When hot the front brakes release slow. After using the brakes my car will have a shutter and out slowly goes away. I was checking to make sure everything was tight and realized my front wheels would not turn freely. After they cooled it was fine. Then I pressed the brakes again and it was back, but not as bad. I tried this again when fully cooled and no issue.

I would check the hoses first. The inside can collapse.

check the caliper pin

I'd bleed it, may have something trapped in there

when's the last time you changed the fluid?

if all that fails, check the caliper pistons

you don't mention miles... also, what pads?

If you use cheap pads, they can stick to rotors when hot.

I agree with checking the pin and flushing out the fluid. It won't hurt...

It sounds to me like the entire brake system needs a once over.

They are ceramic pads with about 4kon them. The fluid was flushed at this time too. Today after a bit of driving I released the pressure with the bleeder and the wheel spun free, so that rules out the caliper or pads sticking. I pumped them back up and released the hose from the line and the wheel spun free again. I did this several times at both locations. So I am leaning towards the master cylinder.

sounds like a dying master cylinder...

order one from RockAuto... tons cheaper than anywhere else.

Could be the ABS

I don't consider myself one of the smartguys around here, but it'd seem to me that it could either be the ABS, or my 1st thought the hoses. (These are questions as much as suggestions)If the master, wouldn't the pedal remain in a depressed position? Or would it refill from the reservoir and remain in the upwardmost position? If this were the case, is it possible the hoses are collapsing, allowing fluid to remain trapped and the master to be overfilled. Once the master would get overfilled and then pressed again, that could cause thes excess fluid in the master to be forced back past the piston, helping to cause a leakage/failure issue? If the ABS, would the system be energized and making some noise as if in operation?

Again, just questions as much as anything.

Are both front wheels sticking or one side? I guess I missed that in your original post.

Could be the pistons are sticking in the cylinders, I've had that happen on a pickup.

Booster pushrod adjustment. Not sure how it can go out of adjustment, but it sounds like what's happening, and the fluid heating up causes the brakes to drag.

Remove the reservoir cap and have someone jab the pedal, you should see some fluid geyser up. If not, the reservoir port is blocked due to the pushrod being too long.

When you take the MC off, there's a little screw sticking out of the booster pushrod end that can be tightened in. You'll have to get a firm grip on the pushrod with some vicegrips, but protected with rubber or rags to avoid chewing up the shaft.

I have a new master cylinder to install. The old one is full of crud. On the new reservoir it doesn't have a prime hose connection. I've tried to clean the old one, but cannot get to all of it. I'm thinking of getting a brass fitting and attach it to the new reservoir.

all that separates the 2 circuits is an o-ring, which fails

Quote:

I've heard of guys using rocks, pebbles, marbles, etc in various reservoirs and shaking them around with cleaner in them. Might that be possible?

Lines collapsed? If so, bleeding is in vain...