What type of mileage are you guys getting out these Nittos (555Rs or NTO5s) and MTs?

Nice times, you are gonna fly with spray.

Yep, the probable reason for the lack of info is that 84s (auto or manual) did not come with a D44. In 85, manuals started coming standard with the D44.

Otherwise as Jeffvette said, no difference.

Definitely watching this one. I agree these look much much better than the other headlight kits I have seen.

Congrats!

I'll have to go pick up a copy.

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Sounds like it is running good but if you do go back in, I've found for the engine running method, cutting a piece of 6-8" tall cardboard to fit in the head makes it a lot less messy.

As for pre-load, I've heard everything from 0 lash to 1/2 turn. I usually just try to look up the lash specs on the lifters and go from there. If you are really at 1/2 lash I bet you'll be fine.

Wow, that doesn't seem like ridiculous power and in a 400, impressive that the whole webbing ripped out. It would be interesting to watch how that progressed.

Guess the SHP block makes more and more sense.

Almost there, just take out those useless cylinders and you have a budget lightweight 400 block that weighs what an Al block does. Suck on that.

Seriously though, what the hell happened there. The uniformity of the damage is what is most frightening. Butchered 4 bolt conversion? Story?

Wow, see that is what I would think a company would want to do, instead I am getting blown off and talking to tech guys with 0 answers.

Yeah, I went down to Pleasanton, CA Saturday for the annual GoodGuys Novemeber show. The makers of the intake in question were supposed to show, they never did. So now I am out 4hrs of driving and admission and parking fees with no gain. Don't get me wrong, there were lots of nice cars and such, but we have local car shows...I drove just to see them since they said on their website and told me on the phone they would be there... Rant off...

I know this intake has been done on CF, but I think this is possible on an L98 car (his was LT1) and I have different ideas on how to get it to work, which hopefully make it more accessible to the common wrencher. (AKA no welding and cutting off the tab etc)

Anyway, yeah, I would do that but I wouldn't fit their bill. 383, big heads, open exhaust so forth so on. I'm currently on a SuperRam and looking for more RPM but I'd rather jump to 7" runners instead of 3.5" runners since they would better fit the RPM range I am looking for. Thanks for the tip though.

__Well, the jig is on. I'll be mocking it up hopefully soon.

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I'm beginning to think more and more I should just suck it up and go with a MiniRam and be done with it!

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Haha, I appreciate your honesty.

This is not an LT1 swap and the HSR isn't the only manifold that won't fit untouched...I think. I would love to be proved wrong, but I'm going to go see the manifold in question this weekend so..... I want to have my facts right!



Also, the clearance to the hood is variable depending on who you ask and where they measure. Where it matters most to me is at the front china wall and it appears to be 9.00-9.10 inches of clearance at that point. If you know it to be 9.5 at the front china wall, please let me know the year of your Vette!

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Nope, no LT1 intake. Though maybe if it doesn't work.

I'm just looking at hood clearance-intake measurements and I need to know if (subtracting the height of the lt1 intake) I can use measurements for hood clearance from an LT1 car to predict (+my intake height) hood clearance.

Clear as mud?

Intake swap, still a gen1 sbc.

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Ok, that is essentially what I am getting at.


Matak, yeah, if Andy chimes in that would be great. My car is an 86. It would be nice if we had more clearance...but I'm sure it will be the other way around.



Thanks!

I was just curious, especially with respect to the height at which the intake mounts, if there is a difference between the LT1 and the L98 blocks.

What I am really trying to get at here, is if there is a difference in hood clearance with a genII LT1 or a genI SBC, and if so, which has more hood clearance in a C4?

Any ideas? (I always assumed it was the same...but that was an assumption.)

EDIT for clarity: Hood clearance, as in between the china wall/intake mounting point and the hood.

Further EDIT: This is not an LT1 manifold swap.

I'm interested where you go no matter what. I've heard a lot of internet chatter about the valve control issues and people proactively choosing to run stiffer springs, or claiming the Xfi lobes are tough on valve springs. However, I haven't seen any proof (or in person) the valve control issues. Make sure comp has your exact specs and if they say you should be fine, well, perhaps you are fine. What did you say max RPM is? If it is 5500 rpm or so, they might be thinking you won't see valve float.

I'd be curious to see how they work with your springs (which I wouldn't consider very high of pressures) however I don't want you to bust a spring either!

CC, that is very cool.

So the beehives aren't required right?

The beehives advantage is reduced mass which with a big lift, fast ramp cam like the XFIs is important. But I've also heard that the XFI cams just beat up valve springs and a dual spring when one fails, you still have another one, with beehives one goes and wave bye!

I take it you are using the duals that come on the head right?

This is different form early C4s but *I think* (its been a year or so) I was able to unbolt those frame braces and it made putting the pan in a lot easier.

They look different on my 86 and they were bolted on both ends.

(For future reference, since it sounds like you got it pretty much done.)

I'm confused, are your heads already cut? Why not just run a flatop or lesser dish piston and not cut the heads.

Or is this because you are fitting up SBC heads on an LT1 or something?

I'm impressed. That turned out well.

Duke Langley?

Yep, he comes out to our local club (WA) and whoops up sometimes.

Good luck!

What is your response?

Supercharger, exhaust, heim-joint banski stuff, CCWs with new race rubber (worth a LOT)?

I haven't seen the break yet, knock on wood, can you post a pic of the broken pedal assembly?

I curious of where and what you could do to help prevent it.

My 4pt roll bar made a very significant change in chassis stiffness. You could feel it but you could also see it when you went to jack up the front of the car and the rear came up too!

I got lucky I guess and got a whole setup with billet distributor for 200 or so. I wanted to get it so I could use the rev-limiter so I don't have to sweat the rpm when I leave the car in 1st gear for auto-crosses.

Been about 3 years and knock on wood, no issues yet.

I wouldn't say it gives power, but piece of mind and the 6AL-2 2step would be nice.

I had posted a new thread, as to not take it too much off topic. But it looks on topic now. I am just curious as to how bad the air distribution difference is between front and rear ports? I mean, and this may be advertising, but Edelbrock says they make 15-20hp more on their tunnel ram front fed intake over their single plane style intake everytime. Perhaps the air distribution issues are not as bad as the single plane can have similar issues with pulse interference in the common small plenum (at least it can with carbs.)

I'd think all manifolds have some issues.

Isn't LD85 (his CF handle, I think he is on here too) running a HSR on a 406?

So, this is something I've mulled over a bit and seems relevant to the other thread in determining the best intake, I just didn't want to hijack that thread. None of this is empirical just random thoughts and bits of information.

1) The single plane is better for air distribution. (Stock computer this is helpful, aftermarket could tune by bank to make up for issues. Really though how big of an issues is this for an N/A build? Obviously this is a bigger issue for NOS.)

2) Edelbrock says they make more power with their tunnel ram style (XT similar to the HSR) manifold than their single plane conversion.

3) Edelbrock says the stock (read: un-ported) manifold, not the kit, as the injectors are too small) is good for 600-650hp. Is this when a single plane takes over (I would think it would need porting as well for this.)

4) When you see these aftermarket intakes (Hogan/Marcella) then why are they essentially tunnel ram intakes? Is it due to customers demanding a front fed system or is it maybe that there is more to the tunnel ram style intake. (More optimal tuned length, better runner shape, taper etc..


Anyone have any thoughts on this? Just looking for a little discussion.

I get what you are saying.

I haven't done it, but I have pondered it and am in a similar boat. I love how my exhaust sounds most of the time, but there are times, where I'd like to quiet it down a bit. (Say leaving at the butt crack of dawn for a day of racing...as I do like my neighbors and for the time being they still seem to like me!)

My thoughts on this are:
1) Buy a spare set of the mufflers off of a C6 (2.5" inlet, I think) or Z06 (3" inlet, I think). As long as they fit, which is another question altogether as the tips are mounted at the bottom of the oval.

Not mine btw:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-Z ... uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/09-Cor ... uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


2) The second option I've been thinking of, is getting my brother (brilliant w/ electronics) to wire up a simple dial switch running off of the tach signal that at the dialed in RPM sends 12v to a motorized butterfly valve that you install in one of the tips of the mufflers. Therefore you set the RPM they open at, 0 RPM always open, 3500RPM opening, or say 7000RPM open (aka closed/quiet.) However besides talking about it, we haven't pursued this.

In yours and my case, the other tip of the muffler would need to probably be plugged somewhat, but who knows, maybe knocking out half of the tips on the magnaflow would quiet it down enough.

You would have to bastardize you beautiful magnaflows and weld something like this in between the end of the muffler and the end of the tip.

These are 3" I don't know what size you would need for the magnaflow tips.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/QTP-DU ... uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Is that what you were thinking?

I agree, also the u-joints were replaced 2k miles or so ago.

I'll check to see if I have forward/aft movement.

Thanks!

(Did you have vibration throughout the RPM band or just at a certain range?)

Ohh, recent maitenance. The only thing I can think of is I went from a bronze oil-impregnated pilot bearing to a roller bushing, started to hear some whining, swapped back. (Turns out it is the throwout bearing... of course, I decided not to swap it, it was practically brand new ~1500miles.)

So the throwout still makes a little tiny squeak when the clutch is not depressed otherwise nothing changed at all.

Sorry for the delayed reply, got very busy at work for a bit there.

The vibration is engine speed related and occurs in neutral as well as in gear.

It is most noticeable slowly climbing through 2nd gear (when I romp on it, well there is a lot going on and fast) and 3rd gear I hardly do slowly just due to the speeds. However, like I said, it happens in neutral as well.

383 w/ a 400 external balance crank, I don't recall this happening in the beginning. I doubt I wouldn't notice it but it is hard to say the motor has about 2500 miles in 4 years or so because I rarely get a chance to play with it.

I was thinking it was the balancer however, would checking the timing show that?

It could be one of the exhaust heat shields I suppose...

I'll try and take a video next time I have a chance to screw around with it. Here is a clip of trying out 5200rpm as the shift point, and forgive me, it is my wife's camera duct taped to my sweatshirt (haha) however as expected it made for a crappy mount and mostly you see my crotch. A little embarrassing and stupid, I need to get a roll bar mount set up but oh well, if it helps... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iht1fw9TqYM

The car runs well and you can't really see or hear the vibration here, like I said I am hypersensitive. But there is definitely something going on in that 2000rpm or so window. If it is a balancer starting to wear out, I'd rather catch it sooner than later.

Thanks for all the help so far guys!

I have the VBP Xtremes (Morocco valving actually) and they are good. I got them from VBP for cheap and they perform great, though I'd do the set of 4 all at once.

They also sell the z51 valving there too, so you can have direct replacements.

http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=783

$70/shock for z51 replacements

http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=811

$50/shock for KYBs

I shift at 5.8k and the vibe definitely comes in around 4-4.5k and goes away by 5k.

It isn't bad and I'll admit I am hypersensitive to sounds and vibrations with this car, but there is something there.

It is externally balanced.

Anyone ever experienced something like this where the vibration was localized to only a ~2k rpm band?

TIA

Did you have a vibration?

(What does a vibration from a slipping damper even show up as?)