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Re: Rear Hubs |
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Thanks,
Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/29 4:45
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Any horror stories on any brands lately?
Timken's are easy to get from the local store, about $125.00 each. Just curious befor I buy. Some of the "net" gossip was that Timken was doing a lot of out sourcing the last 2-3 years, no way of knowing for sure. Thanks Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/29 3:43
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Re: We are the proud parents of a bouncing baby... |
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Looks like a good buy. With only 113k there's many miles left without any major repairs.
I'm still looking for a replacement for the ol' GP. Just can't find anything I like yet. Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/26 16:50
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Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!! |
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Good news! Congrats
I never doubted for a moment. Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/21 4:48
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Re: What's On The List For 2013? |
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About the only thing I have planned,and the key word here is "planned",is replacing the half shaft u-joints and possibly the rear hubs.
Got to get the enthusiasm level a little higher first. Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/21 4:45
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Re: That wasn't exciting... |
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Sorry to hear about the accident!
Why do things like this happen when there's always 10 other "fires" going on? Or at least it seems that way. Glad you're not hurt, the Jeep can be fixed. Those things are tough as he** ! Good luck with the Insurance. Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/18 20:40
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Re: Half Shaft U-Joint |
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Thanks for all the replies.
I'm leaning towards the Neapco after some more digging around. They're advertised as "made in USA". But we all know that's a fairly loose claim lately! Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/16 0:25
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Re: Half Shaft U-Joint |
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Quote:
I don't mean to beat a dead horse here, but the confusion continues. Called the drive line shop I've used in the past and they don't stock Spicer. Actually stated they were having some problems with Spicer starting about 5 years ago. They deal with Neapco Brute Force instead. The Neapco and the Spicer is about the same price, if that even means anything now. But, as usuall I can take a simple project and "research" it to the point of craziness! Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/15 20:02
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Re: Half Shaft U-Joint |
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Thanks, I remember that one.
Posted on: 2013/1/15 4:56
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Re: Half Shaft U-Joint |
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Thanks guys.
Actually there is a drive line shop near me, about a 15 min ride. Thanks to vetteoz for the memory joggle! I'll check with them, they built several drive shafts for me years ago. Now, is the coating that's on some brands to avoid the alum to steel problem really an issue? Or could a thin film of anti-seize be OK? Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/14 21:01
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Half Shaft U-Joint |
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I need to replace the half shaft joints in my 89 soon. I assume these are the choice you guys go with?
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p443_ ... 0_series_rebuild_kit.html Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/14 6:01
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Re: Planning out my transmission cooler. |
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Can't really answer your questions on type of cooler would be the best, I've never installed a cooler with a built-in fan.
My concern here would be trying to obtain the "correct" fluid temp as you mentioned. I'm sure this type of info would come from Pete K. I would rather have the cooler firmly mounted instead of using those plastic nails I see used on rad fans. Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/14 1:31
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Re: FIRE! FIRE! FIRE! -- UPDATED 6 Jan!! |
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Just a thought here on grounds. Are your heads alum.? If so then, grounding thru a alum intake base and alum heads might not give the proper ground you need. Just wanted to mention this.
Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/7 3:40
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Re: FIRE! FIRE! FIRE! -- UPDATED 6 Jan!! |
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Good luck! Hope it's a easy fix.
That's a lot of bolt turning! Joel
Posted on: 2013/1/7 0:19
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Re: bulbs |
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Those are 194.
Joel
Posted on: 2012/12/27 4:54
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Re: bulbs |
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If you're talking about the 4 bulbs in the LCD dash, I just replaced mine.
The original bulbs were Stanley #7073, almost impossible to find. I did alot of research on another replacement, and got lucky and found some good info on that "other" forum. Can't remember his name, but he gave me this site to order from. I ordered four, installed them and they work great! Joel http://www.pegasuslighting.com/xenon- ... -bulbs-5w-12v.html#tabtop
Posted on: 2012/12/26 3:27
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Re: Merry Christmas |
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Merry Christmas to all.
Have a safe Holiday. Joel
Posted on: 2012/12/25 16:15
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Re: C68 fan speed setting |
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Quote:
I replaced the Blower motor module 10/31/2010 with a "Factory Air" name brand from Advance. So, considering my luck with these box store parts it's possible. Joel
Posted on: 2012/12/12 4:37
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Re: C68 fan speed setting |
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I've looked thru my FSM and just haven't
got lucky and found any info on this. The more I think about this, it like a "memory" has been lost while in the manual mode. Thanks Joel
Posted on: 2012/12/12 2:38
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C68 fan speed setting |
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I really hate to ask this question, but I honestly can not remember this fan setting acting like this.
OK. Here is what I've got. 1989 C68 climate control. On the control head there are no blinking lights, all control functions seem to work fine, the "auto" mode works correctly, the "manual" mode works correctly. Fan speed can be adjusted, cold/warm can be adjusted. The question I have: when in the manual mode and I have the fan speed set to any number, if ignition switch is turned off the fan speed defaults to the #1 speed(low). Any 87-89 guys with C68 that can check theirs? I've only owned this car for 12 years, seems like I could remember this! Thanks Joel
Posted on: 2012/12/12 1:43
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Early Thanksgiving Wish |
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Just wanted to say have a good and safe Thanksgiving for everyone!
I'm just about to leave for a road trip from Atlanta to Chicago to visit my daughter and her crew, long drive. Joel
Posted on: 2012/11/18 14:10
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Re: C4 Gas Pedal Bracket Installation (1989) |
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Thanks Mat.
Nice write up. Joel
Posted on: 2012/11/4 14:15
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Re: C4 Gas Pedal Bracket Installation (1989) |
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Just curious, did your plastic mount show any signs of stress cracks or obvious wear problems?
Joel
Posted on: 2012/11/4 2:48
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Re: A.I.R. pipe insulation - 1992 |
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So, are you going to be the test mule for this? I would like to hear how it stands up to heat.
Joel
Posted on: 2012/11/4 0:23
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Re: Hood springs, replace - 1992 |
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Yea, I understand. Sometimes it's best to leave well enough alone, at least with me!
Joel
Posted on: 2012/10/26 3:42
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Re: Hood springs, replace - 1992 |
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Is your hood lifting up enough to clear the latch pin when released? If not then it's possible the latch pin needs adjusting for/aft or cross car.
The primary purpose of the springs is to pop the hood up high enough for the "pecker pin" to clear the "fish mouth". After that the hood struts do the work. On my 89 I had the primary rod on the drivers side, plus the short helper rod on the passenger side and it would jump up so fast that I removed the short one. Might want to try a short one in conjuction with primary, I assume yours will have the mounting plates? Joel
Posted on: 2012/10/26 2:22
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Re: Power Steering |
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Like Mat said, it's usually easier with a impact wrench.
Another way, do you have a large pair of channel locks? Wrap a piece of old serp belt around the pulley to help get a better grip and it will also protect the pulley. I've done this many times with good results. Good luck. Joel
Posted on: 2012/10/23 3:42
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Re: bad cluster |
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Quote:
I quickly looked at your web site, all I see is C2 & C3 parts and service? Joel
Posted on: 2012/10/23 2:21
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Re: My New Backyard |
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Very nice!! Looks like you got a nice piece of land.
Joel
Posted on: 2012/10/21 21:47
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Re: Running Rough & dying ..... Looks to be Fuel issue |
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How much fuel pressure do you have? Just because there is fuel flowing dosen't mean there is correct pressure.
One thing at a time, pressure check first! Joel
Posted on: 2012/10/7 21:45
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Re: Analog water temp gage- 1992 |
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I've used this for many years, many different applications and have always had good results.
Joel http://www.permatex.com/products/Auto ... ead_Sealant_with_PTFE.htm
Posted on: 2012/10/7 1:40
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Re: bad cluster |
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This site has a lot of good info on cluster repair. Not a lot of pictures, but there are some if you dig around on some of the different repairs.
Joel http://www.batee.com/corvette/dcrg/index.htm
Posted on: 2012/10/1 3:55
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Re: FIRE! FIRE! FIRE! |
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Just read this thread,glad to hear you're OK!
Did you find the cause of the fire? Joel
Posted on: 2012/9/25 3:19
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Re: Thursday Chat 09.06.12 |
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Quote:
Is the line in question steel from end to end? If so, this might be a easy fix. I looked at this product at the local NAPA today with plans on replacing some lines on my truck. The display had a good selection of fittings, unions, etc. And it does bend very nicely! Joel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XADAMp4CswM
Posted on: 2012/9/7 2:33
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Re: Let's discuss intake manifold installation. |
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The only purpose of the spray adhesive is to simply "stick" the gasket in place during the first initial placement of the manifold. If the gasket moves, it will be easy to spot. Problem is, if it moves during installation then the RTV will be screwed up trying to reposition the manifold.
For the thread sealer on all bolts, this is what I've always done. It helps to lock the bolts, plus all the torque readings will be the same. I don't use the spray sealer on a intake gasket, but I do use a very small amount of contact cement on the front and rear top corners to hold the gasket in place. And what the guys said about the surfaces being clean, this is a MUST. All old gasket material and all oil residue must be removed. I like carb cleaner myself. I chase all threads twice, then use Q-tips dipped in cleaner to remove any debris and oil from the threads. And don't let the silicone "skin" over befor you get the manifold in place, needs to be wet to stick to both surfaces. Snug bolts down to about 2/3 torque, let it set for 24 hrs and do the final torque. This is just my way, and I've never had a intake leak. Joel
Posted on: 2012/9/4 3:36
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Re: Sealer around AC pipe |
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Quote:
That's exactly what I tried to get from a local glass shop earlier. After about 10 mins of trying to explain to some tech guy what I wanted, I gave up and used some black silicone to seal it up. Thanks Joel
Posted on: 2012/8/15 1:09
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Re: Sealer around AC pipe |
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Forgot to mention, the "term" used in the assembly plants for most of this type of sealer was rubber dough.
Joel
Posted on: 2012/8/14 19:55
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Re: Sealer around AC pipe |
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Yea Mat, I've used strips like that in the past for sealing bolt holes, seat belt anchors, etc.
I'm thinking I'll just clean all the old sealer off good and run a bead of black silicone around the pipe. I just don't like the looks of silicone as well as the proper putty. Thanks Joel
Posted on: 2012/8/14 19:52
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Sealer around AC pipe |
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Any one have any suggestions of a good sealer to replace the factory "putty" around the AC lines where they enter the HVAC box?
I've got a fair amount of air escaping around the bottom pipe, need all the cold air on me and not the engine! I've used plumbers putty in the past on other cars, but it dries hard and dosen't last long. Thanks Joel
Posted on: 2012/8/14 17:49
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Re: IAC / coolant passage modification. |
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Looks good Mat!
Really cleans up that area. Joel
Posted on: 2012/8/13 23:44
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Re: A/C Compressor Trouble |
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I assume you have a set of gages hooked up to read the vacuum? Pump should pull vacuum down to 29 inches and system should hold this vacuum. If system will not hold this vacuum, there is a leak somewhere.
Pump and gage set should remain hooked to the car after the evacuation is complete. Just close off the valve from the pump and shut off the pump. The system is designed to hold pressure as well as vacuum. And there is a lot more pressure than vacuum when the AC is running. The main purpose of the evacuation is to remove moisture and trapped air. But, it also shows if there is a major leak. Joel
Posted on: 2012/8/11 17:23
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Re: A/C Compressor Trouble |
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Good luck!
Joel
Posted on: 2012/8/10 23:51
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Re: A/C Compressor Trouble |
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When you say you can turn the compressor by hand, are you sure the compressor is turning or just the clutch? In order to turn the compressor, the ignition switch must be on and then AC set to on position. This locks the clutch to the compressor.
But regardless, if there is compressor oil on the underside of the hood there is a seal that has failed. Usually this is the shaft seal behind the clutch. Was this a new replacement compressor or a rebuild? Joel
Posted on: 2012/8/2 18:49
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Re: A/C Compressor Trouble |
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I had a better link for the picture, but it went away. This should show up ok
Joel http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.d ... 50g~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000050F
Posted on: 2012/8/1 18:53
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Re: Fan on / off temps? |
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I have mine at 215*on,199* off with a 195* thermostat.
Mine is a stock 89. Joel
Posted on: 2012/8/1 15:31
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Re: Are black cars really hotter in the sun? |
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Quote:
Very nice!! Joel
Posted on: 2012/7/27 1:18
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Re: Are black cars really hotter in the sun? |
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I actually spent some time last night doing some reading on this subject. There's been a lot of folks that did a controlled experiment using thermometers, heat/thermal devices and etc. Seems most results did confirm the exterior temps were quite a bit hotter on a black car, but only 5-10 degrees difference in the interior. Of course there was a slight variation with int. color and leather/cloth.
Looks like my "old school" thinking of black cars was wrong! Joel
Posted on: 2012/7/26 20:30
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Re: Are black cars really hotter in the sun? |
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I passed on a good buy last week, 2001 with decent mileage because of it being black. Now tonight a one owner 2001, black, pops up. Just hate to keep passing on these good ones simply because of paint color!
Thanks Joel
Posted on: 2012/7/26 0:52
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Are black cars really hotter in the sun? |
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I know this is really a silly question, but I have not owned a black car for 40 years! I'm looking to replace my dailey driver (totalled the Grand Prix) and I am looking at Jeep Grand Cherokee's. Seems like everytime I find one that interests me it's black.
The car would sit outside, always. My driveway gets FULL sun from first light to around late afternoon. Trying to stay with cloth seats, so that would help some. So, does it really matter if the car is black versus a light clor for heat soak? Joel
Posted on: 2012/7/25 23:56
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Re: ah heck , my ignition lock wont turn |
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Here is a link for a decent set of pictures. I had another better link, but it seems to have vanished. This is for a non-air bag system. Just refer to your FSM for that.
I'll try to find the better link. Joel http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ ... lumn_repair/photo_02.html http://domesticmisfits.net/forums/vie ... rvette+steering+clumn+fix http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/
Posted on: 2012/7/25 0:08
Edited by joeld on 2012/7/25 0:24:52
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