pr0zac wrote:
it would be alright in a 427

pr0zac wrote:
why do you want to peak at 7000 rpms?

BeachBum wrote:
I pretty much agree with cuisinartvette..... tough to go to 7000 rpm with a hyd roller.... some do it, but its usually when everything is fresh.... a month later after the springs have gotten a bit loose, valve float starts appearing by 6500 rpm. Nowadays there are quite a few solid rollers built specifically for the street... typically with nice valvetrain friendly gentle lobe ramps, thus adjusting lash isn't required every other week and instead just 1 or 2 adjustments per year are necessary.

But, I won't vouch for how well they do with prolonged idle that a daily driver see's.....I hear some have figured out how to make them last, others say don't run them on the street.... that is, if you're a daily driver seeing extended street driving. Its a tough decision and should be based upon how you truly are going to drive your vette.

But, with 427 cubic inches, with a solid roller, to have a HP peak at 7000 rpm is more cam than you think with a 23 degree head.... something in the range of 264/268 and even a bit bigger would be required.... that same cam could take a 383 to over 7000 rpm, but your motor would eat it up....talk to skidownit on the corvette forum.... I think that is the cam he has been running or thereabouts, and I think his peak is still before 7000 rpm with his 434.... which is par for the course.

If its a true street car, I'd suggest you stay with a hyd roller in the 240 area, if your motor is running right, it should make 550 HP at around 5600-6000 rpm.... and even as much as 575ish..... which is an awful lot of power for the street.... almost stupid power. It'll be perfectly happy with a tight 3k converter as well.

good luck with whatever you do and let us know what you decide on.

BeachBum wrote:
I pretty much agree with cuisinartvette..... tough to go to 7000 rpm with a hyd roller.... some do it, but its usually when everything is fresh.... a month later after the springs have gotten a bit loose, valve float starts appearing by 6500 rpm. Nowadays there are quite a few solid rollers built specifically for the street... typically with nice valvetrain friendly gentle lobe ramps, thus adjusting lash isn't required every other week and instead just 1 or 2 adjustments per year are necessary.

But, I won't vouch for how well they do with prolonged idle that a daily driver see's.....I hear some have figured out how to make them last, others say don't run them on the street.... that is, if you're a daily driver seeing extended street driving. Its a tough decision and should be based upon how you truly are going to drive your vette.

But, with 427 cubic inches, with a solid roller, to have a HP peak at 7000 rpm is more cam than you think with a 23 degree head.... something in the range of 264/268 and even a bit bigger would be required.... that same cam could take a 383 to over 7000 rpm, but your motor would eat it up....talk to skidownit on the corvette forum.... I think that is the cam he has been running or thereabouts, and I think his peak is still before 7000 rpm with his 434.... which is par for the course.

If its a true street car, I'd suggest you stay with a hyd roller in the 240 area, if your motor is running right, it should make 550 HP at around 5600-6000 rpm.... and even as much as 575ish..... which is an awful lot of power for the street.... almost stupid power. It'll be perfectly happy with a tight 3k converter as well.

good luck with whatever you do and let us know what you decide on.

383tpimachine wrote:
I am specing out cams that would work well with a combo Im saving for. It will be a dart lil M block 427. Will either run 220 or 227 competition ported AFRs. All forged and leaning towards a 250-300 shot of juice.

My dilemma is that I suck about cam selection. I have been snooping around comp cams website and the xfi seems promising. is the 292 with .58int and .57ex to big? I know it would be much to large for a 350 but on a 427 with a good tune would it peak around 7000rpm?

Stall will be bought to match the cam and this car will be street driven to local hangouts.

Any input will be appreciated. Im young and this is the one area I have yet to learn much about

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

383tpimachine wrote:
I am specing out cams that would work well with a combo Im saving for. It will be a dart lil M block 427. Will either run 220 or 227 competition ported AFRs. All forged and leaning towards a 250-300 shot of juice.

My dilemma is that I suck about cam selection. I have been snooping around comp cams website and the xfi seems promising. is the 292 with .58int and .57ex to big? I know it would be much to large for a 350 but on a 427 with a good tune would it peak around 7000rpm?

Stall will be bought to match the cam and this car will be street driven to local hangouts.

Any input will be appreciated. Im young and this is the one area I have yet to learn much about

Use camquest to get a baseline.

How much power do you want the thing to make?

For a street car I'd think anything larger than 210cc heads would be overkill. 300 cfm should do a little over 7500 on a 427, at 100% VE, and support a little over 630hp naturally aspirated.

Obviously the larger heads have more flow, but with the larger cross sectional area I'd feel the velocity loss on the street would be a bad thing everywhere but peak.



-- Joe

383tpimachine wrote:

Camquest is confusing as hell to me and cant exactly find a solid cam that would fit.

I first wanted to go with the 195 comp port from AFR but figured the extra cubes would let me use bigger without a problem. 210s be better?

383tpimachine wrote:
thanks joe. sounds like the 210 will be a good cross between street and strip

The camquest would help if you would come up with results. It doesnt show any when I put in 400block and solid cam

383tpimachine wrote:
mostly strip but local hotrod hangout once a month would be nice.

maybe i need to update mine it doesnt come up with any. and yes I want 800rwhp so nitrous up to a 400 would be great

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

383tpimachine wrote:
mostly strip but local hotrod hangout once a month would be nice.

maybe i need to update mine it doesnt come up with any. and yes I want 800rwhp so nitrous up to a 400 would be great

What is the transmission and rear end?

I know a handful of guys with 900+ hp (flywheel) combos, but they did it with twin turbos and the hit is not as hard.

-- Joe

383tpimachine wrote:
Quote:

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

383tpimachine wrote:
mostly strip but local hotrod hangout once a month would be nice.

maybe i need to update mine it doesnt come up with any. and yes I want 800rwhp so nitrous up to a 400 would be great

What is the transmission and rear end?

I know a handful of guys with 900+ hp (flywheel) combos, but they did it with twin turbos and the hit is not as hard.

-- Joe

very built 4L60e and a d44 soon

tpi421vett wrote:
I think everyone here has given some real good advise. If you go solid roller, you could go with a Comp 248/254, and I would run a 112 lobe sep with nos. The motor you are talking about was similar to one of the 421's I did. It made 502 rwhp and 481 rwtq N/A. 11.0 compression, ran fine on pump gas.would pull to 6500 rpm. With a 200 shot it made 720 rwhp and 790 rwtq. I really wouldn't spray more than a 250 shot myself. There is alot more room for problems if you want any sort of engine longevity. And a D44 won't have a prayer of living with a big motor and any nos. I broke everything behind the trans (ZF6) and ended up with a 9". And personally I don't think a 4L60 would live long either. I have never had good luck with any engine I have done that had a 4L60. I would go T400 or a 4L80, but both of those will take some obvious fabrication.

tpi421vett wrote:
I think everyone here has given some real good advise. If you go solid roller, you could go with a Comp 248/254, and I would run a 112 lobe sep with nos. The motor you are talking about was similar to one of the 421's I did. It made 502 rwhp and 481 rwtq N/A. 11.0 compression, ran fine on pump gas.would pull to 6500 rpm. With a 200 shot it made 720 rwhp and 790 rwtq. I really wouldn't spray more than a 250 shot myself. There is alot more room for problems if you want any sort of engine longevity. And a D44 won't have a prayer of living with a big motor and any nos. I broke everything behind the trans (ZF6) and ended up with a 9". And personally I don't think a 4L60 would live long either. I have never had good luck with any engine I have done that had a 4L60. I would go T400 or a 4L80, but both of those will take some obvious fabrication.

tpi421vett wrote:
It's been done before, but I have never done one. And a 4L80E will need a stand alone computer to make it work, unless you have aftermaket ecu that can make it work. You would have to fab C beam bracket, and or some sort of crossmember, if the C beam bracket wasn't strong enough. But the c beam would need to attach to it. I am sure you can find guys that have done it out there.

One thing you do have going for you is a automatic is much easier on parts than a manual. So if you left the line easy, and I have seen guys pull timing for X amount of feet, and didn't spray nos right away, and had the strongest D44 you could build it might last for a while.

But I really think once you get to mid to low 10's and quicker, you are going to start to have problems. I have seen a few guys that stick with the IRS, and after so many runs, they go thru and inspect and rebuild everything after so many runs. The faster you go, the more you have to work on it. And the less parts last.

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

tpi421vett wrote:
It's been done before, but I have never done one. And a 4L80E will need a stand alone computer to make it work, unless you have aftermaket ecu that can make it work. You would have to fab C beam bracket, and or some sort of crossmember, if the C beam bracket wasn't strong enough. But the c beam would need to attach to it. I am sure you can find guys that have done it out there.

One thing you do have going for you is a automatic is much easier on parts than a manual. So if you left the line easy, and I have seen guys pull timing for X amount of feet, and didn't spray nos right away, and had the strongest D44 you could build it might last for a while.

But I really think once you get to mid to low 10's and quicker, you are going to start to have problems. I have seen a few guys that stick with the IRS, and after so many runs, they go thru and inspect and rebuild everything after so many runs. The faster you go, the more you have to work on it. And the less parts last.

PATC sells the cbeam adapter for the 4L80E.

On paper, the 800+ rwhp sounds wonderful but. In reality, your spending a ton of money to make a car that was meant for carving canyons go fast in a straight line and make it to the finish line in one piece.. I guess I'm the silent minority, but IMO a street car is complete and goes 11s/high 10s, a track car has no interior, a straight axle, and lives on a trailer 6 days a week.. Vega or early nova comes to mind.

-- Joe

pr0zac wrote:
I have a gladiator 44 from exotic muscle and its shit the bed on a 340rwhp car.. you think for a second its going to last in a 800fwhp car you are out of your mind.

tpi421vett wrote:
Quote:

pr0zac wrote:
I have a gladiator 44 from exotic muscle and its shit the bed on a 340rwhp car.. you think for a second its going to last in a 800fwhp car you are out of your mind.

Wow... that is really dissapointing to hear. I thought the Gladiator D44 was better than that, especially for the price.