I am doing some research trying to get everything laid out for the trans cooler for the new trans. I will be running a 9.5" converter with a 2600-2800 stall.

I still have a few theoretical and space questions for anyone who has done this.

We have a few old threads on this:

http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/modu ... e=&topic_id=14809&forum=1

http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/modu ... e=&topic_id=14826&forum=1

http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/modu ... id=140880#forumpost140880

http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/modu ... e=&topic_id=13001&forum=1

So here is my thought. I want to run a cooler with the built in fan. I have found several different brands / models that could work, but I have not removed the shroud to measure the actual available space in front of the radiator. I was planning on doing what vetteoz suggested and removing the factory aux fan and putting the trans cooler in its place. I already have a lower temp switch in the head to turn the fan on around 200 or 205 and off at around 180. I would then use the factory relay/wiring for power. Very simple. I plan on running hard lines for the fluid hookup. There are -6an to 5/16 1/2-20 inverted flare line adapters that I would use.

So theoretically, is there going to be a vast difference in trans fluid temps that would peak before coolant/head temperature? Ie, the fan for the cooler wouldn't turn on because the coolant/head temp is too low, but the trans fluid is much hotter. In that case, it would be better to use a trans cooler that has its own temperature switch built in. I don't think this would happen since I am running if through the factory radiator cooler (warmer) first.

Also, does anyone have the measurements of the area in front of the aux fan or what size the factory aux fan actually is?

Here are a few examples I found:

Flexalite F21-41906

http://www.shop.speedunlimited.com/p- ... il-cooler-w-fan-6-an.aspx

Derale 13720

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13720

There are other brands out there including B&M, etc.

So give me your thoughts / comments.

Thanks.

Can't really answer your questions on type of cooler would be the best, I've never installed a cooler with a built-in fan.
My concern here would be trying to obtain the "correct" fluid temp as you mentioned. I'm sure this type of info would come from Pete K.
I would rather have the cooler firmly mounted instead of using those plastic nails I see used on rad fans.


Joel

Thanks for the advice, Joel. In one of those links there is a B&M chart that I will cross post that lists the ideal temps.

As far as mounting, I was planning on figuring out a solid mount system once I open everything up.

Matt - why the trans cooler to start with? I have tracked my C4 and now the C5, both with the 4L60E, and never had any trans heating issues. Are you sure the trans cooler is a good investment?

Andy --- I am changing from a stock 12" to a performance 9.5" 2600-2800 stall, so the cooler is basically a required mod.

Also, high temps is one of the biggest killer of transmissions.

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No factory installed cooler in your year model?

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The cooler (heater) in the automatic C4s is incorporated in the side tank of the radiator.

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Same as mine then. I ran a B&N 2600-2800 Holeshot behind 420hp in the C4 and am running a 2800-3000 Yank SS series behind 475hp in the C5. Even in the hardest track days or mountain runs the very highest trans temp I ever saw was about 200*F when doing back to back runs at the dragstrip.

I'm honestly surprised by those temps that you saw.

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Where did you mount your sensor? Pan? Trans case? Exit line?

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And what if you run it at 140F forever? When is it too cold?

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Dunno.

Well, had a chance to work on the car tonight. I took some pictures to help guys in the future who need to remove the radiator shroud top cover, etc.

You should start with this:



Disconnect the air intake tube (I also disconnected the MAF and set it aside). Next remove the knobs from the air cleaner housing bolts. These can be a real PIA. The bolts are held in the shroud with a little metal tab that usually just spins around when you try to unscrew it. You can use a screwdriver wedged against it to help hold it.



Once removed, you can see how the bolt is secured:





You can then being the task of removing the screws holding the top of the shroud on. There are two different sizes here, 10 mm and 7 mm. I prefer to use a drill with a 1/4 bit attachment and a 1/4 drive ratchet with extensions. It makes it easier. Be aware that some of the bolts are "hidden" and you might have to search for them.

Don't forget the bolts that hold the fan to the shroud as well as the a/c accessories and radiator hose support.





Also remember to disconnect any attached wiring looms, etc.

You will then run in to this problem...the shroud goes under the radiator hose and can't be removed with it in place.



Are you man enough to cut your Corvette????



Obviously that is not necessary, but I didn't feel like opening up the cooling system. This makes removal for cleaning in the future easier, too.

You should be able to remove the top shroud cover now. You will see the radiator and in front of that the a/c condenser. In front of that, you can see a small gap where the front auxiliary fan is. My goal is to remove and replace that, so I am doing more dissection to get some working room.



From the top, you can see the two top screws that are on the slanted portion of the shroud holding the aux fan to the shroud (might be 13 mm screws).



There are a couple more 7 mm screws on the side of the front shroud cover. Two are low down, and on the passenger's side I had to get it from underneath the car.





Side note, here is your outside air temperature sensor located in the shroud on the passenger side:



Connector for the aux fan, located on the driver's side:



Once all the screws were removed, I was able to push the front shroud up and forward a bit, exposing the area where the aux fan is located:



There is actually a lot more room in there than I thought.





I think if you needed to replace the aux fan, it might be possible to pull it through the front air intake area under the car. Not sure, but there is only one additional screw holding the fan from the bottom:



(fan removed)



Who has actually seen the aux fan?



Stock fan is about 12" high:



At the thickest point it is about 3 1/4":



I think based on the way the shroud is contoured, the biggest cooler to fit easily in there would be about 18" wide:



I think the Derale 12732 might be a good option. I will have to make a custom box/bracket for the cooler to mount it, I can use the stock bolt locations for ease. I have a buddy with a metal shop who will help me.





I'll keep you guys posted as things progress.

Matthew

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When I talked to Dana last week he said 160-180* is perfect and will make the trans last a very long time.

http://www.derale.com/

http://inet.derale.com/clientdocs/1_212.pdf

Found the cheapest price here:

http://bumpersuperstore.com/i-1143077 ... ol-remote-cooler-6an.html

Pulled the trigger and ordered that cooler tonight. Wheels are turning....

When you put the shroud back on, the screws can be flipped around so they can be reached from the top.

Also, as a tip, when you do the watermark on your pics, add (c) 2013 to them, with a "free to be shared" line...

Andy, there are no screws to be flipped around on this. There is only one screw under the car that is the lower anchor point for the aux fan and that cannot be changed because it is a hole and the bolt threads into the fan mount itself. Might be different on the 90+ models when they changed the shroud setup.

Well, my trans cooler finally arrived yesterday. Took forever to get here. Sure I saved a good amount, but the irritation of ordering something and waiting three weeks wasn't worth it.

Well, on to the fittings. Apparently it's not as common as I thought to go from 5/16 line to -6an. My goal was to get a flare fitting connection to allow me to go directly from the 5/16 to the -6an. This doesn't exist.

The trans cooler has -6an male threads on it. The transmission hard line is 5/16 with a 1/2-20 male flared connection stock.

I have the following possibilities left.

Option 1:

Use a ferule connection with an Earl's connection for the hard line to -6an:

Earl's 165156
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/16515 ... -1?parentProductId=749418



Option 2:

Use multiple adapters/connections - 5/16 line flared with a tube nut to -5an, and a -5an to -6an reducer, then another -6an coupling.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores ... 8&searchTerm=5an+tube+nut



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-991907erl



http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performanc ... -1?parentProductId=752566



Option 3:

I found another adaper, -6an to 1/2-20. Then I would use this and a coupler:

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/M ... ter-Fittings-p-19076.html




Do you think it's possible to use a 5an tube sleeve on the 5/16 line with a -6an tube nut? I don't know if there would be enough material on the flare to do that? Probably end up leaking which I don't want.

I don't plan on using flex line, I think I will encounter the same issue with adapters since the factory cooler in the tank is 1/2-20 female fitting.

Give me some ideas here

Matthew

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Do you think you'll have any new engine heat issues with the cooler mounted up front? I've been working on keeping my temps down with an intercooler mounted similarly.

Are you planning on cutting the hard lines at the radiator, or using a joint to extend to the new cooler?

Joel

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Not sure yet. I am hoping there is enough air flow. My friend is helping me build a mounting frame for it and he suggested round stock as not to impede air flow.

If I find overheating issues my next step is a higher flow water pump.

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The exit line from the trans will go to the factory cooler then the trans cooler then back to the trans inlet. I will be making some new lines, not sure yet if I will splice in where I already have the lines cut/spliced from the last rebuild.

Just a quick idea of the frame we made up to mount the cooler. This took us about three hours to plan out and fabricate. The guy that helped me is a very talented guy. For not having the car to test fit with, this turned out pretty good. The only thing I would do differently is mount the bottom plate on the outside and make the mounting legs 1/2 inch shorter. But it still fits and will work well.

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A few more.

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Matt,

Take a peice of old rubber hose and split it length wise so you can cover the 4 "legs" of that frame.

It looks like some come very close to the fluid tubes of your tranny cooler.... vibration and what not could cause them to rub and you might end up with a hole in your new cooler if left metal to metal.

If it were mine on the tube to -6AN coupling - I would use option 1. That Earls hard line to AN adapter fitting.

Everything looks real nice.
Will

Thanks for the tip, Will. I think the photo is deceiving, I don't believe the legs are that close, but I will still do what you recommend.

I ordered the Earl's hard line to an fitting adapter last night from summit.

Hardline adapters arrived today.

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I picked up the bracket from the powder coated on Friday afternoon. I got a chance to tinker on Saturday night. I decided I didn't like the offset of the cooler in the bracket. So I took out the pneumatic cutoff and trimmed 1/4" off each mounting leg. Then I had to retap the threads. Luckily we bored them deep enough that the bolts fit perfectly. Got the cooler fastened with lock washers and loctite. The extra 1/4" gave me just a hair more room in front of the condenser. Once that was done, I wrapped the mounting legs with heater hose as Will recommended. A test fit followed and that was the progress made for the evening.

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Wow,you did a lot of work to install your converter.

I'm running a Vig 3500 and according to the factory transmission temp reading my operating temps are good with just a plain old B&M 70264.

I left the factory cooler in the loop too, seems like it may have helped lower my engine coolant temps too.




But your install makes me feel LAZY...

A lot of work....yes. but I think it is worth it in the long run, I want a reliable trans especially after all the money I have tied up in it. Obviously more than one way to skin a cat.

I will also utilize the factory cooler/warmer before the aftermarket cooler.

Today I got a chance to work again. I soldered the wiring from the old fan to the new one. Then I got everything mounted and the lower shroud resecured. Those 6 screws holding it on are a royal PIA. So the cooler is in there solid and I like the extra 1/4 inch clearance I gave myself by trimming the bracket. Next on deck is mocking up the cooler lines and once that is done, bending the real ones and buttoning everything up.

I got a chance to work on the car tonight. I got the second line bent up and put in the car and attached both lines to the cooler fittings. I still need to wrap the lines where they enter the shroud with fuel hose to protect them from vibration, reattach the shroud, and reattach a few odds and ends. Very happy with the progress.

A few pics:

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Good work photo-doc'ing your work with snappics there!

Too bad more guys don't do that. It's good for SO much - re-sale if ever, reference, it makes time for thinking out the work + solutions, feedback, etc., ...

My cooler is up front - no fan, but the TCI controller module handheld shows fluid temps. among other things, if ever the shop will get other functions right.

Thanks for the kind words. I know photos really help me on projects, so just hoping I can help others in the process of doing mine. This is obviously more than just a mild modification so I want people to understand the time/cost/work involved. It has already gotten way more out of hand than I expected but I am happy with the results.

I got the lines wrapped with a bit of fuel line to protect from vibration. I also got the shroud reinstalled. When I put the studs for the air filter on I had a little brainstorm. I drilled out the plate and into the shroud and put a pop rivet in there....no more spinning!

Once everything was buttoned up I parked it in the driveway and let it idle. At 205 the new fan came on perfectly as planned. It has some force because I could feel it pushing out of the front from against the condenser. Once the main fan came on at 210 the coolant temp dropped very quickly and then the cooler fan turned off. Perfect it passed the first test. Once the trans is in and the lines are connected it will be the real test.

Pics...

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Looks good Matt.

When are you going to have your tranny fixed?
Will

Will - I need to set up a time with my buddy as well as find a day the wife will let me escape. Hopefully soon.

That's a good job Mat.
Clean and very neat looking.

Joel

Thanks, Joel.

We plan on pulling the transmission next Friday.

Good stuff.

Thanks, Kevin. That is one of the most annoying things when working on the air filter/radiator area. In the past I would always pop it off with a large screwdriver and then remove it from the air filter housing with pliers. This should solve that problem.