I am construction a ramp... so far, so good... wood framing isn't my problem.

Drilling into concrete for the anchor bolt... that's my problem.

I have a DeWalt cordless hammer drill and it is getting through it, but gee, it's taking for ever. I need 2.25" and I am at the .75 mark, at best. And that took like 30 minutes.

Is there a better bit? I am currently using a Bosch bit, made in Germany.

Thanks!

Dood, unless your going through steel, a decent carbide bit shouldn't take but a few minutes.

maybe that's my problem... it may not be carbide.

I have done most of my construction work with wood on foundations, so slabs are new...

I will try that! Thanks!

Andy most slabs around here are 6 bag mix concrete and contain in the mix size 1 and #3 stone and gravel in their mix and added strenght. Make sure you use a concrete bit and the drill is not in reverse. Not trying to insult anyones intelligence but I've sen guys struggle with allhe right drill and bit just to figure out the hammer drill was in reverse.

yea... Going the right direction... checked that a number of times!

I think the bit just isn't up to the task.

I have had a lot of luck with Milwuakee Industrial Masonry Bits. They have a very aggressive pitch on the carbide tip that will rip right through that slab. Ever thought about the use of a power driver that shoots a 3 1/2" fastener with a 27caliber powder charge?

Couple of factors could be causing the problem.
The age of the concrete, old concrete can be pretty damn hard to get through.
Some of the cordless hammer drills don't have the greatest hammering action. You DO have it on the hammer setting, right, by rotating the collar behind the chuck to point at the little hammer icon so the drill "vibrates" when in use? Also, drill in high speed setting.
Hopefully you're drilling right into a piece of hard rock aggregate, try moving the hole over a bit if you can.
Lastly, and important, in hard concrete, start with a 1/8" carbide tip and don't let it over heat and burn up. Put some water on it. Work your way up to the 3/8" hole or whatever you need in bit size increments.
Dimple the 'crete with a center punch first to give the bit a small depression to bite into.

I'd say your problem is the cordless drill. Cordless hammer drills don't have enough power to do big concrete jobs. Also, make sure you are using a good masonry bit and it is sharp.

Matthew

My first thought was the use of the cordless hammer drill....an electric drill with a GOOD bit is a must. And the age of the concrete is a factor too. slabs around here are typically 6 bag mixes and as said earlier, as concrete ages it gets harder. Concrete doesn't reach it's full strength until it's 60 years old. I'd try a corded hammer drill.

+ 1 on the cordless.
The last I did (air compressor mounts) were 2 in deep and took way less than 5 min. with a 2/3ths corded drill (non-hammer).

I will dig our my electric drill and get a better bit.

Along with a smaller bit to do the pilot hole with.

All of these suggestions are great!!!! Thanks!!!!!!

Depending on the circumstances, I really like these. For one thing,a 3/16" hole is all that's needed for the smaller screws instead of a big hole for old fashioned ackermans or expanding type anchors. Also, you can drill right thru your board into the concrete, no measuring. I like to put a little wax on the threads and drive it in with drill/driver on low speed. Holds like iron.

http://www.tapcon.com/

Tapcons are great!

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+1

Did you try:

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+1 also

Nelson - TNT did cross my mind, but figured it would violate my insurance coverage.

However... A little of this and a little of that...

Vetron and Jr - the carbide bit did wonders. No luck finding Milwalkee, but I did find Hilti. I have heard of ramnailers... would like to get one, but can't justify.

Flyboy - water. That did help. I think, but things did go faster.

I stuck with the cordless dewalt and it took care of it in under 10

so... Thanks to everyone!

Today we helped Bogus drill a hole.

Tomorrow.......

Not just any hole... it was in 35 year old concrete.

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Ah, back when they made good concrete.........and cars.

There are colors on the picture... things left to do.

The framing, as you can see, is done. I am going to cover the ramp and platform with 3/4" plywood. The vertical surfaces will be covered in drywall.

The black circle-ish thing is where the anchor bolt is.

The red circle-ish things show the hangers I used to hang the ramp runners with.

The green circle is the heater duct... I am going to stuff a new heater tube in there and then run it to where the green X is, more or less.

The big hole will be covered with a piece of 1/4" ply and foam will be sprayed around the entire area to seal it up. I may even buy a small role of R19 to stuff in the bigger areas. I don't want big air leaks, ya know? And that could create them.

There is also an outlet that is capped off. If it is active, I am going to add wire and put a box on the floor of the ramp for a lamp.

This thing is stout... I can stand on any part and there is not a creak from anything. I am guessing that there are at least 160 screws holding it together - at this stage. I haven's screwed the deck on!

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Lookin' good, Andy.

I'd check on putting the outlet in the floor, even with s good seal, I'd worry about water intrusion. Wouldn't be hard to just move it up a foot and a half.

Andy, if you have not already done this I'd suggest adding a few more lateral supports under the plywood. Thats a big surface area to depend on the ply to support. Maybe one for every 14-18" from the base of your ramp to the far wall.

You are right... I was reviewing it this morning and made that same call. So tomorrow, I will add a cross beam or two before the 3/4 ply goes on.

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It's an indoor ramp... No chance of that... I will also add a cover.

Looking good so far Andy.