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| rickreeves1 | LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I'm starting a new thread because I have a million questions about this. I figured it's better to keep everything in one place. I'm shooting for next weekend which is when Mardi Gras kicks into full gear. I decided to skip it this year to do the install. I should have about five days to complete the install. I'm going to install the cam without removing the motor. I have most of the parts already and the rest should be here next week. I would really appreciate all the help I can get especially next Friday(2/20) through Tuesday(2/25). I'm sure I'll be posting a lot. If anyone in the Covington La. area would like to help that would be great too. Even an emergency phone contact would be appreciated.
Here's the parts list... Custom Grind Billet Cam 226/234, 565/565, 109 LSA Patriot Gold Extreme Springs Kit (8501-BSBC) Comp Pro Mag 1.6rr (1305-16) Trick Flow Pushrod Guideplates (30400623-8) 7/16 ARP Rocker Arm Atuds (134-7103) Trickflow Chromemoly Pushrods 7.150" (21407150) Trickflow Adjustable Pushrod Length Checker (9000) GM LS7 Lifters (1249935) GM Delphi Optispark (CZ20003-11B1) Cloyes True Roller Timing Chain (9-3145) *Meziere EWP & Wiring Harness (WP118-HD) PSMFORLESS Updates Custom Tune *LT4 Knock Module (16214681) Miscl. GM Gaskets *NGK TR6 Replacement Spark Plugs-Nitrous Cam Lube 2 Gallons non DexCool Antifreeze Engine Degreaser Anti Seize WD40 Specialty Tools?? * = Already Installed Questions to follow... |
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Posted on: 2009/2/14 16:26
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95-Lt1-auto-Polo-Conv, 125hp ZEX N2O dry, LE Cam 226/234 565/565 109LSA, Comp Pro Mag 1.6rr, Patriot Xtreme Springs, PCMFORLESS, K&N, AO Ram Air, 52mm TB, EM LT Headers, X-pipe, Meziere HD EWP, Vigil 2800, TransGo Shift Kit, Pro-Built Trans, 24lb SVO'... |
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| rickreeves1 | Re: Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I have the Factory Service Manuals. I found these tutorials/sites that I will be printing up and reading over in the coming week. These may help some others also. Please post any that I may have missed.
[URL="http://www.hashmarks.com/techtips/hot_cam.htm"]http://www.hashmarks.com/techtips/hot_cam.htm[/URL] [URL="http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html"]http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html[/URL] [URL="http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm"]http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm[/URL] http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/ ... reliable_build/index.html [URL="http://www.zmydust.com/headsandcam.html"]http://www.zmydust.com/headsandcam.html[/URL] [URL="http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/guides.htm"]http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/guides.htm[/URL] [URL="http://www.97transam.com/97ta-cam.php"]http://www.97transam.com/97ta-cam.php[/URL] [URL="http://www.cis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/buildup/cam/"]http://www.cis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/buildup/cam/[/URL] [URL="http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_camdata.htm"]http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_camdata.htm[/URL] [URL="http://www.boxwrench.net/"]http://www.boxwrench.net/[/URL] [URL="http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance/1788823-cam-change-in-car-or-out.html"]http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance/1788823-cam-change-in-car-or-out.html[/URL] |
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Posted on: 2009/2/14 16:28
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| rickreeves1 | Re: Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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First couple of questions...
I was told that the oil pump driveshaft gear should be replaced due to a weak nylon piece. Does this apply to the LT1? If so whats a good replacement part? |
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Posted on: 2009/2/14 16:32
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| Hermit | Re: Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I don't know that there's an upgraded replacement for the pump drive. There might be but I've never heard of one if there is. More Performance (who's no longer in business) offered an "oil pressure saver" which is just a hardened steel reinforcement plate that goes over the top of the pump drive and comes with a longer bolt. The torque spec with this is increased to 18#, up from 14# for the stock bolt. A dab of Loctite recommended here too. Maybe you can find one of these, I've used one for years. And yes, due to the composite type material the pump drive is made from, replacement is always a good idea. It becomes brittle with age and can unknowingly crack when retightening. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/14 17:28
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Update:
I called PCMFORLESS and emailed Bryan. I should be able to get the new tune emailed in time for the install. I asked for one tune NA and another with the 50sh, 75sh, 100sh, and 125sh of N2O. I also inquired about reusing my SV0 25# injectors or upgrading to a bigger injector and fuel system. Thunder Racing in Baton Rouge can send the pushrods regular one day shipping. Hopefully I can get to the point of checking length and ordering them by next Monday to receive them by Tuesday. I need to call back now and make sure they keep various sizes in stock. I called the local Checy parts dealer. They want $62 for the new oil pan gasket and $77 for the oil pump drive stub. I was told the drive stub may benifit from being replaced due to the different wear pattern of the new cam. Sounds expensive for a Oil pan gasket. I'm going to start calling around for the FelPro one. The guy knew nothing about using LS7 lifters in an LT1. I aksed him to look up a 2008 LS7 corvette and he said it lists the same part number for an LS1 (#17122490). Is that the correct part number? I need to get these ordered today to have them by Friday. I'm still a little confused on the oil pump drive shaft. I spotted it in one of the FSM diagrams. I was told ARP and also Melling makes one. Anyone have a part number? Should I even bother with it? How difficult? It looks like you just unbolt the oil pump, remove the old one, and insert the new one. Is there enough clearance to get it out on stands? Thanks to everyone! |
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Posted on: 2009/2/16 17:49
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| tjpreul | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I never had troubles with my opti, but why keep it.
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Posted on: 2009/2/16 19:03
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Vegas wasn't built on winners. '92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96. Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC |
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| BrianCunningham | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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replace the front seals your keeping on the front.
of course, a plug for where the WP drive was. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/16 22:12
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Polo Green 95 LT1 6-spd http://mysite.verizon.net/vzevcp74/ 383 LT1/Vortech Supercharger/AFR heads/Rod end suspension/Penske-Hardbar dual rate coilovers/Wilwood 6pot brakes NCCC Governor: http://BayStateCorvetteClub.com |
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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 New update:I just ordered almost everything needed from Summit Racing. They had the FelPro Gaskets cheaper than Chevy. I got Felpro intake gaskets($23), Felpro one piece oil pan gasket($42), GM Valve Cover gaskets($22), SLP hardened Oil Pump driveshaft($12), LS7 lifters(#12499225 $121), NGK TR6 spark plugs($3 each), Pushrod Length Checker($12 #TFS9000). Everything should be here in about 3 days. I have most of the front gaskets that I never got to use when I did the water pump install. I need to order the water pump gaskets and oil pump drive stub from GM. I also need to order a new vacuum line from the optspark to the intake. The old one is cut through from the belt/pully. This seems to be fairly common. I wrapped it with electric tape last time. I'm stopping by the parst dealership right now for these. I also need to pick up some longer bolts to remove the cam without scratching the journals. I have a harbor freight puller for the balancer/hub but I'm not sure if/how well this will work. I need to go back and look through some old threads. See pic below. Should I look for the other type with three legs? I also need a spring compressor. What's the cheapest/best option that I can pick up locally? I may take someones suggestion and burrow one from autozone. Will most types work with my valvetrain I've ordered? I need a ft/lbs torque wrench and an in/lbs torque wrench. The ft/lbs has to go high enough so I can do my wheel bearrings in a few weeks which I believe is 250 ft/lb. [COLOR="red"]Suggestions on what torque wrenches to pick up locally? [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/09-15-08_0809.jpg[/IMG] Edit Newer Update: The Oil Pump stub is nowhere to be found. I've called every parts store on the planet. No one carries it but GM. I even called the local AC Delco distributor and they are also out. GM said they would have to order it from the out of state warehouse which could take anywhere from 3 days to 1.5 weeks. They can't give me an exact delivery date due to plant closing, restructuring, and ****ty weather. It looks like I'm stuck with reusing the old part. Hopefully it isnt broken or worn too bad. I found a company called Herron Performance that will soon be making a billet piece for about $130, not soon enough for me though. Anyone know what size freeze plug will fit the WP drive hole. I'd rather use that then trying to JB weld a 50 cent piece. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/16 22:27
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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So here's the pullers that are available from Autozone to rent. Which one will work best? I want a second as a backup, just in case.
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/AutozonePullers.jpg[/IMG] Here is the valve spring compressor available to rent. Will this work on my Patriot Extreme dual springs? [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/AutozoneValveSpringCompressor.jpg[/IMG] I may even rent the torque wrenches from Autozone until I buy some really good ones at a latter date. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/17 2:53
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| CentralCoaster | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Try kragen. I recall they charge a little, but they have a kit for rent similar to the one in your 2nd to last post.
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Posted on: 2009/2/17 3:03
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1985 Z51, ZF6 |
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| Josh | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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It sounds to me like you are under the impression that you have to pull the oil pan to swap out the oil pump drive. While you do have to pull the pan and pump to swap out the rod, the drive just unbolts from the lifter valley and pulls out. There is no need to remove the pan if all you are planning to do swap is the drive.
You can swap just the gear on the drive, you don't need to replace the whole drive. Any conventional distributor gear for a roller cam will work, you should be able to get a stock replacement distributor gear at any auto parts store. The drive is made of a composite material, it's not steel, so it can break/crack when reinstalling the bolt if you over tighten it. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/17 3:22
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"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail." - Jack Burton |
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| Schrade | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I must have been lucky on my balancer. I spotted it with WD-40, and an hour later I just got a grip on and off it came. Didn't even tap it to loosen.
In fact, I had a bear of a time gettin' it BACK ON, cause I didn't know the 3 studs are offset, JUST A LITTLE. My veins were poppin' gettin' that guy back in. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/18 6:48
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LT5, Marc Haibeck ECM module, AUTOMATIC!!! 
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Quote:
 That's the first I've heard of this. I'll see if I can find one. I just ask for any distributer gear for a roller cam then. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/18 18:05
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| dan0617 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Umm...don't mean to steal the thread but I have a quick question now that you mentioned that Josh.....is a flat tappet cam distributor gear any different than a roller cam distributor gear? I just installed an engine with a flat tappet cam and I re-used the same distributor and drive gear that I used last year on my factory roller cam engine. Is this a problem?? |
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Posted on: 2009/2/18 18:36
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´89 Vert, 383, 230/236 cam, AFR 195's, LT Headers, HSR intake, 2800 stall, Zex 200 shot, ET Street Radials, tune by me. Runs were with D36 3.07's. On spray, 10.55 @ 132.78, 1.55 60 ft. On motor, 12.08 @ 113.15, 1.66 60 ft. |
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| biggrizzly | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I'm not sure what you guys are talking about here. There is no distributor drive gear per se on an LT1 since it has the opti up front. There is a stub shaft with gear that drives the oil pump and it is steel on the LT1. (I assume that is what you all are talking about)
For what its worth, my factory original oil pump with 150k miles on it was inspected cleaned and replaced with the original coupling. It now has a couple thousand miles on it with no incident after the rebuild. Oil pressure is still great. Unless the gear on the stub shaft is dicked up, I wouldn't mess with it, but that is my non-chalant approach to the mechanicals. I might replace the water pump drive gears and shaft depending how they look. Rick, how many miles on the engine? |
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Posted on: 2009/2/18 18:55
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Don Haller Corvette Club of America 94Coupe, 383Stroka, PeteK Trans, 3000stall, 3.54rear, Konis and bigger sways. |
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| biggrizzly | Re: Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Quote:
You must be talking about the coupler. Inspect the coupler, but it should be ok. If not you can get just the coupler. The gear is not nylon. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/18 18:57
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Don Haller Corvette Club of America 94Coupe, 383Stroka, PeteK Trans, 3000stall, 3.54rear, Konis and bigger sways. |
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I already ordered and SLP hardened drive shaft to replace when I pull the oil pan. I was looking for a new replacement oil pump drive stub. I was told that it may not be a bad idea to replace it since I was swaping the cam and it may have a different wear pattern on it. Also the cheap plastic piece that it bolts down with seems to break on a lot of people. I think what Josh was telling me was that any regular distributor gear for a hydrolic cam would work for swapping the gear only. I recently found out that Herron Performance will be making a billet replacement piece in the next couple of weeks. Too late for me though. The cams going in this weekend. I believe my car has about 118k on it now.
oil pump drive stub  oil pump drive shaft  |
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Posted on: 2009/2/18 19:35
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95-Lt1-auto-Polo-Conv, 125hp ZEX N2O dry, LE Cam 226/234 565/565 109LSA, Comp Pro Mag 1.6rr, Patriot Xtreme Springs, PCMFORLESS, K&N, AO Ram Air, 52mm TB, EM LT Headers, X-pipe, Meziere HD EWP, Vigil 2800, TransGo Shift Kit, Pro-Built Trans, 24lb SVO'... |
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| Josh | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Rick-
You and I are on the same page as far as gear replacement goes. The oil pump drive uses a conventional roller cam distributor gear because the oil pump and cam blank are conventional pieces. Dan- I know that roller and flat tappet cams have different part numbers for the distributor gear. Whether or not they are interchangeable, I don't know. I would be tempted to pull out the distributor and at least inspect the gear in your situation. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/18 22:28
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"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail." - Jack Burton |
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Thanks!
Some more questions: [COLOR="Red"]Do I really have to wait 24 hours for the RTV to cure on the intake manifold or is there a quick drying RTV I can use?[/COLOR] I already have an electric water pump installed but I left the coupler and everything else on the block side. [COLOR="red"]How do I remove the coupler and whatever else is on the block side before and after removeing the timing cover?[/COLOR] [COLOR="red"]What else has to come off?[/COLOR] The picture below is how it looks now except that the EWP has been reinstalled in front of it. Someone told me what size freeze plug was needed for the hole in the timing cover and now I cant find it. [COLOR="red"]Does anyone know?[/COLOR] I'd rather do it that way than using a half dollar and JB weld. [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/EWPSwap_1.jpg[/IMG] |
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Posted on: 2009/2/18 22:53
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| biggrizzly | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Holy crap, your stuff was busted up pretty bad.
I thought you guys were saying that the gear was nylon, not the retainer on top. Sorry for the confusion. Quote:
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Posted on: 2009/2/18 23:46
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Don Haller Corvette Club of America 94Coupe, 383Stroka, PeteK Trans, 3000stall, 3.54rear, Konis and bigger sways. |
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| BrianCunningham | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Ouch, glad I found that out for my new shortblock, though I'm really going to try to get a drysump setup.
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Posted on: 2009/2/18 23:59
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Polo Green 95 LT1 6-spd http://mysite.verizon.net/vzevcp74/ 383 LT1/Vortech Supercharger/AFR heads/Rod end suspension/Penske-Hardbar dual rate coilovers/Wilwood 6pot brakes NCCC Governor: http://BayStateCorvetteClub.com |
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I remember reading that turning the crank while the timing chain is disconnected can damage the engine. How do I prevent it from turning while removing everything?
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Posted on: 2009/2/20 12:22
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95-Lt1-auto-Polo-Conv, 125hp ZEX N2O dry, LE Cam 226/234 565/565 109LSA, Comp Pro Mag 1.6rr, Patriot Xtreme Springs, PCMFORLESS, K&N, AO Ram Air, 52mm TB, EM LT Headers, X-pipe, Meziere HD EWP, Vigil 2800, TransGo Shift Kit, Pro-Built Trans, 24lb SVO'... |
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| vetteoz | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Before you take the chain off ,set just after TDC ,pull # 1 spark plug and jam 3 feet of 1/4 nylon rope in the cylinder then hand wind the crank back past TDC(anticlockwise)) until the piston locks up against the rope in the bore. Or undo all the rocker nuts so all the valves are closed Damage can arise if a piston comes up against open valves due to cam not being in sync with crank |
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Posted on: 2009/2/20 12:48
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Cool, I'm removing the roller rockers first so I should be good there then.
[COLOR="Red"]Do you just rely on the timing chain to hold the crank in place while removing the balancer and hub?[/COLOR] I guess I was also wondering if it should be prevented from turning. I thought I saw someone chaining it to a side frame rail or something. I got all my parts in now. I should be starting this evening or tomorrow. I thought my valve spring kit was supposed to come with shims and instructions for installing. It just has the springs, seats, and retainers in the package. [COLOR="red"]Should I be concerned with spring height and shims?[/COLOR] [COLOR="red"]Is cleaning, soaking, or oiling of any parts required?(rockers, lifters, springs, etc.) [/COLOR]I've read many different opinions on that. Most say regular oil on cam journals and assembly lube on lobes. Any brand recomended? I also read dipping or soaking lifters after cleaning in some solution is common. I saw comp has a spray for the springs and rockers. I didnt see it at Autozone though. [COLOR="red"]Is there any sort of break in method needed?[/COLOR] I read keeping it abouve 2000rpms for the first few minutes. Someone said something about using dino oil for startup. [COLOR="red"]I thought that was only for a rebuild.?[/COLOR] While I'm thinking of it, whats the best grade mobile 1 to use at 114k miles? What size vacuum lines do I need for the opti? One of them is cut. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/20 15:13
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Does anyone have an easy way to get the hub off? The smaller three jaw puller wont fit in the space. I have a harbor freight puller kit with various bolt sizes but its too tight of a space to use the center bolt it came with the other three bolts are also the wrong size. I went to Lowes to get a few other sizes of bolts to try. We'll see how it goes tomorrow. Any other ideas?
Is the hub and timing gear keyed to only go on one way? __________________ [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Me_In_Car_3.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_5.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_7.jpg[/IMG] |
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Posted on: 2009/2/22 2:09
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95-Lt1-auto-Polo-Conv, 125hp ZEX N2O dry, LE Cam 226/234 565/565 109LSA, Comp Pro Mag 1.6rr, Patriot Xtreme Springs, PCMFORLESS, K&N, AO Ram Air, 52mm TB, EM LT Headers, X-pipe, Meziere HD EWP, Vigil 2800, TransGo Shift Kit, Pro-Built Trans, 24lb SVO'... |
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| Josh | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I don't know if you were ever able to set up the puller or not, but you have to install a longer crank bolt for the nose of the puller to push on. I'm pretty sure the crank bolt is SAE 7/16 fine thread, but check it before you cram another bolt in there. You'll need a bolt that is 1/2 inch longer, and one that is 3/4 of an inch longer.
The process is to install the 1/2 inch longer bolt until it bottoms out. Then, the puller should be able to pull the hub off 1/2 and inch. Disassemble your set up, pull out the 1/2 inch longer crank bolt, install the 3/4 longer crank bolt, reassemble the puller, then pull the hub off another 1/4 of an inch. At this point, the hub will probably fall off. If not, disassemble everything, take your crank bolt out, and dink with it. It should come off from here. If not, one more go round with a slightly longer bolt should do it. You should also mark the hub and crank so that they go back together clocked the same. I haven't found an definitive proof that this is necessary, but it can't hurt. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/22 18:46
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"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail." - Jack Burton |
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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This is exactly how I had to remove it. You must have done this before. lol What a PITA! I wish I would have caught your post about three hours earlier.  I would not have to have figured it out myself. It took about four different bolt sizes and adjustments. I broke the first puller and had to run to the auto store for a new one and some more bolt sizes and nuts. It took the whole day just to get the hub and timing cover off. I drained and ubolted just the first six bolts of the oil pan. I also had to remove the three bolts holding the power steering resovoir. It was enough to get the timing cover off. Tomorrow I will finnaly be ablt to pull the timing gears and chain and swap the cam. I'm going to first remove the intake and valve covers so I can remove the lifters, pushrods, and roller rockers. I set the circle on the crank timing gear at 12 o' clock and the cam timing gear is at 6 o' clock. I'm going to undo the 3 bolts on the cam gear and hopefully it will slide off easy. Then I can pull the old cam and install the new cam. Then I am going to slide my coyles gears and chain on in the same position. Circle of crank gear at 12 o' clock and circle of cam gear at 6 o clock. Does that sound correct? Whats the best method for getting the hub back on after the timing cover??Todays Pics... [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_11.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_13.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_14.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_15.jpg[/IMG] [IMG] http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_17.jpg[IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_20.jpg[/IMG] |
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 1:14
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| Stl94LT1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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The process is to install the 1/2 inch longer bolt until it bottoms out. Then, the puller should be able to pull the hub off 1/2 and inch. Disassemble your set up, pull out the 1/2 inch longer crank bolt, install the 3/4 longer crank bolt, reassemble the puller, then pull the hub off another 1/4 of an inch. At this point, the hub will probably fall off. If not, disassemble everything, take your crank bolt out, and dink with it. It should come off from here. If not, one more go round with a slightly longer bolt should do it. That's the method I use, and the reverse to reinstall. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 1:14
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I'm not understanding. How does it reinstall like this?? What does it hook to to pull it on? Thanks |
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 1:19
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95-Lt1-auto-Polo-Conv, 125hp ZEX N2O dry, LE Cam 226/234 565/565 109LSA, Comp Pro Mag 1.6rr, Patriot Xtreme Springs, PCMFORLESS, K&N, AO Ram Air, 52mm TB, EM LT Headers, X-pipe, Meziere HD EWP, Vigil 2800, TransGo Shift Kit, Pro-Built Trans, 24lb SVO'... |
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| Stl94LT1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I use the longer bolt and the hub's thick washer to get the hub started. Then use the shorter bolt and washer to snug it up. Lastly, install a new crank hub bolt and torque to spec.
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 1:26
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Ok, Think I get it. So you were able to find a longer bolt that fit the cranks threads. I ran to several different stores and could not find one with the correct threads. The bolts I were using to remove the hub never threaded. They just bottomed out at the end of the hole, but they worked for removal. Any idea where I can get the correct bolts and threads that will fit to use for reinstallation? They appear to be fine threads which are hard to find in these size bolts. Thanks |
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 1:29
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| Stl94LT1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I found mine at a local hardware store. Both grade 8, one stock length and the other about 1" longer.
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 1:32
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Thanks, I'll head out agian tomorrow to check a few other places. I also went to over 5 different auto stores not one had a micrometer for sale. I tried NAPA, Autozone, Advance, Pep Boys, Oreilly, Car Quest, etc.. DO I really need to check the spring heigth on the new springs? I've never installed valve train parts before either.
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 1:40
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| Stl94LT1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I still think you are going to have a hard time compressing your dual valve springs with that loaner tool. The picture you posted from "shoebox" site showed it working on a single spring with a flat inner dampner.
To really do the springs right, yes they need to be installed at a certain uniform height. Can you get by without doing this? I have a feeling many do. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 1:54
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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You may be right about the spring tool. It does look pretty cheap. I'll find out tomorrow for sure. I really need to get everything back together by Wednesday for work on Thursday. Maybe I can check the spring heights at a later date if I need to order a tool. I decided to skip droppping the whole oil pan for now. The next time I need an oil change I'll probably install the new gasket and oil pump drive shaft.
About the hub... How will I know when it's completely seated? |
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 2:03
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| Stl94LT1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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About the hub... How will I know when it's completely seated? You'll feel it bottom out. It should go back on fairly easy. |
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 2:07
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I think I'm ready now for another day of work. Thanks!!
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 3:08
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| Stl94LT1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Another thing I like to do after installing the balancer/dampner is to mark TDC with a paint pen. Mark the outside where it can easily been seen for future references. You never know when you'll need to do a spring swap or rocker adjustment.
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 3:58
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| Josh | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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If you heat the hub up with a torch it will slide on easier. Or you can boil it/put it in the oven. Don't go too crazy hot or you can damage the seal in the timing cover, but 200-250 degrees makes the install much easier.
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Posted on: 2009/2/23 17:21
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"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail." - Jack Burton |
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Yesterday went pretty well. I pulled the timing gears and chain. I also removed the intake, rockers, pushrods, lifters, oil pump stub, and scraped the old gaskets off. I then pulled the old cam and installed the new one. Today I'm going to put the Cloyes gears and chain on, attempt to remove the old springs and instrall the new ones, and pull all the old plugs. Then I'll install the lifters and measure for pushrod length. I'll have to order pushrods overnight shipping after measuring so I think I'm going to get pushed back until the weekend for finishing this project. I have work Thursday and Friday so I may be renting or burrowing a car for a couple of days. Thanks again for everyones help.
Here are yesterdays pictures... [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_24.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_29.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_33.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_30.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Engine_31.jpg[/IMG] |
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Posted on: 2009/2/24 13:53
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Today I reinstalled the timing gears and chain. I heated the crank gear as recommended and then put the old gear and a 1.75" pipe coupler behind it. I then used a socket extension with a big socket that I was able to hammer with a small maul from in front the cross frame. So... Socket extension, big socket, flat piece of metal with handle, pipe coupler, and old gear all lined up seemed to work pretty well. :lol: I think a big socket with the right length extension would have probably worked great. Is the cam retaining plate screw supposed to be that close to my Cloyes timing gear? It spins but it's damn close. I opened up my old original opti today and I was surprised how well it help up for 118k miles and 13 years. I also pulled all the spark plugs and started to remove the first spring. That's when I found out you were correct. The overhead compressor does not work on dual valve springs.
At that point I drove about an hour away to pick up the correct spring compressor tool. They also had a micrometer and shims. There goes another $190. They only had the expensive $100 Morel compressor in stock. :crazy: At least I can now get the correct pushrods ordered tomorrow. That is once I figure out how to measure with the pushrod length checker I bought.? Anyone? Also how do I use the micrometer? It looks like I have to put both ends where the spring goes then unscrew until the keepers lock in on the valve. Does that sound correct? I bought various size screws as recommended to reinstall the hub but how do I keep the crank from spinnig while tightening? I used an iron brick underneath the hub when removing to keep it from spinning. I really dont want to take anything else apart. Thanks Todays pictures... [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Cloyes_Timing_Chain_1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Cloyes_Timing_Chain_2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Original_Opti_3.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Original_Opti_2.jpg[/IMG] |
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Posted on: 2009/2/25 2:27
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Yesterday went pretty well. I checked the spring height with my micrometer and everything was ok there. I then Installed all my new studs and springs. I also checked for pushrod length. Maybe someone can verify I did it correctly...
I set my pushrod length checker at the stock height of 7.200" and installed it with the roller rocker and weaker spring from Ace hardare. I could only install one side of the retainer to fit the checker in there. [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Checking_Pushrod_Length_1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Checking_Pushrod_Length_2.jpg[/IMG] I marked the top of the valve stem with a green highlighter. I then placed the rocker arm on the stud. I twisted the pushrod checker in my fingers while tightening down the rocker arm bolt. When the pushrod checker was no longer able to move I tightened the nut an additional half turn then tightened down the retainer. [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Checking_Pushrod_Length_3.jpg[/IMG] I then turned the crank over by hand about four times while watching the timing mark. [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Cloyes_Timing_Chain_2.jpg[/IMG] I then removed the rocker arm to see where the wear pattern was on the valve stem. It was more toward the exhaust side indicating that the pushrod length was too long. I kept shortening the pushrod length checker and repeating the process until the wear patter was in the middle. This was what the wear looked like the last time I did it. I'm bringing the pushrod checker to a local machine shop today to get it measured with a digital caliper. Most auto stores I tried did not have one long enough. I'll let you know what lenght it is. [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Checking_Pushrod_Length_5.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Checking_Pushrod_Length_6.jpg[/IMG] I'm now back at work for the next two days so I wont be able to get back at it until Saturday. Thanks |
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Posted on: 2009/2/26 18:34
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I measured the pushrod checker with a digital caliper at a local engine shop. It was 7.132 inches. I ordered the trickflow pushrods in 7.150 length overnight shipping. That was the closest in size I could find. I could either go down to 7.100 or up to 7.150 inches.
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Posted on: 2009/2/26 22:04
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I tried installing my lifters, pushrods, and roller rockers and adjusting for zero lash. I first brought cylinder 1 to TDC and started adjusting. I discovered that one of the rr nuts would not turn a half past once the pushrod stopped spinning. The plunger/bowl appears to be stuck on several of the lifters. How do I unstick a stuck lifter. I need to get this done this weekend. Please help.
Thanks |
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Posted on: 2009/2/28 1:07
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Someone told me to remove the lifter retainer clip and see if I can free the insides of the lifter. I may try that.
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Posted on: 2009/2/28 11:54
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95-Lt1-auto-Polo-Conv, 125hp ZEX N2O dry, LE Cam 226/234 565/565 109LSA, Comp Pro Mag 1.6rr, Patriot Xtreme Springs, PCMFORLESS, K&N, AO Ram Air, 52mm TB, EM LT Headers, X-pipe, Meziere HD EWP, Vigil 2800, TransGo Shift Kit, Pro-Built Trans, 24lb SVO'... |
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Lifter problem solved.
Yesterdays pics... [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/rockers_installed_1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/rockers_installed_3.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/rockers_installed_4.jpg[/IMG] |
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Posted on: 2009/3/1 14:10
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95-Lt1-auto-Polo-Conv, 125hp ZEX N2O dry, LE Cam 226/234 565/565 109LSA, Comp Pro Mag 1.6rr, Patriot Xtreme Springs, PCMFORLESS, K&N, AO Ram Air, 52mm TB, EM LT Headers, X-pipe, Meziere HD EWP, Vigil 2800, TransGo Shift Kit, Pro-Built Trans, 24lb SVO'... |
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I believe I was over thinking things with the lifters. I went back and installed them 1/2 past with no issues.
Update: I'm still not finished the install. Saturday was mostly wasted running around looking at lifters. Sunday I get done with the valve train, shaved the drip tabs, reinstalled the intake, and gapped and installed the new spark plugs. I started on the timing cover but there was still a lot of gasket I had to scrape off. I sat thinking for a while about how everything in the front was going to go back together. I figured to do this right I needed to stop the crank from spinning. I got under the car and pulled the flexplate cover. I couldnt easily see how to get a screwdriver in there and stop it from turning. So then I started to pull the oil pan. I then realized I had to remove the filter and adapter to get to that one bolt. After that I realized I also needed to pull the starter. That was another couple hours wasted on the bottom end. It was getting dark so I had to cover everything up and call it a day. Laying on the ground under the car in 30 degree weather is not a good idea. Not to mention I got a face full of oil when I was pulling the filter. I used the old stick it with a screw driver method. Not a good idea! I am now sick from the weather. I hope I'm better by Friday to finish up. Here's the plan. Please correct me if you see something wrong. Finish removing the starter and oil pan. Turn the crank a few times to check for clearance on the timing cover and new chain. Find TDC on cylinder one. (Crank at 12 o clock and cam at 12 o clock) Jam a screw driver in the flexplate to keep the crank from turning. Reinstall timing cover with gasket and bolt down. Install new optispark, lining up the pin slot hole to the cam sprocket pin at 3 o clock. Heat hub in oven at 250 degrees. Install hub using various size crank screws to tighten down. Line up hub arrow to 12 o clock position. Reinstall oil pan with new gasket. Reinstall filter adapter, new filter, and starter. Reinstall balancer lining the mark up at 12 o clock with the arrow on the hub. (Mark with bright orange paint) Reinstall EWP with new gaskets. Reinstall radiator, fans, shroud, etc. Reinstall fuel injectors. Connect all wires, fuel lines, and hoses. Pull fuel injector fuse and turn over a few times to oil engine. Start car for first time. Hows that sound? |
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Posted on: 2009/3/2 20:35
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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It looks like this project is on hold for a little bit. I had to run to the ER room yesterday for 105 fever and dehydration. They gave me some fluids and antibiotics so I'm starting to do much better now. Thats what I get for working on the car in 30 deg weather. The things we do for our corvettes.
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Posted on: 2009/3/6 14:42
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| rickreeves1 | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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I forgot to prelube the engine before putting the intake manifold back on. Now I have to use an alternative method for pre lubing. I really did put a generous amount of lube on the cam. Someone suggested I prefill the oil filter. They also said I should put some engine assembly lube in the oil pump before I put it back together. Then when starting the car I should turn it over for 20 seconds at a time with the coil unplugged from the battery. They said after two times I should have oil pressure. I am also going to soak the valve train with a quart or two before putting the covers back on.
Todays Update: I had to shave a ton of metal off the timing cover. I fitted it first without the gasket. I hand tightened all the cover bolts and turned the crank to check for clearance. Each time the chain scraped I had to pull the cover off and shave some more. I had to do this at least 20 or 30 times. I didnt want to cut too much off at once. Even though I was carefull I still went through a little bit in one spot. It's behind the seal so I don't think it will hurt anything. I'm also going to reuse the stock balancer. Dad clearancing the cover. [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/timing_cover.jpg[/IMG] Here you can see where we went too thin. [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/timing_cover_2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/timing_cover_5.jpg[/IMG] 118k mile botom end. [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/bottomend_1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/bottomend_2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/bottomend_3.jpg[/IMG] Here's how I kept the flexplate from turning. [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/clamp_flexplate.jpg[/IMG] Crank hub and new opti back in. [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/hub_opti_1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/hub_opti_2.jpg[/IMG] |
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Posted on: 2009/3/14 22:36
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| Jeffvette | Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? | ||
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Rick, I haven't been following up on your thread, but looks like everything is going good.
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Posted on: 2009/3/14 22:45
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