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   All Posts (PLRX)


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Re: ~~~3.90 Gears~~~
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Quote:

pianoguy wrote:
Unreal, and what a great attitude they have. Hope they get nothing out of this.

BTW, might be a good time to think about adding a drain plug as long as it's all apart again. Lemonade out of lemons and all that ;-)


I made a dispute with the bank and already credited the amount charged to the CC. I'll never see the cash. I also made a complaint via the BBB.

I already made a drain hole, Thanks

Posted on: 2011/3/21 22:34
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Re: ~~~3.90 Gears~~~
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Just got back from their shop. He assured me it is a new Dana gears and showed me paper work. He stated the edge is grinded for casing clearance. He gave three pancakes about it to the fact he damaged the thread and did not clean up the old RTV.

The CC dispute is in. I need a letter from a third party stating the work they did is faulty, wrong and disputable.

I see this going higher, when that guy sees the money taken away all hell is going to break loose.:D He should have worked it out with me there today.

Posted on: 2011/3/21 20:18
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Re: Always Look Closely-Trans
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good eye Pete

Posted on: 2011/3/21 4:44
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Re: ~~~3.90 Gears~~~
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[color=000066]Let me show you guys the biggest rip off a shop can do to a man.

This is the differential as I started to disassembly it
to install the heli coil. You figure, a shop would clean things up to do everything right.

Look at the batwing bolts full of dirt, GM red RTV and the new black RTV.
[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/3907.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/3908.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/3909.jpg[/IMG]

You figure to clean the surface to have a correct seal. This is why it was already leaking at garage
temperature 66F. Imagine the nightmare at running speeds.
[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39010.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39011.jpg[/IMG]

Dindt clean up inside the pumkin. Pig Farmer shop...
[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39012.jpg[/IMG]

Oh look how I got F'ed...This is supposed to be a "Brand new differential"
[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39013.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39014.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39015.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39017.jpg[/IMG]

Took me few minutes with a small wire brush and carb cleaner.
[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39018.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39019.jpg[/IMG]

Helicoil installed
[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39022.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39023.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/39025.jpg[/IMG]

I guess tomorrow, I have to go there for them to take their used parts and give me my money back



Posted on: 2011/3/21 4:03
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Re: ~~~3.90 Gears~~~
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Quote:

mseven wrote:
In that situation, and If possible, I go 1 bolt size up. If I have to remain at the same size I prefer thread certs insted of using heli-coils.


Txs

Posted on: 2011/3/19 14:51
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Re: ~~~3.90 Gears~~~
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Thanks for the ideas.

I'm thinking about taking it back there but, takes me an hour to get there.

Would a helicoil work there?

I already thought about the next size bolt. This one screws in it just no longer grip.

I still mad, its 11:31 PM and it is the reason that I'm not even close to be sleepy.

Posted on: 2011/3/19 6:31
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Re: ~~~3.90 Gears~~~
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Well, I poured oil in the diff today, I check later on and there is oil moisture at the bottom. I call that an oil leak. I opened the FSM and calls for 30 lbs ft and I find one bolt loose, loose without thread and that tells me the Fg ass-holes at the shop used an airgun to tighten the bolts. Which tells me that the inside and all other outer bolts are over-torqued.

I'm so FFFFF mad, you guys got no idea on how mad I am.

Posted on: 2011/3/19 2:03
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Re: ~~~3.90 Gears~~~
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Ok Gents the 3.90 is finally home. Everything but, the pumpkin and batwing is NEW. The builder recommended me not to use synthetic gear oil. He highly recommended Lucas 85W140. Gave me instruction for a break in and to change the oil around 3,000 miles.

Today I ordered the heavy duty toe rods and poly bushings for the batwing.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/3906.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2011/3/17 22:59
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Re: Southern California C4 Run
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[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/Bomber%20Run/FrakingSucks.gif[/IMG]

The run has to be pushed for March 26th. 50% Rain and 70% for Sunday.

Santa Monica Weekend Weather Forecast - weather.com

Posted on: 2011/3/16 13:33
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Re: Southern California C4 Run
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
We will sadly be out of town... or else we would be there!!! sounds like a blast!

Next time!!!!


I'll try to do another one before it gets hot and there will be another one in the fall.

Posted on: 2011/3/12 7:29
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Re: Southern California C4 Run
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Resized Image

Posted on: 2011/3/12 2:49
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Re: Corvette Script Valve Covers
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
For some reason I don't think they look right on a c4...just me.

Matthew


agree

Posted on: 2011/3/7 19:37
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Re: Southern California C4 Run
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Is anybody coming down?

Posted on: 2011/3/4 22:10
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Southern California C4 Run
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[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/Bomber%20Run/C4BomberRuns.gif[/IMG]

Saturday, March 19, 2011 be ready to show up.

Where?: Santa Monica-Malibu PCH and Canyon Roads. [IMG]http://www.2uptouring.com/images06/Icons/WindingRoad-035px.jpg[/IMG]

Pass the Word :dance:

Update: March 4, 2011

Rally Point: Carls Jr., 887 S. Westlake Blvd, Thousand Oaks

Departure Time: 8:30 AM

Posted on: 2011/3/4 22:08
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Re: My C4 sounds like it has a Quadrajet Carb on it. Listen to this.
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I agree Magnaflows are great outside but the drone wears me out at freeway speeds.

I communicated with a guy via PM about his chambered exhaust and he stated he gets no drone at freeway speeds. Corsa has a great drone reputation and I've regretted not buying it. I will not install LT mufflers tips.

Posted on: 2011/3/2 5:03
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Re: C4 gurus What is the difference in 5.7 350 cid v8 mif (5) ohv and (p) ohv??
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[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Rebuild/CELT4182.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2011/2/25 16:24
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Re: ~~~3.90 Gears~~~
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Quote:

RestoMod57 wrote:
Looks like you have a Dana 44. I rebuilt my Dana 36 a little while ago - it's not difficult. Since you already have a shop press, that's the big tool for this job.

I think CC did this too, but not sure. Anyway, you also need a dial indicator, digital caliper, snap-ring pliers, bearing splitter, and large sockets. I think $300-$350 is about right for tools. Then you have the cost of the gears, and I would recommend you buy a master rebuild kit as well. While you're in there you may as well replace all bearings and seals.

There are two chapters in my book that detail this procedure completely. Send me a PM and I'll email you the chapters - just to help out a fellow guru. But if you don't want to tackle this, no big deal.

As bogus said though, be prepared to spend time fitting and re-fitting the shims for proper setup. PM me if you want the chapters.

Steve M.


Thanks Steve, PM Sent

Posted on: 2011/2/23 18:03
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Chevrolet 1914-2010
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http://www.lov2xlr8.no/chevy.html

I know you'll like it!!

Posted on: 2011/2/23 5:06
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Re: Video of My '71 Today
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Nice Shark!!

Posted on: 2011/2/23 1:52
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Re: ~~~3.90 Gears~~~
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Quote:

pianoguy wrote:
Are you having a shop set it up for you?


Oh yes, I have never done a diff. I dont even have the required tools to dial that bad boy. I would like to learn, this would make a great rep for anyone specially if you drop the labor co$t on it.

Posted on: 2011/2/23 0:02
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Re: ~~~3.90 Gears~~~
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It is no picnic to remove that SOB, the price is no picnic either. I figure, you take a Vette to the shop they will hammer you on labor to remove/install the differential. Add parts and labor for the gears.

Remember, everything started when I discovered the bad trailing arms' bushings.

Posted on: 2011/2/22 22:38
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~~~3.90 Gears~~~
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The only one thing I did not mess with it, it's now a "must do". There is play on the driver's side yoke and it has to be fixed. If I dont fix it, it will start leaking gear oil and on the long run I'll have to do it anyways. I figure if it has to be fixed, this is the time for me to upgrade. Its a 3.45 from factory, the 4.10 I read many different opinions and a 3.73 is only 0.28 difference. I figure a 3.90 would give me a change like the the 3.07 gives to the 2.59 on the automatics transmission. My 92 was a 2.59 but, my 95 is a 3.07 and the second I stepped on it I knew there was something different and once I got on the freeway I confirmed it.

I think the 3.90 would eliminate some of the Magnaflow drone I get on the freeway.

I already removed most of the suspension components to remove the trailing arms and knuckle. Today I removed the exhaust, emergency cable, disconnected the driveshaft's U-joint and removed the C-Beam's bolts. Thanks to the ZFDoc's plates that was easy.



I got the whole assembly off, I got no idea how the
heck I'll put back in there b ut, I'll let you guys know.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/390.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/3901.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/3902.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/3903.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/3904.jpg[/IMG]

I'll leave there hanging until I get paid in few days. :D
This part received an enourmous amount of abuse and I was able to pick it up
with my hands. I can't do that with the ZF transmission.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/390/3905.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2011/2/22 22:18
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Re: ZF6 Transmission removal with short shifter
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watch out for low oil pressure sensor near the firewall.

Posted on: 2011/2/21 3:24
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Re: C4 frame flex
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Resized Image

will these bars work?

Posted on: 2011/2/18 3:49
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Re: 96 Corvettes with Fiberglass Trailing Arms Please Read
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Here it is finally got some time to download and load etc etc

This is where the play is:

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Suspension/Bushing%20Failure/BushingFailure.jpg[/IMG]

Look at the gap inside the bushing. A reminder that VBP requested for me to send these TAs back
to them for them to properly install the correct bushing.

[I]Key words: properly install the proper part.[/I]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Suspension/Bushing%20Failure/BushingFailure1.jpg[/IMG]

The trailing arm measures at 34.70 mm.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Suspension/Bushing%20Failure/BushingFailure2.jpg[/IMG]

The bushings are way short at 28.61 mm.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Suspension/Bushing%20Failure/BushingFailure4.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Suspension/Bushing%20Failure/BushingFailure5.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Suspension/Bushing%20Failure/BushingFailure6.jpg[/IMG]

I looked at the bushing very closely and found more defects. Looks like "they" don't really
had the correct part for the 1996 Corvette TAs. They had to patch it up so they grabbed an
already made bushing not for a Corvette and cut it up with a utility knife and made the hole
for the sleeve bigger. The bushing structure was compromised plus the gap inside didn't help.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Suspension/Bushing%20Failure/BushingFailure7.jpg[/IMG]

yes, I know. Gimp doesn't do spell check:leaving:

What bothers me? Bothers me that I ordered for a 96 at the time a 12 year old car. Not like
I was the very first person ordering poly bushings for a Vette.

Bothers me that I had to pay shipping to send the TAs to Florida for their mistake.

Bothers me that they sent them ready to be installed with the sleeve in and bothered me
even more I didn't checked it.

Bothers me that this could have ended up in an accident with the high possibility of me
going down a cliff or crash on a mountain.

Bothers me that this could have been other guy that is not mechanically inclined and he would
have to pay a mechanic to fix this mess.

I get to save on labor but, I loose my time, lost money and had to postpone my alignment.

If you have a 96 and you installed bushings from this company get up and check
on your Corvette now!!!

The company is a CF Supporting Vendor so I'm not going to bash them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IjU7Ha17BQ

Posted on: 2011/2/12 3:04
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Re: 96 Corvettes with Fiberglass Trailing Arms Please Read
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Quote:

pr0zac wrote:
i just realized the other day that those things are fiberglass on my car.. i always thought they were aluminum.


All but, 1996. I think it was a change to mule the F45 system. Thats going to change, the new ones are already in-route.

Posted on: 2011/2/11 17:24
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96 Corvettes with Fiberglass Trailing Arms Please Read
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If you ever purchased aftermarket bushings from VB&P for your 96 with fiberglass trailing arms (TA) read this post.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Suspension/CELT4113.jpg[/IMG]

If you have the fiberglass TA you may ran into an issue that the bushings were too small for the trailing arms.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Suspension/CELT4117.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Suspension/CELT4118.jpg[/IMG]

Likely you called the vendor and they convinced you to mail them the TAs to VB&P in Florida for them to make "custom" bushings. Check on your Vette's rear, if you have play and the bearings are good there is a possibility (100% on my case) that your bushings are gone.

My bushings are two years old, not even 10,000 miles and are gone, ripped. Why? because they did a band aid job, they just tapped the TA with the head of some bushing and stuck the hallow rod leaving an empty space in the center of the trailing arms bolt area.

I ordered adjustable new trailing arms from Van Steel, I'm not going to deal with them again.

Check your Vette, be safe

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRXIcon.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2011/2/11 2:33
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Re: SPC Upper Control Arms (UCA) Installation
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You can not expand the UCA's thread longer than an inch. I calculated the size and alignment and installed 9-1/8" shims. Thats why I had to use shims without shims the UCA would expand longer than an inch.

They come without instructions but, I searched and found them.

Posted on: 2011/2/10 1:24
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SPC Upper Control Arms (UCA) Installation
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First, I'd like to thank Brian Cinnungham for his help on this project.[IMG]http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss111/quigonjinn1/thumbup1.gif[/IMG]

About a year ago I bought the SPC's Upper Control Arms. Few days ago I finally decided to
remove them from the living room and get them installed.

Lift Vette, place jackstands, remove tires, remove dust shield and remove upper ball joint

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA.jpg[/IMG]

Cleaned the ball joint

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA1.jpg[/IMG]

Remove the UPC

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA2.jpg[/IMG]

Test the new BJ bolts.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA3.jpg[/IMG]

Match to fit the new UPC with the old one.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA4.jpg[/IMG]

Using 1/8" shims, match the size of shims and spacers.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA5.jpg[/IMG]

I used krazy glue to keep shims together.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA6.jpg[/IMG]

Test to fit, Check-

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA7.jpg[/IMG]

Installed shims, Torque UPC bolts to 40 lbs-ft.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA8.jpg[/IMG]

Torque BJ bolts to 13 lbs-ft

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA9.jpg[/IMG]

Torque the three pivot bolts to 60 lbs-ftf.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA10.jpg[/IMG]

Grease up the UPC.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA11.jpg[/IMG]

Torque the upper BJ between 50~88 lbs-ft or until the cotter pin hole aligns.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA12.jpg[/IMG]

Drove around the neighborhood for about a mile to get things down.

Quick but, not official alignment. Good enough at "-0.50" Camber to make it to
the alignment shop.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA13.jpg[/IMG]

Very easy to make adjustments

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/SPCUCA/SPCUCA14.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2011/2/9 4:19
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Re: [SoCal] Exhaust Shop
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Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
There's no such thing as a bolt-on exhaust system that fits!




I've done those three times and you are right. Specially the Magnaflow on my 96. Its too big (3") and the pipes touch all over the place. A hammer did the trick.

Posted on: 2011/1/29 6:26
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Re: Helpful tip: how to hide the smell of a stripper in your C4.
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I only ride with clean strippers

Posted on: 2011/1/28 3:42
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Re: Anyone install heat shielding under the car in the transmission tunnel?
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Quote:

Steve40th wrote:
I like the idea of the 3M high temp contact cement.
Does it really adhere that good. If So I will be doing it soon then as my floor boards get warm.


I agree, I wish I did that with my 96. The Magnaflow Cats come without heat shields. I wrapped them with heat wrap and that reduced a lot of the heat problem but, it still gets warm down there.

Posted on: 2011/1/28 3:41
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Re: Best way to pull this motor
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
Remove the transmission.

Then remove the bell housing.

Then remove the engine. The clutch can come off after you get the engine out. With the accessories all off, it will work.

With the hood on, there just isn't the room to pull with trans installed, and the trans won't separate from the engine easily.

This is the best route... expect about 90 minutes, less if you have ever dropped the tranny.


agree

Thats the way I did it

A Happy Hooker will help. You can buy it fro TPIS.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Rebuild/LT4Rebuild88.jpg[/IMG]

I got a question. Few of you say that you did not remove the tranny. On a manual tranny, how did you get the spline back in with the tranny + C-beam on place?

Posted on: 2011/1/28 3:38
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Re: Control Arm Shaft Torque ?
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Quote:

jsncable wrote:
I've looked for two hours now, in the service manual and on the internet and cannot find the torque spec for the upper control arm shaft nuts. I've replaced the upper bushings and need to reinstall..

Thanks,
Jason

1984


That's aluminum, 40 lbs-ft.

I've done it 5 times and I'm alive. Ensure you use red thread locker.

Posted on: 2011/1/26 5:18
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Re: Southern California C4 Run
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Its a Vette Forum.

Posted on: 2011/1/24 5:00
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Re: Southern California C4 Run
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I do two-three runs a year. Likely, October/November 2011

Posted on: 2011/1/23 21:26
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Southern California C4 Run
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Posted on: 2011/1/23 17:08
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Re: Detroit New Car Show
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I like the Caddy!!

Posted on: 2011/1/19 15:51
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Re: Front Suspension Diagram
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One thing, ensure you use red loctite on the upper wishbones nuts (big). Torque all four to 40 lbs-ft. I upgraded to poly and found out they were coming out loose.

Posted on: 2011/1/19 2:28
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Re: [SoCal Social] It's time for one! UPDATED! Time/Date/Location!!!
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Is always great to meet and chat face-to-face with Corvette owners, specially C4 owners. Chow was good and lots of interest topics specially "the butane AC"!!

I wish I live closer, driving home was tough.

Posted on: 2011/1/17 15:44
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Re: [SoCal Social] It's time for one! UPDATED! Time/Date/Location!!!
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Todays' Weather

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/DSC05084.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2011/1/16 23:33
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Re: [SoCal Social] It's time for one! UPDATED! Time/Date/Location!!!
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I've never see 93%

Posted on: 2011/1/16 20:51
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Re: [SoCal Social] It's time for one! UPDATED! Time/Date/Location!!!
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I should be able to make it. I need some Tylenol, Aleeve and Motrin.

Yesterday, I dropped my DD's rear suspension to change the bushings. My back (press) is killing me.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/Focus/PolyBushings1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/Focus/PolyBushings3.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2011/1/16 15:45
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Re: Collector Edition LT4 Build Up
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I forgot to post the video clip






http://youtu.be/FiVjfH0mOi4

Posted on: 2011/1/15 4:49
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Re: Collector Edition LT4 Build Up
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Quote:

Raidmagic wrote:
Great write up great job. That car was worth bringing back to life.
I have to admit though, you freaked me out with the normal hammer on the piston install. You got me. :D



Posted on: 2011/1/15 3:42
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Re: Carbon Fiber Interiors
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Raidmagic wrote:
Looks great, you should send them your radio trim kit and have it done too.


That was a SNAFU. I may buy the 3M kit and do a budget DIY

Posted on: 2011/1/15 3:10
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Re: Carbon Fiber Interiors
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Quote:

NC Kid wrote:
Photobucket


Nice!

Posted on: 2011/1/15 1:32
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Re: Collector Edition LT4 Build Up
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
Ditto, very nice work, Pete.

I like your fast idle cam, that's exactly what we use on the carbed racecars (no choke/fast idle).

The wet RTV, yea. I quit using RTV about 5 years ago on engines & gearboxes. All I use is the Right Stuff. I really like the way it works.


I wish I knew its a good product. I didnt buy it at the time because I didnt know anything about it.

Next time, my LT1 is at 107,000 miles. If I dont sell her, I'll do the same surgery + 4L60E rebuild on it.

Posted on: 2011/1/15 1:31
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Re: [SoCal Social] It's time for one! UPDATED! Time/Date/Location!!!
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Quote:

NC Kid wrote:
I wish I lived closer to cali. I would be good company for Bogus and his family.


I got to Vettes, fly into Ontario and you can drive my 95 LT1

Posted on: 2011/1/15 1:28
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Re: C4 Coilovers Modification (Front & Rears)
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
Sorry, Pete, we're kinda hijacking your thread.
Jon, if you want to further discuss, we should probably start a new thread.


Its all good!

FYI, I used the OEM end links so, there is no pre-load. I guess by me using the word geometry I F-it up.

What I meant is that if you get one end link bolted and you drop the LCA it will be difficult to get the other end link bolted....not impossible but a PITA yes.

Posted on: 2011/1/14 21:42
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