Well, I've decided. It's time. Gonna pull the tired L98 on the 89 and have the machine work done on it. I'm currently in the process of looking for a decent used engine hoist. Hopefully find one soon. Now as far as the actual removal of the engine, I've read of a few different ways to actually attach the chains/hoist. Some use just the chains with bolts either in the accessory holes on the heads or remove the intake and use those bolt holes. Others have used a leveler to assist. Others have used the tpis happy hooker. But is it worth $49 for two uses?

Any insight or advice is appreciated.

Matthew

I have a new one from Pep Boys... it was like $130.00 or so and another $30 bought the leveler.

I would spend the $$ and get both... they don't take up a lot of space to store and you will always have them.

My only gripe with the Pep Boys hoist... the wheels are hard steel and very small. They get cought on things and don't move as you hope or expect.

In a large city like Chicago you can usually find hoists for rent. Local machine shops will sometimes allow the use of their equipment if you are using their services too, and you can always take the shady route and buy one cheap and use it and return it claiming malfunction.

I love owning one though and I have easily used it enough to pay for it.

I like to own tools. Lots of people buy one for 300 use it once, then it sits for 2 years until they sell it for 150. If I get sick of having it around, I can sell it, too.

Matthew

Have you checked Craigslist for a cheap one? Maybe place an ad to borrow one for free beer.

I rented a hoist when I pulled my engine, but kinda wish I had bought one, except for having to store the dang thing.

I borrowed one from my brother, but many salvage yards have one sitting around that they will loan or rent you for dirt cheap.

When I removed my engine I didn't pull the radiator or any of that. Actually never unhooked any of the A/C lines or the power steering lines, just swung the PS pump out of the way, and I slid the condenser canister or whatever that cylinder on the radiator for the A/C is called up out and then had enough room to swing the A/C compressor out of the way. Never lost my A/C gas that way.

Since I don't have an engine stand, I tore mine down to the shortblock while it was in the car. With the heads removed you can remove the upper bellhousing bolts from above with a ratchet wrench very easily. Made the time under the car alot less, which is a good thing!

Now is the time to do long tube headers also, try to fit that into the budget while doing the engine work.

Not sure if you are an auto or a stick but consider converter or clutch now.

Are you doing a performance build or a stock rebuild or somewhere in between?

Matthew, in Chicago:
Hoist & engine stand:
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/tls/1376682695.html

There's also a 2 ton, new on this list, search: engine hoist

One of the man rules I follow is. One can never ever have to many tools.

Just make sure to take out the windshield wiper motor first!!!
Good luck with your project!

I've always run a chain link through a 3/8" bolt in the rear of one head, and a 3/8" bolt in the front of another head.

The levelers and all that hype is a waste of money. When we were buzzing back in the day we would have 3 or more engine jobs a week.

As far as the C4 goes, I never removed the wiper motor but I did hit and crack the cover once (had the motor in and out a few times over the few years I owned the car). Removing it is not a bad idea.

The engine almost falls out of the C4.. You unbolt it, go in side ways (remove wheel) with the engine hoist and lift it out.

-- Joe

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. Trust me, I have been all over CL like white on rice the past few days. I'm actually looking at this hoist:

http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/tls/1375968942.html

I checked the other one that Bill listed, but it's 1 1/2 hour drive each way. A bit much. The one I listed above is also a little more than an hour, but my buddy's gf lives there so he goes down every weekend and can pick it up in his f250 no problem.

As far as pulling it, I was planning on leaving the hood on, radiator in (drained), trans in car disconnected at bell housing, wiper motor removed, intake and heads removed. When I reinstall it, I was going to have the manifold and heads already installed, unless it's easier otherwise. Not sure yet, this is all speculative.

Thanks again,

Matthew

Remove the crank pulley so you have plety of room to move the engine forward off the block dowels into trans

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Another good tip, thanks!

Matthew

Matthew, that hoist probably came from northern tool, here's the specs:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wc ... _6970_200305491_200305491

One of these days, I'll have to post a pic of my hoist. It's bigger than most, has a 2 speed pump and is big enough to pull the body off a C2.

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I agree, ALWAYS remove the pulleys from both the balancer and the water pump. This way you won't accidentally hit it on something and cause a wobble. The weight of an engine can very easily de-round a good pulley.

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Hey Bill, I called her and that's the one. I'm gonna have my buddy pick it up next weekend when he's down there.

Matthew

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Cool.
The Torin stuff is a little higher quality than Harbor Ft,IMO.
We had a foldable HF in the race shop that worked OK.

I buy a bunch of stuff from Northern, they're catalog's a good one to get.

Oh, yea... TAKE PICTURES. Lots of pictures... then you won't wondering where shit goes.