Become a Fan!
Login
Username:

Password:

Remember Me

Lost Password?

Register now!
Main Menu
Who's Online
153 user(s) are online (113 user(s) are browsing Forums)

more...
Guru Dictionary
Print in friendly format Send this term to a friend  4L60E
1994-1996, the 4L60 with Electronic Control. From what I have seen, it seems a bit more durable....
Supporting Vendors
Platinum
Mid America Motorworks
Mid America Motorworks FREE CATALOG


Gold
FIC 770-888-1662


Registered Vendors
Guru Friends
Supporting Banners

TIRERACK.com - Revolutionizing Tire Buying


Shop for Winter Tires Now!




Support This Site
   All Posts (vetteoz)


« 1 2 3 4 (5) 6 7 8 9 »


Re: 4+3 info
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:
Jeffvette wrote:
Does anybody have detailed pics or exploded diagrams on one of these boxes? Needing to do some planning on prepping a race car.

Trans itself is only common BW Super T10 ( w/unique case ) with short output shaft to mate to O/d unit

http://www.tbtrans.com/t10_transmission.htm

Posted on: 2010/5/23 3:02
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: 700r4 removal questions
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
I disconnect the TV cable at the TB and remove with trans

Posted on: 2010/4/11 0:26
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: knock sensor / lower coolant hole. what thread size?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
There's this hideous, stupid little molded GM hose that tees off the heater outlet and reduces from 3/4" down to 5/8" for the oil cooler plumbing. What the f*** were they thinking.

And that flare is only to fit the 3/4" nipple used on the water pump.If they had changed that fitting then everything would be 5/8" throughout

Posted on: 2010/4/1 7:04
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: c4 turbo
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

383tpimachine wrote: or say an early c4 with an ls3?



[IMG]http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u309/vetteoz/turbo1.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2010/3/17 22:54
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: What is this?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

lindenbob wrote:
Without it you definately have a vacuum leak.

No vac leaks , just means your vent positions will change every time you accelerate as engine vac changes.
Side port goes to a "T" where it splits to cruise and to hard line on inner wheel well to vac ball under drv side headlight

[IMG]http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u309/vetteoz/checkvalve.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2010/3/15 1:52
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: 160 T Stat
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

anesthes wrote:Woah. What application is this!? I know the L98s have no provision for this. Must be a section of code in the LT1 ecm's I wasn't aware of..

O/d engagement on the DNE 4+3 is temp related
Min O/d operating temp varies by year ;
176F on the early cars to 122F on the '87/'88 cars
If temp drops below set point , O/d will kick out or if engine doesn't get hot enough, O/d will never engage.

Posted on: 2010/3/2 13:05
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Rear brake lines ?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:
KEG64 wrote:But it does not show and I can’t figure out is where the lines that go to the LR and RR on the ABS originate.

If you have a early car ,there is only one rear brake line that services both sides through the block you mention
At ABS you have 5 lines ;
Fr/R in from M/c
LF/ RF and rear out
From the block the brake line follows the frame down and goes into the ABS box
If the lines were numbered 1-5 L > R looking from the rear then rear line is # 5

Posted on: 2010/2/27 5:26
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Is the GMPP 845 cam too much for a street driven corvette?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

turbotim23 wrote:
I'm wondering it might be the GMPP 846 instead of the 845? What are the specs to that cam?

GMPP # 846 222/230 .509/.538 w/1.5's 112

Posted on: 2010/2/18 13:03
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Is the GMPP 845 cam too much for a street driven corvette?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
GMPP # 845 214/222 .520/.543 (w/1.6) 112
Pretty mild , not even as big as the popular Hot cam 218/228 .525 (w/1.6) 112

With 3.7's and 3K+ stall ( or manual ) the F-Body guys are running the GMPP # 847 in LT1's
234/242 .539/.558 (w/1.5 ) 112

Posted on: 2010/2/17 22:13
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: pcm upgrade?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:
383tpimachine wrote:SO what all would I need to run an 87+ ecm?

The repining of the ECM connector and addition of the MAF burnoff relays
More viable ( less painfull ) option these days may be to get the complete engine and ECM harness from a wrecked '86- '89 Vette.
Alot more in wrecking yards than when Mike Davis did his conversion write up 10 years ago.
The '165 ECM's go for $30+ on the Forums and you get to sell your rare discontinued '85 MAF unit for $$$

Posted on: 2010/2/14 21:39
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
I use the parking brake and put it in gear. then crack the nut loose before jacking it up.

That is what I did on the 1st one but still needed the pipe ext as noted. Now I drive to a local garage and use a rattle gun to crack it loose

Posted on: 2010/1/17 4:56
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

Jeffvette wrote:
My preferred method is to completely remove the knuckle and do the work on the bench.

Just need tome big wrenches and big sockets. It's a simple task.

How do you hold while you crack that 160 ft/lb rusted on hub nut off ? Took 6ft of water pipe on a breaker bar with the car on ground to get mine loose

Posted on: 2010/1/16 22:05
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: wow
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

pr0zac wrote:
holy god what a pain in the ass these things are to remove and install.

After doing it for 10 years it grows on you.

Posted on: 2010/1/3 11:56
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Drag radials for a c4
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

Aboatguy wrote:.Mickey Thompson Drag Radial 275 45 17 reason hook enough hard and clear rear brakes and maintain top speed stability)

MT ET Streets work for me.
Hook everytime with little if any warming.Usually only a little spin to dry the water off

Posted on: 2009/12/30 7:11
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: A quick quiestion for the techs
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:
NC Kid wrote:Does my C4 spin both or just one?


If the Posi is working correctly ,it should spin both.
If only one wheel spins ,clutches in the Posi( LSD ) are shot

Posted on: 2009/12/26 0:08
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: 1985 Fuel Pump Test Terminal
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:
Jeffvette wrote:
I can hunt this connector down in a ZR-1 blindfolded with boxing gloves on, but can not see it period in this 85. Any details on a location?


I don't know the early cars have one. Never found one on my '87 but my '89 and '90 have them

Quote:
Jeffvette wrote:
Or is this where the test is done on the ALDL?

Put 12V to G on the ALDL
[IMG]http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u309/vetteoz/aldl.gif[/IMG]

Posted on: 2009/12/25 1:57
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Educate me
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:
Josh wrote:I don't have time to read that thread right now, but are you saying that a 36 to 44 swap is a waste of time/not worth it?

jhammons01's rearend Master Tech

"scoffed at how many subscribe to the "switch it out to a D44" advice. He pointed out that the D36 if properly maintained ,it will stand up just fine...even when much larger HP is added to the motor."

Maybe you could enlighten the people how to blow up D44's Josh?

Posted on: 2009/12/17 6:50
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Tachometer. 91 A4 w/performance rear gear
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline

Posted on: 2009/12/15 6:47
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Are there any better locker units for the dana 44HD rearends?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline

Posted on: 2009/12/7 22:39
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: 1985 Drag rims recommendation
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
My 28" x 10" slicks on the same rims fit under with 1/4" to spare but obviously there is no clearance for susp movement as the tire is outside the body line.
If I get the chance I will fit a rim up and see if you could go to a bigger BS to move the wheel in.
I used the 5.5" BS because I got a good deal and they fitted; I did not actually select that BS on purpose

Posted on: 2009/12/5 22:26
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: 1985 Drag rims recommendation
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
I have 15 x10 Welds for my '87 ( same as '85 )
With a 5.5' backspacing they clear everything inside( calipers ) fine BUT they hang out past the guards a little. No rubbing problems with a 26" tall tire .

Posted on: 2009/12/5 6:37
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Removal of the emissions air tubes from the exhaust manifold
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
What year /engine ?

Posted on: 2009/11/29 13:00
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: 4L60e
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Depends on when the housing on the truck trans changed; I believe the later "E's" (LS1's )have a 6 bolt housing ; not 4 bolt like 4L60.

Posted on: 2009/11/20 5:40
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: synchronizing my speedo w/ new rear
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

herman8tr wrote:
Now to find a VSS.


http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=46895&dept_id=1874

25007308 is the GM part # for the required VSS but I can not see it marked on the VSS itself.It is however marked 40 -45 ( the range of gears that fit ) above the wire plug so if you were junk yard shopping you could get one

3.07 rear requires red (17) drive gear and green (42) driven speedo gears .You should already have the red gear on the trans shaft and a white (36) driven gear( for 2.59 )

Posted on: 2009/11/18 3:36
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: LT1 vs L98 (gen1) block dimensions?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:
RedGut86 wrote: Clear as mud?

No
but LT1 is 6" ;china rail to top and TPI is about 9 1/2" to highest point so LT1 intake on ANY SBC in C4 would have 3 1/2" MORE clearance to hood than TPI

HSR is only intake that has C4 clearance problems in unmoddified form

Posted on: 2009/11/14 1:03
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: 700r4 vs.4l60e
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

95vette wrote: I don't think you can swap one into a 93 or earlier as they have ECMs, not PCMs.


Can be done with a expensive GM or aftermarket contoller
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store ... ller-12497316-P722C0.aspx
A quote
"Because the transmission is electronically controlled by the PCM and its requisite wiring, it is usually simplest to join the 4L60-E to the engine it came with from the factory. Earlier engines can be joined to the 4L60-E by use of a GM Controller, #12497316. Individuals converting to earlier engines or engines not controlled by a GM PCM should consider the TH700R-4 as the simpler and cost-conscious alternative."

Posted on: 2009/11/12 22:18
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Can anyone verify the bolt dimensions for the batwing -> differential case?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

jhammons01 wrote:
When I took out all of the bolts, I had to whack the batwing to get it to separate from the case.


That is only the gasket holding the two parts togehter

Posted on: 2009/11/6 23:03
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Can anyone verify the bolt dimensions for the batwing -> differential case?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

mseven wrote:
I ran a tap through the original holes and then used regular class 10 bolts instead of the OEM bolts.


While rebuilding my D44 with some loose but not flogged out threads I found there was 3/8" untapped in the hole so I bottom tapped them and loctited Grade 8 studs in.

Posted on: 2009/11/6 8:04
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Can anyone verify the bolt dimensions for the batwing -> differential case?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
10 x 1.5

Posted on: 2009/11/5 21:55
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: 113 heads valve lift question
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:
Matatk wrote:
I know some guys have run the LT4 hotcam along with springs in the stock 113s.


LT4 / ZZ4 spring worked for me ; under $40 set
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp? ... ion=VIEWPROD&ProdID=24732

$20 for the lightweight LT4 retainers
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp? ... ion=VIEWPROD&ProdID=22758


Quote:

flyboy wrote:
Ask a question and you get nine opinions before someone actually tries to answer the question.


A little knowledge is a dangerous thing

Posted on: 2009/11/2 21:48
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Any special driving technique for data logging?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
You just drive normally and log.Datamaster will record all the sensor outputs
If say you have a problem when accelerating ,do some WOT passes and the review the logs
You open Datamaster and select the log you made.In the bottom RH corner you can select any four parameters to graph against each other.

http://www.powertuneplus.com/syclone/tunersguide_dm.shtm

Say knock retard v revs v mph v spark advance.

The graph will show those four and you can see where you are getting knock under what conditions.You can zoom in down to seconds from a hour long datalog.
Easiler than scrolling through the numbers looking for a change

Posted on: 2009/10/13 21:15
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Can I drive my car home without editing the tune?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

Durango_Boy wrote:
IIt'll lock up at the same speed it did before


But the actual lock up speed will be different because the speedo is off.
I've driving mine without the speedo gear change with no problem; haven't had time to open the trans up and change gears

Posted on: 2009/10/9 0:00
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Stock cast crank question
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

sliding wrote:
I ask because some european engines have stock cranks that are nitrited and if they are machined they are very soft under that thin coating.


Some of the factory over the counter performance cranks are nitrited.I don't believe they are any "softer" underneath than a regular crank seeing as they are listed as same 1053 material.
The grinding concerns comes from removing the hardened surface which puts you back to a regular crank surface unless you get the journals re-nitried after grinding.

Posted on: 2009/10/5 6:23
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: The "will these wheels fit" thread
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

pianoguy wrote:I think the early offset is something like 36mm.

84 -87 (base)
front & rear 16"x8.5" 32mm (6.0" backspacing)
(z51)
front & rear 16"x9.5" 38mm (6.7" backspacing)
To put late C4 wheels on early C4 you need 3/4" adapters

So to run the above mentioned rims on a early rear you need 18 +23 mm ; 40mm = 1 5/8".

The C6 Z06 19" rims are listed as having 56mm offset

Posted on: 2009/10/5 1:49
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: The "will these wheels fit" thread
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
The fronts have the same 56mm offset as the 88-96 cars
The rears are listed as 79mm v 56mm on 88 - 96 rear so that would be 23mm difference

Posted on: 2009/10/5 0:22
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Extending Starter wires?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
Just reroute your positive wire at the battery so that it comes in sideways, not from underneath.

I'm running an 88 starter on my vette right now with the stock 85 starter cable. I had to tweak the end of it a bit to fit the starter terminal, but otherwise it fits fine.


Same here; I have a '90 Vette Denso mini starter on my '87 with original wiring.

Posted on: 2009/10/4 0:03
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Calling Matatk -- Mathew question about your U-Joints
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
The converter is a 9.5" 3000 stall converter from PeteK.


I wouldn't be going too far on that convertor without a cooler; too much heat

Posted on: 2009/10/4 0:01
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Calling Matatk -- Mathew question about your U-Joints
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
Napa even shows different PN for inside and outside Half-shafts?? ARen't they the same?

yes
1350 series on the halfshafts and 1310 series on the DS

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-te ... u-joints-part-number.html

Posted on: 2009/10/3 4:33
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: C4 and roller rockers/need help
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

Vetron87 wrote:
Jon: will stock valve covers fit? I thought about doing this to my 87.. Can you feel any power gain?? Ron


Need to remove the stock drippers from the underside of valve covers and maybe thin the hold down posts dependent apon how wide new rockers are

Posted on: 2009/10/3 2:57
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Questions, always more questions...
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
C5 brakes will fit on a C4, any truth to that?


Contact Jeffvette on this Forum for adapter brackets

https://www.superchevyperformance.com/Articles.asp?ID=124

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-te ... ke-upgrade-done-pics.html

Posted on: 2009/10/1 7:23
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
And the ignition wire feeding the solenoid is purple.


As I noted in post # 3

Posted on: 2009/9/30 2:12
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

grind4it wrote:Are you sure about the battery cable connecting to the starter and the fusible link wires connecting to the solenoid?


As I noted in my first post above; all the power feeds are off the starter terminal in the older cars.
Is there any chance you have lost a terminal off the "spare" red wire.
Reds are nearly always power supply wires

[IMG]http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u309/vetteoz/Starter.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2009/9/29 0:07
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Wheel bearings, why cant C4's get the good stuff too?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Corvette Recycling has OEM Delco rears for $129

http://www.corvetterecycling.com/category_s/432.htm

Posted on: 2009/9/28 6:12
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: rearend problem
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

Randy93 wrote:Also, the straps are not touching the receiving side(not sure of the correct name), might this be a problem, the bolts are tight.


So you are saying the strap that holds the uni cap in is not hard up against the yoke?
If you have the correct uni's and they are seated correctly the strap should be hard up on the yoke with no gap where the bolt goes through

Posted on: 2009/9/27 23:37
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

Durango_Boy wrote:
Generally I use the terminal ends as the road map. The large ring terminals with red wires 'usually' go to the BAT lug. Small wires with small ring terminals go to the smaller lug, and large black wires with large ring terminals bolt to the bell housing. LOL.



This however is a chance for you to tidy up the wiring.
In the early cars all the power feeds (reds with fusible links) come off the terminal on the starter; in later cars from a terminal block on the firewall behind batt.
Lot easier for fault finding if the feeds are upstairs on a block or direct to the Batt+ instead of having to crawl under car.
You end up with only the heavy main starter feed and purple solenoid wire at starter(goes on small terminal on solenoid)
Also in the starter loom you should have the old knock sensor wire (blue ? ) and a green wire going to the old temp switch in head between #6+8

Posted on: 2009/9/27 23:19
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Softer spring rates
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
Try swapping the swaybars 1st.
When I put the heavy duty bars on my, it made it handle a lot better, but the ride is noticeably harsher


I disconnect my front bar at the strip ('87 Z51),one night I forgot to hook it back up and it was a completely different car as far as ride went.The QA1's keep the bounce in control and the ride was almost limo like compared to normal

Posted on: 2009/9/27 8:12
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: 383/DMF considerations
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

rklessdriver wrote:
2. Your machinest should be able to put a DMFW in a lathe and cut the external weight off it if you buy an internal balance crank. If your crank is external balance you should leave it as it is. There is no right or wrong here, everything depends on the crankshaft you buy. I prefer internal balance cranks because I don't like weights hung off the end of the crank on the FW or balancer - but in a street car there is an advantage to keeping it external blance... when you need a new FW, you can just go buy a new one and put it on....



Beaware;
the external balance on a 1 pce seal crank is different to the external balance as used on the 400's which requires a weighted balancer and weighted flywheel.
Some of the stroker kits notably the cheaper ones use this configuration ;essentially a 400 crank with 350 journals

The 1 pce seal crank is ext balance AT rear only ; the front is neutral using any regular ( non 400ci ) balancer

Posted on: 2009/9/27 3:53
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: are all base plates the same?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

iCorvette wrote:
what is a better intake, i have a super ram,


Depends what your end use is.

Check it out; comparision done on a 383 but Hp / torque curves still relevent to each other.
http://www.compcams.com/Community/Art ... Details.asp?ID=1737510521

Their base engine made 400Hp v 250Hp for stock so if you knock 150Hp off all the results would give a ballpark comparision on a 350.

Posted on: 2009/9/25 23:22
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: fuel rail connections
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

Midnight85 wrote:That is correct, I have just bought mine to do away with the rubber factory hoses.


But you made new lines back to the filter ; my personal preference because you can run them across the bellhousing away from heat .
He is extending the stock rubber lines that connect at the front of the TPI so he needs the female metric fittings instead of the male ones you used.

Posted on: 2009/9/22 14:04
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: C3 diff in a C4?
Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/8/6 0:00
Posts: 453
Offline
Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
I'm wondering if I can make one to go from a D44 (or a D36) to a C3

I don't see why not; but would you not use only the modified 12 bolt C3 center with the C4 spindles and dogbones?

Posted on: 2009/9/22 13:58
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer



 Top
« 1 2 3 4 (5) 6 7 8 9 »




CorvetteForum.guru is independently owned and operated. This site is not associated with or financially supported by General Motors.

Copyright 2008-2015 CorvetteForum.guru

CorvetteForum.guru is a Guru Garage Site (Coming Soon!)

If you have any questions about our site, please contact us at Andy@corvetteforum.guru.

Powered by XOOPS 2.56 Copyright 2001-2014 www.xoops.org

Hosted by GoDaddy.com.