Matatk wrote:

Just send 'em over here, Ray, I'll be happy to test them out for you

Matthew

383tpimachine wrote:
My parts sure are sexy just need a weekend to put them on

bogus wrote:
80 PSI all the time? It tells me that the sender is bad.

BrianCunningham wrote:
They have a Corvette Club
http://www.ukusaengines.co.uk/cccuk_specials.asp

dan0617 wrote:
There is also a company making them to fit under the stock C4 hood right now but their name eludes my memory. Search on CF for them. Getting it from them will likely be more expensive but it will be complete, bolt on and go.

CentralCoaster wrote:
Whoa..... slow down, this is doable.

You will need to open up the cluster and remove the rear circuit board to get to the LCD panes. The rear board is tricky as it's held in by a row of pins to the front board which can be very difficult to pull lose. Unscrew it and then try wriggling that rear board loose from those pins...

When you get that board off, the front board comes off next. Now, there's some pink/orangish rubbery strips in there that are surrounded with plastic retainers, these make contact with the LCD panes which are simply clamped against them when the front board is screwed in.

I would try removing the pane in question and gently clean the edges where these strips contacts it. It may be stuck to the pane, but don't worry, it's not glued on or anything, and if you carefully loosen it it won't hurt anything. If you actually touch the contact points on the strips, you'll notice parts of the lcd panes light up! Ok, probably not a good idea to screw with that too much.

Anyhow, upon assembly, double and triple check that you get the panels in correctly, it's tricky to get them seated flush and get all the rubber spacers in properly.

midlifecrisis wrote:
Speaking from experience with my '95 C60 (manual A/C) this may differ greatly from your '85.

midlifecrisis wrote:
But check the 12v signal from the control head. If it isn't there, you may have an open circuit transistor. OR a busted rotary switch.

CentralCoaster wrote:
Here's the pages from the electrical manual.

I didn't see any ecm connection whatsoever.

There's an output TO the ecm, but I believe that's only so the ecm can raise the idle.

Jeffvette wrote:
Ray, they are a dark gray color. I refinished them for Dan. And also refinished the red C6 calipers. Caliper for either the C5 or C6 calipers is 110, and the abutment is around 40 if I remember correctly.

I can pretty mush say if you have the Series I Dymags, the brakes won't fit. The spokes sit in and will hit the face of the caliper.

Jeffvette wrote:
Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:

Jeff, are the C6 base brackets and rotors any different than the C5?

No, same size. 13" rotor, and the caliper uses the same pad. You can upgrade to the C6 Z51 if you have the wheel space which gives you a 13.4" rotor. You just need to supplement the Z51 abutment bracket.

Mekanic wrote:
No problem Ray, sorry about the mixup.

When I called the shop and told Jon he said "*sigh* It couldn't have been the guy in Michigan could it?"

haha

Mekanic wrote:
I don't have any more in stock, so I gave your address to my supplier and he will be drop shipping them to you when he sends mine

Mekanic wrote:
Quote:

rayquayle wrote:
Quote:

Oh no! Yes, I'll get on that right now.

Thanks a lot, Rich.

Can you get mail directly to you in england? If so post up your address there and I'll send em out on monday.

Oh no! Yes, I'll get on that right now.

Mekanic wrote:
We have those for you, and we only ship USPS Priority unless otherwise specified, I don't know if there is extra costs for shipping to an APO.

For the 24's I reccomend the Bosch Design III's in our rebuilt line.

3 year no questions warranty, viton o-rings installed, and flow matched. Also comes with the full gasket kit needed for the job, as well as the fuel rail o-rings.

$219.95

waynedawg wrote:
Tried the door and hatch switches,lights still on,also saw that the rear light by the spare tire is on.Is there anywhere I can get a scimatic for the radio and light circuit?

astock165 wrote:
Just updated some of the pics in the OP to reflect the safety washers we have put in place on the kit.

I also have a set of boots on the way for fitment. If they work I hope to have them shortly.

Mekanic wrote:

No problem at all, I hope you enjoy them. Let me know if there is anything I can do for you.

I would love to tell you that they will be there soon, but I have no idea lol. THey should be in NY by wed. tho

Mekanic wrote:
No problem at all, invoice has been sent. Free shipping applies

Mekanic wrote:
Sounds great Ray, but if possible could you walk me through the shipping process to an APO, this is the first time I've done 1. The customs declaration is normal for us, but I just want to be sure you get your injectors haha.

Also, is the address on your paypal account the APO box that we will be shipping to? If not I need the address.

~Rich

I'll find out about shipping costs first thing in the morning. After that if you want to pay via paypal, I will need the email address linked to your paypal account, then I can send an invoice.

~Rich

Quote:

rayquayle wrote:
It would be great if you could offer these boots as an option. One stop shopping makes it so much easier.

Ray: I'll look into offering the boots ... good idea.

Mekanic wrote:
We have those for you, and we only ship USPS Priority unless otherwise specified, I don't know if there is extra costs for shipping to an APO.

For the 24's I reccomend the Bosch Design III's in our rebuilt line.

3 year no questions warranty, viton o-rings installed, and flow matched. Also comes with the full gasket kit needed for the job, as well as the fuel rail o-rings.

$219.95

MTVette wrote:
It must be the kind with the security screw. If you carefully look at the rear wheels in the picture of my car, they are the same as those in the picture you posted. Also, since my wheels aren't new and shiny, I'm looking for some used caps, if possible. Certainly not glossy ones, maybe something with a matte finish.

astock165 wrote:
The easiest way is to use a rod end boot.

They can typically be had from a vendor like Seals It

astock165 wrote:
Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote: Nice! Is it worth retrofitting the ones I bought? If so, how much?

I'll contact you offline via email.

when I reviewed the 84 manual, it was clear that if the resistor failed, the fan will run.

Check both, but I would bet the resistor is toast. They don't last forever!

He's determined it's one of the two blower relays.

Relationships (i.e. bogus and his wife) cannot be found in the FSM......

jhammons01 wrote:
I spoke with CC on the phone ( CC is my Corvette 911) and we were thinking it was a fusible link. BUT that being said, where do I start with this one??