All Posts (mseven)
Re: Rear hub removal - limited working space |
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Senior Guru
 
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thanks for the info...hopefully it will go better the next time around and that was just a fluke.
Posted on: 2010/3/20 0:43
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Re: Rear hub removal - limited working space |
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Quote:
Yep, too many track days on these "fantastic tapered roller bearings" I think the total was 4 days of 4 20 min sessions and 6 days of 4 4-5 lap sessions. Was loose on Sat at Road Atl, tightened things up, got 3 sessions in and drove it home. The teflon washers are just over a year old. Hope they are useable cause I can't get replacements until Tuesday. could you list what bearings you used that are "fantastic" enough to only live a matter of hours. thanks
Posted on: 2010/3/19 18:25
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Re: Van Steel Coilovers for my 85 |
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Quote:
I thought this was already at the builders, why not trailor it over there? Quote:
That is exactly the reason I bought QA-1's. Mine is a 90 so no shock tower needed, but the overall price on that set-up is way steep IMO. Can't add anyhting about going around cones or the like though.
Posted on: 2010/2/27 11:29
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Re: Wheels are done |
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lurk.........lol
Posted on: 2010/1/26 15:15
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Re: PCMforless gave up. |
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DaleD wrote: No I didn't say that....the things I don't do are: work on "flash" type ecms (some have a soldered in socket which then makes it doable for me), and the other is re-use stock type chips. This requires those who have me do their chip/tune purchase a gp1/2 from moates and chips.
Posted on: 2010/1/15 13:38
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Re: wow |
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yes, mini-ram II and did it on the first build (cam and heads), new motor is still uses a mini.
Posted on: 2010/1/3 18:31
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Re: wow |
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Quote:
vetteoz wrote: I'll bet more like it grows old.....I took mine apart once, so that I could put it in a box.
Posted on: 2010/1/3 12:16
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Re: Drag radials for a c4 |
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I don't see why the DOT DR (street tire) wouldn't hook any of these cars. In "Drag Radial" class guys are going 7's in the quarter using a DOT DR street tire. Many of the mustang crowd run a 275 or 305 (depending on 17 or 18 rim) here's an example of a real street car w/305/35/18(he has gone faster since the articles)
http://www.alternativeauto.com/waterbox/88gt_tropical.html http://www.alternativeauto.com/images ... ang/mustang_milestone.png
Posted on: 2010/1/1 15:47
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Re: PCMforless - not perfect. |
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Quote:
TheAngelOfDeath wrote: BTW, you are not the first to have problems with PCMForless and Alvin. There have been problems from bad tunes to poor shipping practices. If in fact, some have had problems with them I can assure you they are no where near the worst offender in the tuning world. As to the other comments above, regarding sales ethics, and undisclosed facts etc. I have no vested interest in their company as I do all my own tuning. It was hard for me to believe they would not discuss various aspects of getting a "tune". A quick look at their site shows that they provide info on data logging, poor performance etc. in their "general info" section on the site. http://www.pcmforless.com/index.php?o ... sk=cat&catid=20&Itemid=78 This is not rocket science and working with the software only requires basic computer skills and the ability to attach the recorded file to an email. The actual tuning itself requires more savy... Dale should be fine once he can send some files/data out. Quote: What's it take, cables and software? Should I download something to my laptop. I commend Andy on his generous offer and trying to help you out but first you will need to check out a couple of things. Since I do not own the "EASE" system, is it compatible for your year. More importantly, send Alvin an email an make sure he has/uses that software so that he can actually read the info. If Alvin cannot read or work with the EASE system, you can download Data master for free and get 20 free trial files. Data master here: http://www.ttspowersystems.com/DataMaster_downloads.html cables here (scroll down to aldl cables): http://www.moates.net/index.php?cPath=31 Quote: I'm not totally convinced it's not my car. When we were messing around with it today, it was chugging, without the chip This is what I was referring to in my earlier post, things need to right with the car which no tuning can help. Regarding F.P and timing, your tune is built around that premise/starting point, and always need to be verified before additional tweaks in the tune are made.
Posted on: 2009/11/26 14:08
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Re: PCMforless - not perfect. |
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Senior Guru
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Quote:
Sent an email, since he's out. I have no way to collect a data log, so we'll see what they want to do. I see no reason why Alvin could not get your tune functioning properly. If the only changes being made are disabling VATS, and changing the enable/disable fan temps. in the tune, the way the car performs will not be effected. Regarding performance/efficiency through fueling and timing changes, no one is capable of tuning a computer controlled vehicle properly without the input of real time data. This information would be gathered from using software such as TTS data master, Diacom, tuner pro etc. All tuners will start by sending a conservative "base tune" from other similar combinations they have done which is based on the information that you provided for your particular combination. From there you will have to provide data logs that capture/record a majority of rpm v.s.load range events while the car is being driven so that adjustments can be made in the tune. Additionally it will be your responsibility to insure that everything mechanically is functioning properly. Exhaust leaks, faulty fuel pumps, regulators, erratic alternator voltage, etc. all play a role in the way the tune will perform and can potentially skew various values.
Posted on: 2009/11/25 12:14
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Re: Stripping Dulso |
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one mans results
http://www.vettetop100.com/crowz/refinish.htm
Posted on: 2009/11/20 1:33
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Re: Joe Sherman 408 small blocks. |
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I've read quite a few tech articles by him and I believe he posts over in speedtalk. IMO, one of the best and and informative out there. I have a local guy who's "pretty good" too..Carl Foltz (CFE), and another one who is on that very short list. All of those guys are over my head in knowledge base and in what I would ever consider/afford to build.
Posted on: 2009/11/10 19:58
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Re: Joe Sherman 408 small blocks. |
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Quote:
anesthes wrote: no doubt, he has always made impressive numbers with a sbc. Aside from the really big inch stuff of Sonny Leonard, I have always been partial to the Reher Morrison builds. In recent times, it appears their prices have also become more reasonble.
Posted on: 2009/11/10 16:51
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Re: Joe Sherman 408 small blocks. |
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sounds like a regular sherman build, big power and cammed to the moon....lol
Posted on: 2009/11/10 15:02
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Re: Can anyone verify the bolt dimensions for the batwing -> differential case? |
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Yes 10x1.50 and the original bolts are type of self tapping style bolt (triangulated instead of round). I ran a tap through the original holes and then used regular class 10 bolts instead of the OEM bolts. Additonally I prefer using thread inserts (time serts) instead of heli coils as a better solution.
http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html http://www.timesert.com/html/install.html
Posted on: 2009/11/6 3:25
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Re: Softer spring rates |
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fwiw, mine was an fx3 car and had the wider one pictured.
Posted on: 2009/11/4 2:08
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Re: Elevation sensor? |
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It needs more tuning, the AFR maybe good at wot but normal c.l. operation sounds pig rich.
Posted on: 2009/10/27 9:20
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Re: Aftermarket ECU |
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I would consider this a good option:
http://www.dynamicefi.com/EBL_Flash.php
Posted on: 2009/10/14 12:25
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Re: Do I have to RTV the corners of the oil pan? |
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Quote:
well....I did but I'm guessing I won't ever see it again (loaned it to a "friend" in the spring he has since moved etc.) However, you are not far from me if you need a hand with it I can come out your way.
Posted on: 2009/9/30 9:57
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Thanks, guys, for all the answers.Re: L98 Fuel Lines |
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Ray,
This is rear located but some of the things are the same. What I did was use metric adapters at both lines to accommodate the -AN fittings. I made all my own hard lines from the intake and used Earl's line clamps. If you are considering doing this I would also recommend using the Teflon core braided stainless hose. Here, the pump gas has many additives which can and will compromise the typical stainless braided hose which is a "non-barrier" type hose (I had this happen) When I still had AC, I had a 45* on one end (filter) and a straight on the other, so that the hose would have additional room to the header/heat shield. It was "looped" under the ac box then up to the intake. On yours I would continue to run the lines along the top of the rail (under the AC), following the rail, under the upper A arm and then across to the front of the intake. The barided hoses will fit under that "plate" located on the rail just under the A arm. hope this helps pic of my current set-up: [IMG]http://i35.tinypic.com/57doo.jpg[/IMG] with AC: [IMG]http://i35.tinypic.com/2629zbk.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/9/30 9:45
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Re: Do I have to RTV the corners of the oil pan? |
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The pan looks like it sits a bit low, but even with new motor mounts the front will only have about 1" to the cross member. I would suggest getting the chery picker on it and raising it. Where on the west side do you live ?
Posted on: 2009/9/29 0:30
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Re: What Engine Would The Guru's Build? |
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The next time around for me I think I would consider just going bbc, maybe a 502 or 572?? If it has to stay small block based on existing parts (headers, fabbing etc.)I agree on starting with an aftermarket block, less initial work/money and more options in the future.
Posted on: 2009/9/23 14:36
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Re: Performance Chip??? |
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supposedly it is a "performance/mileage module" not a 'chip'.....in any event, I don't see the "jaw dropper" happening, it looks like the typical scam part to me.
Posted on: 2009/9/23 7:30
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Re: Front spring problem |
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Quote:
vis_croceus wrote: Thanks! You're welcome, hopefully tightening is all that is needed. Getting a socket in from the top of the cross member on the bolt in front of the rack is tight though.
Posted on: 2009/9/23 7:13
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Re: Front spring problem |
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When I took mine apart, as I loosened the nuts/bolts they tended to shift and try to hit the cross member (similar to your pic.)making it a harder to remove the nuts. I would try to re-tighten them or loosen them enough to move the brackets and then re -tighten. You can also veiw the heads of the bolts from the top if you feel they have been bent or bent the cross member. Not much to that part of the assembly, when taken apart there will be another bracket like the bottom one at the top which "sandwiches" the spring rubber. I don't see the bolts or the spring having any impact when doing the alignment. I'm not sure why any alignment shop would be playing with those bolts in the first place.
Posted on: 2009/9/23 3:59
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Re: I can't wait until this is done.. |
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Joe, Looks like that will make a nice set-up. Nothing like having heat for those winter projects, good luck.
Mick
Posted on: 2009/9/18 12:42
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Re: Front spring removal |
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Quote:
sliding wrote: You don't have sway bar installed? No, it's been off the car for about 3 years. Since I don't whip it around cones or twisties, I haven't noticed much difference. My interest in using colovers was to control ride height and have an adjustable shock for both weight transfer and normal driving. I felt it is a better option (finacially and parts wise)than trying to get the leaf/fx3 to accomplish the same goals.
Posted on: 2009/9/17 10:13
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Re: Front spring removal |
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that's what I did....except I didn't find it to be a difficult job. Bolts described as difficult can all have a socket on top so they don't spin (if needed). As to a floor jack getting 'spit out', I would suggest using one that is more capable.
[IMG]http://i26.tinypic.com/6j2j6b.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i26.tinypic.com/29e9o9.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/9/15 5:55
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Re: 700R4 - 4L60 Build Up Inside |
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Pete, nice article I am looking forward to getting your thoughts on the new plan set (quality fitment etc.)Thanks, Mick
Posted on: 2009/8/25 10:58
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Re: Driving impressions with the AFR heads |
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Quote:
BeachBum wrote: I hear you and he's not the only one, Reher and Sonny seem to have similar ideas. My guess is that potential customers look at and want big numbers. In the past I have tried to street drive some pretty big cams. Typically the issue wasn't just manners, as a sloppy 5k conv. gear etc. kind of got around some problems, but was always limited drive time due to heat. Biggest that I actually drove on the street in a bbm was a 282@50 695 lift 107 cl. mushroom tappet. With everything possibly done drive time was around 25 min., providing you didn't mash the pedal....then through decell temps were at 240 and gaining.
Posted on: 2009/8/20 11:30
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Re: Driving impressions with the AFR heads |
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I've been following this thread and still think it has value ....that includes prices for the afr's. The reason I say that is not because I own an older 190 comp version but it is based on comparing to other known big flow heads. The other heads I've seen that are a known commodity sell for considerably more than the afr stuff, and very little if any better numbers.
Beach mentioned Joe Sherman, I have seen his numbers as well as some other known builders who attain big SBC hp numbers. My problem with some of those builders is the use of words like "street" motors, yet they are cammed to the moon. I know at a certain point typically once around the 10 sec. mark (NA), cost kicks up for very little track gains.....of course, now we are in age of power adders and there are many around here who have legit low 9 sec. 10" tire street driven cars. So as always, it becomes how fast you want to go and are you willing to spend the $$ to get there. As far as Josh doing this race...maybe I'll have to come down and see...wild man ain't afraid of throwin' some hose at it..lol
Posted on: 2009/8/19 14:06
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Re: Diffferent gear ratio's for 700R4 |
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who is the mfg.?
Posted on: 2009/8/16 22:40
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Re: How true is it when they say at WOT the Corvette goes into Open Loop? |
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Quote:
wonderful insight.... would it not that the maximum airflow vs. rpm must be adjusted for an engine with greater ability to move air. and I should max it out to a 255 default providing it with a greater range sensitivity. And conversely with stock ceilings per rpm assigned, this can fool the maf into thinking X amount of air is moved vs. the correct albeit more volume of air is actually moved, henceforth creating a lean condition, I have used this table primarily for c.l. tuning below 4000. Raisng the air flow in any particular RPM in this table will have the effect of richening. Typically I look at everything above 4000-4500 being pe., therfor from 4k and up I set to 255. For PE if I can't add enough(or subtract)using the 'PE vs RPM' table, I will use add on tables such as : 'PE vs.temp' add-on (which when adding fuel percentage will also reduce inj.dc) and also 'ae factor vs change in load', as part of a base tune. TPS postion, is a part of it but I look at were it actually entered (specific rpm vs.load), and go from there. First I tune C.L. with pe disengaged which allows me to tune higher rpm and deeper into the load range. Once I have the blm/afr locked (not moving and very little int. change)across the board I begin tuning PE (using a afr meter). This has given me pretty consistant results entering pe at various rpm, load ranges. I have found there to be no problem attaining a good cl tune as well as a solid wot tune in typical 383 and 350 set-ups. I believe the need for additional AF grams above 255 would become needed if using a FI/blown set-up or possibly a high rpm real fire breather. Pat (tequilla boy) has been using a ford maf which I believe provides 300+ grams.
Posted on: 2009/8/9 21:54
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Re: How true is it when they say at WOT the Corvette goes into Open Loop? |
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Quote:
383tpimachine wrote:OK so since my tune is ALL out of wack Im losing alot of power when going WOT? There are several inputs/look up tables that play a role in calculating PE, and or the performance in WOT. While timing is a factor ("bogging" description}, the calculated PE AFR also includes the last BLM used/seen (along with other tables) to formulate AFR at WOT. If entering PE lean, the overal PE/WOT AFR will be affected (likewise if entering PE rich). Depending on when you enter PE (RPM vs load), this can change the afr when entering PE. This is why developing the closed loop area of the tune should be done first before tuning for WOT.
Posted on: 2009/8/9 16:19
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Re: Tire Sizes on a C4 |
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Quote:
vis_croceus wrote: They fit and the well can take at least a 29", if removing the plastic "tubs' a 30" looks possible.
Posted on: 2009/7/28 14:04
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Re: One of the best mods to date |
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Senior Guru
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Quote:
Matatk wrote: Wait a sec - I thought I was the best mod to date Didn't realize that you are now a mod. over here...cool, relatively recent acquired status?.. As to the trans, pretty much everything you can do to a 700r less changing the planetary set. Full manual valve body, Pete K. converter (8 1.2" or 9 can't remember exactly) Beast shell, better bearings, pump, input/output shafts, wide band, etc.etc. Quote: Beach wrote: Interesting. Thanks for the information..... I'm going to be looking real closely at a new shifters before too long. Not sure what direction I am going to go, but I know its going to be away from the stock shifter. No problem, as you know the actual choice of style in a shifter is a just a "taste" thing. I personally have always preferred gate types. Which ever choice of style, mega shifter, hammer, pro ratchet, gate etc. or mfg.'s such as, B&M, Hurst, TCI, liberty etc., making a plate and general installation will stay the same. From looking at all of them they appear to be made by the same mfg. (B&M/Hurst ??) Aside from your busy work schedule, I think you will find this to be worth the time and effort involved.
Posted on: 2009/7/25 13:12
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Re: One of the best mods to date |
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Hey Beach,
Thanks, I bought it from summit and it is a B&M magnum grip pro shifter (gate type shifter). It comes complete w/everything and paid 200. (think they are asking 226. now)While I have used a couple of ratchet shifters in the past I never liked not being able to get to neutral w/out going through the gears (full manual). This car also has a full manual valve body so as you know 3-4 is a long way from neutral. The shifter works great and TCI makes a 4 speed reverse pattern plate (B&M does not) for the shifter (they sell the same one under their name). I have installed quite a few shifters in the past and this one requires some work. After removing all stock stuff, I had to first make a steel plate to mount the shifter to, as the tunnel is not flat in that area (and still using 3 of the stock mounting holes). Because of the tunnel shape itself the angle of the cable from the shifter doesn't allow just a hole but rather a longer type hole(1"wide x 3" long). This is needed so that the cable is not bound on the tunnel. It then required me to fab a type of formed allum. plate/with seal for the cable. It's hard to say about diffuclty level, as it's not like it's hard work, it's just tedious having to mock it up for clearancing interior trim, tunnel, cable etc. (for the first time). Going up and back measuring, trim going in and out is time consuming. Working room is tight (typical corvette stuff)and I spent some time/work on it. Once I drove it with this set-up I instantly forgot all about the work ....was definitely worth it.
Posted on: 2009/7/24 23:13
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Re: One of the best mods to date |
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Senior Guru
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Quote:
88BlackZ51 wrote: is that a pink button or red? how's the motor running? your driver's seat looks in good shape. how many miles on the car? The button is red and is for line loc, nitrous will be through a controller. The car now has 61000 on it. The motor is running very well and feels strong. Quote: Woodstock wrote: Looks like someone stabbed your center console with a knife, but what is it good for, to manually control lock up? hhhmmm, I will disregard the first part, however, when manual shifting an auto having postive shifting is importatnt. Controlling lock up is set-up in the bin, but I also have an alternate switch for that purpose.
Posted on: 2009/7/24 22:36
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One of the best mods to date |
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Senior Guru
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Aside from everything else I've done to the car, this is one of the best mods.........and for the purists, one more way to de-value a corvette, LOL
should have the new leather "boot" back today to finish the details [IMG]http://i31.tinypic.com/1zl9c2w.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i32.tinypic.com/245yhpe.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/7/24 10:20
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Re: Wide band O2 bung placement. 1996 LT1 |
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Senior Guru
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Quote:
Weavsvet wrote: Great pictures!!! Thanks! You're welcome I think it can be left in for awhile if using some preventive maintenance. Every time you go to drive/run the car you will need to wait for the sensor to warm up first before starting the motor (as per instructions). I also think it is a good idea to pull it and recalibrate it. I have heard some say they would leave it in w/out heating it or using the LM. The claims were doing this that the 02 would last at least a couple months. Typically I will leave it in a few days w/out problems.
Posted on: 2009/7/13 18:57
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Re: Wide band O2 bung placement. 1996 LT1 |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Quote:
I picked up a Innovate LM1 WB and meter and need opinions on where to install the bung. I have Stainless Works LT headers with bullet cats. I know it goes before the cat but as with everything on these cars space there is limited there to get it in the 10:00 to 2:00 position recommended. How far away can it be from the cat? Can it be in one of the tubes instead of the collector? Any help appreciated. Mike You will basically be forced to install in the 9/3 o'clock position to make it work/removeable etc. Haven't had a problem with moisture hurting it, what kills a WB 02 is not heating it up properly when not in use/or in use. both sides are in approx. same location, and with sensors clear the chassis about the same: [IMG]http://i28.tinypic.com/mtsf29.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i29.tinypic.com/20a2bmq.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i25.tinypic.com/29ft91t.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/7/13 11:29
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Re: C4 Brake Rotors |
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Senior Guru
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The hawk pads were worth the money and are every bit as good as everyone here has stated. The best bang for rotors is corvette reclycling. They are original OEM's in the delco boxes for 20.ea.
Posted on: 2009/6/18 9:27
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Re: Transmission Bolts |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/17 0:00 From Motor City Madhouse
Posts:
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Try calling this place (link below). You will need to specify length and mm. and I believe they are class 10.8's. They usually have every mm. size, hardness, washers and nuts available and in stock.
http://www.motorcityfasteners.com/index.htm
Posted on: 2009/6/16 0:09
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Re: FlexPlate to Converter problem..... |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/17 0:00 From Motor City Madhouse
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at least it is an easy fix...nothing a wrench and some locktite can't handle (it's good that there was a pic.)
Posted on: 2009/6/13 19:27
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Re: FlexPlate to Converter problem..... |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
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Mine is an sfi plate which is the same as stock diameter (basically no balance weight) and it clears the ring. I thought I put the plate with the "embossed"/stamped areas of the plate facing the conv. not the block (reversed from your pic.).
[IMG]http://i42.tinypic.com/211quis.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/6/13 12:15
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Re: Progress on temperature |
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Senior Guru
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personally I like the temps a bit lower. Either way, you need to make yourself something like this :
[IMG]http://i39.tinypic.com/2ufennp.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i43.tinypic.com/smf6nc.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/6/12 15:28
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Re: timing advance problem? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/17 0:00 From Motor City Madhouse
Posts:
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A bad 02 would not effect the timing from advancing. At idle in CL, it should be at approx.20*. I would start by having the module checked.
Posted on: 2009/5/31 3:17
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Re: Final dyno numbers and track times this weekend for the TFS heads |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/17 0:00 From Motor City Madhouse
Posts:
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The numbers look good, I like the hp. tq. balance. Good luck tomorrow
Posted on: 2009/5/30 2:29
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Re: Few Pics of the progress |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/17 0:00 From Motor City Madhouse
Posts:
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I always liked the idea of the lighter crank, and is somewhat cost prohibitive but this was one of my favs.
Depending on configuration weight is 34-47lbs. [IMG]http://i43.tinypic.com/15coyth.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/xeg8lv.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i42.tinypic.com/essyl3.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i41.tinypic.com/156e35s.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/5/29 13:58
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Re: Got the itch for a Grand Sport |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2005/9/17 0:00 From Motor City Madhouse
Posts:
247
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Quote:
full manual autos were what I always used and believed in for consistancy...however, I'd make an exception for a liberty trans.
Posted on: 2009/5/26 3:10
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Maybe old though.
