First I'd like to thank Brian Cunningham, he had helped me since day 1 of the LT4 Project.:cheers:

The Vette is a bit higher than before (the spoiler does not scrapes the driveway :D). I set the rebound and compression using Van Steel's settings and went for a drive today. The Vette feel bumpier on the local streets but once I got to drive by the mountains I was hooked:smiliedrool:. WOW, the Vette is more responsive, moves better and it sticks to the curves in a way that I've never experienced on any Vette.

This is an expensive upgrade that requires patience. Patience to relocate the front sway bar, to relocate the upper shock mount and patience to find out again that [COLOR="Red"][B]"NOTHING IS BOLT-ON" [/B][/COLOR]. BUT, It is an expensive upgrade that I highly recommend if you [B]like to DRIVE your Vette[/B]:thumbs:.

If you would go for it and live in SoCal, send me a PM or e-mail me. [IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/Funny/Wrench-2.gif[/IMG]

I started last week and all was going smooth but...

Here it goes:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:


Jack up the Vette

Remove Tires

Place jacks on the LCA. This is to allow the removal of the shocks and sway bar.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF.jpg[/IMG]

Loose the sway bar

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF1.jpg[/IMG]

Remove shocks

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF2.jpg[/IMG]

Loose the lower ball-joint

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF3.jpg[/IMG]

I placed a small jack on the lug nut just to hold the hub and the UPC high enough for the monospring to be removed.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF4.jpg[/IMG]

Remove/slide the monospring. If you have an OEM you will not be able to do this.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF5.jpg[/IMG]

Shocks and monospring ready for the future (a 3rd C4 :D).

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF6.jpg[/IMG]

Ready for Coilovers.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF7.jpg[/IMG]

If it wasn't for the sway bar relocation BS. It was going to be that easy but...

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF8.jpg[/IMG]

A week after I PM few guys, read old threads, called Van Steel and made a final decision today at 1:00 PM.

3/8" holes

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF9.jpg[/IMG]

This was maybe, the big call. I did not want to make an ugly cut (sorry) and decided to make a hole/circle to insert the nut and locking washers.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF10.jpg[/IMG]

That is how it looks inside. [B]I was wrong, there is no plate.[/B]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF11.jpg[/IMG]

It is easier than it looks...trust me.:yesnod:

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF12.jpg[/IMG]

At ride height...

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF13.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF14.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF15.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF16.jpg[/IMG]

All components were hand tight and will be torqued to specs next day.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF17.jpg[/IMG]

Here I go. Got the right hardware

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF19.jpg[/IMG]

Believe it or not all these for $2.94

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF20.jpg[/IMG]



Coat of paint-

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF21.jpg[/IMG]

Dave suggested a cap but I could not find one and it will be covered by the inner fender.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Front/CoiloversF22.jpg[/IMG]

The rear was pretty easy.

Lift and jack up the Vette.

Remove tires.

Remove monospring. Four bolts at the pumpking

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Rear/CoiloversR3.jpg[/IMG]

and a bolt at each knuckle.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Rear/CoiloversR2.jpg[/IMG]


Remove shocks.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Rear/CoiloversR.jpg[/IMG]

Remove mounting plate from shocks (upper). You need to re-use the plates for the coilovers.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Rear/CoiloversR1.jpg[/IMG]



No frame modification required.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Rear/CoiloversR1.jpg[/IMG]

You can't see it here but, I flipped the upper connecting rod's bolt.
It cleared but it was a bit too close for my taste.. Just being safe. :thumbs:

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Rear/CoiloversR5.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Rear/CoiloversR6.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Rear/CoiloversR7.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Rear/CoiloversR8.jpg[/IMG]

Rear Compression and rebound settings done for my driving needs.

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Rear/CoiloversR9.jpg[/IMG]



Final look

[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/plrx/PLRX%20LT4/Coilovers%20Rear/CoiloversR10.jpg[/IMG]

What are the spring rates? Looks good.

I am so close to doing this. Is the front sway bar in a different spot on the later cars? The reading I've done didn't require moving that.It does require more work on the shock tower for an early car though.

Looks great.

To expand on Raidmagics question, why must the sway bar be relocated?

The results look FANTASTIC! Great job!!! I want to do coil overs... but with a slightly softer sprint rate. Whatever you are using, -20 or 30lbs.

Adjust the firmness back in with the shock itself.

Question... How does the swaybar relocation effect those stupid end links?

Do they bind more or less? I have a helluva time getting the holes lined up to get the bolts in, on jackstands or level ground.

Quote:

I dont remember, I'll have to look at the springs or paperwork but, they are for advanced street use.

The way those babies handle, I would be conformable with going auto crossing with them.

Quote:

The QA1 coilover fits right on the shock tower without any modification and it does not rub.

The sway needed to be relocated 5/8" forward.

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The trick is to let the frame on jack-stands and you have to raise the lower control arm to the sway bar hole. Once you get one side done, stick a third jack-stand or a jack underneath and install the second sway bar bolt.

DO NOT lower the first side, it will misalign the sway bar's geometry..(I think )

Have you done the Banski rear suspension kit yet? That would about round out this package beautifully!

BTW, what did you use to glue those wedges on the leaf spring? Looks like it held up fine.

Quote:

It's a VBP monospring, they came glued.

nice job!

Quote:

Very nice, quality work.

The sway bar's geometry wouldn't be affected by lowering the first side since it rotates in the bushings. If keeping it on a jackstand while jacking up the other a-arm makes the bolts go in easier, that's certainly the way to do it.

The problem with the bars is the non-adjustable links. In a perfect world, using adjustable links, the car would be on the floor at ride height with driver weight in the seat. With one side attached, the other could be adjusted so that the bolts go in easily. This assures that there's no load on the bar at rest.

Since that's not possible with the stock setup, getting the bolts in the easiest way is the best way.

Quote:

Forget messing with endlinks, all that does is change your preload. We're fabbing an adjustable sway bar (3 position) this winter for my car. If it works well maybe we'll make more.

I'll tell you after the first race on April 8...

Quote:

Jon, there should be no preload, zero. If you have adjustable end links and you're getting preload, something's wrong.

Sorry, Pete, we're kinda hijacking your thread.
Jon, if you want to further discuss, we should probably start a new thread.

Quote:

Its all good!

FYI, I used the OEM end links so, there is no pre-load. I guess by me using the word geometry I F-it up.

What I meant is that if you get one end link bolted and you drop the LCA it will be difficult to get the other end link bolted....not impossible but a PITA yes.

I'm glad it worked out for you.

Man, it looks like the only real modification is the sway bar. Am I missing something. Nothing is this easy on a C4, LOL.
I just did Coil overs on a C5. NEVER AGAIN, as we did poly bushings too. NEVER AGAIN~!
Also, what is the diameter of those springs on the front?