done fiberglass work before - so it should be interesting.

My book is for newbies, like me, who are mechanically inclined, but have never tried any restoration or modification. It's focused on C4 chassis and C5 powertrain. And of course, my '57 body/interior. BTW, I just received new gauges from Classic Instruments - man, do they look great. I bought all new, except for the '57 speedo, which they completely overhauled to match.

If anyone would like to see pictures...let me know.

Dammit!!

First clue, in the rain the other day...only one wheel spun when I gave it too much gas...

Yesterday, I started hearing something that sounded like "Something" clickity clack but only in first gear. I was thinking that a u-joint was going out.

What does it mean when you jack up one wheel and not the other....and you can apply rotation to the up wheel and with a little (and I mean little) effort that wheel will spin...

LSD clutch pack is gone??

I filled that thing with gear oil and TWO LSD additive bottles......could low oil cause this??

Well, last time I worked on that I left the brake off and torqued the rear axle nut just to see what torque it would move at. 110 ft/lbs made the axle turn, I then applied the brake to get to full torque. I'd be curious what others have found for when it slips.

Mine moves at about 110 Inch pounds....

So the D36 is back on the bench, How much gear oil should have been in there? It didn't seem like very much spilled out when I cracked it open....

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It was answered on the other site.....

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I'm assuming you're in gear or park, then yeah, the LSD is shot.




BTW, I was able to turn my LSD using the tire iron, it was somewhere around 100 ft-lbs. This doesn't seem like much at all because the rear end probably handles that much torque at idle. (engine torque x gear ratio x rear end ratio)

I noticed that you said you were going to fill the unit through the plastic cap on the top. That's a vent, not the fill hole. There is a large plug on the side of the unit, at approximately the center of the differential case. That is the fill plug. Fill until fluid runs out that hole.

If only one tire is spinning in the rain, then the posi unit is worn out.

^^Who is filling it through the vent?? Me?? not me, I pumped the new gear oil in the side fill hole until it spilled out.

And yes aboutguy, I appreciate your response......1.5 quarts just looked a little low and not knowing the proper amount....I was scared that I pulled the Diff only to find I was short on oil.....

Anyway, I'll have my D36 specialist look at it in the morning.

And just to stir up shit, this is a case where everything was working fine until I changed the oil.....LOL

yet another example of a tranny or diff doing just fine with oil that is 100k miles old and then a wise guy puts fresh fluid in there and all the clutch surfaces start slipping....

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Yes, you...

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I would probably blame the 2 bottles of friction modifier you added.

The modifier causes the clutches to slip so they are quieter. Somehow, at one time, a weenie didn't like the sound his posi made. Said weenie, unable to cope with the clicking sound of his posi-traction clutches slipping, added 2 bottles of additive. The clicking sound went away. This weenie then posted about how he solved the great clicking debacle with something as simple as an additional bottle of additive. Soon, other weenies were following his lead, and the forum was flooded with stories of the click defeating second bottle of additive. Unfortunately, these weenies don't ever drive their cars agressively, so none of them ever realized that they were killing their posi-traction clutches one bottle of additive at a time.

Next go around use a synthetic fluid with the additive already added (Valvoline makes a cheap one) and leave the additive alone. I would bet a ton of the weenies using the 2 bottles are also using synthetic fluid which already has the friction modifier in it. In that scenario, the clutches don't stand a chance... Modifier in the synthetic fluid and 2 bottles on top... No clutch set up would grab swimming in that.

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I see what you are talking about now....Yes...back then I was looking for a drain, I didn't know that you just remove the batwing to drain it. Notice the date difference between the time I started this thread and now.

That is why I said that I am going to add a drain plug to the Rear end like I did to the 4x3 O/D pan.

And maybe there is something to your story about two bottles of additive......I'll ask the Differential specialist this morning when I get there.

I'll remind you all of the contact I have....John at:

J & S Gear Co.
18222 Gothard St. Unit A
Huntington Beach, Ca. 92648
(714) 841-4545

He of course had the clutch pack in stock.

Two plans of action:

One, the clutch pack can be "Re-shimmed" if they are not too worn out. The Grooves are the tell tale sign. This will cost me $100 for the service of removing the carrier re-shimming and remounting the carrier

Two, The clutch pack is too worn to just shim.

same thing as above with the exception of installing new clutch plates....$250

He was 98% sure he could do the re-shim.....

And of course John will have it ready for me Tomorrow afternoon, 24 hour turn around.

That guy is GOLD! Any local would be wise to jot down that info for anything concerning your D36 or D44....or any other one. Especially performance diffs.

Anyone not local should keep his number....super nice, has parts in stock....The only one that new that there are TWO D36s for our vettes...(watch out...do you have an early version??? Would you know to ask?? The person you asked...did they know about this???)

I don't think 4 extra oz of lsd additive is going to make or break anything.

FWIW, Gordon Killebrew recommended adding 8 oz.


John, The early vs. late D36... is that regarding the different carriers? I know there was a 2-series and 3-series.

There are different versions of the D44 also, but I think it's only external differences on the case that don't effect fitment.

There are two bearings for the Stub Axles. So the case is different to accept those bearings.

OK, The early model D36 is in all 84-91s and the later one is 92+. And the only difference is the Stub axle bearings

So my new clutch pack is installed and ready to go $200 out the door.

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Good info. I never knew that. And it's also such a rarity to find a good, honest, reputable, and trustworthy shop like that. You should persuade him to sign up here

$200??? That's like stealing.

I have spoken with John by phone a few times and he is pure gold.

I replaced my clutch packs for the reasons you cite - bad grooves. But it took me at least two days off and on. Just goes to show you what experience does. But I know how much work there is, even after the carrier is removed, so it's amazing he only charged you about two hours labor (dealer rates).

BTW if anyone is thinking of putting 3.73 in the D36, go for 3.54 instead. John and Tom's Differentials both told me they could not find any manufacturer who makes 3.73s anymore. And if those guys can't find it, it doesn't exist. I bought 3.54 and I'm told it will be a much better gear set for the driving I will be doing.

^^Your right, so for $150 he did those bearings and seals, and $200 for the clutches including parts

Total rebuild on a D36 for $350......(understand no real hard parts had to be replaced)

Does anyone know the Torque specs and bolt tightening sequence for the batwing to the D36 Case?

Never mind....the answer is in my own thread

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