Thanks Bill, that's what I thought, just wanted to make sure before I dropped $300 on a set that wasn't compatible.

The listing I have from Bilstein actually breaks out Z51, ZR1, Exc. Z51, coupe, and convertible etc.

I have installed larger swaybars and almost every car I have owned, yes, I will be upgrading these as well. Do you have any recommendations? I'm not finding many options out there. Most of my catalogs list them as "discontinued." I really miss not having Quickor in right down the street anymore.

AT's on the track huh? Dang it.... now I'll have to add paddle shifters.

What are the differences between the Bilsteins designed for the Z51 suspension and Bilsteins designed for the base suspension? It's time to replace mine and I'm unsure if it's basically a difference in stiffness or are they different in other ways such as length, travel, etc. I have the base suspension with Bilsteins (not sure which ones) now and want to firm it up a bit. Handling is my main concern not ride quality. The car is used for very spirited street driving and probably never see a road course due it being an AT equipped car. Basically, I'm asking if I can run the Z51 shocks on a base car.

Things are starting to come together, new master cylinder is in, new stereo head unit is on the way, new speakers are ready to go in, all sorts of other stuff in route on a UPS truck somewhere too. Taking advantage of CC's window of free shipping. Fun times ahead!

Thanks for all the help and suggestions gurus. Fixed and back on the road!

Love the sound of that.

I think I found the problem. I don't know what this sludge stuff is but some of it must have come loose when I added fluid.

Now, can I pull brake fluid back through the line (vacate the lines at top by the master cylinder)? Or, will this reverse flow hurt something in the ABS system? Or.... should I leave the fluid in the lines until the MC is replaced and bleed the system normally?

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I plan on removing the MC, disassembling and inspecting. I've never done this before so I hope any problems with it are obvious (wishful thinking, I know). From the photos I've seen it looks fairly straight forward, a couple pistons, springs, stop bolts, and about 10 o-ring seals.

Is there a good way to clean out the reservoir? The only thing I can think of is repeated partial fills with brake fluid, shaking and emptying.

Well chit. Looks like it might be down for the winter then. I will try completely removing the bleeder valve on the caliper in question and see if I can get any fluid out soon.

Well, according CC........

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.d ... 32a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000050F

IIRC the Bowling Green plate was used from 84- early 93 and the Mobil-1 from late 93-96.

All set to perform a brake fluid transfusion today and it quickly resulted in no brakes.... pedal goes almost to the floor with the engine off and all the way to floor with the engine on. The Parking brake light stays on... the abs light does not.

I attached the mighty-vac to the right rear and it would not pull much fluid out at all. I then resorted to the 2 person method of bleeding brakes and still just a trickle through the hose. Then..... nothing no brakes at all.

The brakes worked fine before this, the fluid was just black and need to be changed. The last time I had a clogged line (different car) the brakes still worked, they were just weak. This almost seems like a bad master cylinder but what kind of coincidence would that be?

Oh, yeah and I have to pick up my daughter in less than 3 hours... no $$ to buy any parts

My 93 had the same issue and the check valve basically disintegrated when I attempted to pull the vacuum lines off of it. Found a replacement really cheap at NAPA.

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Yes, the guys here have certainly helped me out a lot already. Sounds like those "Vette Techs" could learn a few things from these guys too. Here's to stompin' out this pesky surge gremlin!

It appears that there are several of us on here with the same frustrating symptoms. I found a crack in my TB gasket and hope that had something to do with it. Haven't been able run it long enough to see if the problem is still there. If I had the money, I would buy new IAC, O2 sensor, vac hoses, injectors, EGR valve, FP regulator, etc., and replace them one at a time until I found the problem. My car is almost 18 years old with 125K and pretty much all original so it would need all these things soon anyway.

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Well that sucks. In the middle of doing the samething on an LT-1.

Looking forward to the write up!

Thanks Bill, I knew I had read somewhere that some chemicals would damage the IAC. Thanks for the clarification and the additional instructions. I will tackle this one soon.

What is a safe method for cleaning the IAC?

The front suspension is annoyingly squeaky at slow speeds (under 15 mph). I'm pretty sure all the bushings are factory rubber. I don't see any cracking yet and do plan on replacing them at some point but funds are not available at this time. Is there something I can spray on them (thinking control arm bushings) to temporarily eliminate the squeaks? I don't detect any squeaks from the rear of the car.

Looks like a must try

How much HP could I expect from that mod??

Yuk!

Nice tip..... thanks!

Welcome! White was not my first choice but it seems to work on the C4. Congrats!

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Just $16?? Steal! Well worth the money.

I had built 70 Z28 and the rev limiter in the MSD 6AL was set @ 7200. I hit it more than I probably should have.

Beautiful! Love the wheels.

That's cool. Just might have to add that one to the list.

That's a gas! Wonder what your avatar would do for them???

Ok, so last night I cranked up the Billy Thorpe (Children of the Sun), started the engine with hopes of an amazing light show..... nothing. Just a poorly running LT1. Picked up new wires this morning then gave the thing one more try before pulling the old wires and it ran fine. Actually seemed to run even better than ever. Guess it did just need to dry out. I'll put the new wires on this weekend anyway.

Codes: Mod 1: H72 & H74. Mod 4: no codes. Mod 9: H28 (would be nice to know which wheel(s).

Thanks for the continuing education guys!

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Still light here but that is on the agenda!

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Spark plug wire or a 12 volt?

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Me or the car???

Cleaned up the engine bay and fender well areas a bit and some overspray (water) must have reached the front of the engine. I took it for a drive immediately following and it ran great but a few hours later..... runs like crap. An intermittent light clunk or pop from the front of engine, backfire from the exhaust when applying any throttle and fairly hard to start. Oh, no SES light.

Is this the opti?? And would I be able to tell by removing and inspecting it? I didn't touch plug wires etc. (but have pushed and juggled them since it started acting up) Didn't even remove the injector covers.

Yes, all these little things make a huge difference. I may actually let a passenger (other than my kids) ride in the car now LOL. The best part of all this is that I'm learning about the car. What's there, what's not, and generally how it works. Thanks for all of the encouragement guys!

None of the courtesy lights have worked since I purchased the car. The rear defroster was not operating either. The power door locks were manual only. The right side-view mirror rattled badly. Found a short in the courtesy light wiring, replaced the fuse, a few bulbs and we have lights. Except the driver's foot well light.... it's missing and can't find the housing online anywhere. The rear defroster now works with the driver's side, forward lead disconnected. Now I will need find why that lead is killing the power to the circuit. I shortened the right side lock actuator rod, cleaned and lubed all the lock mechanisms and now both locks work great. Disassembled the right mirror, cleaned all the screws and reassembled with some strategically placed RTV and the rattle is gone. Oh, almost forgot that the driver's seat was stuck in the up position on the front side. Took the seat apart, hooked a drill up to the cable that lowers the front and it's in a usable position again. Now I need to figure out if it's the switch or the motor causing that problem. Yesterday was a good day! Since my budget is at $0 right now, it's nice to accomplish some things for free.

Now I just need figure out how disassemble the lighted sun-visors.... they rattle badly too.

Sweet ride man, congrats! Love the colors!

Very sharp!!

That sucks...

Great heads-up, thanks!

Awesome! Good to hear errr..... read

[Good to have you here. Congratulation on the Corvette.

I see you live in Portland. I grew up there and went to HS in Milwaukie. I played football for the Ducks back in the day. That's why Corvette is green. Nice to see an Oregon guy on here![/quote]

Cool! Small world. A friend of mine has a cousin that went to Milwaukie and played for the ducks.

This car has had a mind of its own when idling and warm. Drives great for about 10 min then idles too low (I usually put it in neutral at stop lights because of this). However, in past several days, the idle climbs to 1000, 1500, sometimes close to 2000 when it's been on the road for 20-30 minutes or so. Up until yesterday no codes (at least in module 4) were present.

Yesterday I took it for 50 mile ride down freeway. About 30 miles in, the SES came on and I was actually happy to see it as weird as that may sound. Maybe something to give me a clue as to what the problem is. The SES did not come on when I restarted the car to head home. It did come back on later in the drive. After I got off the freeway, the idle went low then started to raise up (1000-1500 or so) then back down. Then the car almost died and actually "ran on" or "dieseled" for a couple seconds. Never completely shut off though. The SES light turned OFF at that point.....

Pulled the codes this morning and got the H32 EGR valve or circuit code. While retrieving the codes I also noticed there was no C12 code.

The SES never comes on when the idle issues are present. Is the EGR valve causing all the idle problems or is that another issue? I should add, the fuel pump is pretty loud when the idle issues are present. (the pump is new)

The other codes that came up:

C25, H25 courtesy lights
H72 LCD dimming open
H74 LED display open

I know I'm forgetting something and if I had the cash I would just replace the opti, map, iac, iat, egr, O2 sensors and go from there. I don't have funds to do this right now so hopefully, with help, the issue can be found with minimal R&R.

Thanks so much!

I bought the 93 less than a month ago. It's the first Corvette I've owned. I bought it as a project to share with my 13 yr old son. (He has been on cloud nine ever since!)

I'm reading this with great interest. My 93 is doing similar things. Once it's good and warm it idles too low. (below 500 rpm) Sometimes it wants idle too high but just momentarily... like you, I have apply a lot of brake when it does this. Plugs and wires are in great shape, original injectors and opti. The fuel pump is also new. It doesn't feel or sound like it has a miss... just low and rough. Runs great @ cruise, part throttle acceleration, and WOT.

Starting to think it might be white and red color combo. LOL

Good luck! I will let you know if I make any progress with mine.

Yep, I picked one up at NAPA a couple weeks for about $5.

Congratulations! Have fun with it! I'm jealous.

Most likely

Yep, that was it. Of course the low coolant light came on after I connected it. The overflow tank is 3/4 full so I added some coolant directly to the surge tank. Seems ok for now. Thanks again!

93 Cpe, AT

I noticed an electrical connector was not attached to anything when I was repairing the washer fluid bottle. The inner fender has a bracket nearby that looks like it should have two relays attached but there is only one. Is something missing? If so, does anybody know what it is?

Thank you

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UPDATE: The problem has not returned. The added, or I should say "correct" pressure from the new pump showed me the previous owner did not install the fuel filter very well because it started to leak from the outlet fitting. I replaced it with a new one yesterday. (I think I still smell like gas LOL)

The fuel gauge seems to be functioning properly too. (I thought it might) The car wasn't running out of gas, as the prev owner thought, the weak pump was not able to pick up the fuel.

The idle seems a little low to me. The tach shows it's a bit less than 500 RPM when in gear. (AT) Out of gear it only raises to about 500. This when it's warmed up, it's more like 650-700 RPM when it's first started. I checked the plugs... they look to be new and didn't exhibit any signs of overheating, oil or excess fuel.

I did check codes yesterday. That was kinda cool. The only codes that came up were for the courtesy lights (both history and current). No surprise there.... they don't come on at all. The horn doesn't work and the computer didn't sound it either.

New fuel pump & strainer. The tank and sending unit were clean, no signs of rust or corrosion. So far so good!! Have not been able to duplicate the problems stated earlier. Thanks for all the help everyone! Your insight and contributions are very appreciated.