Thanks for the input.

I'm putting the top end of the engine back together and of course forgot where s cluster of wires go. At the back of the engine one of the wires that connects to the distributor comes down to a condenser that then attaches to a stud with several other wires. Where does this stud attach? Is the a ground strap that attaches here also?

Yes they are the original valve covers. The roller rockers are the Summit brand rockers which I am sure are not a narrow body.

The heads and valve covers are supposed to be from an 86 but when I searched Summit it seemed centerbolt valve covers started in 87

Does anyone know if the stock centerbolt valve covers will fit over roller rockers and what mods need done to accomplish this?

I made up endlinks using QA1 heim joints and what they call a linkage adjuster. I posted picks of it on this site a while back

http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... t_id=79485#forumpost79485

I have the manifold off my 85 and am in the process of replacing sensors also. There are two sensors at the back of the block connected at the same location so I'm assuming one is the oil pressure sensor, not sure what the other one is. There is also a sensor under the plenum and I don't remember seeing a sensor at the oil filter

My Air pump was shot and I also wanted to get rid of all the lines etc. I also added headers which didn't have the lines to connect them to the Air Pump.

I started mocking up my air pump delete pulley and discovered if I turned the original mount for the Air pump around I could use it as a base for my Air pump delete pulley. With a little work it will bolt to the front of the engine in three places. I can also run a brace over to the top of the alternator. When I have it all together I'll post some pictures

The space between the gear and the distributer body is what I am asking about. Vetteoz, thanks for the info. So if I'm reading things correctly there should should be very little up and down movement on the shaft. I do have more than .015. I've shimmed distributers in the past, I just couldn't find a reference to what it should be set to.

I'm just about ready to reinstall the distributer on my 85 and noticed the clearance between the body and the cam gear seemed excessive. does anyone know what this should be?

I'm putting the engine back together on my 85and noticed that the heater hose Tee has a hole in it and the metal is very thin. I haven't been able to find a replacement and was wondering if anyone saw a problem using a copper Tee from Lowes or Home depot?

Dan, I went over the form for the application for antique registration and it seems to rely upon the applicant to say if any engine modifications were made as well as any exhaust modifications. If those were made, then you're supposed to include photos of the engine bay. So what is to prevent you from saying there were no modifications and then you just have to submit exterior photos.

I'm wondering what would happen if the temp switch was left connected? I'm definitely going to use the 86 manifold since I've got it ported and cleaned up. Most likely will make up block off plates.

I have both an 85 and an 86 manifold. Both have a place to mount the EGR in the middle of the manifold. The 85 has the temp sensor incorporated in the EGR mount. The 86 has a separate mount close to the distributor where a tube mounts along with the temp sensor. Is this the external tube to the header you're talking about Centralcoaster? Could this be routed down to the cat? From what I reading I can't run an 86 manifold with the EGR set up like an 85?

Bogus, is there a way to test the EGR? Also can you clean it?

I have an 85 and in Penna I can get an antique registration which means no inspections or emissions test. I've got he heads off and replaced with aluminum from an 86. I've already stripped off the AIR pump, gasket matched everything, changed the cam and added 1.6 roller rockers and was thinking of eliminating the cat and EGR. With an 85 is there any value to eliminating the Cat and EGR or will this create problems with the ECM?

I changed the timing cover when I changed the cam and added an aftermarket timing tab. I was thinking that the balancer had slipped since the timing mark was so far out but when I looked at the elastomer it didn't look like it had slipped. So pretty much the timing mark will line up with the keyway on the crank right?

I'm putting the engine back together on my 85 and found it interesting that there wasn't a timing tab on the engine. Aside from that, when I have the engine at top dead center on the compression stroke. the mark on the balancer is not at the 0 mark on the tab (2 o'clock), it's at 10 o'clock. Is this right? Also was the timing tab left off or didn't it come with one?

Mine also has a crack that I tried to repair. I drilled a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it from progressing and used a two part epoxy but did it with the top off the car and it cracked again. Since then I have also seen other posts where people suggested using fiberglass powder. When I try mine again I'm gonna do it with it bolted in place.

I'm in the process of doing some work on my 85's engine. Doing some cleanup, changing the cam etc. I'm playing with ideas for deleting the air pump and had been toying with not using a pulley to replace the pump but instead use a shorter belt. The problem was after figuring out the size I needed, how to translate that into a part number. I was playing around on Gates web site and noticed that the belt length for an 85 is 88.9 inches and the last numbers of the part number was 888 (KO60888). So I scrolled through the list of belts and found there was a direct correlation between the last numbers of the part number and the length of the belt. Also as long as you stayed in the same KO60 series you could find whatever length belt of the right width. I'm not sure if this is new information, but thought I'd share it anyway

Never mind. I assumed the bolt was metric but right after writing the post I did a little research on Summit and saw that all bolts for 76 to 2000 were the same. Went out to the garage and found they were just plain old 7/16 inch bolts.

I'm in the middle of swapping the heads on my 85 and wanted to chase the threads for the head bolts but I'm having trouble finding a tap. I believe the bolts are 11m x 1.75. Does anyone know if this is correct?

That's what I thought. And here I thought I was being smart by buying all the parts I thought I was going to need ahead of time.

I've removed and replaced a few manual as well as automatic transmissions over the years and they never go back in as easy as the come out. While you have all this apart are you replacing the clutch and pressure plate? This would be the time to do it if they are anywhere near needing replaced. If you are or have replaced them, trying to get the input shaft aligned with the c beam and rear end attached would be a complete nightmare.

Thanks Centralcoaster. I bought a BBK regulator when I bought the cam and other parts. When I took off the plenum I was surprised to see a regulator with a bolt on the top already there. Did the stock regulator have this bolt?

I'm in the middle of replacing my heads and cam, adding headers, roller rockers and an adjustable fuel regulator to my 85. My question as to do with the pressure regulator. it is under the plenum so how difficult is it to adjust once everything is back together?

I will be doing the C5 conversion on my 85 soon and was wondering if the set with 13in front rotors would work with the C5 calipers? Anyone know?

When you say background static when the radio turns on, is this when you have the sirius connected or all the time? If your talking about the sirius only, it is hunting for a signal. My sirius radio in my daily driver does the same thing as it powers up and finds the signal.

Also the service manual has a troubleshooting process for the antenna.

If you go to Comp Cams website you can download a free program that allows you enter in various bits of information and it will suggest several cams for you. Have you looked at their fuel injected cams?

I recently found out something very useful. In Penna. if your car is 25yrs old you can get an antique plate. If you register it as an antique you pay a one time registration fee of I believe $85 and never have to get a state inspection or emissions test. If the car is 20yrs old you can get it registered as a classic car and get the same one time registration fee. You still have to do yearly inspections but do not have to get an emissions test.

VtVette please go over the process for stripping the paint from the bumper using one of the products you listed and repainting it. Also, can you give suggestions for body filler products and paint products for a vette.

I'm glad to see your reply VTVETTE because I was just on a web site looking at the SEM bumper stripper and wondering if it would work. I really wasn't looking forward doing this job with sandpaper.

my concern is with the flaking. I'm afraid of putting new paint over the old, even if it's sanded, and have it flake off again.

I have an 85 and have pulled off the bumper cover. The paint is peeling off it and I'm looking for any suggestions for completely removing the paint.

The kit you listed does not have a lot ofthe bushings you will need. Take a look at this kit from Jegs for the same price. http://www.jegs.com/p/Energy+Suspension/757260/10002/-1

I took the end links apart this weekend and there was a bit of preload. I made the adjustments so the bolts slid easily on both sides.

Thanks Bill. Will check on that, your suggestion has me wondering if the swaybar isn't preloaded and hanging the front end. When I set the end links up the wheels were off the ground

Noise when you corner or turn is a test for wheel bearings. If you turn right and hear noise, it's the left side bearing and vice versa.

My understanding is that if you can fit your hand in the space behind the water pump, you have a "long" pump.

Thanks for the info Bill. To answer Andrew's question I've got things set front and rear so the car sits about an inch over the wheels. Coilovers make it very easy to adjust the height, just turn the nut on the body of the coilover. The shock I used has a single adjustment although you can get QA1' that are double adjustable. I have all the shocks set at 1 so I have some adjusting to do. Right now the front springs are pretty much at their lowest point on the shock. Iam using 10inch 425# springs up front and could go with an 8inch for more adjustment. Will probably drive it awhile and see how it feels on the highway before I make any changes.

BillH, what do you mean by Trammel bars?

The radio was replaced with an Audiovox unit by the previous owner. The speakers are Bose and was thinking about taking the old speakers and amplifiers out and replacing the radio and speakers so I didn't have to mess with connecting old to new.

I haven't gotten it inspected yet so have been taking short trips around the block, going a little more and driving a little harder each time. Did a little full throttle from stand still this weekend and everything held together. The red on the nut is actually loctite. Any thoughts on the rear tie rods? Did a lot of playing around to get them parallel to the half shafts. Also will need to get it aligned front and rear as everything was apart to put in the poly bushings. Lastly, the lower rear shock mounts I did up to move the coilover away from the knuckle and do away with having to space it out on the shock mount to get clearance.

I finally got around to taking some pics of what I've done to my 85 so far. I credit LD85 with a lot of the inspiration on the suspension. I plan on getting it inspected soon so I can start driving it this summer. Next project is headers, cam, get the C5 calipers installed and next year will be paint. I've pretty much settled on silver with black stripes.

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Here are the pics. Actually looks like I used a male a female heim with an extension in between to get the length i needed

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Its been over a year since I bought the parts and think I got them from Jegs. Anyway I used a male rod end and what looks like a female rod end with a longer shaft. From what I remember you could get them in different lengths. I then fab'd up a mount from a piece of 1/4 inch angle steel that used the same mounting holes on the a arm but because of the "L" of the angle it moved the mounting point for the end link forward. I'll get a couple pics tomorrow and post them. I'll also see if I have the shipping lists to try to get the part numbers

I'll post some pics of the rod ends and also of the shock tower I made up

I have an 85 and moved my sway bar forward as well as made up new endlinks and mounts for them. I took some 1/4 inch plate, cut pieces large enough for the sway bar mounts to sit on and welded them to the frame. Then drilled and tapped holes for the bushing mounts for the sway bar to mount to. I had to trim the fan mount to allow the sway bar to slide forward enough.