bam wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:
Okay, so I noticed my right side was lower than the left side on my 93. Nothing seemed right. So, I decided to take a looksee. Put her on a lift, nothing obvious.
So, I went to work to remove the spring, as CC hada problem once before with epoxy. Well, the right side had slipped off of the spring. This caused the right side to go lower than the left.
Well, I bought some super duper epoxy from a Marine store, and will give it a try. It is in the Hobby shop curing for the 24hrs needed to get the full 150000 psi strenght , etc etc.
But, when a person decides to lower, I am going to recommend they just take the aluminum spacers out, and cut the rubber on there down a little. This will keep the factory fusion process they use to keep that rubber on, which is good. That way you dont have to find the right epoxy, etc etc.. Then, if it isnt low enough, then just cut part of or all of the pad eyes on the end of the spring.
Thats my take. Sorry so long winded.

Steve did you install the wedges "as is" ie w/o modifying them? When I put mine in I could not see how that "wedge" design would work very well, the point of the wedge puts a lot of pressure where it touches the frame, so I sanded the point off the wedge, so far no problems.

CentralCoaster wrote:
I need to get in there again, on my next attempted I'll try glueing the wedges to the metal above.

Matatk wrote:
Without pics, it didn't happen Steve

Glad you got it done and the annoying noises are gone!

Matthew

Matatk wrote:
No need to remove the factory stuff in there.

bogus wrote:
oooh... heater core... that's about as much fun as getting a root canal done, rectally.

bogus wrote:
As I stated before, the problem is the way the firewall cantelevers off the frame.

I still like the idea of filling the rails with foam, but that isn't the ultimate solution. This is why if I buy anything, it will be a targa truss...

Please note, the steel used in the frame is very high strength... ever try drilling into that stuff? I haven't had much success.

PLRX wrote:
I agree Magnaflows are great outside but the drone wears me out at freeway speeds.

I communicated with a guy via PM about his chambered exhaust and he stated he gets no drone at freeway speeds. Corsa has a great drone reputation and I've regretted not buying it. I will not install LT mufflers tips.

Matatk wrote:
That sounds good! How is it inside? I need to find an LT1 for mine, the magnaflows are just too loud. Same problem, wife hates it.

Matthew

bogus wrote:
it's the exhaust. Gives it that classis SBC rip. Sounds great!

Jeffvette wrote:
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flyboy wrote:
I don't have a picture without the brace for comparison but here's one with the jack under the R.R. mounting point.

I get three wheels off the ground when jacking either of the two race cars.

DRM Rollbar installed on the Z.

pr0zac wrote:
my issue is that josh and dan, although they have bigger engines their cars RUN. and dans car has a much less aggressive cam then yours. i don't think you really lost a whole lot of compression. have you had it dyno tuned? you have it coming out of the hole decent. i would imagine your mph to be at least 115. hell jonescap trapped 117 on a hotcammed lt4. your car should shit on his. i feel like my car was the same way but i know the tune wasn't right..

Weavsvet wrote:
I thought I was hooking pretty good. I've tried flat footing it before and times were not as good. What I have found that gives me the best times is revving it to about 1800-2000 rpm then go. Plus I can't hold the car at very much more than that. It starts to creep. I've found 16 to 17 lbs of air work best for the DR's.

I was really disappointed in their Pro prep yesterday. Maybe just the lane I was in though. I kept trying to switch lanes but it never seemed to work out for me. But still, mid 1.7s were always my best 60's anyway. I probably need a bigger stall converter but that ain't happening. I'm about vetted out these days. I was just trying to get into the 11's with it as I'm thinking of selling.

Weavsvet wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:
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Weavsvet wrote:
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biggrizzly wrote:
Mike, good luck and let us know how you do. I'm just a few weeks away to "tune-time" with mine.

I didn't get to that 11.99 but I did have another best.

12.229 @ 111.55 previous best was 12.227 @ 110.99

Today's DA was 256'

Whats your 60' time

1.742

Weavsvet wrote:
Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
Mike, good luck and let us know how you do. I'm just a few weeks away to "tune-time" with mine.

I didn't get to that 11.99 but I did have another best.

12.229 @ 111.55 previous best was 12.227 @ 110.99

Today's DA was 256'

JrRifleCoach wrote:
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Josh wrote:
MD is fucked up. The entire state needs to be cut off from the rest of the country and set adrift in the Atlantic. Fuck that place.

While active duty military I lived all over the place, and I've never hated a place more than Baltimore, MD. Korea, Canada, Japan, Turkey, and Afghanistan all have Baltimore beat. Fuck Baltimore, that place is a shithole.

Wow! I only lived there 5 months and have the same opinion. Of course MD follows CA. Why do the crazies seem to migrate to the coastal ares?

bogus wrote:
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jaa1992 wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:
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jaa1992 wrote:
Caliper spread maybe? Caused by the wobbly bearing?
Try a rebuilt caliper on that side?
Check the mount as well.

If the aluminum caliper is spread, I think it would be cracked or show signs of wear. I just cant see aluminum forged calipers bending. Not that its impossible,

Nope, they spread without any visible signs

I don't have one off the car or I could do some measurements.

Read the rest of the thread - yea, the bad anti-rattle plate messd up the pad alignment. I don't use them anyway

I know the fronts can spread, but can enough heat be generated in the rear? It takes a lot of constant heat to spread these. I know it is possible, but mostly in the fronts, they handle 70% of the stopping force. Hence, 70% of the temperature!

Weavsvet wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:
If your plugs look good, and the car puts a smile on your face at WOT, just enjoy. LOL

I'm smiling at the moment. The truth will be told Saturday at The Rock. Pro track prep and everything!

Weavsvet wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:
Yep, sounds like your ECM isnt sending voltage to one sensor. Is there a spare ECM in your Arsenal.

Several, had this split BLM issue on all of them. Haven't done this voltage test on but the current one though.

bogus wrote:
That was the longest stretch of the King K highway with no traffic. Period.

Churchkey wrote:
Nice find Steve40th.

I recall someone mentioning that the pad may not be seated properly in the caliper :~)

RestoMod57 wrote:
On fire? Yes, that would heat up the aluminum caliper nicely and could cause the spread. If one side heated up from the e-brake, the other side did too, just not to the point of catching fire.

Sorry to bring the bad news. Maybe other Gurus have better advice. Mine is to replace calipers.

RestoMod57 wrote:
You might also check to see if your outer pad is completely seated in the bracket. The hairpin spring should protrude through the caliper opening. Pic attached.

If it's your outside pad that's wearing incorrectly, it may also be your slide pins. Did you say you disassembled the caliper and greased them?

RestoMod57 wrote:
This may be grasping at straws, but have you checked to make sure each caliper has correct inner and outer pads?

The inner pads should have the wear tab indicator on them. And the tab should be closest to the abutment bracket (holds the e-brake cable).

Also measure the pads when installed for parallel. Measure one side then the other. The difference should be no more than 0.15mm. Then measure top to bottom. This seems like where your problem may be.

The picture of your wear says it's probably something other than mis-installed inner and outer pads - but at least you'll eliminate this possibility. Just trying to help.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

Steve40th wrote:
They were broke in and immediately looked like that.
They now have 70 miles on them, half way around my third world world country of Oahu. When I took them out yesteday, the outside pad was already worn. So, it is not flat anymore. The inner pad was flat.

Good, that's not enough to screw up the measurements.

I'd do what Resto said and then pull the pads & mic then compare those measurements to the set of another wheel.

Good luck.

BillH wrote:
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Steve40th wrote:
I did verify the pads were on the right side. The wear indicators were on the inside.
Whats strange is its only that pad, as the other three on the rear are fine.
And when you ask to measure them, is this sliding a feeler gauge in from left to right to verify how far the pad is off the rotor?

I'll assume here but, I think Resto's talking about using a mic with the pads out of the caliper.

And you need to pull the good pads $ measure for reference.

It's always possible that you have a bad pad.

How many miles on them, just break in?

RestoMod57 wrote:
This may be grasping at straws, but have you checked to make sure each caliper has correct inner and outer pads?

The inner pads should have the wear tab indicator on them. And the tab should be closest to the abutment bracket (holds the e-brake cable).

Also measure the pads when installed for parallel. Measure one side then the other. The difference should be no more than 0.15mm. Then measure top to bottom. This seems like where your problem may be.

The picture of your wear says it's probably something other than mis-installed inner and outer pads - but at least you'll eliminate this possibility. Just trying to help.