I was told not to do it, i didn't have the money for Banski.

too late, I dropped a nut for the the passenger top control arm down the side of the frame rail. in that small hole, it is in the bottom of the frame rail trapped.

there are holes there to allow room for a wrench I saw them and though I was careful, I struggled with it, because the holes end to end on the top trailing rod, are too far apart

why is that? the length of the control arm is not long enough,as it seems HELP!!

2 problems!!

They are two different lengths. Be sure not to have them mixed up. You may have to put some pressure on the hub to raise it up to put the bolts back in.

If you have a strong magnet you can run it along the frame, towards the hole it was dropped into.

different I know doing one at a time, regretting it.

now trying to take bracket off, no socket fits it, what the heck size is it?

17mm no

11/16 no

3/4 no
19mm no

help!

I cannot remember the size. Try an 18mm. I can check mine in about an hour when I get home.

try a magnet on a stick

Btdt. Bendable magnet tool from autoparts store was able to reach it. There's a few different types. I bought all of them and one worked even without bending it.

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It is an 18mm.

Thanks had to walk to autozone to buy the 18mm, I was able to magnet it out from the bottom hole after I took off the bracket phew.. what a mess still a mess.

control arm all in on the pass side, had to unbolt the spring on that side.

now the bushings are too wide for the camber bar, how do I shave it down? and everything is sticky from the marine grease...

thanks in advance!

calling it quits for the night

How much wider are they? If it isn't much, squeeze them with a vice or c-clamp while they are installed in the camber bar.

no can do, they are fully seated and about 1/16 on each side too thick...and I messed up the old rubber, taking them out...

and I really don't have any heavy duty tools...I have files, but this is mickey mouse...

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Can you put the bolts in with big flat washers on either side, and tighten them up. The poly will compress, so you won't have to try cutting them.

the sleeve for the camber adjustment, is a huge chunk of metal firstly, prolly doesn't matter.

I will try in the morning, but I don't think the polys will stay compressed, they are made to spring back no?

at first I thought from reading at cf, too much grease inside will hydro lock the bushings outward, causing what I am experiencing now.

so I clean most of it off and the bushing sit the same flush with the arm...

I wonder if energy suspension has a clue to this problem...

You should be able to squeeze the polys in enough to fit it in the bracket. There's nothing to squirt them out other than excess grease. Did you insert the bushings first, then the metal sleeve?

With that said, if the bushing shoulder isn't pretty much flush with the inner sleeve, they will bind up if you tighten them too much on the car. You simply won't be able to torque them to spec.

If that happens, your fix is to either leave them a little loose to allow rotation (with slop), or grind the aluminum arms down so the bushings slide in further, or shave the bushing shoulders down by that amount, or shim or fabricate a longer metal sleeve, or throw it in the garbage and get a banski kit.

you sure know how to spend my money,I have no 1k for Banski are you the same central coaster on the CF? I read over there you ground down the arms, you are very clever.

and no I can't squeeze down the bushings, how? in this scenario the sleeve will be shorter and the dysfunction of that pivot is unacceptable. longer sleeve is no remedy either.

yes bushings first then sleeve, the other way one side of the bushing would not seat all the way.

is it not leaving it loose contrary to the 150~200 ft lbs of torque on the cam bolt as per Haynes required to keep it together at speed, the grease got on the threads is that bad?

the aluminum is remarkably light, it's like nothing, is BANSKI heavier? regardless, getting off track. I had to file some of it smooth to fix the small gouges when I went caveman on the one of the rubber bushings.

I think I will do what you did and file down the arms, I see it easier to do faster and correctly than trying to file/cut/grind down the polys...will try in the morning and this job is WAY too much for me...in over my head.

Where are you?? I mean, SoCal is such a big place.

Get a large C clamp and two large washers. Squeeze the bushings in tight, then quickly take the clamp/washers off and slip the arm into place on the car. The bushings will expand quickly, but not so quick that you can't get them in place before they do.

I am in the Pasadena area...

I think forcing them in is like over stuffing a cheap trash bag full of sloppy wet rancid kitchen trash, no good can come out of even a short trip.

my oatmeal and keyboard, now, cover.... me I'm going in.....

I am in Torrance... and have a nearly small scale machine shop in my garage... lathe, vertical mill/drill press and a hydraulic press. If you can get this thing back on the road and down here, we can get the next round fixed easier.

Or, bring the poly bushings down that are currently giving problems, machine them down a bit, plus the other ones.

I am available tomorrow and Sunday.

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Yup, that's why I took the aluminum down a bit. I used my bench grinder to get a nice even surface. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pick one up for $60 or so if you don't have one, it'll pay for itself in frustration saved.

Or with a lathe, modifying the bushings might be the way to go if you're squeamish about defiling your car, assuming they cut easily.. you'd only have to do one side if the shoulder is thick enough. Obviously you'd want all the suspension pieces at the shop or whatever to test fit them.

You actually understand how the bushings work, congrats. I found that to be rare when seeking advice on this exact issue. I'd feel bad for you if you hadn't already read all the stuff posted prior. :tongue:

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Done, thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it for the fronts, new control arms and maybe global west stuff, course we could put in the del alm or poly's first, then do the car another time...

of course I will not accept gratis job, if have time in the spring, and would like to help me , I would like to compensate you for your expertise...

thanks again.

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I resculpted camber rod ends the other arms fit fine, about 1mm on each side, great idea, filed, then finer file, then emery to a luster, unfortunately, the last cam nut end was a little tight, I got tired of it all; and pushed it in, other wise, it's done, took a shake down ride and oops, a little stiff will go to studio city tonight... see how that trip feels..


BTW, what are the rear alignment specs? should I do fronts and rears or just rear?

and is there a " performance spec" vs. factory spec, I really am just after good tire mileage first and traction second.....

thanks gents for the help!!

I think you mean to say delrin for the fronts.

Anyhow, check vettebrakes website for alignment specs, they have a few different ones on there. (vb&p)

Reducing front toe to near zero will improve handling at the expense of stability on the highway. The big one is probably camber. Excess camber is great if you corner hard, but otherwise is just a waste of tires.

As for caster, I just maxed mine out on both sides by putting the upper control arm shims all on the front bolt, and then removing them or adding to the rear bolt as needed to get the camber I wanted.

Couple different grinders and all kinds of abrasives here, shoot over if you need to. Could polish those suckers while they are off, too.

Oh now that's just a terrible idea Ron. You want him to be afraid to drive in the rain like you?

I can't polish aluminum... need blast cabinet... whimpy compressor... sad state of affairs.

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He, He.

It's time, $700 will get you there.

Didn't want to start a new one, my car sits alot higher now, is it stock height now? some my my bushings were shot, the cam bolt ones were bad, and most were deformed, some were crumbly...

I am afraid to align it and have it settle...

comments please and thanks again

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You need to drive it to settle the suspension after having it up in the air. Bushings make no difference to the ride height.

If it sits higher it's because the bushings are binding up.

Even with proper sleeve length, the rear end forces some of the bushings to pivot on 2 axes, especially the camber arms, so those will bind a little.

Some people say to torque them at ride height. My answer is how without a lift? And why? Sounds like a hackjob way of getting around the fact that they aren't rotating freely like they should. I think that's also the same reason people say their car rides so harshly with polys in.

I read elsewhere the rubber, aren't suppose to rotate but is designed to bind as well, I believe some of this is possible... so what is the difference, hack job A or hack job B...

frankly the ride bounces all over the place, don't know if it's binding or perhaps it's just the poly density..

with the car idling on the street, alot more vibration is felt, so that is not about binding..

live and learn ...Banski hmmm.....

I have fx3 shocks I removed the actuators on, I zipped tied them to full hard, will changing those settings or even new shocks help?

too late now, and besides the rubbers were shot, that's my rationalization.

I know by zip tyng them on the front to full soft ,does changed the ride...

Sheesh, Ive had my car out 3 times before it broke,one of them it was raining for a 15 mi span. No wipers, DRs no problem. lol

Its a car, drive it.

I also responded in your other thread. Did you remove and replace the rear sway bar? If you did, check t make sure you didn't reinstall it upside down. This would cause the bar to lad the suspension and keep it from settling.

upgraded to 26mm vbp 2 years ago, and no the bar does not come off for the poly job, thankful for that....finally put in my lower front sway bar poly bushings left it out 2 years ago, thinking it was too hard,


it was too hard took me 6 hours.....

How do those end link bushings fit? On my 85 they are so cockeyed they don't want to fit at ride height. Even worse when the suspension is drooping on jackstands.

I have to correct my comment, I had to remove the bar bushings.... for one... the offset-to-the-rear holes, thats drill into the bushings, while in the correct position, was all the way to the edge of the bracket (stock).


The bracket, is formed by factory stamping and has a supportive curvature; keeping the bushing from skirming out, unlike the rears where the aftermarket bushing has a ridge that straddles the strap.

Well the bar rubbed on both sides equally, on the inside edge wearing the bar, an I think, immaterial amount.

To correct this I filed/clearanced ( yet again, me and my files with no handles)a scallop/scoop to accommodate the curvature of the bar,spritzed with paint. the bar moved back a tad, thinking it was "pushed" forward a minute amount by the metal I had removed. "Bind"?

I struggled with getting the end links to line up, and was in fear the big bar would not fit within the confines of the rear radiator fan housing and my modded Z51 power-steering cooler,, as a trans cooler is stacked in front of the true steering cooler.

This was my initial concern, after the lower bar poly busing swap. as it shoved the bar forward and kissed or rather dry "F" d the fan housing.

I started to panic a little and got a grip on things, it could have been worse, it could have been raining.

This was with one side up, with no recourse, I raised the other side and finished everything up without any further concerns,

Remarkably, the links were in perfect 0 degrees, everything lined up and, the truth be told, allowed me to regain the stiffness I had and appreciated with the dry binding bushings I had going in under-lubed for a 2 year period, without the squeaks and continuous suspension altering bind.

And frankly, my wanting front polys is just that want, who needs?


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