jimmers wrote:
The injectors, fuel pump, coil and wires are brand new. They have about 200miles on them. When I pressed the gas pedal down it didn't even try and go. The rpms didn't go up at all.
The car had just under a full tank. When it happened I shut the car off and started it right away and the problem was gone.

jimmers wrote:
The injectors, fuel pump, coil and wires are brand new. They have about 200miles on them. When I pressed the gas pedal down it didn't even try and go. The rpms didn't go up at all.
The car had just under a full tank. When it happened I shut the car off and started it right away and the problem was gone.

CentralCoaster wrote:
How is a filter or cap going to fix itself after restarting? That doesn't even make sense.

jimmers wrote:
I checked for codes lastnight, but there wasn't any!

Blade_1 wrote:
Yup - fuel pressure.

Check it static (motor off), idle with vacuum on FPR, idle with vacuum off FPR, and pedal down (gauge taped to the windshield).

This last one you really need to do, to make sure of enrichment for acceleration...

CentralCoaster wrote:
How is a filter or cap going to fix itself after restarting? That doesn't even make sense.

CentralCoaster wrote:
How is a filter or cap going to fix itself after restarting? That doesn't even make sense.

CentralCoaster wrote:
I guess I read a lot of tech posts where it seems like people replying didn't read the first post. My apologies.

CentralCoaster wrote:
Personally I think many of the replacement injectors are louder. Perhaps it's because the injectors are a bit longer and bottom out against the intake base which makes it transmit more noise. A fix for this is putting washers between the fuel rail and base. This is especially a problem with some of the aftermarket intake baseplates. Also I've heard of this binding the injector housings up and causing them to stick open or shut.

Keep in mind everytime the injectors shut, the fuel is still flowing towards them, and it hits this now dead end, and slams into it and makes a pressure spike. This tranlates to noise and vibration at the injectors and fuel lines. If the injectors aren't bottomed out, they should be cushioned a bit from this shockwave (water hammer) by slight movement of the orings.

Blade_1 wrote:

It doesn't matter if you have a new pump or not. If the regulator does not respond properly to increase vacuum, or if the vacuum is leaking somewhere, you won't accelerate.



You have a problem accelerating?
Check fuel pressure for increase pressure under pedal down conditions. Vacuum from pedal down must be correct to enrich fuel pressure for acceleration.

Blade_1 wrote:
What happens if you don't get fuel enrichment?

anesthes wrote:

The amount of fuel pressure pulled under vac is very minor.

-- Joe

Mekanic wrote:
If your pressure is leaking down after priming the rails then its either a stuck injector or the check valve on the pump

Mekanic wrote:
no, you should keep pressure LONG after shutting off the car, or priming the rails with the engine off.

By LONG after, I mean I've been sprayed by the schrader valve after the car has been off for over a week

Mekanic wrote:
If your pressure is leaking down after priming the rails then its either a stuck injector or the check valve on the pump

Blade_1 wrote:
Oh.

Ok...

So let me ask the question again, since I didn't see any wording that answered it...

What happens if there's NO FUEL ENRICHMENT?

answer will be something like:

"If there's no fuel enrichment, ________ ."

jimmers wrote:
Ok well I've been playing around all day so far and heres what I found.
I start the car the fuel pressure goes up to about 45psi, then dies.

jimmers wrote:
The fuel pressure goes down to 0. Once it dies the fuel pressure goes back up to about 45psi and I can start it again. So it's completely loosing fuel. When I turn the ignition to on the fuel pressure stay's steady at 45psi and slowly goes down. That makes me beleive that my injectors are fine and not leaking. Could it be the FPR, or a vacuum problem?

anesthes wrote:
The fuel pressure dies or the car dies?

How long does it take to fall when you prime it? (key on)?

jimmers wrote:


The fuel pressure and car dies. The fuel pressure will go down to 0, and then the car dies. But right after the car dies the fuel pressure goes back up to 45, then I can start the car again.

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

jimmers wrote:


The fuel pressure and car dies. The fuel pressure will go down to 0, and then the car dies. But right after the car dies the fuel pressure goes back up to 45, then I can start the car again.

Well... When the car dies the ECM energizes the fuel pump so it re-primes. The oil pressure switch keeps the fuel pump energized as long as their is oil pressure, and the ECM keeps it energized as long as their is reference pulses.

It could be a bad fuel pump, though they normally just die.

The drop in fuel pressure suggests the injectors are in fact firing. Since they are firing, you MUST be getting distributor reference pulses since that is how they fire.


I wish I could get my hands on the car.

-- Joe

jimmers wrote:
I hooked up my 12v light to the fuel pump source again and started the car.
The light will turn on while the car is running. When the car stalls the light will remain lit, and turn off about 2 seconds later. So I guess the pump is getting a good 12v source.
Seeing as how the pump dies before the light, I can assume that the fuel pump itself is bad. Correct?

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

jimmers wrote:
I hooked up my 12v light to the fuel pump source again and started the car.
The light will turn on while the car is running. When the car stalls the light will remain lit, and turn off about 2 seconds later. So I guess the pump is getting a good 12v source.
Seeing as how the pump dies before the light, I can assume that the fuel pump itself is bad. Correct?

If the fuel pressure is dropping BEFORE the light goes out, then I'd guess the pump is failing.

I had a boat once, that would run for a minute or two and the engine was die. Mouse in the fuel tank kept getting sucked into the pickup. Fuel pressure would drop, engine stall, then the mouse would float away from the pickup and I'd be able to restart the engine. Food for thought.

Anyhow. if the fuel pressure IS in fact dropping it's pump related. Rule out ECM, FP relay, etc since you have good power. If the fuel pressure is NOT dropping, i'd move my bet to ignition.

-- Joe

jimmers wrote:
Thanks for your help! The fuel pressure does drop to 0 psi before the light goes. I think I narrowed it down, but I'd love to know for sure. Are there any other tests I can do to know for sure?

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

jimmers wrote:
Thanks for your help! The fuel pressure does drop to 0 psi before the light goes. I think I narrowed it down, but I'd love to know for sure. Are there any other tests I can do to know for sure?

If it was a no start you could do a volume test. I think you either have a failing pump, strainer, filter, etc. I'd replace all since the cost is so low and get on with it.

-- Joe

Ramrod wrote:
I ain't no Guru, but mine did the same thing with a dirty fuel filter and fuel pump filter, was sucked up into the pump???? Changed both and it's been 12 months since, cheap fix maybe?

jimmers wrote:
Well it turns out my fuel filter was the culprit. Something inside broke and when under pressure blocked the line. Again thanks for everyones help!

Thanks for the update!