Danspeed1 wrote:
Ahhhh!!! So there is no way of putting the linkage back on without the valve body off. I was so careful to make sure all the checkballs were in the right place and all the bolts were torqued to the right spec!!!

Its possible I did stretch one of the bolts. I will head over to GM and see what they say as far as part #'s.

Dan

CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
Yes, thats how its meant to work, ive never tried it, dont know anyone that has yet. The issue here is how will the O2 sensor see this and effect the fuel? Will it still want to pump in the same amount of juice? Will this stuff cause excess wear because it has no lubricating properties whatso ever?

aapple wrote:
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toptechx6 wrote:
Based on the crude adjustment procedure recommended by aapple I'd agree, don't adjust the bands, you are very likely to fry them. However if you follow the correct adjustment procedure listed below it should prolong the life of your transmission, your call.

Gee....I guess I should just quit my job of 30 years and do something else...eh?

Thanks for the offer, I really appreciate your help. But like you said, shipping it to Canada would probably even out the discount or cost more. I managed to find the oil pan for about $50 which is alot cheaper then the dealer. I figured since I'm in there i'll replace the filters, so I bought them too.

When I made an appointment today I asked thenm if it would be covered. He said that if it looks like its rusted from the inside it should be covered. But if its rusted from the outside then probably not.

Well I've been in a few times for repairs. I hope its covered because in my opinion an oil pan shouldn't rust up like this in 5 years. If it's not covered I'll replace it myself for alot cheaper then the dealer would.

I was going by what my dad and brother said at the time. I assumed they were right... I was only 10 and they knew a lot more than I did! and researching the emissions on a 70s volare is about impossible.

bogus wrote:
back in the 1970s, many cars had vacuum pumps, because the emissions controls stole so much of the vacuum. My dad's 76 aspen (a real POS) had one.

JDSWHITE93 wrote:
I think the Corsa sounds good too and as you know I was going to order one. I found this set up and 3" stainless for $653.00 delivered I had to try it. I am anxious to get it on there. I'll share my thoughts next week. It should sound good on my car the only real issue is how much will it resonate, magnaflow said it will not. I don't mind some noise in the cabin it was the droning of the flowmasters when taking off from a stop that made me crazy, that and the 3.73 gears put the rpms into the drone zone on the highway.

jsup wrote:
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toptechx6 wrote:
You can remove #2 from the list, that might cause oil consumption, but isn't going to cause loss of oil pressure.

HEAT is causing loss of pressure. Perhaps the rings are causing the heat if they haven't seated.

The problem is heat, then loss of OP. Not loss of OP without heat.

CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
In the whole time you were here Jimmy, i never thought of you as a god botherer

Randy93 wrote:
Top, I cant thank you enough for your help on Saturday.
I am still getting the 28, do you think it is still the a/c cluch wiring being exposed?

Code I got on the way back from your house were, 26, 28 and 32.
I just got the evap solenoid today, so I hope the 26 goes away and the 32, well that is going to have to wait till I have time to take off the intake and clean the EGR opening.

And one more thing, on the way back the car started running terrible. It was backfiring on acceleration and deacceleration really bad and I am smelling gas.
The car has been running rich, but now I have no power to speak of and the 13 code did not come back.
Also, got CCM codes 13 and 41, havent had time to look those up yet.

Thanks again!!!!

DaleD wrote:
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toptechx6 wrote:
I agree with CC that the it sounds like the distributor was not indexed correctly by the person who removed it previously, that is likely the reason installing the wires on the cap "correctly" now results in it actually being out of time.
Ideally the distributor should be removed and reinstalled correctly, however the car did run so it can be made to do so again by simply "dead timing" the engine without distributor removal, for now lets just try to make that happen. Indexing it correctly might be a better lesson for next semester.
You indicate you have a Haynes manual, assuming mine is the same, check page 2A-10 for the procedure to locate TDC for number 1 cylinder (for now ignore steps 4 & 5) if the rotor ends up pointing toward the firewall assume that is TDC on the exhaust stroke as in step 8, make sure you have found TCD on the compression stroke. You will need to clean off the vibration damper and timing plate so you can see and align the mark.
Once you have located TDC for #1 simply install the wires on the cap in the correct firing order starting with #1 at the location closest to where the rotor is pointing.(don't forget to reconnect the BATT wire to the distributor)
If it does NOT start once you do the above, next try holding the pedal to the floor while cranking. This is "clear flood" mode and prevents the injectors from firing, it is possible the many short cranking attempts so far have wet the plugs with fuel, once it does start of course release the pedal to prevent over revving, again good luck.

I have a Haynes manual. Mine has different page numbers, but I found it. Page 64 in mine, go figure.
There was something I didn't quite understand about finding TDC. It said line up the timing mark, take off the cap, and if the rotor isn't pointing to #1, (I guess they assume you know where #1 is located!), then rotate the motor 360. At least that's how I read it.
So, I lined up the mark with the scale. My scale is rusted, so I just got the mark somewhere within the boundry of the scale. Took off the cap, and the rotor was pointing at the connector to the right of the plug block. I took pics of my cap, rotor position and timing mark position in case I got into big trouble. I also noticed, my distributor cap is aligned almost identical to the picture in my Haynes book, so maybe that isn't a problem?
I put the cap back on and put #1 where the rotor was pointed. BINGO! It started. It was enough to make a grown man cry, (not really, but it was very nice).
It's running rich. But it's running. I need to re-route the wiring, and put the looms on, but it was too late to screw with that tonight. I knew only bad would come of that!

I have 3 questions:

First: I'm pretty sure #1 moved during this tune up. Not positive, because I'm a dumbass, but I'm pretty sure it moved. How can that be?

Second: I know the rotor and cap were pretty old, but the plugs and wires I took off were decent. Does it make sense that changing these items would cause the timing shift and have the car running rich?

Third: I bought wire looms that connect to the valve covers with new center bolts. How critical is the torque on those?

And finally, thanks to all. It's a lonely feeling when your car is broken. It's really nice to have a place where folks help you out. I'm not mechanic, but maybe one day I can return a favor.

CasetheCorvetteman wrote:
Thanks people!! I still havent seen it myself yet.

bogus wrote:
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toptechx6 wrote:
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TommyT-Bone wrote:
A responsible buyer would have had the car checked out by a qualified mechanic before the sale. Just ask me. I never do that and always end up paying for it later.

The point is NO 16 year old is a responsible buyer, most states consider a 16 year old a child. They CANNOT enter a contract, give permission to engage in sex or accept other adult responsibilities. Expecting a 16 year old to make wise decisions is naive.
Some may be capable of doing so but it does not change the fact that most don't.

say what? Most states age of consent is still 16.

The rest is correct.

But I think we are missing a point here... and that is, to me, the issues that have arisen on this car are not connected to abuse. They are connected to age and bad timing.

We haven't heard from the kid... and when I was 16, I took care of my stuff, knowing that a replacment wasn't always forthcoming. Hell, I could have saved the cash myself and I still wouldn't be allowed to use it. Trust me, I am on the other end of the spectrum to that kid with the Caddy and Denali...

TommyT-Bone wrote:
A responsible buyer would have had the car checked out by a qualified mechanic before the sale. Just ask me. I never do that and always end up paying for it later.

Z51 wrote:
i talked to one of my friends in the corvette club friday,a nd she ran into the kid that bought my 84 corvette, and i guess hes complaining about it now... i guess the front,a nd rear main seals are leaking, the head gaskets are blown out, the intake is leaking, and a bunch of other stuff are worn out, and i guess the total in damages are in the range of 5K.... stupid 16 year old, i babied that car for 3 years, and never had one problem with it... he has it for almost 2 months,a nd blows it up... i hate to see another abused corvette... i told him when i left it in his possesion... take really good care of her, and don't beat on her... i guess he wasn't listening too well



poor silver bullet
R.I.P