I've read most of the links in the scan/tune section and other online sources for tuning. I've read the FSM's pages for drivability and emissions. And I've worked on every car/truck/bike I've ever owned and I still am at a loss to figure out how or if some of the performance modifications work.

AFPR: It seems to me that with a stock computer, that if one were to adjust the fuel pressure up that he would see a rich condition in open loop. But once the computer closes the loop it would detect the rich condition and lean out the FAR by shortening the injector pulse.

24# injectors: Same as above. Open loop = rich. Closed loop = normal. Except that I wouldn’t think larger injectors would not make their optimum spray pattern at standard fuel pressure.

Larger Throttle Body(TB): Again it seems that unless the stock TB is restrictive that increasing its size could actually yield a lower intake velocity and hurt performance.

Larger MAF: Same as TB but if the comp is getting bad data, isn’t it going to return to normal operation once it relearns the BLMs?

MSD ignitions: CFI-EFI and I discussed this in a thread in the legacy forum. I can’t speak for him, obviously, but I seem to remember the consensus was that a working stock ignition works just fine until modifications get into forced inductions or high compression ratios. The installs I’ve seen of these are very hit and miss. Some look like hacked jobs and some look like they were factory installs. Some people have also bitched endlessly about them crapping out on them. Since they weigh more and draw more electricity, I suspect they reduce power and increase ETs. Has anyone ever done a dyno run before and after a MSD install? What about ¼ mile times?

If tricking the computer into making different choices is the goal of some of the above modifications then why don’t people put in trick O2 sensors that will always read lean or engine coolant temp sensors that will always read cold?

Years ago I read an article that said one should always take a comprehensive approach to performance tuning. The idea of one thing changing the performance was shunned and the idea of custom chip/bin was put forward as the only way to make sure that the common modifications will yield actual results. Otherwise, it’s just pulling the yarn of a sweater.

I’m not saying that what I’ve written here is how things are. I’m just saying that’s how they seem to me. What am I missing?

Worn hinge pins and mis-aligned striker come first to mind.

From outside the car, watch as the door closes to see if it moves up when it latches.

Thanks for the video! Please don't put music in them. If you want to try something different a little naration added may be nice.

Pt 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVXANUkKhgY
Pt 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38roLUkl_sU
pt 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDQnrKMXUiM
Pt 4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjGb7NDCyjg
Pt 5
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k0zKZbD-_w
Pt 6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agOFt3kJ1HY
Pt 7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5ax2fu4ApA
Pt 8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLPWbpzu7Bo
Pt 9
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N99Rstg4xv0
Pt 10 (end)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7tRKYL-9v4

I know the soundtrack's score sounds very dated but for some reason the main theme always sounds...hmm whatever the opposite of hokey is to me. Some nice shots in here of Steve McQueen just before his life turned bad.

F1
Moto GP
ALMS GT1&2
The two (or so) NASCAR road races/year.
Bonneville(sp?) trials (ok not racing but I like to watch people attempt records.)

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I thought the difference between the CV and the MGM was lock washers...

Do people slow down when you overtake them at night?

Sounds like you've got yourself a nice car either way

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With the wheel off you could grab it and give it a good shake and compare its flex to the other side.

I humbly suggest that while you're poking around under there that you check the exhaust hangers. See if one side moves differently from the other. It was amazing to me when I discovered what I was sure was a bearing or u-joint grinding itself to death was just the last hanger's bolt loose.

What about floormat diagrams for C5 Tech/perf on the legacy site?

The talk about Bullet and the best car chase kicked of a random thought. I think one of the best scenes in any movie was the foot chase at the beginning of Octapussy. The double O agent dressed as a clown running for all he's worth, wounded, past the point of complete exhaustion, but he won't quit until his mission is complete. He makes it into the British embasy and then it's as if his mind tells his body it's ok to die now. I loved that scene.

What do you think, too much cam or not enough SeaFoam?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xc9LOxuCnsE

I'm not following the desire to have the rear be a single piece. My car had tint on the rear when I bought it and it's in two pieces. I didn't even know it was two pieces until years later one corner turned up. The corner that turned up is completely covered by the weather strip when the hatch is closed. The seam follows the one of the defroster lines and disapears. I cut the corner off with a razor blade to keep it from pulling and the rest of the tint still looks fine.

What am I missing?

I suspect that vett2vett has jacks and tire tools on the cheap.

It is supposed to be either under the plastic tray in the storage bin behind the passenger or inside the spare. I've seen them in both places.

BTW Is your tire tool behind the driver's seat

Very cool!

Oh and check this out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wagon-wheel_effect

There are a number of welding videos on youtube. Some are trying to sell you a DVD others are just demos of techniques. I did see one that has the camera behind a mask so they could show the formation of the arc and "puddle". YMMV

I thought if you put both Type R and V-Tech stickers on your car you could travel backwards through time.

Oh BTW ever see the rear faux disk brake mod on a rear drum brake car?

Loosely related...

http://youtube.com/watch?v=3t2g28y7_gM

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You've heard people say things like "Some computer error sent my two year old son a credit card application"?

Well the computer didn't make an error. Someone keyed in bad data and the result was a bad outcome. GIGO

I was once asked how long it would take to import a customer database from Access to SQL Server. My answer was "let me see the data". The management team didn't like that answer and kept asking me for ball park figures etc. I told them that it would only take me five minutes if the data were solid but if not it would not be possible at all. I'm glad I covered my ass on that one because of the 3,000 customers in the source there were only four complete records. I built them an interface and set up two teams to key the data. I compared the data from one team to the other and where there was a mis-match I sent it back to them. In the end, it took about three weeks to get the data from paper into the system I created because I was not about to relax the integrity rules and allow poisoned data into the new system.

"We have no crank position sensor to time the spark."

Please correct me if I'm wrong here but the L98's distributor sends a reference signal to the comp to trigger the batch firing of the injectors.

Perhaps they are using this signal and some math to figure out the position of the cam and therefore the crank.

Even if they only get close, it should be good enough for the 92-93 LT1s.

Post up a movie that you think we should see but not a movie that everyone has probably seen already. I think we've all seen Empire Strikes Back and done the frame by frame bit for the metal bikini scene. So what movie did you like that kinda sneaked under the radar?

I'll kick things off with Mr. Frost and Warlock.

These come to mind in no particular order:
gauge
sensor
wiring
(loose, blocked, or disco) pickup tube
(low) oil level
clogged oil return holes in head(s)
Oil filter in bypass mode
worn pump

Does the pressure fluctuate only while at speed? If not, put a mechanical gauge on it and see what the pressure really is.

More pics here

As much as I would love it, I do wonder if I'd ever risk getting it dirty.

<edit> I just want to be clear here. This car isn't mine I just found this magazine article online and wanted to share it.</edit>

I bet you could find a road master wagon 1996 for a song. You already know the LT1 too.

For a classic car, I'd like to take a straight '49 Roadmaster convt. (like in the movie "Rain Man") and put a strong silent engine in it with modern suspension and rack and pinion steering. Some nice sounding hiden radio. I'd paint it BRG with tan leather and top.

I've always like the lines on the BMW 507 too. I know those are all pricy now tho.

Oh and give me a boat tail 1970ish Riv too!

There are a series of pads across the top of the inside of the door. These pads can be adjusted in and out to come to the proper grip on the window. Too much and the window won't move. Too little and the window will flop. The bolts that hold these pads in place are the very ones used by many to cure the sagging door panel syndrome.

If he only had a solution to the newish feature on power windows that cracks them on door open and rolls them up on door close.

I miss my old SAAB 900 Turbo because of how much stuff it could carry when the rear seats were folded down. Too bad that in order to sell more cars SAAB had to change a perfect body design.

These RPOs are from my wife's '92 and weren't on the list in the link above. I don't know if this will help anyone or not but here goes.

*ar9 base seats - leather
*c68 airconditioning electronic climate control
*d7b speedometer driven gear
*d8k speedo sensor
*e5z SPEEDOMETER ADAPTER (DELETE)
*rbt Control sales item 69
*1ay stock order
*45u Polo green II Metallic exterior 1992-93
*64i Light Beige interior trim
*643 Light Beige leather interior
*649 Light Beige safety belts

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I would prefer a USB device that is simply a mass storage device. I wouldn't want any wires running out of the faceplate and connecting to a device I'd have to velcro down visible. I was just thinking of a cable out the back of the HU that would run under the trim to the console where I would mount either a card reader or a tiny HD. So I would need a HU that could control the storage device.

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I guess I have some reading to do.

Is anyone using a head unit with USB? If so, what do you think about it?

Are there any USB capable head units with connections in the rear? I was wondering about connecting to a USB device in the console as opposed to connecting to the faceplate.

Are there any limits on the amount of storage that these head units can control?

TIA

Do a lot of jumping while reclined?


You can have the last word. I'm out.

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Length != height.

If the average human is one foot long then the football field is 300 body lenghts. I don't think size 12 shoes are the norm though. If, however, the average shoe size is 10-10 1/2 then the math works out.

I have a class four PFD that I use all the time. It's rugged and makes any chore that requires my butt on the floor much easier.

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In '94 they put an OBD-II connector on an OBD-I port. The '96 was the first OBD-II 'Vette.

Odds are that the door handle rod has come out of its anti-noise plastic clip. This clip keeps it in line with the accessory panel and keeps it from making a rattle while driving. The clips can be found in the HELP! isle at AdvanceAuto Parts. The clip has likely broken or become brittle enough to let the rod slide out. The good news is that the clips are cheap. As in 4 for $2.50ish. The bad news is that it is a real pita if you have to take that accessory panel out. I would sacrifice the cuts and scrapes on my hands to avoid taking that panel out if I could reach the spot via the holes.

Just curious:

I know that the 4+3 is part auto and part manual. I don't understand how it works.

Does it have a clutch and a torque converter?

Can you take me through the gears from a stop to a 70 MPH interstate cruise?

My local ACE hardware has 4'x8' sheets and will cut to size. I had them make me a window for my beater cherokee when someone smashed and grabbed my wife's school bag that looked like a giant purse. It worked so well that I never really looked for replacement glass.

Cool!

How many miles on it? Is it the I6 or the I4?

I have the 1993 Jeep Cherokee FSM in PDF format. It's 15.2 MB zipped. Tell me how to send it to you if you would like it.

"Who rides?"

My wife and I do. I have a Suzuki VX800. She has a Honda 450 and a Yamaha 125 scooter. I get sour looks when I ride my bike to one of her scooter club meetings but they have other members without scooters so it's ok. She gets sour looks when she rides her Hondamatic to motorcycle venues. I just like anything on two wheels...even Harleys :P

Wear goggles too. When the bag is out, lay it face up on the bench. Some advocate waiting several minutes after the battery is disconnected before begining. I wonder if there is a charged capacitor that fires the bag and that's why they wait.

The only thing to consider about putting the compressor in the Honeycomb Hide-out is that you'll have to get at the drain cock after each use. (Am I the first to write "cock" on the forum?)

I was thinking of one of these should my compressor or its motor ever fail.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf ... item.taf?Itemnumber=93786

For now, though, I just turn it on and leave the area until the 25 gal tank is full then I turn it off to use it. I rarely have a project that uses all the air out of a full tank.

I'm going to be working on my wife's '92 coupe tomorrow but I only have the FSM for my '94. I will likely need to R&R the regulator assembly. Is there anything that's not in the FSM that will be a gotcha when I get into it?

If you think it would be useful, I'd snap some pics of my saggy door panel fix for her car as well as anything else that's in there you think would be pic worthy.