All Posts (rayquayle)
Re: Spherical rod end suspension is installed! |
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I knew you'd get yours installed before me. I'm still admiring them on my workbench. Please let us know.
Posted on: 2008/7/18 14:28
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Re: 1990 Starting problems |
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Quote:
  Man, where do you guys get this stuff?  It really wasn't worth blowin' the dust off this thread for that!
Posted on: 2008/6/30 20:30
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Re: @#$% Tranny Drain Plug! |
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Amen, Brother! I can't count the number of times I've been asked to have a look at a gearbox problem where someone had managed to drain the box, but couldn't get the fill plug out. ALWAYS remove the fill plug first!
Posted on: 2008/6/17 5:50
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Re: Coolant temp wire |
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Quote:
Here it the schematic from the 1990 manual.  Exactly as bogus described from the 1992 manual, so you're pretty much sure the 1991 is the same. Even the same page! You may want to try looking from underneath. The harness that runs over the bell housing from driver to passenger side, branches off and runs behind the passenger head, down to the starter. The temp gage wire runs in this harness. It runs up the block, between the exhaust manifold and block to the sender. Remember that heat may have discolored the wire, but you're looking for a disconnected wire with a female spade lug connector, so any discoloration should not be an issue. If it was disconnected, it may have fallen below the exhaust manifold and can't be seen from above.
Posted on: 2008/6/15 7:36
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Re: New product offering: rear suspension links with spherical rod ends. |
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OK Tom. PM received and reply sent. Based on the trusted word of Mr. Cunningham, I'll have the dogbones too. Deposit Paypal'd.
Posted on: 2008/6/4 20:00
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Re: New product offering: rear suspension links with spherical rod ends. |
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Quote:
Then count me in, as you've indicated there is enough adjustability to fit '84-'87! I'm with CC though as to go for the dog bones as well. How do I get the ball rolling? Just Paypal the 10% to banskimotorsports@verizon.net? Then wait for contact from you when they are ready to ship and Paypal the balance? Thanks.
Posted on: 2008/6/4 5:35
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Re: New product offering: rear suspension links with spherical rod ends. |
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Quote:
More or less wear depends on so many things it's hard to say for sure. However, I like the Teflon lined because they are "no maintainence". If you forget to grease one of the others you might get premature wear. And I would assume we could purchase replacement rod ends. One question though, would you be willing to ship USPS. That's how I receive my mail through the Military Postal System via USPS. Thanks. They look great BTW.
Posted on: 2008/6/3 17:44
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Re: help wipers driving me crazy |
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This is for the early C4, bit others may want to see the pages.
Posted on: 2008/5/29 18:10
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Re: 96 Rear Bottoming Out |
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Hey Casey, I know this is probably been done to death, but I don't get on that much. Congrats on the VETTE (July 2008) write up. I got to say "Hey, I know that guy"! Car looks great and a nice little story.
Posted on: 2008/5/21 17:50
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Re: Where exactly is #1 on the distributor cap? |
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A bit more clear maybe?
  Handy to keep around the garage, but a dial back timing light is best as you then only need to remember that the deep valley is 0.
Posted on: 2008/5/21 5:46
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Re: egr pipe on a 86 |
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Reusing the ring will depend on how badly you mangle it getting it off. If you can pry it off then you may be able to reuse it. If you cut it off as most people do, you'll need to replace the ring. GM calls the ring a "CLAMP, EGR PIPE (25MM ID)". The part number is 14087580 and they are still available for about $7. Clamping it can be a challenge if you don't have the tool though.
Posted on: 2008/5/15 5:31
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Re: Can anybody identify this connector and wiring please? |
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Quote:
Also many studies have shown you're far less likely to be in an accident while driving without an air bag than without a sterring wheel. I read that in the same magazine that claimed in America, the television is the most watched appliance. 
Posted on: 2008/5/13 17:55
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Re: code 32 |
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Quote:
3) EGR Temp Switch connector or wire (in pipe between intake and passenger side exhaust manifold, has single black wire and plugs into connector behind distributor)
Posted on: 2008/5/11 6:28
Edited by rayquayle on 2008/5/11 16:55:11
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Re: gonna rain tinker job |
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Quote:
I'm replying to CC as frankly, I never have a clue what pappyfreebird is saying. I don't know if it is a mental disability or an attempt at humor, but I'm sure he'd get many more responses and would not be talking to himself in many of his posts if he would post in English or if unable, have someone else (perhaps a young child from the neiborhood that would enjoy getting involved in Corvettes) post for him in English. I saw the words "mirror" and "switch" in pappyfreebird's post and from CC's description I suspect this may help:  This is from the '86 manual. The '84 manual has an error in the switch wiring, so I posted this as it is the same as the '84. As CC suggested, 5 wires and a polarity switch between a pair of contacts.
Posted on: 2008/5/10 9:01
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Re: Wheel center cap locking bolts, Help |
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This worries me as I don't have a spare set. When you say McGard can't help you, what exactly do you mean? They no longer do these or they can't help you without a registration #?
Posted on: 2008/5/3 17:55
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Re: Wheel center cap locking bolts, Help |
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Time for the segment we call "Little Known Corvette Facts".
These locks were manufactured by McGard. The original owner would have gotten one of these:  And a registration card something like one of these:  The registration card is obviously the important part as the Instructions are pretty self explanitory. I'm pretty sure you can still order the Keys and Locks from McGard. I suspect you don't have the registration so I guess you'll have to contact McGard and either buy a new set of 4 locks with key or send them a good key to get a replacement. Try this link.
Posted on: 2008/5/3 7:25
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Re: 84 auto corvette wont start. |
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Way to go scooter!  It's great when folks hang on through all the testing required to find the problem and get it sorted without giving up. Then letting us know the outcome is nice too.The boy done good. :thumbright:
Posted on: 2008/5/2 17:03
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Re: 84 auto corvette wont start. |
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Sure thing, just use a jumper wire of the same guage as the two you're jumping.
Posted on: 2008/5/1 6:09
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Re: 84 auto corvette wont start. |
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I mentioned testing the wires at the Theft Deterrent Starter Interrupt Relay, because I thought you had the DIC still out and had easy access to this area and would allow you to verify the Ignition Switch was working to that point without removing the Hush Panel and getting upside-down in the footwell.
Yes,Theft Deterrent Starter Interrupt Relay is still in the path even with the security feature disabled. A relay will have one or more sets of contacts. Each set will have a common contact, a N.O. (Normally Open) contact and a N.C. (Nornally Closed) contact. With no power applied to the relay, there is continuity between the common and N.C. contacts. When power is applied to the relay solenoid, it pulls the contacts and the common contacts now have continuity with the N.O. contacts and the continuity between the common and N.C. contacts is broken. The Theft Deterrent Starter Interrupt Relay is no different. The power for the Starter/Solenoid comes from the Ignition Switch, through the Park Neutral Switch (this is why I suggested trying to start in N), and then through the N.C. contacts of the Theft Deterrent Starter Interrupt Relay. If the security system were operating normally and the system was armed and a tamper was detected, the system would blow the horns and energize the Theft Deterrent Starter Interrupt Relay. This would break the N.C. contacts which breaks power to the Starter/Solenoid. With the security system effectively defeated, it can no longer energize the Theft Deterrent Starter Interrupt Relay and the power can no longer be broken. But what if the problem was in the relay on its N.C. contacts. There is no continuity between the N.C. contacts due to burned/pitted/broken N.C. contacts. You could test this with the jumper between the Dark Green/White wire and the Purple (or Blue wire;thanks CC). You could also test for continuity between the N.C. contacts of the relay with a VOM on the bench, but you didn't say you had one. The only mention was a power tester.
Posted on: 2008/4/30 6:11
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Re: 84 auto corvette wont start. |
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Check this out:
 In view A, you'll see the In-Line Fuse labeled ANTI-THEFT FUSE. This is the one you pulled and yes, that should rule out the Theft Deterrent module. To the right you see a relay labeled THEFT DETERRENT STARTER INTERRUPT RELAY. This relay should have four cavities used on the connector. Two have Dark Green with White Stripe wires, one has a solid Dark Green wire and the other is a Pruple wire. Use your power tester and test from either of the Dark Green with White Stripe wires to a good ground while attempting a start. If you get nothing, try with the transmission in neutral. If still nothing, it is either the ignition switch or the Park/Neutral switch. If you do get good power on the Dark Green with White Stripe wire, check the Purple wire. If the Purple wire has power, you either have a wiring problem between the Relay and the Solenoid or the Starter/Solenoid is at fault. If you have power on the Dark Green with White Stripe wire, but not on the Purple wire, you may have a bad relay. Pull the relay and jumper either of the Dark Green with White Stripe wires to the Purple wire and give it a try.
Posted on: 2008/4/29 18:38
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Re: 84 auto corvette wont start. |
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Quote:
True, and what many find easier on the '84 only, remove the 10 amp In-Line Fuse behind the DIC. It does virtually the same thing as disconnecting the module, but is usually easier to get to.
Posted on: 2008/4/27 19:40
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Re: 84 auto corvette wont start. |
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No problem, it isn't widely known. In '86 VATS was introduced. It used an additional module, the VATS Decoder Module to read the resistor in the key. It performed an additional function as well. It not only disabled the starter through the Relay behind the DIC (same one used on '84 and '85) it disabled fuel through a squarewave signal to the ECM. The '84 and '85 didn't do this. On the '84 and '85, if you set off the alarm and the engine wouldn't crank, the starter could be jumped or the car push started as fuel was still available. Not so with VATS.
Posted on: 2008/4/27 7:43
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Re: 84 auto corvette wont start. |
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Oh, but it does! If the Theft Deterrent Module is triggered, it energizes the relay behind the DIC and breaks the path to the solenoid. It also blows the horns. What could be happening is that one or both horns has a short. The driver's door lock cylinder theft switch has malfunctioned, so the alarm can't be disarmed from the driver's door. When entering the alarm goes off, but since one or both horns has a short, the CTSY/CLOCK Fuse immediately blows, so the horns don't sound and you won't hear the horn relay clicking. Since the theft module still has power, through the In-Line Fuse behind the DIC, the Starter Interrupt Relay stays energized and the starter won't crank. All speculation as to the cause though, but fact that the '84 and '85 have an immobilizer feature. I'd get behind the DIC and remove the 10 amp In-Line Fuse. This will disable the Theft Deterrent System and see what happens. Quick and dirty, he could try unlocking the passenger door from outside with the round key. This may disarm the alarm and see if he get cranking.
Posted on: 2008/4/26 19:31
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Re: LT1 intake on L98 - my thoughts |
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Pat,
Where have you been all these years?  Who's this handsome lad?  And what is he doing with his other hand? :silent:
Posted on: 2008/4/19 20:05
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Re: 95 Vette - will not crank (behaves like there is no gas - there is) |
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Ouch, I did't realize you had taken it out to Snodland. Get your wallet ready. I can't fault Tom's work, but you will pay dearly. If we'd been closer, I'd of given you a hand. Hope it all works out for you.
Posted on: 2008/4/3 17:16
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RE:85 MAF ? |
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How old is the burn off relay? Not on an '85! '85 is only year to use the Burn-Off Module behind the dash to control MAF, so no MAF Relays on the '85.
Posted on: 2008/2/29 7:12
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RE:Roughly how far behind is the digital tach? |
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I was wondering when you'd get to this point. I should have said from the start, but WinALDL was designed for early C4s that communicate at 160 baud only, so I sort of figured the software would be worse than the dash itself. Later C4s (87-up) can run in 160 baud or 8192 baud. The faster speed is what you need for tuning, but I'm not sure even this will actually keep up spot on with actual engine speed at high revs, but will be better than the dash. You need something like TunerPro to be able to run your ECM in 8192 baud mode.
Posted on: 2008/2/29 7:09
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RE:Looking for GM part numbers |
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It just finished- BIG THANKS! :thumbright: Wow! I knew it would be slow, but 3 hours! I'm really sorry, the problem is at my end. Hope it proves worth it.
Posted on: 2008/2/20 6:40
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RE:Looking for GM part numbers |
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Thanks guys! I got my parts ordered up yesterday. And my link is not very good, so it will take a while, sorry 'bout that.
Posted on: 2008/2/19 18:45
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RE:Looking for GM part numbers |
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Posted on: 2008/2/19 18:33
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Re: Looking for GM part numbers |
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Does anyone have links to factory part number lists, LT1 specifically? I'm looking for some odd things that my usual sources are not turning up. In particular, I'm looking for the crossover tube, banjo bolts and sealing washers. Will this help?
Posted on: 2008/2/19 6:44
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RE:wire retainers |
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I'm thinking Chris Mays moved on, or got promoted or something. Wow, it seems like only yesterday I was dealing with Jeff Kopp!
Posted on: 2008/2/14 21:50
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RE:C5 Brake Upgrade - Still need Brackets |
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Ray, I have plenty of the 85-87 brackets. You were never in jeopardy. It's the 88-96 brackets that go like hotcakes. Sweet! Thanks again.
Posted on: 2008/2/12 23:51
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RE:C5 Brake Upgrade - Still need Brackets |
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Dan, with your payment all brackets are spoken for. Jeff, Did my payment get to you in time? I's hate to miss out on this again.
Posted on: 2008/2/12 9:12
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RE:Whats this little white part? Ignition switch in column area |
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Steve,
I think that white tab is part of the retainer for the key-in reminder buzzer. The two copper contacts that extend from the white plastic to the left at about 10:30 over the VATS contact wires. Even if you removed this piece (plastic retainer housing copper contacts) you'd only lose your key-in warning buzzer.
Posted on: 2008/2/8 6:59
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RE:UPDATE: Steering Column tilt pin repair |
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I will measure and ensure everything is/looks sailor proof! Spoken like a true swabby! 
Posted on: 2008/2/5 18:21
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Re: 84-87 Hood Support Struts Dimensions? |
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Quote: I wrote this paper several years ago when I did mine. I think ZIP has it in kit form as M-3421 for $129.95 though. Let me know how you make out. Your Pacer must be fairly late like mine as the early ones had the scissor prop on the right.
Posted on: 2008/2/1 7:13
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Ray Quayle in England '86 Indy PaceCar, 4+3 NCM Founder #2896 NCM Lifetime #672 Graduate of Gordon's School |
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Re: 84-87 Hood Support Struts Dimensions? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2006/4/9 0:00 Posts:
139
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Quote:
Check out my old ones. (click thumbnail) New ones made a huge difference. Yea, it doesn't look like those old ones had much life left! You sure got your money's worth out of 'em. When I did mine, I updated to the late model gas charged support rod as well as two new assist struts. Lift the hood very easily about four inches and it springs open all by itself! Ended up removing one of the assist struts to make the opening more gentle.
Posted on: 2008/1/31 18:10
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Ray Quayle in England '86 Indy PaceCar, 4+3 NCM Founder #2896 NCM Lifetime #672 Graduate of Gordon's School |
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RE:more questions |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2006/4/9 0:00 Posts:
139
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Quote:
use idnt figged howse ta git er ona bik lif yit??tork dem trans mts to 47nm Now that I understood! 
Posted on: 2008/1/19 10:50
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_________________
Ray Quayle in England '86 Indy PaceCar, 4+3 NCM Founder #2896 NCM Lifetime #672 Graduate of Gordon's School |
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