Year of car? Front or rear? (I'm guessing rear) We shouldn't have to look up the sequence to see WTF you're talking about. I've torqued my heads with the engine in the car 2 or 3 times. I don't recall any major issues.

with the lube, 60 ftlbs is probably 90.

no problem there.

I saw your thread over at CF with no answers. nice. very nice.

When using ARP bolts follow ARP specs

When using OEM bolts use OEM specs. OEM bolts on LT1 can only be used once and require a special angle torqueing method.

ARP are reuseable and more friendly

I followed the preparation and torque instructions to the "T" according to ARP.

Wasn't that a movie -- Thats like "The World According ARP"

When using OEM bolts use OEM specs. OEM bolts on LT1 can only be used once and require a special angle torqueing method."

ARP are reuseable and more friendly

Quote:

When using OEM bolts use OEM specs. OEM bolts on LT1 can only be used once and require a special angle torqueing method."

Quote:

ARP are reuseable and more friendly

ARP bolts are not torque to yield (TTY).

RACE ON!!!

ARP uses torque to yield? Interesting.

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ARP uses torque to yield? Interesting.

Here are the specifics of ARP's torquing recommendations for their SBC head bolts.
If using their moly-lube, or their moly-lube sealer (which should be used on SBCs) they torque to 60 lb-ft. If using anything else, they must be torqued to 75 lb-ft. Interesting, huh? In my case, the bolt set came with their lube but not the sealing lube. Kind of stupid since nearly all of the bolt holes of the Chevy go into the water jacket, and so should be sealed. So I bought their sealer lube separately. A sizeable container good for many times of use was only about $7.00 through my local speed shop.

My bolts came with neither - I used thier moly lube on the underside of the bolt heads and washers. And then used thier white sealant on the threads. It's kind of like trying to keep your peas out of your corn at supper! LOL

I have to reinstall my ARP head bolts and I don't have any documentation- Does ARP state you must torque the bolts down five times to prestretch them?

I have to reinstall my ARP head bolts and I don't have any documentation- Does ARP state you must torque the bolts down five times to prestretch them?

biggrizzly, you do need to roll the threads in on new ARP bolts. On mine, I used lube and torqued the heads down by the bolt sequence. Then, I started with bolt 1, loosened and retorqued it 5 times, then took it out, installed permatex thread sealer (I heard of problems with leakage on ARP thread sealer, but it may be fine), lube under the bolt head and washer, then torqued the bolt down the final time. Then I went on to bolt number 2, and 3, and right through the sequence. I was surprised at, after the bolt is torqued down the first time, when you loosen it and torque it the second time, how much farther the wrench circles around to reach that torque.

I torqued mine down to 70, but I have an L98, not an LT1. I think it called for 60 with the ARP sealer so I went to 70 since I used permatex sealer. It felt like I could have went to 100 with the ARP bolts and cleaned threads in the block. (Intake on the L98 is another story, I couldn't get 1 single bolt to torque to the recommended 35lbs and had to heli-coil some holes and settled for 22 lbs, but that is another story) Also if you do it my way make sure you torque to final setting right after installing the permatex because if you wait it becomes harder to reach the torque setting as the sealer "sets up"

No problem, glad to help. You might be safe with 1 retorqueing but I think you are better off doing what you said. I have no experience good or bad with ARP sealer but I heard a few bad experiences. Camaroz28 members had a few too. I never heard bad about permatex thread sealer so I used that. Laying on the bench it seems like it never sets up but if you torque a bolt then try to retorque it the next day you can put 10 more lbs on it and it still won't move. Has to be the sealer set up. That is why I did all my thread rolling with lube, then cleaned it off and used fresh thread sealer on the threads and lube under the head and washer for the final torque. I haven't finished the intake install yet as I'm waiting on the plenum, so I haven't fired mine yet to see how it worked, but I think I did the right thing.

As a side note, if you ever remove the heads again the bolts are re-usable and you do not need to roll in the threads after the bolts have been used.