Good to hear you're enjoying the car! Does sound nice.

Joel

Just one, drivers side.

Joel

What Matt said. Also possibly the inter-lock cable that connects from the shift assembly under console up to the steering col. There's a solenoid at the shifter that acts up sometimes.


Joel

Looks like a perfect trip! Might I say, if your day job doesn't work out you would be an outstanding trip planner! Thanks for posting.

Joel

Good write up. I had to remove my motor and open it up to fish out all the broke pieces. Ya got lucky!

Joel

Actually this is the same thermostat that was in the motor before the pump change, and I did drill 2 holes in before install about 4 years ago. And yes car was on ramps that I have been using for the last 20 years, (4) four stacks of 2 x 8's.

I've been wanting to change the thermostat to a 180* just because of the fan cut on/off changes I made several years ago. 215*\199* . I'll just go ahead and change the thermostat next week and start from scratch on the bleed.

Thanks
Joel

Just looked at that Lisle 24680 funnel, nice tool!

I have burped this thing at least 20 times in the last few weeks. I even ran a lever type rad cap for several days and drove the car around some, every time I stopped I would release the lever trying to get any air out.
Never had any problems with this car burping before this. I've had the coolant system opened many times over the years, and NEVER had this problem.

Now, I can't say 100% there is no air trapped somewhere in the system. I did change all the heater hoses when I installed the water pump, so this did introduce even more air into the system. Seems like a lot of people run these high flow pumps with no problems. Some people have reported problems similar to mine.

Just reading up on these "high-flow/balanced sleeve" thermostats seems logical that they could possibly help this issue, but they are all China made crap. At least the Stants claim they'er USA made.

Thanks for the replies
Joel

Just saw this, sounds like a really nice car. Congrats and good luck with it. Hope it arrives soon with lots of good weather!

Joel

Any experience, opinions, etc. with this product? I've never used one of this type, always the Stant Superstat.

This will be for my 89 with a Edelbrock #8815 water pump.
I installed this pump several weeks ago due to my original leaking out the weep hole. Temps were good with old pump, usually 194-200 at light cruise at 45-60 mph and in town also. Have a 195 thermostat now, with coolant fans set to run at 215*, off at 199*.

After the Edelbrock install, temps are about 10*-20* warmer.
Temps also spike quickly and go back down while just driving along normal. Did not do this before.

Thanks
Joel

http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/16401/10002/-1

looks good. The welds look fine, I would rather have a strong joint the way you did it.

Joel

Good luck with the re-work. It's really a shame this has to be done to a new part! But, that's how it is now in the world of car parts.


Joel

A, B, C D.

Merry Christmas!

Shorts and T-shirt weather here, and warmer on Christmas day.

Hope everyone has a safe and happy season.

Joel

Quote:

Should be: 5370173139283078
until Jan 08 2017

Joel

Hush Panel


Joel

Just to update this: I finally decided to replace the water pump on my 89. Installed the Edelbrock #8815 thru Advance. Got a good deal with a $48 on-line coupon.
I did use the Gates clamps. Used the #32320 on top hose and at the lower hose to radiator connection. Used the #32324,which is a little larger, on lower hose to W/Pump connection. I'm happy so far with the clamps, they seem to tighten down just fine.

Joel

This info is from the 3rd gen F-body forum, but still might have some good tips on back spacing,etc.

Joel

http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/wheels ... hing-you-ever-wanted.html

Thanks guys. I did look at those constant tension clamps, but I'm thinking they're just a little bulky for that tight area where the bottom hose connects to the pump.

I've used the old worm drives for 50 years on cars, very little problems considering the cost and design.

I got to change the water pump soon, that's really the only reason I would like to "upgrade" the clamps. I usually use the Ideal brand clamps, but they're getting to be poor quality in my opinion.

Joel

Yea Bob, I saw these. They look good. But we all know there is never a "all finished" Corvette!


Joel

I'm looking for a better rad/heater hose clamp instead of the old type screw clamp that cuts into the hose. Any experience with these? I'll be using standard rubber hose.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/det ... 2_4908&pt=N0189&ppt=C0075



Thanks
Joel

Good luck!

Joel

I was looking for other stuff tonight and saw this.

Joel


https://summitracing.custhelp.com/app/ ... 0-transmission-dimensions

It's been many years since I had my hands on a TH400, but IIRC the 400 had a electric downshift. The 350 was linkage from the carb.

Joel

Good job on the build-up! Is that the original strg wheel? It looks new in the picture, sooo nice.

Joel

Glad it was a easy fix! I just assumed that kit was a plug-n-play.

The 1989 model year has a slight quirk in the "tune" that requires a longer crank time. Some info here:
http://www.corvetteforum.guru/modules ... id=192657#forumpost192657

If you're sure pump is running, I'd say pull the pump back out. Possibly the pulsator slipped off or even the pump is loose from feed line.

Joel

Check the fuel pressure with a gauge, should be 42 psi with key on engine off.

Joel

Yea, I understand about sticking with a tried and true product. That gas cap took some serious effort to look that good, just a regular polish would have been a waste of time. I use the Nu-Finish on "delicate" surfaces first before the more aggressive cleaners.

Joel

That looks good!
This would be a perfect example of the old saying "the more you screw with the worse it looks".
Have you tried Nu-Finish Polish to clean the bezels? It's a gentle polish that works good.

Joel

Do you have the stock memcal in now, or the "custom" chip?

Joel

Quote:


I agree, works fine. Also, NAPA now has SKF brand u-joints.


Joel

Quote:


Sorry about the link I posted for the pig tail, for some reason I was thinking you had a 89.

Joel

this looks like the pig tail for the relay.

Joel

https://www.eficonnection.com/home/pro ... r-relay-connector-pigtail

If you're trying to check the pump, ground the G terminal on the ALDC and then turn the ignition to on. Just don't leave it grounded for more than a few seconds.

If you're checking the relay just swap out one from the MAF power or the burn-off behind the battery. they're the same on a 89 model.

Joel

I had this bookmarked for some reason, you might get lucky.

Joel

https://corvetteparts.com/item/switch- ... al-warning-lamp-1984-1989

I went thru this several years, but just looking for a pig tail. Never did find a new replacement, had to buy a used one.

Good luck

Joel

Quote:

I've been using these guys for years for parts and have had good service.

Joel

http://www.repairclinic.com/

Sincere condolences to you and the family.

Joel

These are a real pain to find! For years I used the Trico Exact Fit, but they have changed the design on them and they hang up also.
Last set I put on my 89 came from the dealer #12363800 for approx 20 bucks. Worked good. But these are discontinued now!!
Not sure if the part number will cross over, haven't tried yet.

Try #12533416 GM parts.

Joel


I see the Delco # 8-2202 / 12533416 should fit.

So sorry for your loss Matt. Prayers for you and your family.

Joel

You can jack the car up by placing jack under the K- brace. This this the wide metal cross-car assembly that is directly in front of the oil pan. Just be careful not to let jack catch the oil pan when you start jacking.
Next, check fluid level in pump and do not over fill.
Start car and very slowly turn steering wheel left to right,then back without hitting the bump stops. Turning wheel too far will just agitate the fluid making it harder to remove air. Need to do this approx 20 times or more depending on amount of air trapped.
It is a slow process, so don't rush it.

Joel

Yea, that is a true garage find! I'm sure it would take a chunk of money to put that 1 mile on it.

Joel

Part #16183247 for 1994 and 1995 only, H body which is the olds delta line, Buick LeSabre/Park Avenue line and Pontiac Bonnevile. Yard gets $40 each with a 45 day return. There's two more cars there so I'll go back and pull those out next for a spare.

Of course all this has just jacked up the wife telling me we need a "newer" car. Mid 90's are still late model for me.

Joel

I found a 1994 LeSabre at the local yard with damage to the r/s rear, this told me the car was running prior. Pulled the PCM and it was a reman unit,so that was another plus. Installed it and the car started instantly, runs perfect as usual.
Now I've got to decide on buying another reman unit for approx $230 or go back and hunt for another unit in the yard for a spare. Since this is the car I drive to Chicago to visit my daughter, I WILL have a spare just in case.

Just wanted to up-date.

Thanks for the replies
Joel

Thanks Andy. I was suspecting that was the case when I saw two different levels.
I'm going to pass on the Alldata, and shop around for a paper FSM.

Joel

Thank you for that info!

I just found this yesterday, still going thru it now.

Joel

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/JHoop/2011-12-09_203717_2.pdf

Quote:

Thanks for the link. I use a Actron CP9145 scanner on mine and it reads good as far as I can tell. It always shows any codes I've had in the past(only had 2 so far).

Thanks
Joel

Looks like the subscription is for one year as the shortest time allowed. Less than $30.00 for the sub for one car is great but bearable.

I haven't even looked on the E-bay for any manuals, I honestly never even think about looking there.

I'm going to look around for a used ECM for the car today, depending on price, just as a "let's try it gamble"

Thanks for the replies
Joel

Anyone use it? I've got a no-start problem on my 1994 Le Sabre. ( Yea, I know-why not just junks it?) It's still a nice car with 87k one owner.

Injectors won't fire, no pulse, I'm at a dead end.

Thinking about a short subscribe to Alldata for this problem.

Thanks
Joel

Sorry about the car, glad you're OK!
When you start the inspection, use the best flash light you've got. Good luck

Joel