I remember someone getting an oil pan made but cannot seem to find the thread.

I am looking into getting one build with a bigger capacity than stock with scrapers, windage tray, and a oil drain back already built in.

Thanks for the help

wasn't that biggrizzly?

Whichever one Don has, he's not happy with - it hangs down too low and hits things. Not a good feature in an oil pan.

I know Will has recommended Champ Pans out of WI before.

I believe it was a Champ pan. I will wait to see if he posts to confirm. I know it looked very nice and he was happy with it

No No No.... The Champ Oil Pan is awesome. Its my Derale Transmission Pan that hangs down too low.

The Champ Pan I have is one of their standard Road Race Pans for LT1 engines but with some extra bungs here and there.

There are some drawbacks to having a larger capacity oil pan. The biggest drawback being that if you have an A4 transmission you will need to re-route your trans lines or do what I did and install braided lines.

The other drawback is that access to the starter and other things is severely limited. Also the oil level sender needs to be omitted or modified or the bung installed in the front of the kickout. If not, the oil level sender will rub against the header. I omitted the oil level sender altogether as I can easily check my oil on a regular basis. If I have a ruptured pan and a sudden loss of oil I think there will be other indicators other than the idiot light on the DIC.

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I plan to swap a T56 so the A4 lines will not be an issue.
Did you go with a larger capacity?
I would like more oil as I will be feeding a supercharger and believe this will allow oil temps to stay down.

Oil level lights come on when it is to late so that will not be an issue.

I will keep Champ on my list of to buy parts.

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Yes. My pan is an 8qt with the wipers and trap doors. There are two kickouts on each side of the pan to provide more capacity.

Photos Here

https://picasaweb.google.com/105703016 ... /ChampPanSBCRoadRacingPan

I think this is the correct pan but a phone call would fix the question

http://www.champpans.com/index.cfm?event=productdetail&id=199

You have been a great help and that is much cheaper than I expected.

Do you run a gasket? How much did it weigh?

The Champ Pans PN: CP100LTRB-RR is a good budget pan. The sump is 7" deep so it's a perfect fit for the C4 Corvette. 8 quart oil capacity. Has lots of nice features for the $$$$. I used a Champ pan on Nolands 96 (the blackharleyman 383 LT4 build on CF a few yrs ago) and Don (biggrizzley) has the same pan.

I have 2 notes with the pan. Neither really big deals or anything - just informational notes because these are racing oil pans and we are using them on mostly street cars

1. I do have a problem with where they locate the (optional) oil level sensor. Puts the wiring connector right up next to the header if you have long tubes. We figured out how to easily modify the connector to make it work but I still don't like it..... I wish they would put the sensor in the forward agled part of the sump kick out but they don't....

2. The windage tray is HUGE. It's great for oil control but it's not so great for re-using the factory dipstick. You will need to drill a small hole, thenslot it slightly in the windage tray for the dipstick to pass thru.

Here are a few pics of the Champ Pan













The other custom built oil pan option is Competition Componets out of Clearwater, KS. Company is owned by Larry Pankrats and he is a one man show. Larry has done our racing engine oil pans since the 1980's. All he does is build oil pans and he's very good at it. This pan is about $100-$150 more expensive than the Champ Pan. It's also a good bit nicer. I have one on my 92. It's 7" deep and 7 quart oil capacty but I run 6 quarts for drag racing and Larry told me his door systems is so good I could run as little as 4 quarts if I really needed to.

This pan has the same problem with the factory dipstick but the scraper and windage tray is a different design so you can bend the dipstick tube and dipstick in a way that it will slide past the side of them and go into the oil sump.

I personally did not care about the factory oil level sensor and didn't even ask if he could get the bung to install one....

Here are a few pics of the Competition Componets pan.













Both are good pans. It really comes down to how nice of a pan you want and what you want to spend.
Will

What a timely thread.
Looks like three options for a road race pan for my 383:
Champ
Competition Componnents
Canton

Decisions, decisions, decisions.
I need to look at my IM's because I think someone gave me another one to look at.

I am following this thread too... one day, I will be doing this project!

I used the Champ pan on my car. It looks nice and I feel good about having a higher capacity. I omitted the oil level sensor. The starter wasn't a problem to install, but was a tighter fit.

For looks alone and the higher oil capacity I am siding with the Champ pan. I will also be running the oil through a cooler and a supercharger so I think a high oil capacity will help keep the temperature down.

Thanks for all of the help.

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Consider moving your oil filter as well. If you're adding an adapter in that location to route a cooler inline you can move the oil filter somewhere more convenient to replace...

If you're not sure what I mean I can snap some pictures.

Please do.

Also a good cooler you would recommend?

This is the 8 Qt pan I been run on my 383 for the last year I been very happy with it and great price.

http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.ph ... id=817&cat=7951769&page=3

I also removed the stock Oil cooler and put in A better oil cooler.

http://www.competitionproducts.com/De ... -V8/productinfo/DER15503/

Thats a heck of a price!
Having just spent a small fortune on the timing chain for my 383 this may be an option.

Do you spend any time autocrossing or road racing your car?

No it just my fun street car I have thought about take out on a track day just to seee what it can do.

It my Dad's toy at least thats what I tell my family Dad's car.

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How is the fitment and everything on that? Problems with headers or starter?

Did you use a stock oil pump? Were there clearance differences with the pickup?

Matthew

I running a High Volume pump and a extra oil cooler in front of the radiator you want to use a oil pan that holds more oil a stock 5qt pan will run dry with a high volume pump I also grove my distribetor housing to get more oil on the Camshaft gear for better lubacation and drilled a .005 hole it the front oil plug to get more oil on the timing chain gear set thats why I runing a HV oil pump.

As for the Pick up The oil pan comes with a oil pick up but once the motor is in the car you can't get the oil pan off unless you bend the pick up it go's into the oil pan kick out on the Passenger side.

I put a oil pick up that sits center of the pan just in case.
(I had one from the 355 motor that use to be in the car).

I also think the stock pick up should still work But if you use a HV oil pump make sure you get a pick up for it.

I have used a stock type Starter will fit but it went bad now using a Jegs Mini starter it can handle up to 12.5 to 1 compression much easyer to ge in a out if needed.

As for headers I running TPIS full lenght headers they clear fine I also run the Auto trans line on the top side of the oil pan kick out with no issues either.

You can run the stock cooler that runs to the Stock cooling system and a extra oil cooler but you must use a short filter I think I still have the part Numbers still if you need them the stock filter with both cooler will sit about 3/4 below the bottom of the oil pan.

I ran this set up on my 355 motor, I removed the stock cooler on the 383.
(I had problems with hot oil with the 383 I dont know because I removed the stock Oil cooler thats when I installed the aftermarket oil coller Now it nomaly runs 13 to 20 dergees more than the water temp. I also using a Champion 3 core radiator the car use to get hot up[ on the HWY I think it dur to the 383 and weather during the summer time it gets hot out here 104 Plus.
But in the winter time it run on the cool side.)

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