qwiketz;
Hi guys. I have a vortech supercharger kit for sale that fits 92-96 vettes with the lt1 or lt4 engine. It is a bolt on kit and you are able to retain your ac and all of the accessories. It uses the S trim compressor which is CARB legal. Price is $2250 and has been dropped from $2600.

The kit is highly upgraded. If you’re serious about getting a kit that works out the gate, this is it. You will not have to worry about belt slip or bleeding off boost from leaky bypass valves with this kit. The upgrades are:

- vortech mini race bypass valve (approx $250)
- 7 rib upgrade from 6 ribs
- Bracket modified for dual idler pullies which give more belt wrap ($750)
- Brand new tensioners (cost $110 from ford)
- Larger diameter inlet tubing (4” compared to 3”)
- Homemade anit rotation valve(better directs the air flow to the compressor)
- Discharge tube is drilled for dual alcohol injection nozzles
- Huge k&n air filter

All of these things are things that you’d want to do if you want to get good power out of the vortech kit. The stock kit is prone to belt slip and the stock kit doesn’t allow easy belt changes. The stock kit requires about 3-4 hours to change the blower belt and with this kit, it can be done in 15 minutes. I was getting belt slip at 6 psi with the stock setup and the new setup included here allowed for 10 psi of boost reliably and without slip. I have the kit instructions and all the little bolts bagged up.

To complete the kit, you’ll need a 255lph in tank fuel pump ($75), spark plugs a heat range colder and gapped tighter, bigger fuel injectors, and a tune to handle the spark needs and fuel needs. If you need injectors, I can offer to sell the injectors on my car which are 38’s. I’m pulling them off to install 60’s.

If you’re looking for a night and day performance difference, then this is it. This kit will reliably work on pump gas with alcohol injection and make excellent power. Even on junky 91 octance California gas, I never had a problem with detonation.

With all this work done to the kit, you’re probably asking why I’m selling it. Well, I’m selling it because I just upgraded to a vortech ysi compressor with custom bracketry and discharge tubing. Let me know if you have any questions, technical or otherwise. I can be reached at russriggs@yahoo.com . The kit is in CA and if you're local, you're more then welcome to come by and check everything out. Here's some pics of everything:

everything installed:


the head unit


here's the bracket with dual idler pullies. the tensioner pictured has been replaced since this photo was taken


more parts of the kit


here's everything else. Not pictured is the polished discharge tube that connects the blower to the throttle body. Also not shown is the polished bypass valve.

Brian Cuningham flew out to hang out for a few days to cehck out some parts weve picked up for his build and hang out here to get out of the Denver cold. My place looks like an auto parts store. Heads, intake, blower, motor parts, and now a B&B exhaust a (new) member andrew_huh brought over.

cuisinart

First chance I've had to look back at this, been to busy:crazy:
I worked on the model a bit more, dropped the head flow down a little because it looked high compared to most posted numbers.
Also pushed on the Vortech model after running some chevy and ford combinations I found posted.
Anyway here is a 350 vs. 383, everthing the same as the last model except a little less head flow and a different VS-1 model, using 290 cam (4.03 bore, 3.75 st, 6 inch rod on the 383)...


SuperL98

Brian Cunninghams heads freshly soda blasted and flowed...
Very similar to the #s pulled off the web, never hurts to double check it.

Ron








Heads and intake will be ported and the flowed (again) seaprately and together. Just for reference. Odd intake port shape.....
Ive seen #s printed out here but no charts yet, just curious.

CentralCoaster wrote:
Finally got everyone off my back and got some time to install these.











Car feels great. It really freed up the rear suspension. The car actually dropped a bit due to less binding, yet I did not adjust the ride height at all. I scraped my exhaust for the first time after backing out of my steep driveway. (Car is lowered.) I can articulate the rear knuckle easily by hand when the car is on jackstands.

Going over speed bumps, I hear the front end squeak and bounch with the poly bushings. Rear end is quiet as a mouse and transmits less to the chassis.

Took it in the twisties, but improvements there are going to be impossible to quantify without lap times.

I don't know when my next track day is, but I'll have to repeat a track that I've been to recently and compare. May not be until a few months from now when it cools off.

.....

Everyone (without these installed) seems to think they'll ride very rough.

If anything, I found the opposite to be true. Now my car has never rode very smooth, but with the new Bilsteins and these installed, it's as good as ever. I had poly bushings on prior to this, and petrified stock rubber bushings on before that.

I'm not convinced how spherical rod ends can hurt ride quality, when you can easily articulate the suspension by hand, that means the suspension can react quickly to an uneven road surface. The stock pieces in their bound up state are very stiff and hard to move, and so they would transfer more energy directly to the frame, not allowing the suspension to soak it up.

I'll get pics this evening.
Posted on: 7/18 14:06

BrianCunningham wrote:
Yes, but with the stock C4's it's even worse since it's not a ball joint, but just a rubber bushed cylindrical hole, that really should just be used for 2d movements.

Here's a recent pic of my stock suspension, you can see the old stock rubber bushings binding up so much that they are being forced out.

[IMG]http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff87/swiftwood/BayStateCorvetteClub/members/Brian%20Cunningham/upgrades/Full_droop_rear.jpg[/IMG]

Next time you have your wheels off, or it's up on a lift, check it out.

Poly bushings would actually make it worse since they take away compliance in the the off axis direction.

BrianCunningham wrote:
...

I talked to my tuner, SloRvette, he's going to order me a custom cam, injectors and handle the tuning.

Also, when I bought my AFR's I did so for a 383 build, so they have large 65cc chambers. He said he's put a S-trim on iron LT1's with stock bottom ends and they've handled it no problem. So even though my S trim has been upgraded for more boost, with the compression lowered by the large chambered heads, I can go with the stock bottom end no problem.

-----Original Message-----
From: brad <brad@qmpracing.com>
To: swiftwood@aol.com
Sent: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 3:46 pm
Subject: Re: LT1 383 shortblock for a blower

Hey brian
i am working on a new program for the main caps on your block
instead of using a stepped cap like everyone else
i want to use a flat cap that way you would get a better register in the block
its taking a little longer than i expected but the result will be far greater
Thanks
Brad

-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Lagman <brad@qmpracing.com>
To: swiftwood@aol.com
Sent: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 6:38 pm
Subject: RE: They want to know how long to build a motor

Hey Brian

I decided to machine another 3/16 key in the crank 180 deg from the orig

This way you have 2 keys holding that hub

That will be much stonger that way especially in a boost situation

Thanks

Brad

-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Lagman <brad@qmpracing.com>
To: swiftwood@aol.com
Sent: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 5:17 pm
Subject: Engine

Hey Brian

Thanks for your business!

This engine came out really good I think you will like it

I was explaining the whole main cap issue with you

When people normally convert a 2-bolt block to a 4-bolt they normally use a stepped cap to fit in the stock 2-bolt registers

The problem with that is you have to have a .002-.005 air gap under the ends where the extra bolts go through so you are definitely

Flexing the cap the way we do it is that we machine a whole new register in the block so you have the bottom of the main cap completely flat now you have full contact with the block not just the step.

This way is harder to do (if you do not have a cnc machine) that’s why most shops use the step cap they just bolt them on and drill it with a drill bushing and tap it. I am not knocking that way, hell I used to do the same thing. Now we have a better way of doing it so we pass that on to our customers. Our shop is outfitted with the latest in machinery. I pride myself in having the best equipment available. So we can build a better engine for you.

Thanks again

Brad

gkmccready;
For sale are a car set of HardbarUSA/LEMD Penske 8100 double adjustable shocks. I bought these shocks from Gary Hoffman @ HardbarUSA directly off his C6Z. They are suitable for all C5 and C6 applications. I am asking $2500 (plus shipping) for the entire set up.

They have recently been back to HardbarUSA/LEMD for a checkup on the dyno and to have a couple of seals replaced (preventive maintenance).

Pic of complete set up:


Pic of the rears, note the Mallett upper plate:


Pic of the fronts:


Pic of rear bump & rebound adjusters:


Pic of front rebound adjusters:


These are a steal at this price. 39% off what the new equivalent (Penske 8300s) would cost you! This package works great, street or track. If you've been on this forum any length of time you've seen numerous people rave about them!

DropTopCE wrote:

My how time flies.