Looks nice, Jeff.

Yeah, it really is a pain in the ass job. I've changed the fuel filter once on my 86 and 95. I took my 95 to get a wheel alignment and they charged me $16 to install a fuel filter. Worth it IMO.

I swapped the one in my 92 in about 30 minutes. Fairly easy project. Glad to hear everything is working normally.

Glad to see you made it.

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Yeah, I was about to say that your car doesn't have a mass aiflow sensor. Until you get a factory service manual for a 90 Corvette, you are just searching for a needle in a hay stack. I highly doubt the ECM or CCM is failing.

Your going to have to take the door panel off and investigate.

Jan 10th @ 1:37pm.

I'm usually on here in the evenings and most of the night when I work. Not much of a morning person.

The leakage current should not exceed 50 ma. You need to disconnect the neg cable from the battery. Place an ampmeter in line with the battery and cable. Pull the courtesy light fuse so you can have the passenger side door open to do the tests. Start pulling fuses until you notice a greather than 50 ma draw. If it occurs, that is the circuit you need to trace. If you have an amplifier, radar detector, aftermarket alarm disconnect them before hand. Make sure the hood lights, console door light, and vanity mirror lights are off.

If all the fuses check out ok, start removing the fusible links behind the battery one at a time, on the early model C4's, while watching the ampmeter.

I traced my drain down to the driverside seat motor.

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Get the car up and make sure the exhaust not too close to anything. Usually in the lower RPM (1,500-2,500) range the exhaust vibrates.

New Orleans is about an hour drive away, but no one knows where Bogalusa is. :tongue:

Not too much of a post hound. #39 for me.

Glad to hear Casey. I'll have to pick one up.

Chuck, I am pretty sure those lines are machined/pressed in from the factory and can not be removed. I had my rail in pieces last year and that was the only part that did not come loose.

I would get one.

Seems like I remember you having a lot of problems on the other forum.. Along with answering the other questions, I see you mentioned damage to the header.

Is there a exhaust leak befor the O2 sensor on that side?

You sure you guys want me to post a picture of my tool?

Try taking the throttle body off and remove the IAC from it's housing. Use a old toothbrush and throttle body cleaner and clean as much carbon build up as you can. Don't for get to clean the IAC passages to the throttle body. Make sure on the IAC that the tip of the pintle is no further than 1/8" from the flange or damage can occur.

Do you hear any hissing noises or does the idle fluctuate?
How old are the injectors and do you have a fuel pressure gauge and ohm meter?

OH, what year model are we talking about? 1992?

Frank, haven't seen you in awhile. Glad your here.

I agree. Those numbers aren't horrible. Keep driving it.

I'm glad there is a C4 resto section. Been needing one these for awhile.

IBTL

Same name without the space inbetween.

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It's not that we don't want to help. I can't understand much of anything you are typing. If I can't read it, I can't help...it's that simple.

Glad to hear is was a easy fix. Sometimes the easy ones will make you pull your hair out.

Glad to see it again. :tongue:

Good luck with it. Love to see some pics after the install.

Yeah, a lot of work. Nice pictures.

I agree with Jim. Looks like this shop has replaced a lot of parts and a few have nothing to do with fuel in the oil unless it was requested. I'd give them one more shot at diagnosing it.

Good to see you made back.

Check your thread in the other forum.

No problem. Maybe someone else can chime in with some other suggestions. If they don't have a FSM for a 91, by all means..let them use it.

Glad to see you here.

Yes, raw fuel or very rich exhaust can ruin a catalytic converter, fairly quickly. Do you still have precats?

I would let them check the plug wires in association with firing order The FSM give good info on this and even the crappy Haynes has some info. Find out if they pull the dist. If so, they might want to get #1 clyinder to TDC (HB at 0*) and take the cap off and make sure the rotor is pointing towards #1 cylinder. My 86 was out of time and it caused the "little power and backfiring" situation...sure you remember reading about it. These are very easy steps to take and require very basic tools and cheaper than replacing a cat that imight be good. IMO

Is fuel still in the oil?

Wonder if they disturbed the timing? Did they take the intake manifold off and reseal it, as I noticed they replaced "unreadable" intake gasket. Most likely just the plenum and runner gaskets because of replacing the injectors. If the intake manifold was taken off, they might have not installed the dist correctly. Ask them about that.

They could do a exhaust backpressure test to determine if the cat is flowing correctly.

pappyfreebird, had a hard time reading your post. The SES (Service Engine Soon) light will come on when the key is turned to the ON position but should go off after the engine is started. Just wondering if the light stays on and if you have pulled any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes).

Yeah, don't purchase used injectors unless you can get them at a good price and turn around and spend money having them cleaned and serviced. I have purchased a set of used 88 vette injectors and had them serviced. When I got them back, the service sheet said they were actually good before I shipped them. Just rather be safe than sorry especially going through the work to tear apart and install.

It never even crossed my mind to look at the original date. Just noticed it and started blabbing away. Guess the car is most likely fixed by now. :silent:

Wonder if the code was present before replacing the opti and ICM? It was stated that it is a history code. Yes, it would help to find out what module this code is in as well.

Might want to clear the codes and see if it comes back. I assume the battery was disconnected while the opti was installed and this should result in a current code.

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Now we are getting somewhere. I have no refrence to a 94 DTC's, but if this is the correct code, it needs to be looked into. I imagine there is no spark with this code. A FSM would show the troubleshooting steps to take to find and fix the problem. Who's got it? If nothing else, someone just take a pic of the page in the FSM and post it. I would still try and troubleshoot the code first.

The Opti spark can most definetly be installed 180* out and you still get spark. Did you have to force it on? Get the #1 piston at TDC and it should have the arrow on the harmonic balancer at 12 o'clock position on compression stroke. If not, you will have to pull the opti and reinstall

Might want to also make sure the injectors are getting the ref pulses. This is done with a noid light. The light should blink with cranking or with the engine running.

Fix the code first. If you are getting fuel, spark, and air...at the right time, the engine should start.

I bet the problem is in the tune.

Use the fuel pressure gauge to see if the fuel pressure drops when you nail the gas pedel or if the pressure bleeds or quickly after the engine is shut off. Might be a good idea to test the fuel injectors hot and cold to see if the injector coils are in good shape.

The 84 uses the temp sender in the right head and grounds the wire to turn the fan on. Only C4 that doesn't use the ECM to ground the fan. Also the temp sender for the digital gauge is on the opposite side on the 84 and 85 than for the 86+.

Check and make sure the wire for the temp sender in the right head is not grounded somwhere. If not, look for a switch inside the car for a manual override. Does the SES light blink when the key is turned on or does the SEs light come on when the key is ON?

Count me in!!

Yeah, thanks Andy. I haven't been much help here yet, but will visit more often. Looks like things have picked up.

Hey Casey, long time no see. Sorry I can't help with locating the injectors as I don't have that size lying around or know anyone here locally with a set. However you can probably get the tune just right without having to purchase a AFPR.

A blocked cat is a good suggestion since there is no feedback from the original poster. Also if the voltage of the TPS does not show smooth increase in throttle postion it could be cutting out.

Just noticed this thread was started about 2 months ago.